DIY Mini Bluetooth Speaker

Introduction: DIY Mini Bluetooth Speaker

Hi All!

If you've ever wanted to have a go at making your very own Bluetooth speaker but were put off by complicated electronics then this is the perfect build for you...

This instructable shows how to put together one of the kits from our website at JCR Acoustics. All the electronics are pre-soldered and so if you have a screwdriver and it’s name is Phillip, then you already have everything you need!

So get ready to embark on a build which will leave you with great sound you can carry around!


Features:

10W of Power from Neodymium Boron Drivers

Passive Radiators for Bass Enhancement

Bluetooth 5.0

8-12 Hrs (80% Playback Volume)

Connection & Low Battery Tones

USB-C Charging with LED Status

(H)55mm x (W)182mm x (D)62mm

Order Kits by Clicking Here!

Supplies

You Will Need:

(1x) Philips Screwdriver

The Kit:

(1x) Lithium Ion Battery

(2x) Neodymium Boron Drivers

(2x) Passive Radiators

(1x) Bluetooth 5.0 Amplifier

(1x) USB-C Charging Circuit

(1x) JCR Acoustics Badge

(4x) Rubber Feet

(1x) USB-C Charging Cable

(4x) Small Screws (M2 x 4mm)

(18x) Medium Screws (M2.5 x 5mm)

(4x) Large Screws (M3 x 12mm)

(1x) Switch Circuit

(1x) Case Sleeve (Grey/Graphite)

(1x) Outer Case (Red/White/Black)

(1x) Inner Case

(1x) Middle Partition

(2x) Radiator Holders

(2x) Driver Holders

(2x) Radiator Washers

(2x) Driver Washers

(1x) Switch Washer

(1x) Charging Circuit Seal

(1x) Switch Seal

Step 1: Driver Placement

Parts Required:

(1x) Inner Case

(2x) Rubber Driver Washers

(2x) ø40mm Neodymium Boron Drivers

(2x) Driver Holders

(6x) Medium Screws

Place the rubber driver washers into the slots of the inner case. Place the driver holder over the back of drivers as shown before slotting them into the case. The drivers should sit down in the slot on top of the washers. Once in place attach the 3 screws to each driver holder. Tighten until there is resistance. Do not overtighten as you will damage the casing and work it loose.

Step 2: Radiator Placement

Parts Required:

(1x) Inner Case Assembly

(1x) Rubber Radiator Washer

(1x) ø40mm Passive Radiator

(1x) Radiator Holder

(4x) Medium Screws

As with the previous step, place the washer in first, followed by the radiator and then secure it down using the radiator holder and 4 screws. It is best to fix two opposing corners first before tightening down. Tighten evenly on all four corners, again making sure not to tighten the screws too much.

Step 3: Partition Electronics

Parts Required:

(1x) Middle Partition

(1x) Lithium-Ion Battery

(1x) Bluetooth 5.0 Amplifier

(2x) Small Screws

Attach the Bluetooth amplifier to the middle partition using the 2 smaller screws in the bottom positions shown. The switch built into the amplifier should be in the "off" position as we will be bypassing it (this is when it is closest to the micro-USB plug on the board). Flipping the middle partition over, slide in the Lithium-Ion battery into its clips in the direction shown.

Step 4: Sleeve Assembly

Parts Required:

(1x) Partition Assembly

(1x) Inner Case Assembly

(1x) Case Sleeve

(4x) Medium Screws

Taking the inner case assembly, slide it into the sleeve whilst allowing the speaker cables to pop out of the side shown. Take the middle partition and ensure that all the cables are pushed through the cable management holes as seen in the images. Connect the speakers so that the left driver (when viewing the speaker front on) is in the socket "SPKL" and vice versa. Use the screws to tighten down the middle partition to the inner case as shown in the last image for this step.

Step 5: Rear Assembly

Parts Required:

(1x) Outer Case

(1x) Rubber Radiator Washer

(1x) ø40mm Passive Radiator

(1x) Radiator Holder

(4x) Medium Screws

(1x) USB-C Charging Circuit

(1x) Rubber Charging Circuit Seal

(1x) Switch Circuit

(1x) Rubber Switch Washer

(2x) Small Screws

Taking the outer case, attach the radiator as you did in step 2 placing the washer in first.

Press the charging circuit seal onto the USB-C charging circuit. Keeping the board and seal together, angle it into its slot in the case as shown. Once the front is in, push the back down into its slot. You may want to use a flat head screwdriver to push the edge of the seal over the lip. Once in most of the way, use the same screwdriver on the edges of the USB-C charging circuit board to push it all the way in. The board should be flush with the walls of the slot when in properly. If not, your charging cable will go in at an angle and dislodge the board.

Finally, place the switch washer into its slot and push so it is in flush with the bottom. Place in the switch circuit ensuring that the rubber surrounding it goes inside the slot. The switch should be flush against the washer. Again, a flat head screwdriver may be useful here to help push it in but be careful not to bend the edges of the switch. Once in place use the two smaller screws to fix it down. You will need to hold the case in the air whilst doing this as the switch protrudes out the back.

Step 6: Combine Housings

Parts Required:

(1x) Outer Case Assembly

(1x) Inner Case Assembly

(4x) Large Screws

Now that your two halves are complete, it is time to slide the inner into the outer. First, connect the two larger connectors from each half as shown. The plugs are reversed so that you can't get them the wrong way round. Route the smaller connector through the middle partition as shown and plug it into its slot on the Bluetooth amplifier board. Manage the cables and connectors as shown in the image so they are tidy and out of the way.

It is important when fitting the two halves together that the cables don't get snagged between the two casings at the back as this will stop it closing properly and damage the cables. Once satisfied with your cable management begin to place the outer casing over the inner as shown, again paying attention to where the cables go as you do so.

Once you have it the majority of the way in apply pressure evenly to both sides of the inner casing to get it sit flush with the back. If you can't get it flush so you have the even lip around the front, then don't force it as this is most likely caused by a cable being snagged. In this scenario you can push a small Alan key in the screw holes from the back to slowly work the inner case out to re-adjust the cables.

Once the inner case is in with an even lip then use the 4 larger screws to fix into place. Apply pressure on the front as shown when screwing in. Take your time with these and make sure your screwdriver is a good fit so that you can tighten them all the way without damaging the head of the screw.

Step 7: Feet & Badge Placement

Parts Required:

(1x) Speaker Assembly

(4x) Rubber Feet

(1x) JCR Acoustics Badge

Final Stage! Grab your rubber feet and place them in the slots on the bottom of the speaker. Remove the back film from the badge and stick onto the slot on the top of the speaker with the "Acoustics" being closest to the front sleeve.

Step 8: Power & Charging

Parts Required:

(1x) USB-C Charging Cable

(1x) Speaker Assembly

The first time you power on your speaker you will need the USB-C charging cable plugged in. The red light indicates when the speaker is charging, and blue light shows when the speaker is fully charged.

When switched on the speaker will beep to show it's ready for pairing. Look for "YMX-868BT" under Bluetooth connections on your phone to pair.

It's time to enjoy the fruits of your labour and congratulate yourself on a job well done with some music played from your very own DIY speaker!

I hope you had fun building a JCR Acoustics speaker and enjoy using it for years to come - Thanks All!

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