Introduction: DIY Bike Shed
Since I moved in the new house, I have been looking for a place where to store safely my motorcycle. One day, a while ago I came up with the idea to use a tiny lot (1 x 2.5 mt) that I have in front of my parking space.
So I went to the drawing board and start designing different solutions. I was looking for something compact, that would fit in my property, not too much striking (so that the neighbours won't complain about it), but big enough to accommodate my motorbike.
I came up with a shed, about W 2.4 mt x D 1.2 mt x H 1.5 mt, with three fixed sides, two hinged doors and a roof that can be lifted, so that parking the motorbike will be easier.
- #4 - Wooden Fence Posts 75mm x 75mm x 1500mm natural
- #75 - Feather Edge Board 1.65m-Ex 125mm x 22mm
- #10 - Counter Rail 3.60m-50mm x 38mm
- #1 - OSB 3 Board - 11mm x 1220mm x 2440mm
- #4 - heavy duty tee hinges 400mm
- #2 - right angle hinges 150mm
- #2 - gas struts (200N each)
- #2 - bolt locks
- #4 - posts shoes
- 5sqm - roof felt
- various nails and screws
Step 1: Surface Preparation and Post Shoe Installation
I started by cleaning the area and levelling the ground. Then, I marked where I was going to place the 4 corner posts - the external distance between the post's shoe was 2.4 mt x 1.2 mt. I decided to fix two front posts directly on the per-existing concrete (more stable for holding the load of the two doors), and for the two at the back I poured concrete plinths (30 x 30 x 30 cm).
Step 2: Posts Preparation
Firstly, I cut the posts in pair. I placed each pair in parallel on the ground at 1200 mm (external distance). I marked 1500 mm on the front one and 1350 mm on the back post. Using a straight guide, mark a line projected between the two points, that will be the inclination of the roof. At this point I had to cut the posts following the line and repeat it for the other pair.
I wanted a neat design and a strong structure for the main frame, so I decided to use wood joints to slot in the horizontal rails.
Each side has three horizontal rails, one at the top, one at the middle and one just above the post shoe. That means that 18 slots were required in total (3 on the front posts, 3+3 on the back posts), to make a quicker but precise job I used the router with a profile cutter, and I created a cutting guide.
The slots were W 30 mm x H 50 mm x D 35 mm (as the section of the rails). The extra cut depth at the corners allows to insert the rails till the end of the slot.
Step 3: The Back Panel
Due to the limited space between the back of the shed and my neighbour's fence(about 250 mm), I decided that it was easier to install all the boards while the frame was dismantled.
To do that, I first put in place the back posts and I fixed the three rails connecting the two posts, and I installed a temporary diagonal rail to keep the frame in shape. Then, I removed the frame, laid it on the ground and started to nail in place all the boards, making sure that they were aligned at the bottom. Once completed, I cut the excess of the boards at the top.
At this point, the back panel was ready to be put back in place and the diagonal rail could be removed.
Step 4: Time for the Sides
Luckily, I was able to board the two sides in place.
I installed the two front posts, cut the required six lengths of rails (remember that the top one is longer), and I fixed those in place with two screws for each joint. At this point, I nailed in place all the boards, making sure that they were aligned at the bottom. Again, once completed, I cut with a hand saw the excess of the boards by using the top rail as a guide.
Step 5: The Front Doors
For the two doors I made two rectangular frames, H 1300 mm x W 1120 mm, with the rail timber. For the corners I used a simple half-lap joint and two screws.
To provide enough surface for the hinges, I cut four lengths of 350 mm and fixed two on each frame on the side of the pivoting point. Additionally, I cut and installed a diagonal rail to improve the strength of the frame.
I installed the two hinges on each door, making sure I had two symmetrical frames. I did that at this point, so that the hinges would be covered by the boards.
At this point, I was ready to board the frames and cut the excess. Once completed, I installed the doors on the post, making sure they were aligned with the top of the posts.
Step 6: The Roof
The roof has a simple design, mainly because the dimensions of the structure are based on the size of a standard OSB 3 Board.
I created a rectangular frame with the 50 x 35 mm rails, with slightly smaller dimension of the interior of the shed, so that it can sit in between the posts. Approximately 2340 mm x 1120 mm, with a central reinforcement.
At this point, I fixed the OSB board on top of the frame, central in the width and at 25 mm from the front.
I also extended the roof on the front side with a spare Feather Edge Board so that it will cove the doors.
I fixed externally the two right angle hinges on the back posts on each corner, underneath the Feather Edge Boards. Then, I placed the roof on top of the structure and from the inside I fixed the OSB board to the hinges.
I installed the gas struts, and to define the correct position of each actuator I used a free online calculator.
Finally, it was time to place the roof felt.
Step 7: Final Touch
To avoid having to lift the roof by hand, I shaped two Z brackets and installed them on the front rail of the roof. They are located on each side so that, when the doors are closed, they will catch on the long screws of the hinges.
I also added on each front post a short length of rail where the roof can rest while closed.
And finally, the locking bolts. One has been installed internally on the left door, in vertical position catching on a hole in the ground. The second one, has been installed on the front of the doors. To increase the strength, I reinforced the doors with two boards on the inside at the same height of the locking bolt.
Participated in the