This is a very simple design for a DIY outdoor kitchen that will bring life to any old barbecue grill.

I used very easy and readily available materials.

I also used materials that are very inexpensive.

The tools that are used are not very complex, they are tools that just about anyone has in their tool collections.

If i can build this Outdoor kitchen, anyone can.

Step 1: Frame Building Material Selection.

This frame is build out of 2 x 4 normal studs. When selecting your studs, make sure they are nice and straight all around. It wil be much easier to get nice and even results with straight 2 x 4. This probably took me good solid hour of looking through them at the Homedepot. Be patient and you will find them. For this large frame i used 12, 2 x 4.

Step 2: Assemble Main Legs

We will cut 2x4's, into 32", and we need 4 of them.

So you should have so far , qty 4, 2x4, that measure 32 inches.

Step 3: Leg Support

Next we cut additional leg supports.

Now these are more than just leg supports.

It is were the cross beams will sit.

So make sure that your cuts are as perfect as possible.

We cut 2x4's to 25 inches. We need 4 of them.

Step 4: Assemble Legs

We will make sure that the legs support fit.

Basically you center the 25" on top of the 32".

Why is that you might ask.

Well the reason is that we will be running a 2X4 on each side.

Please Remember that a 2 x 4 actually measures 1.5 by 3.5.

Hence 3.5" plus 3.5" equals 7".

25 plus seven equals 32.

Hopefully it makes sense.

Step 5: Assemble Legs and Drilling

Once the 25" is center on top of the 32" I hold it in place with clamps.

I predrill them and create 5 holes for screws.

I screw 2 on top, 1 in the middle and 2 on the bottom.

I used 2 1/2" hex screws to screw them together.

Step 6: Support Beams.

So this is where we cut the cross support beams. We will cut a total 6 for the top and 6 for the bottom.

The long support beams are 36 inches, the short ones are 16 1/2 inches. You will have to change this sizes depending on how much counter top space you need.

For the top part cut 4 at 16 1/2 inches and 2 at 36 inches.

For the bottom part cut 4 at 16 1/2 inches and 2 at 36 inches.

This method of building frames is so easy. It basically connects together very simple as long as you have been using straight boards.

Step 7: Attaching Legs and Support Beams to Other Support Beams.

So now we attach the shorter side support.

Now this are the ones that measure 16 1/2 inches. The should fit flush against the other support beam.

Again, I hold them in place with clamps and pre-drill them.

I also make sure that they are squared and then I drill.

It might seem confusing right now, but we actually have the frame on its side right now.

Step 8: Attaching Legs to Support Beams

So now you lay the legs on there side as you can see in the picture. You get 2 of the 36 inches and lay them flat. Make sure that they are flush against the legs. I also pre-drilled all of them and held them in place with long clamps. I used 2 screws on each end.

Step 9: Frame Check

Now if everything is squared, and all your cuts are perfect or pretty close, this next part should be pretty easy.

Just repeat the same step that you did for the bottom part.

This would a good time to check make sure all of your screws are tight and if you need more screws now is the time to do it.

Step 10: Attaching Wheels

I also added some caster wheels because I know that I am going to be moving them around when I have friends over.

I ordered this caster wheels from Amazon. They came in a 12 pack 12 inch for 21.99.

They also have brakes on them as well.

Now, you could what ever you want, but make sure that your wood is off the floor.

Make sure to pre-drill them as well. .

I used smaller screws here, only 1 1/2", because I didn't want to hit the other screws.

Step 11: Table Top

So this is where you test out your frame.

We had granite left over from an old remodel job we did.

But you could use other counter tops as well.

Generally you can find pretty cheap granite on craigslist or offer up.

I just found some the other day that was only 100$, that would have been way more than I need it.

You could also make a top out of 2 x 6's that would come out really nice as well.

This is also a good time to attach your other 16 1/2" cross beams that you have.

2 on top and 2 on the bottom.

They will help support whatever counter top and shelving you put on.

Step 12: Prepping for the Sidings

I added another piece of 2 x 4 here so that I could attach my siding. This makes so that all my sidings are even.

This particular 2 x 4's only required 2 screws.

The reason was because the sidings are not that heavy.

They are not being used for structural support.

You will also need to attache one on the bottom on each side.

Step 13: Sidings Support

When you attach these beams try not to put the screws to high that way your nails for the sidings are not hitting the screws.

Step 14: Red Wood Fence

My siding is made out of red wood fencing material.

I think they are about 1.58$ for a 6 footer at Lowes.

The reason I used red wood, is because it last a long time, it is cheap and my goodness gracious it is just plain out beautiful.

Again take your time when choosing your red wood.

Make sure that they are straight on the face on the side.

It makes life a lot easier when dealing with straight wood.

Generally you can make two sidings out of one board if your are using the same dimensions I used.

Another thing to consider is whether it is still moist or does it need to dry.

Wood is a bit thicker when it is wet so it will create space between your slats when it dries.

Step 15: To Sand or Not to Sand?

If you like the rough wood look and you don't mind your company getting splinters on their fingers than don't worry about sanding.

Also there are other fence wood that comes more smoother so you probably wouldn't need to worry about sanding. If so you can skip steps and go to putting the sidings on.

Step 16: The Sanding Process

You would also cut them down to the height you need them to.

This were cut down to 32", so I was able to get 2 out of 1 board.

I don't go all crazy on sanding.

All I did was used Ryobi corner sander with a 80 grit.

I basically just sanded until I could run my finger through the wood with out getting splinters.

I didn't spend more than a few minutes on them.

Just make sure that for the most part the side you have selected is smooth.

It will help when you do the staining process.

Step 17: The Staining Process

So I used stain that my wife found at the home depot in the clearance section.

We pay 9$ for it, which if you have ever bought stain than you know how expensive it is.

The particular color we used was atlantic.

It's pretty simple, all you need is foam brushes and disposable shop rags.

You cover it about 1/3 of the board really well.

We did only the side that we were going to use and the thin sides as well.

After that you simply wipe it off with the shop rags.

One of the most easiest process to do.

Step 18: Attaching Sidings

This sidings dry pretty fast.

It all depends how many coats you need to use.

If you are in a area with a lot of moisture I would definitely do more than one coat.

This sidings were attached using 2 1/2" 18g finish nails with my nailer.

This process usually goes pretty fast.

You will have some corners that just quite don't fit, but hopefully you have a table saw you can run them through to make them even.

Step 19: Building the Door Support

As you might of already noticed this is a bigger one than the one I showed attaching the sidings. The only difrence was one was longer but same height and width.

Right in the middle of it I attached 1" X 1" so that doors can close.

Also this would be a good time to add a shelve on the bottom if you want to use it to store your grilling supplies.

Step 20: Making the Doors

I lay out what the front boards would like and what order we want them in. I also measure the clearance so that the door is able to swing open.

Next you just lay three boards on the ground and space them accordingly.

You can either use small screws or nails to make the door.

I chose to use small finishing nails and my nailer because it is just that much more easier.

Keep in mind that there are other ways to make doors, I just chose this one because I thought it would be the easiest.

I placed my door next to island and marked were I needed to cut off
to finish the door. You will probably need a hand saw for this. The other option is not to nail them down and to cut the boards individually with a miter saw. In hindsight this method was a lot easier.