DIY Water Treatment Train
Intro: DIY Water Treatment Train
This water treatment train combines a few #DIYBMP devices for filtration or adsorption in a number of different water treatment applications:
- stormwater treatment
- pond filtration
- large aquarium filtration
- hydroponics & aquaponics
- aquaculture
- rainwater harvesting
- natural swimming pool
This Instructable details how to build a vortex clarifier, filter barrel, and an active media barrel.
Depending on your application and contaminants of concern, each piece could stand alone, be combined with another piece, or included in the full treatment train detailed here.
I work professionally in the water treatment industry and maintain some water-centric hobbies. Knowing that I tinker in small-scale, inexpensive versions of industrial equipment, friends have asked how they might build their own systems for their hobbies or businesses - for rainwater harvesting, aquaponics, aquaculture, aquariums, and even industrial stormwater treatment. My Instructables about DIY aquatics equipment are meant to share some of the hacks, science, and builds more broadly with others.
STEP 1: Build the Vortex Clarifier
This is a hydrodynamic separator for pre-treatment in a number of different water treatment applications.
Target Contaminants - Total Suspended Solids
Estimated Flow- 25 gallons per minute
Action - Separates bulk solids that sink or float; approximately 2 minutes retention to settle bulk solids
Project Estimate - $45
Step 1: Gather Parts
(1) 55 gal drum from local reclaim or Craigslist
(2) Banjo 1.5" bulkhead from Amazon.com
Parts from Home Depot
(1) 1.5" x 2" PVC adapter (MPT x slip)
(1) 2" PVC stub (3")
(1) 2" PVC drop tube (28")
(2) 2" PVC Elbow 90
(1) 1.5" PVC Tee
(1) 1.5" PVC stub (6")
(1) 1.5" PVC adapter (MPT x slip)
Step 2: Prep Barrel
Drill holes for the fill tube and skim drain bulkheads, approximately 3" from top of inverted barrel.
Cut hole on top of barrel to receive stormwater from site downspout, diverter, or pump and to allow access for internal plumbing.
Step 3: Install Bulkhead Fittings
Install bulkheads for fill tube and skim drain.
Step 4: Install Internal Plumbing
Install internal adapters into bulkhead fittings.
Install fill tube and skim drain assemblies.
Step 5: Install External Plumbing
Install fill plumbing as desired from source.
Install drain plumbing as desired to reach next treatment step or discharge location.
Depending on the layout and application, elevating the vortex clarifier will enable gravity flow. Three concrete blocks makes a safe and stable platform up to 3 layers tall.
STEP 2: Build the Filter Barrel
This is a slow sand filter for filtration in a number of different water treatment applications.
Target Contaminants- Total Suspended Solids
Estimated Flow - 25 gallons per minute
Action - Filters suspended solids
Project Estimate - $130
Step 1: Gather Parts
(1) 55 gal drum from local reclaim or Craigslist
(1) Banjo 2" bulkhead from Amazon.com
Parts from Home Depot
(2) 2" PVC adapter (MPT x slip)
(1) 2" PVC perforated underdrain (14") - pre-drill 1/4" holes or cut slits using saw
(1) 2" PVC Cap
(1) 2" PVC riser (34")
(2) 2" PVC stub (3")
(1) 2" PVC stub (6")
(1) 2" PVC Tee
(2) 2" PVC Elbow 90
(1) 2" PVC valve
(4) 2’ x 2’ section weed barrier fabric (separators between the media layers)
Step 2: Prep Barrel
Drill hole for the underdrain bulkhead, approximately 3" from bottom of inverted barrel.
Cut hole on top of barrel to receive stormwater from site downspout, diverter, or pump and to allow access for internal plumbing.
Step 3: Install Internal Plumbing
Install bulkhead for underdrain.
Connect internal adapter into bulkhead fitting. Install underdrain assembly.
Step 4: Install Discharge Plumbing
Install fill plumbing as desired from source.
Install drain plumbing as desired to reach next treatment step or discharge location.
