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  • DIY Automatic Alcohol Dispenser (No Arduino Needed)

    A foot switch would work just as well.Rescue a washing machine pressure switch or just adapt a microswitch.As others have said, I would be a little wary of mixing a flammable solvent with even a small electric motor of brush design.Even 70% alcohol is going to be over-proof.

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  • You Can Use a Drill Bit for More Than Drilling Holes!

    Getting a set of tools together takes a long time, but don't be tempted to go for cheap.Cheap power tools can be downright dangerous or will do a rotten job.I don't know what you mean by big or huge PVC pipes, but for anything up to 4", I use a picture framing saw that will cut to any angle and nicely true. If you need something to grip it, oil filter pliers are good, as are chain wrenches (these hold pipes up 2 feet or more diameter). For domestic waste pipes 1 1/4" or 2", the picture saw works a treat and you can make a frame for the finished project.

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  • pgs070947 commented on QuintBUILDs's instructable Rain Power Generator
    Rain Power Generator

    Nice project, nice explanations, nice video.The turbine probably needs some improvements like enclosing it to make surethat the water gets away cleanly.The coils remind me of hard drive head coils, same shape, efficiently wound andstuck together.The spent water needs to be put to some use as well. I use rainwater foreverything apart from drinking.As well as batteries and capacitors to store the generated electrical energy,how about increasing the high level water storage?One problem I get here is the rubbish that comes off concrete tiles - lichen,moss and plenty of sand from the tiles. I filter this with a kitchen strainerand a nylon jam strainer bag.There's something satisfying in getting something for free, provided you ignorethe costs of collection etc.What you are getting here is the …

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    Nice project, nice explanations, nice video.The turbine probably needs some improvements like enclosing it to make surethat the water gets away cleanly.The coils remind me of hard drive head coils, same shape, efficiently wound andstuck together.The spent water needs to be put to some use as well. I use rainwater foreverything apart from drinking.As well as batteries and capacitors to store the generated electrical energy,how about increasing the high level water storage?One problem I get here is the rubbish that comes off concrete tiles - lichen,moss and plenty of sand from the tiles. I filter this with a kitchen strainerand a nylon jam strainer bag.There's something satisfying in getting something for free, provided you ignorethe costs of collection etc.What you are getting here is the potential and kinetic energy provided by theSun when it evaporates surface water to form clouds

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  • Low Cost Wireless Sensor Network on 433MHz Band

    https://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/digi-international/XB3-24Z8UM/602-2131-ND/7688712

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  • Pencil Eraser Popsicle Plane

    Great stuff.Spent many hours as kid doing these gliders and everything else.Great alternative to looking at screens all day long

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  • Low Cost DIY CNC Router

    Great project and takes a lot more expertise than shown in the description etc.You must be really pleased with the results. Makita make some lovely tools and the Japanese made ones are exceptionally high quality.The use of chains is no worse than any other transmission system and should last a long time.Don't you just love stepper motors? One of man's best inventions - builds your vehicle and repairs your heart valves. A fine example of tools (hardware and software) making tools. Makers have never had it so good. CNC used to be the preserve of massive robotic arms on assembly lines or factory machines from the likes of Cincinnati.One minor IT issue. Opening in Internet Explorer comes up with text only, no images. Opening in Firefox, no problem

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  • Makin' Bacon - a Guide to Cold Smoking Bacon

    @brnweddingYou might have done yourself a favour.If you can taste saltiness to that extent, then it's not a good idea to be consuming the end product.I would be worried about consuming nitrates at any level above advised health authority recommendations. In the UK and widely elsewhere, nitrates and nitrites are limited to parts per million in drinking water. At that level, you could not taste it, yet it is still considered harmful. If you then throw in the raised sodium level, you have a double whammy.The author does say to rinse the cured product, but if it has been soaked in very high concentrations of salts (sodium chloride or sodium nitrate - salt is strictly a class of chemicals, but loosely used to describe sodium chloride - calcium chloride is a salt for example) then it will have …

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    @brnweddingYou might have done yourself a favour.If you can taste saltiness to that extent, then it's not a good idea to be consuming the end product.I would be worried about consuming nitrates at any level above advised health authority recommendations. In the UK and widely elsewhere, nitrates and nitrites are limited to parts per million in drinking water. At that level, you could not taste it, yet it is still considered harmful. If you then throw in the raised sodium level, you have a double whammy.The author does say to rinse the cured product, but if it has been soaked in very high concentrations of salts (sodium chloride or sodium nitrate - salt is strictly a class of chemicals, but loosely used to describe sodium chloride - calcium chloride is a salt for example) then it will have penetrated deep into the tissues and will be very difficult to get down to safe levels.I saw a comment somewhere about celery containing nitrates without any supporting evidence, as iif to justify using nitrates. Certainly, if you analyse to low enough levels, you can find anything. Pure water is almost impossible to produce. Deionisation, reverse osmosis, distillation all leave traces of elements and molecules. Gases like carbon dioxide are absorbed, glass and stainless steel will slowly contaminate the water. I would rather eat a plateful of celery than one rasher of salt cured bacn.

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  • Solderless Electrical Connector

    Yes, agreed. Wago cage clamp blocks have made terinations a lot easier. They are kinder on the conductors and beging spring loaded, automatically adjust for and spreading. I use them a lot for low voltage prototyping. Not at all expensive compared to rough and ready screwdown terminals.

    This type of termination/joining is as basic as it gets.I installed a lot of critical wiring and any connection device that involved the end of a screw rotating down directly onto bare stranded or solid copper wiring was a no-no. It's like drilling the wire with a blunt drill bit. Slightly better is the domed, smooth end of a urea junction box screw that spreads the strands or traps a solid wire against a concave surface.For critical installations, rising clamp terminals where there is no rotational force involved were the only ones used. These are often used on DIN rails. Stranded cable would always have a crimped ferrule designed for the terminal, Whatever method is used, regular inspection and checking tightness is required as copper conductors have a habit of settling over time. With…

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    This type of termination/joining is as basic as it gets.I installed a lot of critical wiring and any connection device that involved the end of a screw rotating down directly onto bare stranded or solid copper wiring was a no-no. It's like drilling the wire with a blunt drill bit. Slightly better is the domed, smooth end of a urea junction box screw that spreads the strands or traps a solid wire against a concave surface.For critical installations, rising clamp terminals where there is no rotational force involved were the only ones used. These are often used on DIN rails. Stranded cable would always have a crimped ferrule designed for the terminal, Whatever method is used, regular inspection and checking tightness is required as copper conductors have a habit of settling over time. Without a clamp, stranded wire will "escape" past the screw and increase the resistance, leading to over-heating. Bad terminations or joining probably causes a lot of fires.

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  • Aquarium Auto Lighting System

    Nice project and ideal use of Atmega 328.For real beginners, you might need a bit more information on loading a bootloader onto a raw 328 chip, then uploading the code. (Nick) Gammon.au has a load of information on burning the bootloader and uploading code. A shield PCB for a Uno or Nano could be an easier route for some. The DS1307 isn't a great RTC for long-term timekeeping. The DS3231TCX is better, but still drifts. An OLED or LCD display of time and date would help. TimeLib and TimeAlarms libraries are useful for scheduling events and can take the time from the RTC.Fish look happy.

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  • Personal Lightning Detector

    Very timely as several people were killed by lightning in Poland a few days ago. On the summit of a mountain, metal cross on top, metal handrails.A medium wave radio tuned to nothing also gives good indication. I have a healthy respect for lightning. At about 10,000 volts per cm air gap, you do not want to be the ground terminal.

