DIY Skateboard

Hi! Welcome to my first instructable! We are constructing a skateboard today using materials from Roarockit.com.

Here is a list of all the materials I used during this project, organized in chronological order:

1.) Glue and Press

• 7 Layers of Veneer. Canadian Maple was used in this project. Pre-cut or uncut works*
• Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue*
• Tap Kit*
• Vacuum Bag*
• Resealable C-type Adhesive*
• 2oz Glue Cup*
• Breather Netting*
• Foam Mold*
• Masking Tape

All starred items can be obtained from Roarockit.com I recommend the site.

2.) Sanding, Drilling, and Fixing/Shaping

• Jigsaw
• C-Clamps
• Finishing Sander
• Sandpaper
• Power Drill with 3/16th drill bit

3.) Finishing

• Acrylic Paint
• Brushes
• Varathane Clear Glossy

4.) Assembly

• Skate Trucks
• Wheels/Bearings
• Grip Tape

Step 1: Glue and Press

Material Used

• 7 Layers of Veneer. Canadian Maple was used in this project. Pre-cut or uncut works*
• Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue*
• Tap Kit*Vacuum Bag*
• Resealable C-type Adhesive*
• 2oz Glue Cup*
• Breather Netting*
• Foam Mold*
• Masking Tape

Your veneer can come pre-shaped or plain from Roarockit.com.

If the veneer is pre-shaped or unshaped, advance forward. You can copy my dimensions in the next step.

You may notice there are different grain directions of your veneer. Layout the veneer in the following Method:

• Long
• Long
• Cross
• Long
• Cross
• Long
• Long

This is to ensure that the strength of the board is well distributed. See the visuals to notice the differences in the grain.

Glue Prep and Application

After understanding the differences in the grains of the veneer, it is time to glue. First, apply glue to a scrap piece of material like paper or cardboard. This step is to ensure the glue roller is saturated with glue and will spread evenly on the veneer.

• Apply 1.5 to 2oz of Titebond III glue to the veneer.
• Do not glue the top or bottom sides as they will stick to vacuum bag.
• Use the glue roller to even distribute the glue across the board.
• Being too frugal will make the board weak, being too copious will result in the board being wet.

WORK QUICKLY, but in a calm manner. The glue is drying the moment it is applied.

After the glue is applied, place the board on the foam mold. Once aligned well, apply masking tape to both sides of the board to avoid slipping.

Pressing

1. Once ready, place the board halfway into your vacuum bag
2. Then place and position the breather netting under the TAP valve. This netting acts as a buffer between the suctioning area of the bag, and the project.
3. Once aligned, place the board all the way into the bag, while making sure the netting is under the valve on the inside of the vacuum bag.

Seal the bag with the sealant. Make sure the corners of the bag are secure.

Air Removal

1. Begin pumping air out of the vacuum bag with the TAP Pump. You should notice the bag immediately losing air. If not, double check your sealant.
2. If your bag is in the clear, keep pumping air out until no more air can come out.
3. Once done, walk away for an hour. Come back to the project to make sure the bag has not gained any air. If there is a leak, double check your seal. If no air has entered the bag, let the project dry for at least 8 hours.

Step 2: Fixing/Shaping

Materials Used

• Jigsaw
• C-Clamps
• Paper Stencil (if needed)
• Pencil (if needed)

Coming back to the project, remove the top rubber valve.

This allows air into the project.

• Apply a protective piece for the reusable sealant. I recommend the same cardboard piece it came in. Moving on, remove the project and remove the tape.

Board in hand, I noticed some pieces of veneer had shifted out of place. To fix this I recommend a router, but I used a jigsaw. I clamped down the project and began shaping the wood.

Unshaped Veneer

If you have an unshaped piece of veneer, I posted the dimensions I have on the board. So if you need to cut the skateboard shape out, do so now. While cutting the dimensions I recommend making a stencil out of paper or cardboard. Trace the stencil onto the unshaped veneer, and cut with a jigsaw.

Step 3: Sanding and Drilling

Materials Used

• Finishing Sander
• Sandpaper
• Power Drill with 3/16th drill bit

Once you are happy with the shape of the board, it is time to sand it.

I tend to go overboard with my sanding, but it is completely not necessary. Using the Finishing Sander, begin sanding with a low grit sandpaper. Sand both sides and edges.

I recommend rounding your edges as well, to give an overall finished feel for the board.

Work your way up in grit to desired finish. My progression was:

• 60
• 100
• 150
• 220
• 320

If you do not have a finishing sander, you can sand by hand. This will take much longer.

Drill the holes in the board now. Using a power drill and 3/16ths drill bit, drill through the wood.

Step 4: Finishing

Materials Used

• Acrylic Paint
• Brushes
• Varathane Clear Glossy

For finishing, apply paint in any pattern desired. Get creative, this is your project!

I used acrylic paints and hand brushes. Feel free to use spray paint or any paint desired.

After the paint is applied, allow it to dry. Once dry, apply 1 coat of Varathane. The Varathane is a waterproofing substance which will extend the longevity of the board. Let dry for an hour. Come back and reapply a second coating of Varathane to the project. Allow to dry for ample amounts of time. Remember to do both sides.

Step 5: Grip Tape

Once finished with waterproofing, it is now time to apply the Grip Tape. Unroll tape and place over the board. Press down and apply it well, avoiding air bubbles in the tape. Once on, cut the excess tape off. Begin sanding the sides to apply a smooth finish with the grip tape.

Step 6: Trucks and Wheels

The trucks come with bolts and a back pad. Bolt on the trucks and apply the wheels. If your unsure on how to do this process, there are plenty of good YouTube videos out there!

How to Install Wheels and Bearings

How to Install Trucks

Step 7: Get Riding!

Your board is good to go now! Start riding!