Depending on the layout and application, elevating the filter will enable gravity flow. Three concrete blocks makes a safe and stable platform up to 3 layers tall.
Step 5: Install Media Bed
Install media, separating each type with a section of weed barrier fabric.
(4 bags) Drain Rock for drainage support (10" layer)
(4 bags) Pea Gravel for solids separation down to 300 microns (2 x 5" layers)
(6 bags) Pool Filter Sand for solids separation to 30 microns (15" layer) - best pricing at your local pool supply
STEP 3: Make the Active Media Barrel
This is a modified slow sand filter for filtration and active adsorption of heavy metals and nutrients.
Target Contaminants - Total Suspended Solids
Heavy Metals (Zn, Cu, Al, Fe)
Nutrients (COD, BOD, Ammonia)
Estimated Flow - 25 gallons per minute
Action - Actively adsorbs heavy metals and nutrients
Project Estimate - $240
Step 1: Gather Parts
(1) 55 gal drum from local reclaim or Craigslist
(1) Banjo 2" bulkhead from Amazon.com
Parts from Home Depot
(2) 2" PVC adapter (MPT x slip)
(1) 2" PVC perforated underdrain (14") - pre-drill 1/4" holes or cut slits using saw
(1) 2" PVC Cap
(4) 2’ x 2’ section weed barrier fabric (separators between the media layers)
Step 2: Prep Barrel
Drill hole for the underdrain bulkhead, approximately 3" from bottom of inverted barrel.
Cut hole on top of barrel to receive stormwater from site downspout, diverter, or pump and to allow access for internal plumbing.
Step 3: Install Internal Plumbing
Install bulkhead for underdrain.
Connect internal adapter into bulkhead fitting.
Install underdrain assembly.
Step 4: Install Discharge Plumbing
Install fill plumbing as desired from source.
Install drain plumbing as desired to reach next treatment step or discharge location.
Depending on the layout and application, elevating the filter will enable gravity flow. Three concrete blocks makes a safe and stable platform up to 3 layers tall.
Step 5: Install Media Bed
Install media, separating each type with a section of weed barrier fabric.
(4 bags) Drain Rock for drainage support (10" layer)
(2 bags) Pea Gravel for solids separation down to 300 microns (5" layer)
(2 bags) Pool Filter Sand for solids separation to 30 microns (5" layer) - best pricing at your local pool supply
(10 bags) Active media - Zeolite for adsorption of metals & nutrients (25" layer) - may be locally available as "horse stall deodorizer" at farm or feed store
STEP 4: Assemble the Treatment Train
Depending on your application and contaminants of concern, each piece could stand alone, be combined with another piece, or included in the full treatment train detailed here.
STEP 5: ...or Assemble a Hybrid Treatment Train
Note that for some applications, combining the large and small DIYBMPs may work well for isolating active media into a separate container for easier change-out or recharge. See the "Hybrid Treatment Train" examples attached to this step.
Check out the DIY Water Treatment Tower for details on constructing the larger DIYBMPs.
33 Comments
Phil_S 8 years ago
Nicely put together, with some decent fittings for a change.
I use a similar, but smaller system to feed a 500-litre tank with rainwater. The first stage uses three layers of fish pond foam filters on top of 10-mm (pea) gravel. I actually use the water in the house, so it also goes through a UVC disinfection device, also used for fish ponds, plus a small amount of bleach (sodium hypochlorite).
The vortex principle is used on large scale separators for things like waste water treatment and on a smaller scale for central heating circulating water clean-up.
The surface skimmer is also from the waste water industry to make sure that suface scum doesn't get into the next stages.
Years ago, I developed a self-cleaning filter (too complicated to describe here), but it filtered sewage effluent to produce really clear water.