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  • Nice project and useful.The "frame" is a bit unusual and normally only seen in full size equipment like portable generators and compressors. I've seen compressors where the frame is use to store the compressed air. Clear acrylic is also possible or even Lego Technical.For stuff like brass rod and sections, look at model-making supplies, typically railways.Well done and thanks for publishing

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  • My father was a tradaitional upholsterer by trade and I learnt from him.Staples were never used. He would grab a handful of tacks and store them in his mouth, then feed them one at a time to a magnetic hammer.I covered loose seats for pocket money. A loose seat has a frame, webbing, calico or scrim or hessian, stuffing and a cover.The key tool was the webbing stretcher, either pliers looking like a hammerhead shark, or a flat piece of timber with a slot to lever the webbing tight.The stuffing was horsehair and he had a fearsome machine called a carding machine that you fed with horsehair mattresses and stuffing came out the other end.The difference was that he worked with centuries old furniture where only traditional methods and materials were appropriate.However, your demonstration sho…

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    My father was a tradaitional upholsterer by trade and I learnt from him.Staples were never used. He would grab a handful of tacks and store them in his mouth, then feed them one at a time to a magnetic hammer.I covered loose seats for pocket money. A loose seat has a frame, webbing, calico or scrim or hessian, stuffing and a cover.The key tool was the webbing stretcher, either pliers looking like a hammerhead shark, or a flat piece of timber with a slot to lever the webbing tight.The stuffing was horsehair and he had a fearsome machine called a carding machine that you fed with horsehair mattresses and stuffing came out the other end.The difference was that he worked with centuries old furniture where only traditional methods and materials were appropriate.However, your demonstration shows nicely that with care, it's not so difficult to fix your own chairs.

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  • Yes, but I bet that writing all the software and hours spent thinking about it must have added up, for what is essentially, a one-off. But I do the same, writing long formulas in Excel to do something that I could have done manually a lot quicker. The payback comes when you have a hundred to do.

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  • As others have said, having access to a stream is fortunate, but the Environment Agency in UK might take a dim view of water abstraction. Maybe you have more summer rainfall than here in water stressed Southeast England, but even if very small, water abstraction does require a licence, for obvious reasons. You might argue that you are returning the water, but very little will return to the stream. You might do better to increase your storage and take advantage of winter rainfall. Here, the main rivers are tidal and saline, and any freshwater feeder streams would almost certainly have licensed waste water effluents in them and in summer, the waste water makes up most of the flow. So, inventive project, but with reservations.

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  • pgs070947 commented on 陳亮's instructable Portable WiFi Analyzer

    Great project.I'm beginning to like ESP8266 almost as much as I like TicTacs, especially when empty.Great storage for electronic components. Unfortunately, I have to steer clear of sugar now, but Mighty Mints are just as good and sugar-free.

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  • Some of the lovliest furniture has been bent-wood. Real classics from G-Plan and Bauhaus have been in bent ply. Many utilitarian chairs have had totally bent-wood frames, simply because it avoids costly and weak joints.

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  • pgs070947 commented on bennelson's instructable DIY Solar Garage

    Great project and write-up.I need to have a good read.A couple of comments.I live on the edge of a UK National Park. Sounds nice but comes with heavyweight planning restrictions.The barmiest is the one that says no PV or hot water panels on the side of the house facing the Park. That's my south side. The piece of park I face is a strip of grass 20-metres wide.The key bit is the fact that I abut the park - the house behind can do what they like.So 20-metres of park comes before using renewables - stark raving mad.The other comment is roof wiring and inverters.There was a local roof fire here a couple of years ago where a faulty inverter took out the owner's roof plus the roof of the neighbour's house (semi-detached).Inverters have a hard job to do a bit like computer Uninterruptible suppli…

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    Great project and write-up.I need to have a good read.A couple of comments.I live on the edge of a UK National Park. Sounds nice but comes with heavyweight planning restrictions.The barmiest is the one that says no PV or hot water panels on the side of the house facing the Park. That's my south side. The piece of park I face is a strip of grass 20-metres wide.The key bit is the fact that I abut the park - the house behind can do what they like.So 20-metres of park comes before using renewables - stark raving mad.The other comment is roof wiring and inverters.There was a local roof fire here a couple of years ago where a faulty inverter took out the owner's roof plus the roof of the neighbour's house (semi-detached).Inverters have a hard job to do a bit like computer Uninterruptible supplies. I've had one of those fail for no real reason. My advice would be size up wiring to overkill, use decent terminations (fire-proof ceramic blocks), keep wiring in steel channels and set up heat monitoring on everything out of sight - that might mean some infrared cameras, but a lot cheaper than being forced out of your property.

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  • Save some aggravation by maintaining it.This is a delicate mechanism, that needs looking after.Whenever you get the first signs of less than perfect action, get the WD40 out, a drop or two and gently run the zip up and down. Repeat on a regular basis.

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  • It's a lot easier in metric. Half of one metre is 0.5-metre, half of one yard in feet and inches?Most straight pipe/tube available off the shelf is 3-metres. Why? I don't know. Maybe because it's a handy van/roofrack length. Almost all UK plumbing supplies are metric, give or take the odd BSP etc. Rainwater goods can be longer. Again probably comes down to van size.Same with boards. Some are still 8' x 4', most are 2.4 x 1.2 metres.Daft thing is roads are miles and speeds are MPH. Changing those was a step too far. Milk is in litres, but beer in litres, no way.

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  • Depends on the grade of PVC.Plumbing grade PVC is not specified for external use unless UV protected. ABS is generally used in external applications.I have used PVC waste pipe on rainwater tank projects and you will get some surface crazing, but that is in the 15 to 20 year usageHowever, a lot of PVC is used in the replacement window business as well as the "roofline" products like soffits and bargeboards, so presumably has some built in UV protectiuon. Rainwater goods are in PVC, and other than fading, seem to last well. Going brittle is a long-term problem. Very few plastics do well when exposed to UV long-term and even polycarbonate starts to discolour with time

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  • The YouTube comment is partly correct.PVC or ABS "cements" act by softening the surface by solvent action - that's why it's called a solvent weld. A common mistake is to call it melting - melting takes heat, this is dissolving. Solvents like MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) or the powerful ones like dichloromethane can be used on their own to soften the surface, but the "cements" have some PVC or ABS already dissolved in them. A solvent weld is inherently stronger than an adhesive like cyanoacrylic as it actually merges the surfaces.PVC waste pipe is generally considered to be an "inside" product unless specially UV inhibited. ABS is used for "outside" pipework. PVC will last for years if painted with something to block UV.Anyhow, a great use for all those…

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    The YouTube comment is partly correct.PVC or ABS "cements" act by softening the surface by solvent action - that's why it's called a solvent weld. A common mistake is to call it melting - melting takes heat, this is dissolving. Solvents like MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) or the powerful ones like dichloromethane can be used on their own to soften the surface, but the "cements" have some PVC or ABS already dissolved in them. A solvent weld is inherently stronger than an adhesive like cyanoacrylic as it actually merges the surfaces.PVC waste pipe is generally considered to be an "inside" product unless specially UV inhibited. ABS is used for "outside" pipework. PVC will last for years if painted with something to block UV.Anyhow, a great use for all those off-cuts.If not mentioned before, do take great care cutting thin-walled pipe. One snagged blade and all hell lets loose.

