Introduction: DIY - Rubik's Cube - Blind Man's Cube - Metal Rubiks Cube

This is a Rubik's cube the is shape-oriented rather than color oriented for solving in the dark or for those who are without sight. It is inspired of the now unavailable "Blind Man's Cube" that was made years ago by Politechinka. See:

This cube brings a unique characteristic to solving a Rubik's cube that no other cube does... the ability to say "I solved it without even looking at it once."

Rather than building hand-eye coordination, it builds hand-mind coordination.

I find that solving this cube is a challenge above and beyond a normal rubik's cube. It takes me significantly longer to solve than a normal cube. But as a result my speedcubing times on regular cubes have dropped exponentially. Because it uses areas of my brain a normal cube do not (memory/perspective... seeing it in touch and shapes rather than eyesight and color).

It is also a bit heavier than a normal rubik's cube... helping me build muscle/speed for my speedcubing (speedcube is where you try to solve it as fast as possible.)

Step 1: What You Need

To make this cube you will need the following:

-A Rubiks's Cube (authentic or fake)
-54 Uniquely Shaped Metal or Plastic Tabs (more on this in how-to)
-A Razor Blade of your choice (careful!)
-2 Part Epoxy for use with plastic/metals
-Toothpicks or like for mixing/applying epoxy
-Duct Tape
-Isopropyl Alcohol
-Paper Towel(s)

Step 2: Obtain Rubik's Cube

First of all any rubik's cube will work. It is estimated that over 300 million authentic or knock-off Rubik's Cubes exist. This should cost (at time of typing this) around $10 for a new authentic Rubik's cube. However there are a TON of them on E-Bay for much cheaper.

Step 3: Obtain 54 Round or Raised Square Metal Tabs of 6 Different Raised Shape Designs

You are kinda on your own for this one, I pried mine off of an old chair in my garage and filed the backs off with a dremel. If using an authentic sized rubik's cube, these will need to be smaller than 5/8th's of an inch square, and preferably no deeper than 1/16th of an inch (or the cube will become noticably cumbersome in size). If you can only find 5 shapes... don't fret... remember that a single side missing shapes is still an identifyer (provided all other sides have identifyers). Other options (not as cool looking in my opinion) are sandpaper, wood, cardboard, plastic, etc. Scrapbook or craft stores might be a good place to shop for something like this.

WARNING 1: The Designs must FEEL different from each other. Each shape needs to have a distinguishing characteristic to differentiate it by touch rather than sight. THIS IS IMPERATIVE.

WARNING 2: It is best to ensure that each of the 6 shapes is quadratically symetric* in design (i.e. turning the shape 90 degrees yeilds same design as before turned). This ensures that after mixing and solving... the cube looks complete (note that one of my shapes does not follow this rule).

Many who are new to Rubik's cubes are unaware of the fact that if you were to draw arrows on each square of the cube when you buy it, solving it to perfection is not as easy as some pieces will not be soundly placed (arrows in all same directions). See picture for understanding... you see the colors are all in place... but the cube is not truly solved. Unless you know how to solve a cube like this... you will want to ensure the designs on the tabs are symetric as I mentioned.

  • - I am not sure if this is even a word, it just made sense in my juvenile vocabulary.

Step 4: Peel Stickers Off Cube

I used my fingernail to remove, and then used isopropyl alcohol to deal with left-over adhesive. Also... the stickers are a TWO-PART sticker in that the color is covered by a second sticker of Clear-coat (this may not be the case in non-authentic or legacy Rubik's cubes). So make sure you get both.

Step 5: Etch the Cube in Prep for Epoxy

Using your choice of a razor blade (careful!!!) etch the center of plastic squares with 8-way cross-hatch so that Epoxy will hold better to the etch than just the smooth plastic (this may not be necessary if the glue you use bonds to the plastic).

Step 6: Etch Back of Metal Tabs/pieces

Like you did with the center if the Rubik's cube centers... Using your choice of a razor blade (Serious... BE CAREFUL!!!) etch the backs of the metal tabs with a 8-way cross-hatch. To do this safely I layed a piece of duct-tape upside down and used two pieces of right-side -up duct tape, and laid the tabs down accordingly, then etched the back with a box-cutter knife with a new blade.

Step 7: Clean Cube and Tabs With Alcohol

Clean backs of tabs and surfaces with isopropyl (or your choice) of alcohol... this ensures the bond will not be effected by fingerprint oils and any other foreign materials.

WARNING: This will not harm an authentic Rubik's cube. If your cube is not authentic... it might be made from a form of Acrylic... if this is the case either SKIP THIS STEP, or use soap and water and let completly dry... as alcohol would melt/crack/damage your acrylic cube.

Step 8: Epoxy Pieces to Cube

Using a 2-part epoxy, bond each side of 9 shapes to the cube centers. Use as little as possible but ensure a complete bond.

NOTE: I would have used gorilla glue, but did not want to clamp these down (a necessary step requiring clamps I did not have). Also... Gorilla Glue (as awesome as it is, seriously that stuff HOLDS) expands 3 times and if not used carfully would look messy... because of this I used a Super-Glue based 2-part epoxy.

Step 9: You Are Done! Metal Rubik's Cube Complete.

Congrats! Contact me if you have any questions while building one.

Additional Note: I left the center piece (originally covered by white stickers) out that shows the engraved "Rubiks" logo. While solving I found it had a good impact in identifying that side and it looks cool (my opinion).