Introduction: DIY Stainless Steel Pipe Draft Beer Tower
I've seen quite a few beer tower projects made of black iron pipe and although I like the 'industrial modern' look I don't like the rust that eventually forms on the pipe fittings. Painting black iron pipe with clear paint isn't the answer because the gloss finish takes away a lot of the effect.
So, I decided that the right answer is to build a 2 faucet draft T-tower out of all stainless steel pipe fittings.
Step 1: The Parts List
To build your own beer tower you will need:
- 1 - 10" X 2" 304 Stainless Steel nipple
- 1 - 2" Black Iron Flange for mounting plate - the only non-stainless part of the project
- 1 - 2" 304 Stainless Steel Threaded Tee
- 2 - 2" X Close 304 Stainless Steel Threaded Nipples
2 - 2" 304 Stainless Steel 90 Degree Elbows
2 - 2" X 1/2" 304 Stainless Steel Threaded Bushings
- 2 - 1-3/4" Beer Shanks
- 10' - 3/16" X 10' of heavy duty beer line cut into two 5' lengths
- 2 - 13.3MM Oetiker clamps
- 1 Roll of Teflon Tape - I like Blue Monster tape
Note: For this project, the Teflon Tape is not used to seal the pipe threads. Your beer tower threads don't need to be sealed. The tape is used to prevent galling when you tighten the fittings. Thread galling is a form of cold welding where stainless steel threads will actually bond together. Once threads gall it's impossible to further tighten or loosen the fitting.
Step 2: Drill Both 2" X 1/2" Bushings to 7/8"
Standard beer shanks fit through a 7/8" hole, which does not exist in plumbing.
I've seen some projects where the builder used a 7/8" washer on the front of a 2" X 1" bushing, but I think it's not a very clean solution.
To me the right answer is to start with a bushing with the closest under size hole then mill or drill the hole up to 7/8". And this is exactly what we did for the two bushings we bought for our beer tower.
Step 3: Test Fit Your Beer Shanks
Before moving to the next step you should trial fit your beer shanks.
I don't have the shanks I'm going to use in my beer tower yet but I do have a 4" long beer shank that I used to test my drilling - and the shank fits both perfect.
Here is a link to the type beer shank you will want to use for your beer tower.
https://www.amazon.com/Kegco-SHANK2-ASC-Stainless-...
This shank includes a black plastic flange that you would throw away or use with another project.
Step 4: Paint the Mounting Flange
The flange fitting or mounting plate is the only part of my beer tower not made of stainless steel. I wanted to use a stainless steel flange but I discovered that stainless steel flange fittings are extremely expensive!
Since this is the only part that will rust without protection I painted the flange fitting with Krylon gloss back paint.
Step 5: Wrap Your Threads With Teflon Tape
Don't Skip This Step!!! If you do and your threads gall you will be throwing out expensive stainless steel parts and starting over!
If I were applying this tape to seal the pipe joints I would wrap three full wraps of tape the entire width of the threads. But because I only want to prevent galling and I want the tape to pretty much disappear as I screw the fittings together I carefully wrapped 2 turns of tape onto the first 3 - 4 threads of each threaded part. This way the tape disappears as I assemble the parts.
Step 6: Assemble the T Tower
Using a bench top vise and a large pair of slip joint pliers or plumbers wrench, assemble all the fittings.
The threads need to be tight enough to not move but not torqued down super tight.
Make sure you check your fitting alignment.
Step 7: Add Teflon Tape to the Bushings and Install Your Beer Shanks and Beer Lines
Since I'm waiting for my beer shanks to ship from Amazon, I just applied tape to the bushings and trial fit them.
For your project you would install your beer shanks, then attach 5' beer lines to your shanks.
Then wrap Teflon tape on the first 3 - 4 threads of the bushings and install.
Step 8: Almost Done - Waiting for Beer Shanks
You can see that this makes a very nice 2 Tap Beer Tower that would be the perfect addition for any 'industrial modern' themed home bar or man cave. The center point of my beer shanks are right at 10-1/2" from the bar top which is plenty tall enough for any of my beer glasses. If you want more height just add length to the 10" nipple I used for my tower. Threaded nipples come in 2" steps, so you can easily make your height 12-1/2" or 14-1/2" from your bar top with a simple part swap.
Step 9: Adding Beer Shanks
Beer shanks come in a variety of lengths, are available in Stainless Steel or Chrome Plated Brass, and have attached or removable beer line nipples. The ones I used are 1-3/4" long and have attached beer line nipples.
Beer shanks also ship with a stainless or black front flange fitting. I removed the flange for this beer tower because I believe the tower looks better without them. If you decide to include the flange fittings on yours just make sure you order longer beer shanks to compensate for the length the flanges take up.
Step 10: Assemble the Beer Shanks
Assuming you drilled the holes right the beer shanks should just drop into the holes, then you spin on and tighten the nuts from the back.
You'll see that the beer flanges have a small lip towards the front. This lip will sit on the front of the fitting, leaving clearance for the beer faucet nut to spin free. If yours drops all the way into the holes then you have drilled the holes too large.
Step 11: Attach the Beer Lines
Next you attach your beer lines. I use Oetiker clamps. Oetikers are used by most of the beverage industry and they are great clamps.