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  • Interesting. Whenever I see bars of metal sticking out of drill press chucks or whatever, I get nervous, like forgetting to remove the chuck key.I did a lot of prototyping professionally and the drill press was an essential part of kit.I also had a lot of panel tapping to do, so added a tapping device called a Tapmatic. You simply fitted the tap and slowly and carefully lowered the tap into the hole. A clever clutch mechanism ensured that it was a safe business. However, there was a point in the operation where it was necessary to stop the rotation and despite the clutch, doing it manually always seemed risky.In the end, I added a metal bar that would swing round, catch the pillar, and the Tapmatic did the rest.I still use the drill press to tap holes, but strictly with no power applied a…

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    Interesting. Whenever I see bars of metal sticking out of drill press chucks or whatever, I get nervous, like forgetting to remove the chuck key.I did a lot of prototyping professionally and the drill press was an essential part of kit.I also had a lot of panel tapping to do, so added a tapping device called a Tapmatic. You simply fitted the tap and slowly and carefully lowered the tap into the hole. A clever clutch mechanism ensured that it was a safe business. However, there was a point in the operation where it was necessary to stop the rotation and despite the clutch, doing it manually always seemed risky.In the end, I added a metal bar that would swing round, catch the pillar, and the Tapmatic did the rest.I still use the drill press to tap holes, but strictly with no power applied and simply rotate the chuck while lowering the tap.I must admit, I didn't read all the way through, but having seen some nasty injuries involving rotating machinery, I trust you have checked it all out. If so, a worthwhile project

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  • Donkey's years old. The other one was a bull roarer or perhaps the folded brown paper and cardboard thunderclap. Better than all the plastic rubbish.

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  • pgs070947 commented on Trevor_DIY's instructable Betta Fish Feeder

    Nice project and useful for lots of other thingsBut.... poor fish. I hope that isn't his home for life. If it wasn't neurotic before, it soon will be with all that surveillance going on.

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  • Going back quite a few years, I used to like the smell of bubble solution.In a laboratory I worked in, we analysed detergents in water. One of them was Lissapol-N which was one of the early non-ionic detergents.The smell of Lissapol was the nearest I got to the original bubble solution smell.While searching for Lissapol, I was amazed at just how many there are now and the uses for them.

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  • Nice, comprehensive project.You say thay N/C reed switches aren't available. They are, but you nedd to buy a reed switch with changeover contacts. I bought some recently from RS or Farnell to allow me to take the power off a sealed battery powered wireless device

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  • pgs070947 commented on taifur's instructable $3 Smart Bulb Holder

    Useful project. Does your lamp still operate when you or someone else doesn't have their phone? Why the mix of bayonet and screw fittings? A couple of safety issues. You ought to incorporate a fuse in the mains power circuit and the other is the use of ES fittings. The polarity on BC fittings doesn't matter - you can insert them either way round, but it does matter with ES fittings. The live connection must always go to the centre pin and the neutral connection to the screwed holder. As it is possible to touch the screwed part of the holder, you could get a lethal shock. All mains wiring and terminals etc. must have at least 3-mm clearance between each other and any other parts of the circuit. I might add an LED indicator for testing or fault finding, with or without a lamp fitted.

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  • Tip 1 - Don't use a lighter on your heatshrink. Use a hot air gun (electrical or catalytic gas) for a much better result. You run the risk of uneven shrinking or burning.Tip 2 - Adhesive-lined heatshrink will seal things much better.Tip 3 - Use a cable gland where your cable enters the container. A small PG or metric gland rated IP68 will make a good seal. You can get them to seal oval cables as well.Tip 4 - Find a better way to seal the tube to the pump. Maybe use a rubber bung or build up the diameter ot the pump outlet with soft tubing.Someone else commented about the bubbles - all that means is that somewhere, air is being drawn into the pump. A likely place is where the returned water tumbles down over pebbles. Try calming the turbulence by putting the pump in something like a plant …

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    Tip 1 - Don't use a lighter on your heatshrink. Use a hot air gun (electrical or catalytic gas) for a much better result. You run the risk of uneven shrinking or burning.Tip 2 - Adhesive-lined heatshrink will seal things much better.Tip 3 - Use a cable gland where your cable enters the container. A small PG or metric gland rated IP68 will make a good seal. You can get them to seal oval cables as well.Tip 4 - Find a better way to seal the tube to the pump. Maybe use a rubber bung or build up the diameter ot the pump outlet with soft tubing.Someone else commented about the bubbles - all that means is that somewhere, air is being drawn into the pump. A likely place is where the returned water tumbles down over pebbles. Try calming the turbulence by putting the pump in something like a plant pot or having a greater depth of water

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  • Yes safety first.I saw somewhere that a spindle molder was the most feared workshop machine.Even a router can do some serious damage if it decides to dig into the grain.

    I think the early machines had a reputation for sending out cutters like schrapnel. The more modern heads with decent fixings have largely eliminated that, but I don't like any form of hand feeding and that includes electric drills. A collegue of mine had a hole cutter in a hand held 240-V AC drill when the hole saw snatched and dug in. The drill carried on turning while the mains cable wrapped itself around his arm. The only thing that stopped it was when the cable snapped. That was over 30-years ago and still haunts me.

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  • pgs070947 commented on CobyUnger's instructable Bike Rack From Bikes

    Looks good.Someone in my town has used the wheels (no tyres) to make some garden gates. Better than having a number on the door - just say "look out for the bike wheel"

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  • Looks good.Can you still turn the pedals? (For gear adjustments etc.)

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  • Ouch. I liked my record players and I certainly wasn't a small child. So what is the round thing in a record player that goes round and round and you put the vinyl record on? Turntable is the slighty snobby term from the HiFi folk who like lots of expensive boxes instead of the one box.

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  • Just found this.Very nice project.I like and use the HCPL3700 (prefer HCPL3760 for greater sensitivity) a lot.It provides a nice, safe way to interface mains powered or AC circuits to logic level.I recently used one to make a device to switch LED domestic lights with a "no neutral" time switch. The timeswitch worked fine with old filament lamps, but LEDs did not pass enough current to power the switch (or their load type is too complex). By adding a relay, I can now switch any load, wattage or type. The active low output of the HCPL is a bit of a pain, but a P-channel MOSFET worked a treat.Interestingly, I was going to interface my central heating system using HCPLs in place of relays.The RPi and graphing is a real bonus.

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  • Technics and Pioneer produced a lot of stuff when "HiFi" and vinyl ruled.Thanks to the interest in vinyl at the moment, these old decks, or the ones that weren't binned, are also of interest. Direct drive would have been considered quite up-market as most decks were belt drive. It might be nice to add an LED strobe light and drive it with an Arduino or something. I think some of the decks relied on the 50-Hz flicker from fluorescent tubes, but it would be easy now with an Arduino and the mains power frequency to get accurate strobing. The downside of vinyl has always been the pops and interference caused by dust or surface damage.

