Sometimes you just need more storage space in the kitchen, other times you have a space that needs to be filled with a nice piece of furniture, sometimes it's both! That's where I am at, and why I decided to build this sideboard. We needed more storage space, but the space we had was not large enough to add actual cabinets so this fit the bill perfectly. The nice thing about it is you could adjust it to fit your needs accordingly. You can enlarge the cabinet, could make the one side out of all drawers with no cubby, you can make multiple cabinets, literally whatever you feel using any of these techniques. The top of it can be a design piece as well. You can make a concrete top like I did (I have a video on that), you can make or buy a butcher block counter top for it and cut it to size, or just a simple wood top. The overall build is pretty do-able and can be prettied up or simplified as needed. So let's build it!

Supplies

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3 - 2x2x8
1 - 1x3x6 (I used craftsman pine)
1 - 3/4" 4x8 sheet of sanded birch ply (or similar to whatever wood you use)
Poplar or solid board for drawer fronts and door
Cove moulding (optional)
14" drawer slides
Cabinet door hinges
Cabinet pulls
Saw (miter, circular and jig)
Drill and Impact
Combination square
Tape measure
Pencil
Pocket hole jig, screws and plugs
Cabinet hinge jig (optional)
Shelf pin jig and pins (optional)
Router with chamfer and
Wood glue
Wood filler
Some sort of finish (paint, stain and clear)
18 gauge brad nailer and 1.5" nails
Edge banding to match your plywood (iron and cutter)
Block plane
Material of your choice for the top

Step 1: Prep Materials for Side Panels

To start this off we are going to cut out 2x2 material. If you have a stop block you can set it and cut them to the correct sizes right out of the gate, but I don't so I'm cutting 4 of them 1/4" longer than I need, and then flush all of the ends together and gang cut them to their final size of 31.5". Those are the legs. Now do the same with 4 more, cut them long and then gang cut to 35.75", these are the frame stretchers.

From there we can make out center panel out of our sanded plywood. You can have the hardware store cut it for you if you have no way to cut large sheet goods for you, but their cuts may not be that good. If you do you may want to have them cut it a bit heavy and then do your final cuts at home with the smaller pieces. The side panels should be 29.5" tall and 13.75" wide and you obviously need 2 of them. Once they are cut I like to finish the bottom side with some edge banding just to clean it up so there is no exposed plywood edge. It isn't like anybody will ever see it, but it makes me feel better. Snap it off the roll a little long, iron it on to activate the glue. Then using a razor blade, sharp chisel, or a edge banding cutter trim off the excess. Then soften the edges with some 120 grit by hand.

The final step for prep is some pocket holes. Take your 4, 2x2 stretchers and drill 2 pockets holes in each end with the pocket hole jig set up for 1.5" material. You may want to roll your boards around and drill your pocket holes on the "ugliest" side of your board because then it will be hidden. After that take your plywood sides and drill some pockets holes in that as well, just make sure the jig is set for 3/4" material. The plywood may have a good side and a slightly less good side, I wouldn't call it bad, just less good so drill your holes on that side. I kept my holes about 2" from each end, and about every 6-8" through the middle.

Step 2: Assemble Those Side Panels

Now we can put it all together. Take some 1x3 and use it as shims to hold up the plywood panel, making sure your edge with the banding piece will be on the bottom, and your pocket holes are facing up. Set your 2x2 leg pieces beside it, if you have a nice side of the legs you can place it out. Add some glue along the one side of them and then roll it over to the plywood, flushing up the top of the leg with the plywood. Then you can start screwing the panel to the legs using 1.5" pocket screws. I like to add one to the top corner first and the lift the other end up or down as needed in case something has a twist. Add another to the center, and then the other end. Then go back and screw in the last 2. Once that is done attach the other side.

