Introduction: Creative Robotix - Educational Platform - TimEE

About: The Creative Science Foundation (CSf) is a nonprofit organization, dedicated to the exploration and promotion of creative methods for supporting science, engineering, business and sociopolitical innovation thr…

This instructable builds an alternative skin for our Creative Robotix Educational Platform. First, construct the platform to step 23, then resume the build from the next step. The design for TimEE was inspired using a creative method called micro-Science Fiction Prototypes, a creative method based on the ideas of Science Fiction Prototyping. If you would like to see how we created the idea of TimEE and try this method yourself to inspire your own creations head on over to see our other instructable Creative Robotix - Science Fiction Prototyping - TimEE instructable.

Step 1: Print the TimEE Design Files...

Download the design files and print them. We have tested these files on an UP BOX, printing in PLA. If you don't have access to a 3D printer then you might like to try the following online service 3D Hubs.

Tips that worked for us:

  • We have tried printing the 'TimEE - front' in several orientations, the one that seems to work the best is printing upside-down upright. This will minimise support material and give a smoother finish.
  • Printing the 'TimEE - head' face up works well.

Step 2: Mount the Ultrasound Sensor and Front Body...

  • There are a few types of Ultrasound Sensor board, with different mounting hole sizes. If you find that the 6mm washer head screws do not fit, then use four spots of super glue at each corner and secure in place. Here we have used super glue. Alternatively, source a fitting set of screws.
  • Connect the sensor wiring according to the pin mapping in the previous step.
  • Press fit the front onto the main body. The fit should be very snug, so press firmly until the front clicks into place.

Step 3: Assemble the Arms...

Thumbs Up! Using two of the long servo arm mounts from the Tower Pro secure them to the upper arms with two 6mm self-tapping screws, trim, then assemble arms as shown with two further 6mm self-tapping screws at the elbows.

Step 4: Assemble the Head Mount Bracket...

Mount the remaining long servo arm to the head mount bracket using two of the small 4mm servo screws.

Step 5: Fix the Eyes and Mouth...

Using the long nosed pliers, fit the 5mm LED plastic mounts into each eye socket and mouth, they should push through so that the rear clasps protrude through into the rear of the head cavity as shown. Wrap the leg of one 220 ohm resistor around the middle leg of each LED. Fitting the LED's is best accomplished by using the long nosed pliers again, this time to hold the plastic mounts in place while pushing through the LED from the rear, you should notice a firm solid 'click through' when they are correctly mounted. Ensure that both LED's are fitted with the same vertical orientation to their legs. Here the short outer legs were top most.

Tips that worked for us:

  • If the LED clasps are a little tight, or do not allow the LED eyes to be easily pushed through, then you may widen the eyes at the rear by gently removing some of the plastic with the Philips head screw driver which is larger then the rear eye holes.

Step 6: Connect the Common Cathode LED Pins Together...

Twist the other ends of the three 220 ohm resister legs together. Trim the excess back, enough for one female jumper cable to be fitted.

Step 7: Wire-up the Facial Features...

Strip off a a group of 7 patch wires from the main patch cable set. Take two and cut in half, bare the core at the ends and twist together. Take a further two wires, and remove the female connectors right at the very end. Bare the core and connect one to each of the twisted pair. Use the isolation tape to secure the connections. Connect the wires, one pair to form common green, one pair to form common red, and one wire to the combined resistors to form common ground.

Tips that worked for us:

  • If you find the female connectors are not tight and easily 'fall-off' then use the long nosed pliers to pitch the tip of the LED legs into an angle, this should held secure the connectors. The cable tie in the next step will also help.

Step 8: Fix the Head Mounting Bracket...

Use the cable tie to secure the eye and mouth LED wires, ensure maximum and equal length as possible.

Step 9: Fix the Speaker to the Right Side of the Head...

The speaker we illustrate here required soldering. Some speakers will have 'ear tags' or 'tags with holes', if either is the case then simply wrap the bare wire core securely around the tags. Alternatively, you can buy speakers with wires already attached.

Step 10: Attach the Head and Wire Up the Eyes, Mouth and Speaker...

Ensure that the servo motor spindle is centred before attaching the head, follow the pin map to connect the speaker and LED's.

Tips that worked for us:

  • We used a spare servo arm to place on the spindle, gently turning to each extreme to gauge and set the center point. It doesn't need to be precise as you can set of offset in the driver software to tune the center position.

Step 11: Attach the Arms...

Role the servo spindle backwards until it reaches its end-stop, then attach the arms using two 4mm screws. A magnetic screwdriver head will make it easier to guide the screws down the arm spindle.

Tips that worked for us:

  • We generally fix the arms so they are raised vertically upwards in the 'up' extreme.

Step 12: Build Done!

Now return to step 30 of the Creative Robotix Educational Platform instructable.

Robotics Contest 2017

Participated in the
Robotics Contest 2017

Microcontroller Contest 2017

Participated in the
Microcontroller Contest 2017

Design Now: In Motion Contest

Participated in the
Design Now: In Motion Contest