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  • pgs070947 commented on peterbrazil's instructable Rat Rod Mower Kart

    Mad Max, like it

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  • Wow -master of the third dimension.Even the Instructable is a work of art.Thanks for sharing all that hard work

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  • I'm puzzled by this setup.I collect rainwater on a largish scale, so much so that the mains water supplier (utility) thinks I fiddle the meter. The only thing I don't do with it is drink it.Where did your rainwater run to before? Was it to a soakaway or just over the ground? In UK, it is illegal to connect surface water to foul sewers so that just leaves soakaways. Letting it run away uncontrolled is a bad idea.Sometimes people use rainwater diverters that fit in the downpipe. These might work if you have a slate or metal roof with very little debris, but if you have concrete tiles, the moss, lichen and sand that comes off these tiles will soon block a diverter.If I want clean rainwater, I have a small gravel and fishpond prefilter between the downpipe and the storage tanks. Any overflow …

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    I'm puzzled by this setup.I collect rainwater on a largish scale, so much so that the mains water supplier (utility) thinks I fiddle the meter. The only thing I don't do with it is drink it.Where did your rainwater run to before? Was it to a soakaway or just over the ground? In UK, it is illegal to connect surface water to foul sewers so that just leaves soakaways. Letting it run away uncontrolled is a bad idea.Sometimes people use rainwater diverters that fit in the downpipe. These might work if you have a slate or metal roof with very little debris, but if you have concrete tiles, the moss, lichen and sand that comes off these tiles will soon block a diverter.If I want clean rainwater, I have a small gravel and fishpond prefilter between the downpipe and the storage tanks. Any overflow goes back down the remaining connection to the soakaway, but only after filtering. If you let all the debris go to the soakaway, you will soon be in trouble with blockages.If I just want water for plants, then all the downpipe water (no diverters) goes into the tank. The tank has a PVC 38-mm tank connector and waste pipe that connects to the original soakaway.In the wastewater business, which I was, there was a lot of floating debris which couldn't go down any overflows. The solution is easy. Instead of just a plain tank connector at the overflow level, there was an open "T" in whatever size pipework - imagine a T rotated through 90 degrees - the original vertical goes to the tank connector and the horizontal has one opening above the water level and the other below - all water going to overflow is drawn from below the surface. The tank now acts just like a giant gully pot. It gets cleaned once a year which is a lot easier than digging out a blocked soakaway.So far, since collecting rainwater, I have saved over 100-tonnes of scarce drinking water.Rainwater is great for any washing, soft water, and why use drinking water to flush the lavvy?

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  • Yes. Entirely agree about the statement. Bodgers use nails, engineers use screws.When I build, I'm the one who might have to fix it one day, so no nails.

    A lot of work for what should be a straightforward exercise.The first 22" monitor I bought was a Samsung and it was very disappointing to find that for one of the biggest manufacturers of TVs and monitors, it had no VESA mounts (won't buy again) - LG do them as standard.I did toy with the idea of just making up a plate in metal or plastic and simply tap the four M4 holes for a mount. There are some pretty good double-sided tapes around like 3M (Scotch) VM Command. Alternatively, it should be possible to find a decent adhesive from the Loctite range for plastics.In the end, I opted for a simple bookstand arrangement in wood with a couple of wing nuts to adjust the viewing angle. If you were feeling brave, you could open the monitor up and see if there was space on the other side of th…

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    A lot of work for what should be a straightforward exercise.The first 22" monitor I bought was a Samsung and it was very disappointing to find that for one of the biggest manufacturers of TVs and monitors, it had no VESA mounts (won't buy again) - LG do them as standard.I did toy with the idea of just making up a plate in metal or plastic and simply tap the four M4 holes for a mount. There are some pretty good double-sided tapes around like 3M (Scotch) VM Command. Alternatively, it should be possible to find a decent adhesive from the Loctite range for plastics.In the end, I opted for a simple bookstand arrangement in wood with a couple of wing nuts to adjust the viewing angle. If you were feeling brave, you could open the monitor up and see if there was space on the other side of the case to fit a captive nut (clinch nut)For what it's worth, the Samsung TV I bought had a VESA mount, but they don't bother tapping the holes. Instead, they supply thread cutting screws (trilobar thread). No amount of pressure was going to get them into steel, so I simply tapped the holes. Another reason not to buy Samsung. What other people do I don't know. Most would not recognise a thread cutting screw, let alone have a decent screwdriver to avoid destroying the head.However, a thorough exercise in engineering to achieve the end result.

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  • I've got UPSs dotted all around the place to keep the critical stuff going after one of our frequent power outages. In fact I've just added one to my router and phone equipment, albeit a 1100-W commercial unit knocking out 240-VAV. Another guy has one on his heating system.Commercial units aren't all they are cracked up to be. One APC unit simply blew up and defeated the object and a second Salicru unit didn't work out of the box. I did fix the Salicru, but both manufacturers use pretty cheap components working close to tolerances. Most of the time you don't need all the fancy communication stuff, and better to spend money on better components and do your own thing. Interestingly, all the commercial units use lead acid cells, maybe for safety.

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  • pgs070947 commented on diymontreal's instructable Trapezoid Leg Bench

    Stability? Especially on the thick rug. Probably OK on the floorboards, though

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  • pgs070947 commented on Ham-made's instructable Paper Stud Finder

    I live in the UK where most drywallers loved their nails - cost less than screws.So apart from the damaged board, popped heads and doubts about any weight-carrying, I routinely hoick out the nails with a cat's paw nail puller and replace with screws. The magnets are cheap enough so that half a dozen give you a nice line down the stud. Screws are a lot kinder on the board and no worries about fixing cupboards etc.Surprising how easysome of the nails come out. Beware at joints in the board where two nails are often clouted in close to each other.

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  • Probaly too late.Very similar item already on sale on one of the "gadget" channels.However, 1/4" OD PE tube with a good wall thickness is going tolast a lot longer, plus you get a lifetime supply of tubing.Slightly off subject, I use the nylon version of the tubing for greenhouse watering.

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  • Ref the taking plants out of bedrooms and hospital wards, I'm quite certain that this is just a very old wives tale, but if my mother said it's what happened, them it must be true. It's as plausible as sanatoriums for curing TB.I'm a retired environmental scientist and specialized in CO2 levels in the atmosphere. The current level of 400-ppm is certainly higher than the levels I encountered in 1972 of 320-ppm, but I would have no concerns about plants in reasonable numbers being in any room in a house. If there is any science behind it, then you would have to look at plant respiration and photosynthesis and possibly the ratio of oxygen to CO2 does change slightly in situations like intensive greenhouse horticulture. Given a certain amount of natural ventilation, there shouldn't be a probl…

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    Ref the taking plants out of bedrooms and hospital wards, I'm quite certain that this is just a very old wives tale, but if my mother said it's what happened, them it must be true. It's as plausible as sanatoriums for curing TB.I'm a retired environmental scientist and specialized in CO2 levels in the atmosphere. The current level of 400-ppm is certainly higher than the levels I encountered in 1972 of 320-ppm, but I would have no concerns about plants in reasonable numbers being in any room in a house. If there is any science behind it, then you would have to look at plant respiration and photosynthesis and possibly the ratio of oxygen to CO2 does change slightly in situations like intensive greenhouse horticulture. Given a certain amount of natural ventilation, there shouldn't be a problem. 400-ppm is 0.04%. The main problem with raised CO2 levels is that it reduces the oxygen (partial pressure), but it only becomes a problem when oxygen the "normal" level of 20.9% drops to something like 16%. Very high levels of CO2 cause asphyxiation and death, but are only encountered in special situations like wells and breweries. I don't think you have anything to worry about

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  • pgs070947 commented on charlesglorioso's instructable StreetWriter

    I too like the use of the fuel injectors - never would have thought of that.The nearest I got to that was to use the windscreen washer pump in a garden sprayer - tirned out to be the best sprayer I've never had to buy.Opens up all sorts of other uses in , say, cleaning parts, horticulture.The long-term challenge has to be in stpping the nozzle blocking. Lab suppliers like Whatman do small in-line disposable filters.All in all, a great project

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  • I like card models.Scale models of buildings that I've seen somewhere.Another favorite are the card models of railway buidings like Superquick.Amazing just how strong cardboard can be when used the way you have. Looks good enough to sail.

