Introduction: Self Build Shepherds Hut. Step by Step With Photos. Off Grid Living

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About: I am not a tradesman of any description merely a handy sort of fella, I enjoy building items and structures around my property that are both nice to look at and functional, to be enjoyed by my family and frien…


Traditionally a Shepherds hut was used by sheep farmers to stay in during the Lambing season, some examples are still in use hundreds of years after first built. They where mounted on wheels in order that they could be moved between fields.

I had the use of some lovely land with small lakes and ponds, I often camped there with my young son but wanted something more permanent than a tent that could be used all year round. I initially looked into buying a shepherds hut but was flabbergasted by how much they cost to buy, anywhere between £10000 and £30000, I am not a joiner or tradesman of any kind and thought I could build one myself considerably cheaper, also I enjoy the process of building something useful and the satisfaction of achievement gained.

Doing the research online I never really found any comprehensive building instructions, I decided I would document each stage.

I also decided on my basic requirements for the hut which was 1 x bunkbed, 1 x double bed and a form of off grid heating and lighting, it also needed to be capable of being moved over short distances by road.

I completed the project in the evenings and weekends through Nov and Dec 2020.

Supplies

In all the project cost me around £3500 which was around twice my estimate. Timber is expensive, the biggest outlay for materials was the corrugated metal, especially the curved roofing metal. No special power tools where required.

I have included a rough drawing that I used to calculate the main materials.

Angle grinder

Circular saw

Jigsaw

Power screw driver/drill.

Lots of timber

Lots of wood screws

Corrugated metal and associated screws

Fibre Insulation

Step 1:

Photo 1 - My trailer

Photo 2 and 3 - An original Shepherds hut

The first stage for me was to find a suitable chassis, traditionally these huts would be fitted to a metal chassis with small cast iron wheels. I wanted my hut to be more mobile than that so I found this old 6x10' Farm Trailer (Petit Trailer). Which was smaller than I would have liked but it was only £100 and I could just have a bit more overhang.

My plan for the huts footprint was 12' x 7' which after reading numerous articles is really the smallest useful living space recommended.

Step 2:

I started by stripping the old timbers from the trailer and removing the hydraulic tipping jack which was just unnecessary weight.

I then used a wire brush on my angle grinder to clean off any loose rust and then painted the entire trailer with Hammerite.

Step 3:

I was now in a position to construct the main frame. I made the base as per my planned drawing by first making the floor and laying it on top of pressed wood boards, then constructing the the four walls allowing for a window and a door which I had in waiting.

To form the curved roof areas of the end walls I decided that the easiest method was to just make square walls and then later when cladding external walls with pressed chip wood boards, I would just shape those and bace them internally.

In my eagerness to get the walls up I neglected to photograph the walls going up, however I simply build them flat on the newly laid floor area and got a friend to help me lift them up and screwed them to one another.

Step 4:

Next stage was to cut and fix the pressed wood boards to the external frame, allowing for the curved roof which I simply cut using the curved corrugated sheets as a template.

I also inserted the 3 main roof trusses running fore and aft.

Step 5:

Even though the build area was sheltered it was still exposed to wind and rain so I was very keen to get it some level of protection as soon as possible. I covered the entire structure in a breathable waterproof membrane (the sort you put on new roofs) I simply stapled it on.

I then fitted the door and attached the curved corrugated roof allowing for a slight over hang.

Step 6:

I acquired some nice old stained glass windows from an internet sale site and cleaned one up and made a simple frame .

Step 7:

I then attached the corrugated metal to the rest of the structure, I made all necessary cuts using my grinder fitted with a metal cutting disc.

Step 8:

I made some simple steps which could be attached and removed as required and painted the door and window, this completed the external work of the project allowing me to work in relative comfort on the interior.

Step 9:

Now that I was inside I decided first to fit any wiring, all I wanted was the ability to have two plug sockets on either wall, this was incase I ever moved the hut to my home so that occupants would have access to electricity.

I then filled the floor cavity before laying the floor boards.

I also varnished the floor at this stage to protect the timber while I continued the internal work.

Step 10:

As it was still winter I wanted to get some heat source for comfort while I worked. I acquired a nice little wood burner from eBay which needed tidying up for £100.

I stripped it, cleaned it and painted it before fitting new fire bricks and fire rope.

Step 11:

I fitted the little stove after insulating that corner and covering the corner walls in vermiculite board.

Much like they used to do on timber ships in Nelsons day I sat the fire on a stone slab to prevent fire through conduction with the timber.

I cut a hole through the corrugated roof for the flue then fitted a fireproof silicone flange so that it was watertight. These flanges are excellent as you can trim to fit snug around the flue and they can be shaped to the form of the corrugated roof.

Step 12:

I completely insulated the interior with 50mm fibre before covering the walls in pine tongue and groove.

By this stage my kids where getting fed up of my absence!

Step 13:

Next was the plywood Ceiling. This was a little tricky single handed, as you can see I used lengths of timber to hold the ply up to form the curve of the roof. I simply nailed these up.

Step 14:

I fitted beading to every interior join before applying numerous coats of varnish.

Step 15:

The ceiling was painted white to provide some contrast to the abundance of timber.

I was now only left with internal fittings and furnishing to complete.

Step 16:

As I stated previously I wanted a bunk bed and a double bed, I therefore constructed a single bed which can be pulled out and convert to a double with storage underneath.

I purchased some mattress sponge and some tartan cloth and stapled the cloth over the sponge to plywood boards.

I cut an old wooden ladder to size for the bunk and varnished everything.

Step 17:

I wanted the hut to be lit and heated off grid so as well as the wood stove I got hold of some oil lamps and made brackets for them to sit in for safety and put a small mirror behind each lamp for extra light reflection.

I also made a couple of shelves on either wall.

Step 18:

I needed a surface to prepare food and cook on that didn't take up too much space so I made a simple fold out table that can be stowed flush to the wall when not in use.

Step 19:

Now the project was complete it was a case of moving it the short distance to its new home and putting it to use.

Step 20:

To summarise the build it was at times more challenging than I expected and I remember thinking actually the price that these things command is probably justified, an awful lot of labour goes into their construction. That said I really enjoyed building it and there is no reason anyone with a little bit of DIY know couldn't knock one up.

As to things I would probably have done differently:

  1. I wish I had of put a window on each wall as this would make positioning the hut easier allowing for a nice view.
  2. I was limited to size by the chassis, I will in future build another larger one with its own bathroom and kitchen area.
  3. The axle on the farm trailer is very narrow compared to the hut, this makes it very unstable when towing. Get an axle as wide as the hut.

We have used the hut lots of times at every time of year and it is a fantastic space to be in. The size and insulation combined with the fire makes it unbelievably warm in winter, literally sauna temperatures on the coldest of days. We have to sleep with the window fully open as a minimum, I am confident you could live quite comfortably in Arctic temperatures in it, it really is that thermal efficient.

I have now moved the hut to my home where we use it as additional accommodation, I fitted usb/plug sockets and my daughter actually stays in it when home form university.

I hope this was useful and even if it gives you some ideas my little project was worth sharing.