Introduction: Couch Arm Table
Couch arm table w/ shelf
Supplies
(3 or 4) 1in x 12in x 4ft board *hardwood or softwood of your choosing...I used Pine to save on cost
Wood screws *optional dowels and/or brad nails
Wood glue
Wood filler *wood putty does not stain very well, but can use putty, filler, or spackle with paint
Kreg tool - Pocket Hole Jig
Router tool *not necessary, but makes project look more professional and clean
Stain or Paint *wood conditioner/pre-stain, optional
Polyurethane *Pictured without a top coat, but I plan to coat with a Satin poly
Table saw or Circular saw
Hand sander *I used 180 and 320 grit
T-square or Level
Clamps
Pencil
Measuring Tape
Screw driver and bits
Step 1: Project Note
NOTE: I made these tables by repurposing a C-table end table that I had made years prior (pictured). I used the wood from that project, plus a small cut of 1/2in plywood (which I had on hand already).
For a cleaner and more professional look, you may want to use the same size/type of wood for the entire project. Personally, I preferred using the thinner 1/2 in plywood piece for the inside of the couch. It's isn't as bulky and takes up less sitting space. Although, it would look better having used a 1/2 in thick pine board (however, not easily found or resawed). I also made some mistakes when routing that I did not account for, so the joint does not butt up as squarely as I had hoped.
I sanded off the previous (very very dark) stain that I had used, so you can still see that dark tone underneath the new lighter stain. I had to disc sand to get the previous stain off, then used a hand sander for a more polished look.
I made 2 tables from this repurposed project. This took a half-day and I used a circular saw instead of a table saw. Table saw would have been quicker and more precise, but I knew I could do just as good of a job with a circular saw and a straight edge. A circular saw was more accessible to me, at the time. My measurements did not need to be very exact, just duplicated.
Step 2: Cut Wood
**KEEP IN MIND pre-cut wood measurements are never as advertised, they are always 1/4-1/2 inch smaller
This will depend on the size of your couch arm and the exact style you want. My measurements are listed below for reference:
Couch arm width: 10 inches
- 13-1/2 (L) x 11-1/4 (W) A - top
- 11 (L) x 11-1/4 (W) B - outside arm
- 2 (L) x 11-1/4 (W) C - shelf base
- 4-1/2 (L) x 11-1/4 (W) D - shelf lip
- 6 (L) x 11-1/4 E - inside arm (this I used with 1/2 in plywood)
Step 3: Assembly
I attached the wood using pocket holes joints and butt joints. If I were to do this again, I would maybe use dowels, mitre joint, or perhaps brad nails for some joints. I really wanted this piece to be strong, so I opted for screws and filled the holes. Trying to pocket hole a 1/2 in board usually doesn't work...if you had a thicker piece, it should.
OPTIONAL
- Router A on 3 edges, TOP side only
- Router D on top edge, both sides
- Router E on all 4 edges, BACK side only
ASSEMBLY
- Sand all pieces
- Use Kreg tool to make evenly spaced pocket holes on piece B
- Screw in B to A, 10 inches from the edge of A (couch arm width)
- Butt up C to the bottom of B and screw in from the inside of B (unseen side, against the couch)
- Butt up D to C and screw in evenly spaced (optional: wood glue & dowel joints OR brad nails)
- Attach E to edge of A and screw in evenly spaced (optional: wood glue & dowel joints OR brad nails)
- Stain, poly, or paint
TIPS
- Fill in any holes with wood filler (staining) or wood putty/spackle (painting)
- Use wood glue where appropriate
- Sand thoroughly
- Wood conditioner before stain helps the stain go on more evenly...BUT it will give your piece a yellow undertone...I almost never use it)