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  • What great tools pliers are, plus all the variants like snips, side-cutters, scissors?, Moles, pincers and so on. Like a surgeon about to operate. Same principal, mechanical advantage, pivot, long arm, short arm and gravity to hang them with. I must use pliers every day for something or other.I like it.

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  • Could lead to some interesting night-time surprises.Creepy crawlies and the effects of over-watering.My mother, going back a bit, always used to say that plants were removed from bedrooms at night. This also applied to hospital wards where bunches of flowers were removed.If there is any scientific reason, it might be to do with plant respiration. In daylight, plant cells give out oxygen - good - in darkness, plants give out carbon dioxide - bad.Carbon dioxide is denser than air, so unless you have some good ventilation, you might get more than you bargained for.As a practical scientist, I have to say, I think the risk is small, but it's worth a mention. The odd worm might be more of a problem.

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  • Yes, even the professional ones are not reliable.Might be OK to say "watch out", but I still wouldn't rely on them - they give false positives and false negatives.A metal detector might be a better bet.

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  • Looks good.Stairs are pretty dangerous if not well lit and the older you get, the more likely you'll have a slip.Anything that saves messing about trying to find the light switch is a bonus.

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  • Nice use of acrylic.A perfect material when you need to illuminate from a remote lighting source.I think the Russians still use Nixie (Burroughs) tubes in their space capsules - not serious.Nixie tubes are a fine example of necessity being the Mother of Invention. Burroughs made calculators and primitive computers or tabulators which could work quite quickly but there was no numerical display to match. LEDs came along to provide matrices and things like alphanumeric displays, now OLEDs and LCDs are commonly available.The older methods are often more decorative in their own right. A classic example is the "flip" displays that used to be used in rail stations and airports. I think it was an Italian design and still preferred in design conscious settings. It amuses me to see LED ve…

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    Nice use of acrylic.A perfect material when you need to illuminate from a remote lighting source.I think the Russians still use Nixie (Burroughs) tubes in their space capsules - not serious.Nixie tubes are a fine example of necessity being the Mother of Invention. Burroughs made calculators and primitive computers or tabulators which could work quite quickly but there was no numerical display to match. LEDs came along to provide matrices and things like alphanumeric displays, now OLEDs and LCDs are commonly available.The older methods are often more decorative in their own right. A classic example is the "flip" displays that used to be used in rail stations and airports. I think it was an Italian design and still preferred in design conscious settings. It amuses me to see LED versions of old style filament lamps.

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  • pgs070947 commented on AdrienR's instructable Screw Sorting Machine

    Interesting.The sort of job I used to do on a sunny afternoon armed with a strip of aluminum with holes drilled in and scale down the side, plus plenty of empty coleslaw tubs.First sort by type e.g. machine or wood-screw etc, then sort by diameter, then sort by material, then sort by head, pan, cheese-head, Philips, Pozidrive, Torx, socket, slotted and so on.Then remember not to get in the mess in the first place - no chance. Food ingredient sorting machines are some of the smartest. They seem to rely on camera recognition and compressed air to sort.

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  • Nicely done and very thorough.Clocks lend themselves to all sorts of interpretation.

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  • All the plumbers I know are too tight to spend the extra on solder ring fittingsPlus, there is a bit of smugness that capillary fittings take a bit more skill and solder rings are a bit DIY.Personally, I think capillary fittings make for a better looking finished job and getting a slim joint with no dollops of excess solder is where tte real skill shows.

    Depends on which part of the planet you live.In UK, try Monument Autocut available from Screwfix. For £17, you get the 15-mm cutter and the handle (basically, a "C" spanner). Alternatively, try a strap wrench or pump pliers. Strictly speaking, you shouldn't really need a handle

    Well done for being brave enough to tackle a subject like this when everyone else has their favourite methods and tales of what might go wrong. I'm not sure what is meant by one of the comments talking about "stuffing" things into water systems. Any plumber or DIYer ought to know the importance of cleanliness. Sticking to the letter of the law, any new work should be flushed in any case. Flushing and adding corrosion inhibitors is often a condition fulfilling the warranty terms of things like boilers. Most cases of reported Legionella arise from poorly maintained storage tanks in commercial properties and not down to the original plumbing.Plastic systems have their place, but quite often a rigid joint is needed and in high heat situations, can't be used. Knowing the basic skills…

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    Well done for being brave enough to tackle a subject like this when everyone else has their favourite methods and tales of what might go wrong. I'm not sure what is meant by one of the comments talking about "stuffing" things into water systems. Any plumber or DIYer ought to know the importance of cleanliness. Sticking to the letter of the law, any new work should be flushed in any case. Flushing and adding corrosion inhibitors is often a condition fulfilling the warranty terms of things like boilers. Most cases of reported Legionella arise from poorly maintained storage tanks in commercial properties and not down to the original plumbing.Plastic systems have their place, but quite often a rigid joint is needed and in high heat situations, can't be used. Knowing the basic skills is essential.

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  • YummyMy sort of nosh.

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  • Comprehensive project.Attics/loft/roof-spaces are the forgotten areas in a house and I log temperatures there as well.Unventilated roof-spaces can turn into tropical forests if left neglected. A combination of humidity from the living areas, cold felt, can soon lead to trouble.In summer, I've recorded temperatures under the tiles of 60-degrees Celsius and even in winter, the tiles can get to 25-degrees on sunny days, providing a useful heat source.Of course it's useful to have a display.

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  • pgs070947 commented on DiggingFox's instructable Resistor Organizer

    Old idea I'm afraid.A lot of the suppliers throw in the stand for free.The only advantage of doing all the 3-D printing work is if you want your stand to fit a particular space.One of the problems with disposable plastic test tubes is there are too many changes of stock, material and design.I used to use some nice screw cap tubes with white writable caps, but seem to have gone the way of all good things.For really small component storage, look up micro centrifuge tubes.

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  • A couple of points.Compression joints are great provided everything, especially the pipe, is in good condition, no deep scratches, dents, out of round etc.If a potable water supply is leaking, and pipe sealant needs to be for potable use (applies to solders as well).I often use the thicker gas grade PTFE tape wound tightly in the same direction as the nut tightening direction to cover the olive/ferrule. Remember there are several points of contact between pipe, ferrule and fitting that need to be leak-free. The nice thing is that the tape is inert and clean.An experienced plumber friend of mine warned about sealant holding up a joint while cold, but failing when something like hot central heating water went through.What can help with compression fittings is pre-swaging. This is where you …

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    A couple of points.Compression joints are great provided everything, especially the pipe, is in good condition, no deep scratches, dents, out of round etc.If a potable water supply is leaking, and pipe sealant needs to be for potable use (applies to solders as well).I often use the thicker gas grade PTFE tape wound tightly in the same direction as the nut tightening direction to cover the olive/ferrule. Remember there are several points of contact between pipe, ferrule and fitting that need to be leak-free. The nice thing is that the tape is inert and clean.An experienced plumber friend of mine warned about sealant holding up a joint while cold, but failing when something like hot central heating water went through.What can help with compression fittings is pre-swaging. This is where you get the ferrule bedded down on the pipe before you add the sealant. One of the top makes of fittings called Swagelok, have a two part ferrule, use no sealant and use a gauge between nut and fitting body to ensure the correct torque. No sealant joints are important for high (300-bar) pressure gas e.g. oxygen, pipework.In an emergency, a pair of Mole grips can come in handy, especially with plastic pipe.I once put a fork through a shallow buried yellow PE gas pipe. The utility guys turned up, dug out a pair of large Moles with two round bars where the jaws are and simply squashed the pipe flat - garages use the same technique to seal off flexible hoses like brake or fuel lines.With all joints and repairs, don't forget the blue Kimwipes tissue to test for leaks - blue shows better than white and distiguishes between water and oily sealant.