Rainwater harvesting and systems like yours will become increasing important as the pressures on jighly purified potable water increase. Using rainwater to flush WC's is just one use, plus washing clothes and dishes. The soft rainwater considerably extends the life of all pipework, including underground.
lawson4u2b 1 year ago
lawson4u2b 1 year ago
rabbits and hydroponics system. Also considering filtering grey water from dishwasher & clothes washer for toilets & raised garden beds. I have access to several food grade used IBC totes and 50 gallon blue barrels.
jaykahle 2 years ago
NanaW 8 years ago
Phil_S 8 years ago
What do you mean by whole house water?
If you mean the potable water supplied by the water utility, then obviously not. For starters, the utility water is going to be at pressure (4 bar where I live) and this is not a pressure vessel - then for effective filtration (shouldn't really be necessary if you are talking about particles), you need to filter to micron levels.
If you have utility water that would benefit from this sort of treatment, you have a supply problem.
You could use it for utlity water, but not at pressure (a thin-walled plastic drum would pop sooner or later), then you have the problem of repressurising.
Sand filters for potable water filtration are huge pressure vessels (I used to work with them). I use a whole house potable water filter about 30-cm high, 10-cm diameter which takes the pressure and the activated carbon sediment filter takes out grit etc., plus organics, but leaves the vital calcium minerals.
If you are off-mains and use a borehole or surface water, it might work for non-potable use i.e. washing etc., but you still need to get the filtered water up to a usable pressure.
It all depends on what you are using the water for in the end.
hazelmist50 3 years ago
I sure hope you stil read this post.
pgs070947 3 years ago
Firstly, I think you are putting your health at risk. If you have that much sediment in your plumbing system to cause blockages, then that sediment can carry bacteria etc. or provide a breeding ground.
You need to get the raw water checked to see if it is even suitable to use - you know nothing about it's chemistry etc. until then.
The clarity or turbidity of the raw water is a key parameter, the clearer the better.
High incoming solids will wreck filters and everything else.
I'm afraid I don't even know what or where PNW is, so can't really comment.
I'm in the UK and use chalk borehole water from the water utility. Now and again, someone digs up the road and mud gets in the supply system. BAD practice.
I use a standard filter like this BWT High Capacity Water Filter Kit | Water Filters | Screwfix.com.
It takes a sediment filter or an activated carbon filter, both are replaced annually.
There are sintered filters that can be cleaned in situ by back-flushing. I devised a system that used compressed air. Many commercial (utility) systems use compressed air to clean sand filters.
As for your clogged pipes and appliances, all you can do is clean them individually.
If the sediment has calcified (hard calcium rich water), then acid will be needed.
For pipework, if back-flushing doesn't work, plumbers sometimes use a hammer drill with a rubber hammer bit to vibrate the pipes while back-flushing.
If you look at the one star reviews of the system in your link, you will see that most relate to filter blockages.
For starters, I would look at your pumping system to make sure that it isn't stirring up muck in the first place. Relocating or siting it in a submerged drum might help.
Good luck
hazelmist50 3 years ago
The research on the whole house systems is from here: 13 Best Whole House Water Filters - (Reviews & Guide 2020) (waterfiltermag.com), that's were my recent info came from. I got some help (when my pump burnt out recently) and he put in a (new to me, but used) pump on the ground, (my old one was in the spring). He placed the foot valve at the bottom of the spring, and that's where the issues mainly began, I think.
I have temporary pulled it up and it is off the bottom of the spring, not touching the dirt. The spring has been used since the 1950s, just not completely developed, and it comes straight up out of the ground. I completely understand about the testing, and have considered the barrel idea as well. I have also considered driving a fence post straight into the spring (the spring ground is clay) and attaching the foot valve to that, lifting it off the ground.
My other consideration was using pneumatic air, to try and clean out the inside house issues as well. I just replaced all the plumbing with pex, and all of the non fauceted outlets, hose out side etc. work fine. I recently found out that the cabin was built (rough sawn cedar) in the 1930s, funny, that the county lists it as mid 1950s. I only know because I recently met a person, who lived here in the 1930s for about 10 years.
