Introduction: DIY Drill Press Table and Fence

About: Youtube Channel: Penalty Box Woodshop - Instagram: @penaltyboxwoodshop - Website: - Step by step woodworking and DIY projects. My goal is to give back to a community that has taught …

This easy to make Drill Press Table is the perfect one day shop project! The sliding dovetail system is easier to install than t-tracks and when paired with the MICROJIG accessories this table and fence system is everything that you need for your drill press stand.

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Cut List:

Everything is made from 3/4" plywood

2 - 24" x 12"

*On one section cut 3/8" deep dovetail groves at 2" and 5" off the front edge (long edge). Then cut dovetail groves at 5" off of each short edge. Optional: I cut a third vertical dovetail grove in the center of the board and stopped it at the middle point. This was for extra hold down options.

1 - 24" x 3" (Fence face) Cut a dovetail grove 1" from top edge

1 - 24" x 2 1/4" ( Fence bottom) Drill holes for dovetail hardware 5" from each edge

2 - 2 1/4" x 2 1/4" (supports)


List of all my tools that I use

Tools Used during this build:

Get a FREE MATCHFIT Relief Bit with a purchase of the MATCHFIT Dovetail Clamp Pro.

How to: Add both items to your cart and use the promo code "PENALTYBOX" at checkout

Nationwide Promo: Buy GR-100 and/or GR-200 and get a Free Gravity Heel Kit.

How to: Add both items to your cart and use promo code "GRRPROMO" at checkout.

MICROJIG Affiliate Link

Microjig Dovetail Pro Kit

Microjig Matchfit Dovetail Clamps

Microjig Grr-ripper

Microjig Pushblocks

Amana Tool Countersink Bit

Titebond Glue

Bosch Drill

Makita Router

Delta Table Saw

Biesemeyer Table Saw Fence

Delta Miter Saw

Woodpeckers Router Table

Canon T6i DSLR

Rode VideoMic Microphone

Canon EF 28-135mm f/3 Zoom Lens

Step 1: Cut Pieces for Table and Mark Lines for Dovetail Groves

To get started on this project I cut two pieces of 3/4” plywood 24" x 12" from some leftover pieces I had on my shop.

After cutting the plywood I began to lay out some lines to show where I wanted to route the dovetail groves for the clamping areas and fence. On one section marks lines at 2" and 5" off the front edge (long edge). Then mark lines at 5" off of each short edge. Optional: I marked a third vertical line in the center of the board and stopped it at the middle point. This was for a middle dovetail grove to provide extra hold down options.

Step 2: Microjig Hardware Used in This Project

Ill be using this Matchfit Dovetail Clamp Pro Kit from Microjig. The kit includes a variety of dovetail hardware, a set up gauge, a dovetail router bit and my favorite the dovetail clamps. I have become a huge fan of dovetail groves in place of metal t-track systems. They are easier to install and offer a lot more options as well as better clamping power.

Step 3: Route Dovetail Groves

Using the router bit and guide, that comes with the kit, I set up the router bit in my router table and began to route the dovetail groves, using my lines as a guide. If you dont have a router table you could easily use a hand held router and a straight edge to complete this step.

Step 4: Mark and Cut Out Area for Replaceable Backer Pieces

Using a 4" x 4" template a marked a square off center to the left and up. If you were to mark lines on the square dividing it into four equal parts, insure that the place were the drill bit will come down is only in one of these quadrants. This will be cut out for a replaceable sacrificial piece. It’s off center so that you can remove and turn the square for a fresh surface area four times before having to replace it.

Drill holes on the inside corners of your lines to help in cutting the square out with your jigsaw.

Step 5: Assemble Table Bottom

Laminate both bottom pieces together (dovetail groves on the outside of course) using wood glue and clamps. Once the glue is dry, remove the clamps, and trim the edges even.

Step 6: Finish Table Bottom and Add Hold Down Accessories

After the table top was laminated together and trimmed, I used a forstner bit to drill finger holes on all four courser of the center square. Then I cut a piece to fit the sacrificial square and inserted in its place. Notice the finger holes allow you to remove it and turn or replace.

Next, I countersunk some threaded hardware and hold downs that I had laying around. These work great to hold the table tightly to the drill press bed.

Step 7: Construct and Install the Fence

I cut one piece 24" x 3" (Fence face) and then cut a dovetail grove 1" from top edge. This will be used for a stop block and dovetail clamps if needed .

Then I cut the one piece 24" x 2 1/4" ( Fence bottom) and drilled holes for the dovetail hardware 5" from each edge. 2 - 2 1/4" x 2 1/4" (supports)

Step 8: Attach Your Fence and Stop Block

Once your fence is completed you can add a stop block for repeatable results. Again, all it takes is a simple hole for the dovetail hardware and the stop block is ready to go.

Step 9: Use Your New Drill Press Table and Fence

Utilizing a dovetail clamp, in the various dovetail groves, to hold down your work piece makes this process more repeatable and safer. This simple shop project can add a lot to any shop!

For more details you can watch the full build video here:

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