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  • I agree with the labelling issue, but demented old people? Not very nice

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  • pgs070947 commented on Hans_Daniel's instructable Tube Audio Amplifier

    Ahh - the smell of dusty old valves and the anticipation of the Home Service.A lot of classy amplifiers had nice hardwood side panels in the days of popular HiFi and aluminium panels.The laminated auluminium sheet you don't know the name of sounds like rainshield cladding material they used in the Grenfell tower block that caught fire. It goes under several trade names none of which I can remember, but a quick search on Grenfell tower block rainshield cladding will throw up the supplier. It's probably easier to use than raw or anodised aluminium sheet. However, it doesn't like heat.

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  • A bit of a long shot, but maybe have a look at scientific glassware. I have used fused silica dishes in the past and some spectroscopy methods using UV will use cuvettes that are UV transparent. A diamond tile drill should be able to cut a small disk. Have you investigated all the main classes of plastics? The other thing that comes to mind are microscope slide cover slips which are very thin glass, albeit a bit fragile

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  • The 433 frequency is pretty crowded and most remote control systems will use some form of encoding/decoding either Keeloq or Manchester, possibly Holtek. I have agree with other comments about the choice of PIC, but interestingly, some commercial encoder/decoder chips are based on PIC. These chips are cheap enough to make it economical to use them, but for Arduino users, Nick Gammon has written some Manchester code and there is a Manchester library as well. Keeloq is a Microchip proprietary system and might be heavy going for anyone who just wants a couple of on/off channels.

    There are a few systems around, but the only ones I've seen have been based on Xbee modules. A little pricey, but you do get a useful number of digitals and analogue in/outs. Xbee will do this Instructable out of the box without additional MCUs

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  • I like it.I used to spend hours on these simple "chuck"/"stick" gliders as a kid - no screens to distract then.Your design has a lot of potential.

    I missed the significance of the magnets.What a great way to add the balance and adjust it.Brilliant design

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  • I like itA good bright light helps (and makes more safe) any operation like drilling and soldering - also would make a good microscope illuminator.I would have to agree that a transformer is not a great way to drive an LED, but it will work.For LEDs that need constant current, I use specific LED driver chips. Microchip do a 20-mA driver in a TO92 package called a CL20 or similar. They can take any input voltage up to 90-Volts

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  • I'll endorse the safety comments.These "decorative" finishes were popular for years, sometimes used decoratively, sometimes used to cover damaged or poorly constructed ceilings.If it is a sponge or tool applied finish, it would have been made up of a powder paste commonly known as Artex in the UK (the plant that made it is not far from where I live, and is in the centre of a small town).As far as I know, the powder contained asbestos up until about 1986, but that takes no account of old stock etc.. I also don't know which type of asbestos it was, i.e. white, brown or blue. White, the less damaging form was commonly used to strengthen cement and these finishes. Left alone, or painted etc., it is not likely to pose a risk.The only sure way is to have a small sample tested by an ac…

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    I'll endorse the safety comments.These "decorative" finishes were popular for years, sometimes used decoratively, sometimes used to cover damaged or poorly constructed ceilings.If it is a sponge or tool applied finish, it would have been made up of a powder paste commonly known as Artex in the UK (the plant that made it is not far from where I live, and is in the centre of a small town).As far as I know, the powder contained asbestos up until about 1986, but that takes no account of old stock etc.. I also don't know which type of asbestos it was, i.e. white, brown or blue. White, the less damaging form was commonly used to strengthen cement and these finishes. Left alone, or painted etc., it is not likely to pose a risk.The only sure way is to have a small sample tested by an accredited laboratory.If you must do it yourself, and I have, I would use a binding agent like PVA to keep it wet, and all clothing and dust sheets must be treated as contaminated. Many cancer sufferers were relatives of people who worked with asbestos (pity the people who mined the stuff) and washed overalls etc.Surprisingly, some local authority disposal sites will accept asbestos waste as long as it is double bagged.Unfortunately, asbestos cement was widely used for roofing, rainwater goods like gutters, fire-breaks, soffit boards etc. and is lurking in many older hoses.Personally, I think if you observe good hygiene and personal protective clothing and avoid creating dry waste, there is little risk, assuming it is the white variety.My approach if you are after a smooth finish would be to either apply a skim coat of new plaster, or better still, fit a new plasterboard ceiling with adhesive - I find the 9-mm board works quite well. But plasterboard is also getting a bad press now from the waste site operators. Plasterboard is gypsum (calcium sulphate) based, mined from the ground, but apparently, when put into anaerobic landfill sites, gives rise to toxic hydrogen sulphide - you can't win.

    I am careful and as Hons Chemist and PhD Environmental Scientis, I have a lot of respect for asbestos abnd all the other nasties I worked with including organo-chloine pestcides, benzene, Rhodamine-b, Americium 241 etc. Handling all this stuff is all down to proper procedure. I fully sympathise with your relative's exposure and disease caused by asbestos. Many innocent workers in boilermaking, shipyards, pipe-lagging, brake-pads etc were exposed to asbestos before manufacturers and workers and governments were aware of the problems. What is particularly nasty about asbestos is the long interval between exposure and symptoms. At the time, legislation was missing, manufacturers used what was available. Even now, glyphosate is being hammered. Glyphosate is safe if handled correctly and in fo…

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    I am careful and as Hons Chemist and PhD Environmental Scientis, I have a lot of respect for asbestos abnd all the other nasties I worked with including organo-chloine pestcides, benzene, Rhodamine-b, Americium 241 etc. Handling all this stuff is all down to proper procedure. I fully sympathise with your relative's exposure and disease caused by asbestos. Many innocent workers in boilermaking, shipyards, pipe-lagging, brake-pads etc were exposed to asbestos before manufacturers and workers and governments were aware of the problems. What is particularly nasty about asbestos is the long interval between exposure and symptoms. At the time, legislation was missing, manufacturers used what was available. Even now, glyphosate is being hammered. Glyphosate is safe if handled correctly and in food production is almost essential. The guys working in this Instructable are clearly taking a risk. It is a health and safety nightmare. Old properties and textured finishes should be setting off alarm bells, but if you don't do your homework first, you take your chances. What could be safer than stripping off old ceilings?

    Sounds pretty cheap.As far as I know, the accepted test involves examination under a microscope using polarised light

    I don't think so - it would probably end up looking worse. I guess you are after a flat finish. I would resurface with a skimming plaster or even remove the old board altoghether (with the safety provisos). Many professionals say it's easier and quicker to take the old board down

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  • In ventilation duct-work, self-adhesive aluminium tape is often used. It has a really strong adhesive backing and is particularly useful for molding round odd shapes. It is classed as Class 0 in the UK at least (i.e. fully conductive) and has caused some fatalities where it inadvertently comes into contact with a live conductor.I remember my mother having a fine chain mail purse (way before RFID) and high voltage linesmen use chain mail overalls for working on distribution systems. Meat processing workers also use chain mail for various items of protection against knives etc. The advantage of chain mail is that it's fully flexible

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  • Nice job.Try Osmo Polyx-oil for a finish on white oak etc. Gives a far more natural finish than varnish and is very hard wearing

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  • pgs070947 commented on jcbuchli's instructable Cedar Strip Kayak

    Does look really nice and worth hanging on the wall one day.You are lucky to have the workshop facilities, but more importantly, some decent waterways to use it on.