Now we can fill the holes, this is optional but it makes a big difference. Add a glob of glue in each hole, then grab some pocket hole plugs and press them in as deep as they will go, and let the glue dry for about an hour. Once the glue is dry go ahead and shave the plugs. You can do this with a block plane like I did, but you can also use a flush trim saw if you have it. Now the pocket hole plugs never fill the hole perfectly so you'll probably have a few little gaps. I like to take some wood filler and press it deep down into those holes and then let it dry. Give it a sanding with some 120 grit after and you'll have some nice, smooth, filled holes. Just make sure to not sand for too long as the plywood veneer is pretty thin and you can go through it easily, just clean up the filler.

Now flip it over, grab some 1x3 and hold it against 1 leg. Mark it to the correct size and cut it to length (you can precut these but in case there is a twist or a miscut somewhere this is best). Now add some glue to the panel, and add a bit along the side of the leg where the end grain of the 1x3 trim will touch. Then press in the trim piece. If you cut it for a snug fit then pressure should be all it need till the glue dries. You can also add brad nails if needed or clamps to hold it down till the glue dries. Then sand the legs and trim to finish.

Step 3: Router and Optional Work

A little router work can make a big difference if you have one. I measured in from each end 3" and made a mark on the outside edge of each leg. Then with my chamfer bit in my router I eased into the mark and then went the whole length and just as I reached the other mark I eased back out. This softens the beginning and end of the design. Now, to make room for the rear panel that will mount inside the rear legs. To do that put a rabbeting bit in the router (this can also be done with a table saw if you wish). From there I marked the spot I needed to remove as it is easy to get confused. Just place them side by side with both outsides facing out and mark them. Then take one and turn it end for end so the part we just marked is on the outside now to be removed. I set my bit depth using a piece of 1/4" plywood I was using and went about another 1/32" deeper, then I proceeded to remove the material I needed along the whole length of the leg, then repeat for the other side panel. Now because the rear panel will mount inside of that groove, the rear stretchers will be 1/4" off from the side panels later. It isn't a big deal because it will not be seen since it will be on the bottom and inside rear, but for me not lining up would drive me nuts if I ever move it and I will see it. So to counter that I ran my 2 rear stretchers only through the table saw and removed 1/4" of material on the other side from the pocket holes. This will make more sense when we start assembly.

Step 4: Assemble That Frame

Time to make the basic frame structure, and it goes pretty quick. We are going to start by screwing on the rear stretchers. Take the 2 that have been ripped 1/4" thinner (if you did) and place them on some 1/4" plywood strips. This will ensure that they are in line with the inside of our rabbet we cut. Add some glue to the end and then using some 2.5" pocket screws we can attach it. Notice I layed it so the pocket holes are facing the top, this will hide them under the top when it is put on. Also notice how the stretcher is in line with the 2x2 on the side panel, this is what I was talking about before how ripping it fixes the alignment issue, otherwise it will be into the plywood that small amount (again, doesn't make a big difference, but it's the small things that add up). Then add the bottom stretcher lining the bottom of it up with the bottom of the plywood, but this time make sure your pocket holes face the inside of the cabinet so they can be hidden later. Make sure to lay it on your 1/4" plywood spacers. Flip it over and add the last 2 stretchers in the same orientation as the rear, the only difference is you don't need any spacers to lift them as they are flush with the front face.

Step 5: Floor Time

Time to put a bottom in this so it can actually hold things. Take your measurement for the floor, it's just your opening left inside the frame, and cut it out of 3/4" plywood, it should be 35.75" x 13.75". With it cut give it a test fit, I went with a snug fit so there were no gaps, trim as needed small amounts at a time. Now we can install this 2 different ways. The easy way is to take your floor panel and drill 3/4" pocket holes all around the bottom side (the less good side), add a thin bead of glue to the frame where it will sit, press it in flush with the top of the 2x2 stretchers and then screw it into place with 1.5" pocket screws.