I am limited with resources and strength (mature female), and have had a lot of other interesting learning curves, (some quite unexpected), that keep me more than busy, fixing and repairing many things here. It was the only place I could afford to buy, and yet quite an adventure.
I still plan of using your info for a three barrel filtration system for my house as well, in the near future.
Thank you for your wealth of information and your promptness!
Phil_S 3 years ago
It looks as though I used another Instructables profile to answer you.
Yes, funny enough, there is a Dutch company called PNW who deal with water supply.
Your faucets are taps here.
Where I live, the geology is solid chalk. The utility just digs or bores a well or borehole deep enough, maybe 200 feet until they reach the water table or saturated chalk. They then dig horizontally like a coal mine to provide more collection capacity - these are called addits.
They drop a submersible pump into the water and that's it. The water is naturally crystal clear, usually free of microorganisms, but chlorine is added as a precaution. It goes straight into distribution. Unfortunately of late, contaminants like nitrates have got into the water from over-pumping and fertilizer application, so these have to be removed. You could say that the water is polluted.
You mention a foot valve. Is your pump on the surface or is it submerged in the water? Almost certainly there will be sediment and the pump action could be pulling in more when it starts up.
Do you use the pump to pressurise your system or do you have tank in the roof?
Take care with pump driven systems not to exceed the pipework allowable pressures.
If you can clean up the raw water so as to reduce the sediment getting in, the rest of the system will have a chance of working.
For information, the activated carbon and sediment filters I use, have next to no effect on the flow or pressure at any of the outlets. The incoming pressure is about 4-bar or 56 psi..
Another thing I would try, I do it here, is to collect as much rainwater as possible, store it in a roof tank using a pump, and that gets used for the toilets, clothes washing and personal washing. It is sterilized, free, and takes a big load off the utility supply.
Good luck with your project, but do take care with the health stuff. I would use bottled water until I had a laboratory potable water analysis, particularly if you are off grid for waste water as well.
hazelmist50 3 years ago
pgs070947 3 years ago
A submersible pump is a better solution as it does not need priming.
Both types of pump need some protection to make sure they don't run dry.
hazelmist50 3 years ago
atomicjoe23 6 years ago
Could you explain how the vortex clarifier works. . .in specifics?
I.e., what generates the vortex?
Phil_S 3 years ago
The flow comes into a cone shaped vessel parallel to the surface and creates a rotating column of liquid, like a waterspout, whirlwind or Dyson vacuum cleaner.
The cone shape forces the solids to the bottom for removal.
JenniferS17 3 years ago
KROKKENOSTER 8 years ago
I think that this is a MUST if you have room for it.. Here in South Africa it is a must
Chipper Bert 8 years ago
But hey, in the drought we're in (and even thereafter) "it's going to be easier to ask forgiveness than get permission"
WaterWorksLife 8 years ago
Slow sand filtration is used around the world in small to large scale installations. For drinking water applications, it's only a step in the whole process. A final sterilization step is needed to kill off biota that cause waterborne illness.
Chipper Bert 8 years ago
http://iaspub.epa.gov/tdb/pages/treatment/treatmentOverview.do?treatmentProcessId=-1306063973
SSF's were used as far back as the mid 1400's and have been credited with being the single biggest health improvement factor in the European cities which used them (my post graduate studies in water treatment happened a long long time ago so I forget the reference :-! ). Very probably, how they provided their microbiological benefits was not realised at the time, but they worked wonders...
One of their biggest problems is the space SSF's need to be effective. As can be calculated from the SOR's above, they would need about 30 x the surface area - and another 30 x for use when the time came for cleaning the first set. Not good for a backyard setup...
There are all sorts of other problems with SSF's and I don't want to set myself up as any sort of expert (besides being long-windedly off-topic) but I'm a bit passionate about water supply and I do think terminology is important. I would not want someone expecting the benefits of SSF's as set out in the EPA reference to install this system and be disappointed. As someone else has commented, a post filtration disinfection system should be added if you are going to put the water in your Scotch...