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  • If you are lucky enough to have single large space like a barn with some benches, shelving and a decent floor, organising a workshop is straightforward. If you are stuck with a garage and a bedroom or two, it's a lot more difficult.Hanging tools on loops of thin cord maximises hook usage. Magnets can hold loads of small tools. Test tubes (plastic) and TicTac cartons can hold small bits and pieces and tubs used for coleslaw etc. stack well and you can see the contents. Tin cans, plastic waste pipe can take nails and screws and long items. Even plastic guttering comes in useful for long rods etc. For temporary sorting, manilla money envelopes are handy. Take a look in the supermarket rubbish bins for molded transit cases etc.If the memory isn't too good, keep a note of where you last used t…

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    If you are lucky enough to have single large space like a barn with some benches, shelving and a decent floor, organising a workshop is straightforward. If you are stuck with a garage and a bedroom or two, it's a lot more difficult.Hanging tools on loops of thin cord maximises hook usage. Magnets can hold loads of small tools. Test tubes (plastic) and TicTac cartons can hold small bits and pieces and tubs used for coleslaw etc. stack well and you can see the contents. Tin cans, plastic waste pipe can take nails and screws and long items. Even plastic guttering comes in useful for long rods etc. For temporary sorting, manilla money envelopes are handy. Take a look in the supermarket rubbish bins for molded transit cases etc.If the memory isn't too good, keep a note of where you last used tools.

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  • It's just enamelled (polyurethane) insulated single conductor wire (sometimes called hookup wire)Any of the distributors do it (Farnell, RS etc) - got my last lot from RS part number 357-722, about 30 Standard Wire Gauge. Use it mainly for low frequency radio reception loop antenna. Don't bother stripping it, just solder with a hot tip - the enamel is designed to be soldered

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  • I like this a lot.I can see from the vehicles that you are UK based, but where you are looks a lot better off soil-wise from the solid chalk I live on.To get anything like growing soil, I used to have to sieve everything and was going to make an oscillating riddle, but I was also thinking along the lines of using a concrete mixer to mix compost.It's a cracking idea and must save a lot of backache.To miguipda, Belle mixers are widely available in UK and Europe and any of the big suppliers like Toolstation, Screwfix or Axminster Power Tools will list them as well as spare drums etc.

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  • I always like making use of wasted space and stairwells are one of the big wasters of space. I use part of the space as a service duct for ventilation pipework and the space under a winding staircase makes for a secure hidey-hole for valuables.I fear that in the UK at least, you might fall foul of Building Regulations. Stairways are your means of escape in the event of fire and this needs to be taken into account.The leaving drawers open would also worry me. Having taken a tumble down stairs and getting a broken pelvis as a reward has left its mark. I would want to see some mechanism in place such rthat the closed drawer state is the default - better runners and tilted back to self close would help. The thought of treading down onto an open drawer doesn't bear thinking about.By turning th…

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    I always like making use of wasted space and stairwells are one of the big wasters of space. I use part of the space as a service duct for ventilation pipework and the space under a winding staircase makes for a secure hidey-hole for valuables.I fear that in the UK at least, you might fall foul of Building Regulations. Stairways are your means of escape in the event of fire and this needs to be taken into account.The leaving drawers open would also worry me. Having taken a tumble down stairs and getting a broken pelvis as a reward has left its mark. I would want to see some mechanism in place such rthat the closed drawer state is the default - better runners and tilted back to self close would help. The thought of treading down onto an open drawer doesn't bear thinking about.By turning the riser, a structural component, into a non-structural component, you are severely weakening the treads. I would like to see how much bow you get in the treads with the drawers removed. Your treads need to be structurally sound with the drawers removed.Not trying to be picky, but all aspects of a design need to be thought through

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  • pgs070947 commented on mr_fid's instructable How to CUT GLASS.

    The key ingredients in cutting glass are confidence, a high quality TC wheel cutter, a dish of white spirit and speed. I have never had any luck with a diamond tipped cutter and these are only good for writing your name. Thoroughly clean the glass along the cut line. Dip the glass cutter into the white spirit. Start away from you, a short scribe to the furthest edge, then all the way back in one scribe. Speed is the essence. If it's a long cut on a work surface, pull the glass towards you so it overlaps the edge, hold either side of the scribe, lift and peel apart like opening a book. If that doesn't work, first blame the scribing, then put a nail or a barbeque skewer exactly under the scribe and push down either side. If that doesn't work, use a "V" notch tile plier/cutter at t…

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    The key ingredients in cutting glass are confidence, a high quality TC wheel cutter, a dish of white spirit and speed. I have never had any luck with a diamond tipped cutter and these are only good for writing your name. Thoroughly clean the glass along the cut line. Dip the glass cutter into the white spirit. Start away from you, a short scribe to the furthest edge, then all the way back in one scribe. Speed is the essence. If it's a long cut on a work surface, pull the glass towards you so it overlaps the edge, hold either side of the scribe, lift and peel apart like opening a book. If that doesn't work, first blame the scribing, then put a nail or a barbeque skewer exactly under the scribe and push down either side. If that doesn't work, use a "V" notch tile plier/cutter at the edge. For thick plate glass, a Rubi type tile cutter works well

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  • Another very nice clock - a lot of work gone in here.I struggle where I am to get a signal from either MSF or DCF.Well done

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  • If you have a device like an MCU that can sleep to save battery life, you can use a reed switch and magnet to activate it in a sealed case.Neat little assemblies - I use steel or nylon spacers a lot to stack boards.I also use Acrylic like yours to in layers to embed sensors if you need to see what's going on underneath like utility metersNeat PCBs

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  • pgs070947 commented on mxx's instructable Unclogging Rust-Oleum Nozzle

    Yes, they are designed to frustrate and waste loads of time and money like cartridges of silicone - the tradesmen have got the right idea - charge it to the customer and just use new ones each time. It does make sense in the long run.Poking things in the spray nozzle generally messes up the spray pattern - an aggressive solvent is probably the best bet. The nozzles are probably polypropylene or polyethylene so won't be touched in the short term by most solvents.If the contents are water-based, either water or caustic soda might soften up enough.If solvent based, aggressive solvents like chloromethane, methyl ethyl ketone, acetone, xylene or even meth's - your best chance is to get the nozzle off straightaway into solvent then a soft bristle like a toothbrush fibreSame strategy applies to…

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    Yes, they are designed to frustrate and waste loads of time and money like cartridges of silicone - the tradesmen have got the right idea - charge it to the customer and just use new ones each time. It does make sense in the long run.Poking things in the spray nozzle generally messes up the spray pattern - an aggressive solvent is probably the best bet. The nozzles are probably polypropylene or polyethylene so won't be touched in the short term by most solvents.If the contents are water-based, either water or caustic soda might soften up enough.If solvent based, aggressive solvents like chloromethane, methyl ethyl ketone, acetone, xylene or even meth's - your best chance is to get the nozzle off straightaway into solvent then a soft bristle like a toothbrush fibreSame strategy applies to decent paint brushes - don't use the same one all day, but swap regularly and get them straight into solvent or whatever after 30-minutes or so

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  • I always look at items before throwing out and that includes tuna cans.I mainly just clean them up and use for nuts, bolts screws etcThey stack nicely and get a white insulation tape label.Other no-throw items are the clear plastic tubs you get houmous or similar in for same reason as the cans but they stack better - ideal for little projects or disassembled parts. TicTac containers are ideal or very small parts and small glass jars do the rounds for mixing gravy in the microwave - yes, quite safe - or breakfast fruit juice (I always break the posh ones)If you reuse something just once before chucking, it does us all a favour.