I attached 5' of heavy duty 3/16" beer line to each beer shank.
Step 12: Fish the Lines Through the Beer Tower
The beer lines will make the outside turn easy but you will need to make a tool to pull the lines out of the bottom of your beer tower.
I made a tool out of a piece of scrap aluminum but you could also use a metal coat hanger.
Step 13: Final Product!
Here are pictures of the beer tower sitting on my bar.
You'll have to admit - it's a great looking beer tower!!!
If interested in buying instead of building your own, these are available from our Amazon Store.
25 Comments
2 years ago
This seems to be one of the definitive resources for this project so I wanted to post a quick tip: the instructions suggest buying 1/2" bushings and drilling them out. It's been noted in another comment why: because the next size up, 3/4", will be too large.
I'm here to offer proof that this is not necessarily the case. 3/4" bushings will work with no modification. It's really close, but the shank lip will rest properly against the face. I'm using Ward bushings and Draft Warehouse SS shanks. See attached pic. Yes, this is tightened all the way with the nut from inside. Yes, the faucet nut on the outside still spins freely.
3 years ago
Love the look of this. Wanting to build something similar for a seltzer water set up, only need a single tap. Thought I'd do this to save money but then saw that just the 10" x 2" nipple alone is around $30. I can just buy a real beer tower on ebay for $40, so I guess I'll just go with that... dang!
Reply 3 years ago
Go on line and look for something called a premix dispensing valve. The right one will link just like a valve that you see on a Pepsi machine and it mounts to the side of your fridge with 4 screws from the back.
Question 3 years ago on Step 1
hi,
on the article you suggest a:
" 1-3/4" Beer Shanks "
but on the link you shared to purchase from amazon the size on the amazon page is 2-1/8".
whitch one is the correct size i need?
Answer 3 years ago
thanks.
here is one:
Draft Warehouse 1-3/4 Inch Long Beer Nipple Shank, Stainless Steel (SS304) with Stainless Steel Flange, 3/6-Inch Bore https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVI92AU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_drCZDbEJ1QNND
Reply 3 years ago
That one will work.
Reply 3 years ago
awsome
many thanks
Answer 3 years ago
More than likely someone has updated the Amazon listing. The size you need is whatever is long enough without bumping into the pipe in the back. And the longer length should work fine.
4 years ago
Your Amazon Store link is dead. Would be interested in how much you charge for a fully built version.
4 years ago
Hey! Building this for our coffee shop. Curious how you tightened the faucet nut? It doesn't look like you would be able to use a faucet nut wrench with how its buried up in the bushing. How do you tighten it down? Thanks!
Reply 4 years ago
I used a deep well socket to tighten the two nuts. But the hardest part isn't tightening the nuts, the hardest part is fishing the beer lines through the pipes. I ended up making a hook from a piece of 1" wide alminum to pull the tubing down into the center pipe.
Reply 4 years ago
Roger that Tom, thank you. Quick other question regarding maintenance. If a nut comes loose or a line leaks at its connection to the beer shank, is it possible to get the bushings off and work on the connection or would that twist your lines too much? Want to make sure maintenance isn't a nightmare. And one last! Not sure it matters, but did you drill a smooth hole or a threaded hole for your beer shank in the bushings? (that sounded sexual, i am sorry)
Reply 4 years ago
The bushing will unscrew without a problem. One thing I did but did not put in the instructions is I twisted the bushing counter clockwise before threading it into the elbow. This way I actually unwrapped the twist in the line as I screwed the bushing into the elbow. I don't remember how many turns - 3 or 4.
Also, I've worked on beverage equipment for years and I've not seen a Oetiker clamp that's installed right leak yet. I've seen lots of screw type clamps leak, but they put uneven pressure on the hose.
I drilled a smooth hole. I wanted to drill then tap the hole but it's extremely hard to tap stainless steel with hand tools. If you want to try the thread size is 7/8 X 14.
Question 5 years ago on Introduction
Are the Oetiker clamps 13.3MM when open or closed? Thank you.
Answer 4 years ago
I don't know, now I need to measure one. But I believe it's 13.3mm open.
5 years ago
Did you have any issues cooling it, and beer foam isues? If so how did you remedy it?
Reply 4 years ago
Cooling is a challenge. We manufacture and sell beer tower coolers that work great in standard beer towers but the cold air just cools the center of this T-tower. If I ever take this tower apart I'm going to add a tee and tubing that reaches across to the elbows then I'll plug one of my beer tower coolers into the tee. This way cold air will dump out at the elbows.
5 years ago
Just out of curiosity, why didn't you use a galvanized flange? You can pick one up for less than $15, roughly what the black iron flange cost. Not that it looks bad, but just wondering if I'm missing something.
Reply 4 years ago
I compared the two side by side and I liked the black iron flange better than the galvanized.
5 years ago
I've been perving on these ever since I saw them. Thanks for the instructions, definitely think I'm going to make one for myself. I have a couple of questions, however.
If you're drilling a 7/8 hole for the shanks, wouldn't it be easier if you got bushings with 3/4" holes instead of 1/2" (drilling out 1/8" instead of 3/8")?
What type of drill bit are you using for drilling the bushings?
If I wanted a narrower spread to my taps, do you feel it would be fine to use street elbows instead of separate elbows and nipples?