D20 Dicebox

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Introduction: D20 Dicebox

About: Welcome to my profile! I'm Sophia, a 25yo mechanical engineer working in material science. I play a lot of tabletop games (mostly DnD 5e) and in my free time I love crafting stuff for that - using the laser cu…

I love playing DnD. And I love collecting dice. But what I love the most is making dice boxes!

This one is my first try at CNC milling a box and I'm super happy with the outcome. Since people asked me to share it, I created this instructable. You'll find:

  • a rough step by step tutorial
  • tricks and Troubleshooting

And If you don't want to CNC it, you can always print the files :)

Supplies

  • 18 mm wood, 2 pieces of approx. 120 mm x 180 mm (I like to use acacia since it's soft and has a nice color)
  • A CNC machine (I'm using a Snapmaker 2.0 A250) with the following bits:
    • 3.175 flatend
    • v-bit or ballnose
  • 4 10mm x 3mm magnets
  • some oil, I used linseed oil
  • approx. 6h of (machining) time :)

Step 1: Setting Up the G Code

First you need to set up your files for the CNC machine. Most CNC machines work with a G code so you'll need that.

The G code can be processed from any 3D file using the manufacturing tool of Fusion 360.
I attached my files for you to use plus some documentary pictures. Since I'm using a Snapmaker A250, I needed a .cnc file (but no worries, Fusion can post process a lot of different types.)

If you don't want to post process the G code plus have a machine that uses .cnc, I attached my G-code. Please note the different origins though! They are IMPORTANT :)

Step 2: Preparing the Steps

First: define the setup = the orgin of the gcode. Fusion allows several options to chose it. Make sure the origin is on the surface of the part you want to mill. Then procede to the different steps.

Chose the steps you want ( like adaptive etc) and the tool you want to use.

TIP: Fusion doesn't like v-bits. Modify a chamfer mill as a tool with your v-bits measurements.

In the following I will explain what I used:

-----------

The bottom part (pic. 1) is easy, since there is no super precision needed.

My chosen origin, as defined in the setup, is the bottom left corner.

Milling everything using a flat end mill works pretty well. I used a 3.175mm flat end single flute with a spindle speed of 12000rpm and a cutting feed rate of 650 mm/min.

Adaptive: https://www.dropbox.com/s/d5vw3o8u47ixk5r/dicebox_...

Contour: https://www.dropbox.com/s/f3fvbe09wo2gqjh/dicebox_...

---------

For the top part (pic. 2, pic. 3) you'll need to mill from both sides, so you need to use more steps. Also: two setups. Since it's important for the pieces to fit, I set the origins for the different steps in the middle of the file.

First step (first setup) is the inside with a 3.175mm flatend (Adaptive).

Adaptive: https://www.dropbox.com/s/wcp0f39zlekip5m/Dicebox_...

Then after flipping the wood, use the second setup, with a rough pass with the 3.175 mm flatend (Adaptive) and finer lines with the v-bit (Parallell).

Adaptive: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4bowhej8ci6q4q2/Dicebox...

Parallel: https://www.dropbox.com/s/rae17f4yeaozixi/dicebox_...

TIP: For the first adaptive make sure to leave stock material (pic. 4), since the v-bit will take that away. Check the box.
For the parallel step afterwards chose rest-machining (pic. 5).

(Since my settings for the v-bit weren't fine enough, I had to do some sanding afterwards. So I consider using a ballnose the next time).

The last step is the contour (2D Contour), once again with the 3.175mm flatend.

Contour: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vhvbnxtr167c29p/Dicebox...

Step 3: Postprocess the G Code

To set up your file for the CNC you'll need to use the postprocess tool in Fusion.
Right click on the step to post process it (pic. 1), chose the correct G code type for your machine.

Export/post process all those steps and name them! (tool name, step nr etc)

Or download them from the previous step :)

Step 4: CNC

After preparing all the files this step is pretty self-explanationary:

  • Fix the material
  • Start the steps in their defined order, change the bits if neccessary

TIP: chose a place on the material outside the part that will be milled, to level your z-axis. Since the bits aren't the same lenght you'll need to level the z-axis after every tool change. Which is pretty hard, if there are already parts of the material missing :)

Step 5: Sanding and Oiling

Sand your box using different grit sanding paper. This might take some time :)

Afterwards use the oil of you choice, I'm using linseed oil, to bring back the SHINE!

TIP: If you can still see scratches in the surface but can't feel them, wipe down the wood with a wet papertowel, wait a few minutes for the surface to dry and sand again using the finest grit :)

After that glue in the magnets!

AND YOU'RE FINISHED!

Hope you enjoyed this small tutorial :)

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    11 Comments

    0
    kairedfern
    kairedfern

    Question 11 months ago

    How might I go about importing this to inventables easel for use on an X-carve? I can import g-code, but can't find any actual g-code files within the tutorial.

    0
    heyimamaker
    heyimamaker

    1 year ago

    I love the way this turned out, nice work!

    0
    Kink Jarfold
    Kink Jarfold

    1 year ago on Step 5

    This really drew me in. But at my age, I'm not even going to try this. Like they say: You can't teach an old dog.... My boys play a lot of those online games. They too are beyond what I what to devote my time to. You might like the cabinet I built for my oldest son who plays Magic the Gathering. https://www.instructables.com/id/MAGIC-THE-GATHERING-CARD-CASE/
    And truth be told, both my sons are older than you. You did a super Instructable.

    KARL LIVE LONG AND PROSPER.jpg
    0
    ch4tterb0x
    ch4tterb0x

    Reply 1 year ago

    Thank you for the nice words! I always think it's fun ti try something new, this was my second attempt at CNC ing ever :)
    Your cabinet looks amazing and like a great gift :D

    0
    JohnW539
    JohnW539

    1 year ago

    Really nice project. I really like your geometry lid design. I’ve been playing with some epoxy inlay with some nice results as well. I probably will post the project soon.

    0
    ch4tterb0x
    ch4tterb0x

    Reply 1 year ago

    Thank you! I look forward to your project :)

    0
    AnandM54
    AnandM54

    1 year ago

    Amazing idea friend!! Superb!!

    0
    ch4tterb0x
    ch4tterb0x

    Reply 1 year ago

    Thank you :D

    great design
    Respect for using a snapmaker for milling.
    Great output for such a small machine.

    0
    ch4tterb0x
    ch4tterb0x

    Reply 1 year ago

    Thank you :)
    The A250 is a bit bigger than the original, but it still is ...really...slow 8D But for a hobby machine it's great :D