DIY DRILL BIKE

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Intro: DIY DRILL BIKE

This is a drill bike. It is very simple and easy to make. Anybody can do it. It can get you places without even pedaling. It isn't loud and it can go pretty fast. This is how you can make it.

STEP 1: Tools

These are the tools you will need. Make sure the drill bits are the right size for the bike and nails you have. You can find these items at a near tool shop. You will need to have a hammer, nails, drill, drill bits, washers, rubber hammer, screw driver, knife just incase if you need to cut wire, pencil, and pliers. You will need these items to build this project.

STEP 2: Drill Holder

You will need two pieces of wood to have a stable place for your drill to fit. The size of the wood will determine the size of the bike and drill. You can see in the picture you will need to drill one hole into the longer piece of wood. The hole will go through the nail. The nail will go through where the kick stand will be. If the kick stand is there just simply remove it. Put the nail in its spot and put the piece of wood through it. Make it stay with a nut and washer. Make it tight with a wrench. The other square flat piece of wood put 1-3 holes into the right bottom corner for it to attach to the longer piece of wood. Drill 1-3 nails through the holes so it is stable.

STEP 3: Remove Pedal Leg

For this step depending on the type of bike you have remove the pedal with the necessary tool. In this case for this bike you might have to go to a local bike shop to get it removed like me.

STEP 4: Brake Wire

For this step detach the back brake from the back of the bike. You do not need a tool for this. You can use your hands or pliers to take it off. Once you have it off measure how much wire you need for the drill to have enough tension so if you press the brake it will go. You connect the wire to the long piece of wood with nails and washers. The the washers in the nail and drill the nails in. You can use 1-4 nails and washers.

STEP 5: Drill Placement

Put the drill onto the piece of wood so the wire is wrapping around the trigger of the drill. You can put tape around the drill and wood to make it more steady. Get the right drill bit size and connect the drill to where the pedal used to be.

26 Comments

How do i stop my drill from untighten on my bike
This is a very poor design, poorly executed and without reasonable analysis of cause and effect, with far too many tradeoffs as far as robustness of the system, compromises to the basic bike and safety.

How far does it go on one charge?

Edit: having read it again I've realised that it's a joke; as soon as you turn the drill on it's just going to rip the duct tape and spin while the bike stays still. I just don't believe it will go at all, so the concerns about losing the back brake are irrelevant.

Hope this doesn't contravene the 'be nice' policy, not very positive is it.

It's interesting, although it looks a bit strange :)
Perhaps the next step is to drive bike through a gear.
You can help drill with your feet they

I've wanted to do something like this myself, but I didn't want to remove the pedal in case the battery died. I would be forced to walk the bike home and I might be miles away. Keeping a spare charged battery could prevent this though. I'm thinking of trying to add a drill with a small rubber wheel onto a bike rack that sits over the back tire. I'm guessing a smaller wheel riding on the back tire wouldn't require as much torque as hooking directly to the pedal.

I would have thought the opposite, running a small wheel against the big one creates a fixed speed ratio, this added with the lateral force required to maintain a friction drive would drain the drill battery fairly fast. Running the drill through the drive train would allow gearing and so improve battery life. I would be inclined to add a gear higher up the frame attached to the front gears and attach the drill here maintaining the pedals in place. I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure if you left the dill attached and not running when you were cycling that the drill motor would act as a generator and work to charge the battery. If the gearing was right this would not add a lot of load to your cycle.

This is a horrible hack. The bike is now twice as wide, half of the drill's ventilation holes are covered, which can very likely burn the motor, you lose the ability to pedal when that NiCd battery quickly runs out of juice, not to mention that relying solely on the front brake in wet, sandy or gravel roads greatly increases the chances of skidding the front tyre, making you lose control and fall. Emergency braking on clean asphalt like this greatly increases the chances of propelling the rider over the handlebars.

You could "buy" a longer cable for the throttle and attach to front brake instead, And just keep the rear brake.

Now seeing that this thing only goes 7MPH, The risks are much lower. I usually ride to work everyday at speeds around 20 MPH. I'll usually do a 25MPH sprint once per commute. This is why it's horrifying to me! I have fallen, and learned from those mistakes. Even though I was harsh, the risks I mentionned are still present, and you really should open up those vent holes.

good work. nice use of your available materials. I can see you will go on to create even better projects. well done

You learn by your mistakes though. Then you get smart.

It can go about 7 mph for me but it depends on the weight of the person and the type of drill.

I apologize for being straight out mean, but that's pretty slow. I can do easily twice that speed without breaking a sweat. Triple that and I'm doing a fun workout on my daily commute.

Saying that it's "pretty fast" is a bit misleading, and that's why everyone is asking how fast it goes, probably expecting to hear something like 20MPH!

I hope you realize, that even that DeWalt machines are heavy duty they aren't made for constant loads. So it will fail pretty soon. It is much better to use proper brushless motor and driver. If not at least made more ventilating holes in the machine and maybe put some fan on it.

Ok what I don't understand is the removal of the rear brake cable. I don't see anything saying it was replaced. This leaves you with only the front brake to slow or stop. And if there is gravel,sand or oil on the road you will be making use of your health insurance. Basically it's cumbersome and unsafe.

so much creativity to stick a drill into the whole. Must have taken a lot of work and time. You definetly did it all by yourself.

You might consider opening the vent holes that are covered with duct tape to extend the life of the drill.
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