The way I did it is more involved, but a vastly cleaner install. I went to the store and bought some cove moulding to use as a cleat. This serves to cover the pocket holes on the stretchers (that's why we faced them inside) and it will also hold the bottom shelf up. Then using a scrap piece of 3/4" ply hold it flush with the top of the 2x2, then under it mark it with a pencil, do this in the middle and on each side. This will give a line where my moulding and glue needs to go. To start with the moulding take and cut one end at 45 degrees, make sure to cut it from the top down and not laying on it's back, you want to cut this as it would be installed and standing up. Then lay it in place and use the frame to mark the length and not a tape measure as this will be much more accurate. I marked the top side so I know where to cut, I also marked what direction I need the saw blade to come from. Then with it standing like it will be installed, cut it with your saw. Give it a test fit and shave a bit more if you need to (I tend to cut 1/16" long and then fit after so I don't cut it too short at the start) With it fitting correctly you may want to cut a side one now and make sure they fit correctly against each other in a dry fit before adding glue and make adjustments as needed (it will also make sure your cuts are the right direction). When they fit remove them, add some glue along the length and then press it in (double check the position with your scrap 3/4" ply piece) and nail it in the rounded cove using either a brad nailer with 5/8" nails, or a pin nailer with 1" pins. Then literally just repeat all that working your way around until you're finished, adding glue on each end as they meet each other.

Whew, that's over, but it makes a big difference. That probably took awhile so the glue should already be getting tacky. Stand up the frame and then add a fat line of glue along the edge where the time and frame meet all the way around. This way when we add the bottom shelf some of it will squeeze out along the trim and some of it will squeeze up along the plywood sides and glue the whole assembly together. Because my 2x2 had a slight bow I added some clamps to pull them in a bit to close a gap. Give it some downward smacks to set it in and let it sit to dry.

Step 6: Middle Divider and Those Details

The middle divider is made out of 3/4" ply. Take a measurement from your floor to the top of the stretchers, and the depth from the back to front, it should be about 28" x 16 3/8". Now take a cutoff of 2x2 or measure it out and on the top sides of that panel cut out 2 squares in the corners so it can fit inside the stretchers (remember the rear one is 1/4" different from the front). Now when they are cut add one 3/4" pocket hole to the backside of it so you can screw into the stretcher, also add 3 or 4 to the bottom of it to screw to the floor. Make sure the bottom pocket holes will be on the drawer side, the drawer slide will hide them, and so you won't see them in the cabinet side. Now on the face of it because this will be exposed, add some more edge banding and soften it when finished for a seamless look. Then take your tape measure and make a mark from the right side 14.5" in, this is big enough in the cabinet for a toaster or some cookware, and on the drawer side for utensils or stretch wrap and tin foil rolls. Now take your combination square and on that mark, draw a line. Add glue on the left side of the line and then stand the panel up inside, it will take some wrestling if it is a good snug fit. Once you have it good and square use some 1.5" (or 1.25") pocket screws and screw it down to the floor. Then go up top, repeat your 14.5" mark on the stretcher, flush up the top of the panel with it and screw it into the stretchers.

Then I added some adjustable shelf holes where I figured they would be good for me, referencing a spacer I cut. You can just take and cut a shelf and using pocket holes on the bottom side of it, hard mount it to the frame if you want.

Step 7: Shelves, Fixed and Floating

There are 2 shelves in my design, one in the cabinet and the other makes a cubby above the drawers both are made out of 3/4" ply but finished differently. I started by cutting the one inside the cabinet, taking about 1/4" off the width of the cabinet side (14.25"), and 1.25" off the total depth of it but you can make it however deep you please. Once I had it cut out I edge banded the front of it and softened it like before. If you are hard mounting yours drill some pocket holes in the bottom.

For the one that makes a cubby, grab your measurements (should be about 15 5/8" x 20.5") allowing for a 1x2" front trim piece, this just gives it a thicker look. Now to attach it you can either drill some pocket holes on the bottom side of it, or put it on cleats like the floor. I had leftover trim so I did that. Make a mark from the bottom of the top stretcher at 6.75" down, then use you square again and mark a straight line into the cabinet. Now lay it on its side, cut the trim so it fits inside of our rabbet on the back and 1" from the front (this will leave it 1/4" away from our front trim) and glue and nail it in place just like we did before. Repeat for the other side. Hold up some 1x2" to the frame and cut it to fit the opening exactly. Now add some glue to the front side of the shelf and brad nail it on with some 1.5" nails. Add a big thick line of glue to the cleats right where they meet the frame again, set the shelf in place, flushing up the front trim to the frame and let it dry. If you are pocket holing it on, screw it in place.

