Introduction: DIY End Table
This table started with a load of cherry lumber sent to me by a local sawyer
After accessing the materials and some thought, i wanted to push my limits on design and came up with this modern looking end table. It incorporates mid century modern design elements along with a live edge top. Because it was done from a pile of random length, width and thickness materials, i didn't calculate the exact board feet of material required as I normally would, but this table doesn't require very much material to build.
I knew i wanted to make something with a floating top, so i banged out a design in Sketchup and started building. This is an original, one of a kind design by me
I hope you enjoy this project and if you would like to build the table yourself, and support Dimensions Wood Works, i have made detailed plans available on my website
You will need:
Lumber of your choice, for mine, i chose cherry
1 drawer slide
Wooden dowels and Doweling Jig
Step 1: Choose Your Live Edge Piece for the Table Top and Flatten
Find an appropriate slab that will work well for your table top. Cut a piece over sized for what you want the finished dimension to be and flatten the slab with a basic router flattening jig. Set slab top aside to allow any movement to occur while you work on the other components of the table. The final cuts and sanding will be done before installing the slab to the top of the table.
Step 2: Cut the Material for the Legs and Stretchers
I started with some 8/4 or true 2" thick stock. I cut my pieces to rough length (a bit longer than the final desired length) Milled the boards square and planed them so the boards had 4 square, flat faces. I cut the parts to make the 4 table legs and the 4 stretchers to form the base. For the leg parts, i cut the top and bottoms of those parts to a 15 degree angle, and that will give me the splayed leg look I wanted. Then i used a basic tapering jig on the table saw to cut the legs at a taper from the bottom to the top of the legs.
Step 3: Create a Drilling Guide Block and Dowels to Join the Parts Together
Because the legs are cut at an angle, you will need to be able to drill the holes for the dowels and this task would be EXTREMELY difficult without the aid of some sort of jig. So I took a small off cut and cut a 15 degree angle on one side to match the leg and a 90 degree angle on the other side for my drill bit to enter. This small block allows you to drill the holes straight into the piece for the dowels that will join the parts.
Assemble the two front and two back leg assemblies with the short stretcher that join them. Then cut a 15 degree angle on the outer face of the stretchers that will join the front and back pairs of legs. Use the doweling jig to line up where to drill the holes. Add glue to the surfaces to be joined and the dowels. Allow the glue to cure in clamps to hold pressure on the joints. I also used the drilling guide blocks with the clamps to make clamping at an awkward angle much easier.
Step 4: Make Parts for the Drawer and Drawer Case
I then used some of the wider boards in the stack to create the parts for the drawer and drawer case. I resawed this 8/4 material on the bandsaw to create the thinner stock needed for these parts. Once i cleaned up the resawed parts, i cut the miters along their long edge to be joined together into their parts. Use painters tape to align all the miters to do a test fit and make any corrections necessary. For the drawer case, i cut a small rabbet in the back of the parts to add stability to the case and make a place for the back of the drawer case to rest. Once i was sure that the case fit together well, and that the drawer would fit properly in the drawer case, I glued up all parts to the drawer and all parts (except the top) of the drawer case. Leaving the top off the case is crucial at this junction in order to maintain access to the areas where the drawer slide is to be mounted. It also makes it MUCH easier to apply finish to the interior of the drawer case.
Step 5: Install Drawer Slide and Glue on Top of the Drawer Case
Layout the location and install the drawer slide in the center of the bottom of the drawer case. Install the opposing part of the drawer slide mechanism to the bottom of the drawer. Make sure the drawer travels correctly inside the drawer case and make any micro adjustments needed. Once you are confident that the drawer and drawer slide are installed properly, finish the inside of the drawer case, as it will be difficult to access this area once the top of the drawer case is glued in place. Once finish is cured, glue the top onto the drawer case.
Step 6: Install the Drawer Face and Drawer Pull
Cut the piece that you will use for the drawer face and fit it to the front of the drawer. Using double sided tape to attach it temporarily and playing cards to ensure there is an even gap all the way around the drawer face are helpful in this process. Once the drawer face is installed, add the drawer pull to the front of the drawer face. Take care to layout all these holes in the proper location then secure the parts in place.
Step 7: Layout and Drill Holes to Attach Drawer Case to Table Base
Layout the holes to joint the drawer case to the base with the dowels to give the floating effect. Make sure that the measurement will transfer as if the dowels went all the way through the drawer case because dowels will also be used to join the live edge top to the drawer case.
Step 8: Apply Finish and Glue Parts Together
Apply Finish to the table base and drawer case, Also sand and finish the slab for the top after cutting it to the final length. It is important to finish the pieces before glue up because access will be restricted to many areas once the glue is cured. Test the fit of the dowels into the holes previously drilled in the drawer case, base and slab top. Once you are sure everything fits well, glue the dowels in place along with the drawer case and slab top.
Step 9: Apply Weight to Top of Table and Adjust If Needed
Once all parts are glued in place, use a level on each piece to make sure that you maintain level as each piece is added. I used an actual weight on the top of the table to maintain pressure while the glue cured. I had to add a couple shims in certain places to keep each component level while glueing.
Step 10: Go Watch the Video and BUILD YOUR TABLE
Thanks for checking out this instructable and supporting what i do! If you would like to support dimensions, I have detailed plans available on my website