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  • Never come across a dehydrator before. Is it just a controlled hot air oven or is there some other trickery like a desiccant or vacuum involved?In laboratories, you come across desiccators that have silica gel or molecular sieve in them, often combined with a vacuum pump, thus the vacuum desiccator. They generally don't need additional heat.

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  • pgs070947 commented on david0429's instructable How to Tap/Thread Wood

    Another method comes to mind which is to use repair "springs" They are generally used to screw into a larger damaged thread, then screw in a smaller thread size. If pushed into a hole drilled into the wood, the spring would expand and give you a metal rather than wood thread surface."T" nuts are designed for wood, but work best when on the opposite side of the timber.

    A method used by engineers to recover a damaged thread when they don't have the right tap. An angle grinder might be a bit fierce for that - generally, cutting the slot across the threads is best done with a hacksaw

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  • Looks nice.Dropping the mattress into the frame stops it sliding down the bed as you lean back against the headboard.The "shelf" provides somewhere to tie the shoe laces or store all those little nick nacks.

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  • Didn't see it mentioned, but good lighting is a must. Industrial grade machines almost always come with worklamps already fitted. A cheap option is to use an adjustable LED ceiling spotlight or even a decent torch to really light up where you are going drill. As an alternative to a centre punch, use a small ~ 2-mm bit to spot where you want to go in. Where space permits, I push the bit as far up the chuck as it will go to reduce wobble. And always respect the machine and bits - a large diameter bit that snatches can do a lot of damage

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  • For second cistern, read second large header tank in the loft area.It's all part of a much larger rainwater collection system which has evolved over the years and includes a sand filter at the roof downpipe end.To keep the water sterile, I add a dash of sodium hypochlorite (domestic bleach).I'm not sure that I would really want to use it for teeth brushing, but for everything else, it's fine. A lot depends on roof construction and concrete tiles in particular collect a lot of rubbish. In well over ten years use, I have never had a health issue that could be related. As an ex-water scientist, I have no issues with the water as used. My potable water consumption has shrunk from the national average of 150-litres per day to below 10-litres. It's a win-win system and has much more significan…

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    For second cistern, read second large header tank in the loft area.It's all part of a much larger rainwater collection system which has evolved over the years and includes a sand filter at the roof downpipe end.To keep the water sterile, I add a dash of sodium hypochlorite (domestic bleach).I'm not sure that I would really want to use it for teeth brushing, but for everything else, it's fine. A lot depends on roof construction and concrete tiles in particular collect a lot of rubbish. In well over ten years use, I have never had a health issue that could be related. As an ex-water scientist, I have no issues with the water as used. My potable water consumption has shrunk from the national average of 150-litres per day to below 10-litres. It's a win-win system and has much more significant benefits to the whole water supply and waste disposal industry that it is too long to list here. What it does do is turn rainy days into raw material collection days

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  • Better still, just use a bucket of rainwater.Main advantage is that it's soft water, so no descaling chemicals if you live in a hard water area.I have sized it up a bit to cover a lot of other things, but so far, used about 40-tonnes (40000-litres) of rainwater. Bills cut to absolute minimum. Makes all sorts of washing a pleasure.Have to agree with comment that it makes no sense to flush waste away with drinking water - takes a he amount of effort to produce, then rendered useless in the WC.

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  • pgs070947 commented on JON-A-TRON's instructable Thread ID Tool

    Just the ticket for sorting all those tins of unknown nuts and screws and washers that used to be sorted until the jobs came along.Like the others have said, there are several pitches for most diameters and it gets worse the larger the screw diameter. I'm no expert, but they seem to kick in for diameters above M5 or M6 and I have just bought some metric taps for M7 0.75 and M8 0.75. A lot of panel mounted electronic components use these finer pitches. For plastic enclosures with walls thicker than the component available thread, tapping the wall is the easiest option

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  • Very true. Washing 250-ml of urine with 5-10 litres of potable water makes no sense whatsoever. For the less squeamish, a couple of day's worth of poo doesn't matter either. A far better solution is to use the urine on the compost heap and adopt dry composting lavvies. The key to all this is make use of all the natural sources like rainwater, restrict tap or potable water to what the name suggests and be creative. I even collect the condensate water from the gas condensing boiler and whole body washing daily is a thing of the past.

    The author is using a quarter turn ball valve. The valve can be operated by a screwdriver, a thumb-turn or short lever as used and for you, a long lever version would be the best option. The long lever can be 100-mm long and colour-coded.There is a problem with quarter turn valves that relates to construction, water quality and usage.Cheap valves use cheap materials like poor seals and stuff like plated brass balls. For long term use, get a decent branded valve with a stainless steel ball. Cheap valves corrode in aggressive water and leak. They also tend to seize up, hence the usage bit.Another bit of advice, valves come in normal bore or full bore. If it's a low pressure system, get a full bore valve.There are other more expensive options like solenoid valves that can be electronically …

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    The author is using a quarter turn ball valve. The valve can be operated by a screwdriver, a thumb-turn or short lever as used and for you, a long lever version would be the best option. The long lever can be 100-mm long and colour-coded.There is a problem with quarter turn valves that relates to construction, water quality and usage.Cheap valves use cheap materials like poor seals and stuff like plated brass balls. For long term use, get a decent branded valve with a stainless steel ball. Cheap valves corrode in aggressive water and leak. They also tend to seize up, hence the usage bit.Another bit of advice, valves come in normal bore or full bore. If it's a low pressure system, get a full bore valve.There are other more expensive options like solenoid valves that can be electronically timed and would need no user intervention.

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  • A plumbing tip. If you turn your spool of PTFE tap over and wind the tape clockwise round the thread, it will keep taut while you're doing it. I'm guessing that the yellow spool is the thicker gas grade tape which I find is the best for most threads. Another thing you can do, is run the edge of a file across the threads to create a bit of roughness to stop the tape unwinding - doesn't affect the seal and many commercial threads (Danfoss for example) come already serrated.On droughts generaaly, one of the problems is using potable water for tasks that don't need highly purified water, like flushing the lavvy - rain water (collect as much as you can) or "grey" water is all that's needed and if you're not squeamish, you really don't need to flush it every time.The only potable wate…

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    A plumbing tip. If you turn your spool of PTFE tap over and wind the tape clockwise round the thread, it will keep taut while you're doing it. I'm guessing that the yellow spool is the thicker gas grade tape which I find is the best for most threads. Another thing you can do, is run the edge of a file across the threads to create a bit of roughness to stop the tape unwinding - doesn't affect the seal and many commercial threads (Danfoss for example) come already serrated.On droughts generaaly, one of the problems is using potable water for tasks that don't need highly purified water, like flushing the lavvy - rain water (collect as much as you can) or "grey" water is all that's needed and if you're not squeamish, you really don't need to flush it every time.The only potable water I use now is for drinking and food preparation - everything else is either reused or from water butts.

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  • pgs070947 commented on makendo's instructable DIY Laminate Countertops

    Finished job looks nice - who needs kitchen fitters?

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