Step 8: Drawers, Doors and Stops

This is a whole other topic unto itself. I actually used this cabinet to make a separate YouTube video for it, and another on how to make the door and drawer fronts. I go into very detailed instructions on how to make them from measuring, assembly, and mounting. I'm not getting into too much here, I encourage you to just watch those, or check out the drawer write up here. I'll give you the measurements here however of the drawers I made, as well as the material for the door and drawer fronts. The drawers are made out of 3/4" ply and the fronts and door is made out of 1.3" poplar and 1/4" ply. I also used a small scrap piece of wood and glued it to the underside of the top stretched behind the door to act as a stop. I set it back slightly to account for a small felt pad on the door so that way it sits flush with the frame when closed.

I know this one has 2 sperate drawers, but I have also made one with the same sized drawers. The height of the drawer is 7" on the ones with the same size. The one in the picture has a bottom drawer of 9" and top drawer is 5". The side panels of the drawers are 15 1/8" and the front and rear panels are 16 1/8". Build them like I show with pocket holes in the video and mount like I explain, referencing the slide instructions. These drawers have a false front that is set inside the frame so make sure to mount the hardware for that.

The door size is 26.5" for the styles and 9 3/8" for the rails, then cut the plywood to fit in the rabbet. The drawer fronts are 9 1/8" for the styles and 15 5/16" for the rails on the ones with the same size drawers. If you are making the 2 different sized ones, 11 1/8" and 7 1/8" for the styles while the rails remain the same.

Step 9: Make a Top That Suits You

Now like I said, this can be topped with whatever, but the size is 40" x 18". You can make a simple wood top from a 3/4" pine project panel like I did for my coffee table, and that would be great. You can make it out of some 2x6 if you want, but beware of warping. You could buy some butcher block counter top from the store, cut it to size and keep it oiled with mineral oil. I chose concrete because it's different, durable, looks great, and is an inexpensive way to get a stone top. I included the video where I made this exact top easily and by hand, check it out, I bet you'll like it!

Step 10: Add Your Finish, Almost There!

Now blow the whole thing apart and add your finish of choice. You can paint it, oil it or stain it like I did. I used Briarsmoke stain from Varathane Ultimate and wiped on one coat, let it sit for 30 seconds and wiped it off using shop towels. After a few hours I applied 3 coats of a water based clear coat from Varathane Diamond. I prefer the natural look of water clears, as well as no smell and fast drying. For the drawers I just clear coated them as I wanted them to stand out and be bright. Let the whole thing sit for 3 days to cure. This is the hardest part is the waiting!

Step 11: Reassembly!

Now to put it together and see what we have! I brought it upstairs to assemble on the carpet. I started upside down and added some soft felt feet to the bottoms. Then I flipped it over, and added my door. I then added my shelf pins and slid the shelf in the cabinet. Reattach the drawer slides and then add the drawers again, this may take some finagling to get them perfect again, drives me nuts lol. Once they move nicely again, add the drawer fronts and hardware.

I forgot to mention making the back panel! It's just a piece of 1/4" plywood I cut to fit inside the rabbets in the legs, and flush with the top and bottom stretchers. I stained and clear coated it just like the rest of the parts. Then using 5/8" brand nails, fire it into place along the stretchers and slightly angled into the legs. I also used a square to make sure I went straight down the center divider a couple times and into the cubby shelf. That just helps take up and slack in the center so it doesn't make noise bouncing off them.

Now just add whatever top you decided to go with. If it's concrete, take some clear 100% silicone and add some quarter sized dollops in the corners on the 2x2 legs, and maybe a little on the center divider and set it in place, trying not to slide it too much. If it is wood (butcher block or not doesn't matter) add some angle brackets to the inside with 1/2" screws and set the top in place and screw it down (exactly like I did on my coffee table).