DIY WiFi RGB LED Lamp

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Introduction: DIY WiFi RGB LED Lamp

About: Awesome Electronics Tutorials, Projects and How To´s

In this project I will show you how I created a three channel constant current source and successfully combined it with an ESP8266µC and a 10W RGB High Power LED in order to create a WiFi controlled Lamp. Along the way I will also demonstrate how easy it is to use the App "Blynk" to control your ESP8266 through WiFi. Let's get started!

Step 1: Watch the Video!

The video gives you all the information you need to create your own WiFi RGB LED Lamp. During the next steps though, I will present you some additional information.

Step 2: Order Your Components!

Here you can find a parts list with example seller (affiliate links):

Aliexpress:

1x 10W RGB LED: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d82x3FY

1x Heatsink: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dXgifSm

3x 10µH Inductor: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dUa8CPU

3x 1N4007 Diode: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dYR45Bh

1x LM7805 Voltage Regulator: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dXSrfiP

1x 12V 1A Power Supply: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dVfsSEa

2x 470µF Capacitor: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d7dOwRz

3x 220nF Capacitor: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dU4FEsB

1x ESP8266 (NodeMCU): https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d7ooHwW

3x MCP602 OpAmp: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dTvJRGw

4x TC4420 MOSFET Driver: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d9epnMB

4x IRLZ44N MOSFET: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dWhSrDl

4x 10Ω, 3x 5.1kΩ, 3x 1Ω, 3x 1kΩ, 3x 10kΩ Resistor: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dTPpXjt

Ebay:

1x 10W RGB LED: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?...

1x Heatsink: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?...

3x 10µH Inductor: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?...

3x 1N4007 Diode: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?...

1x LM7805 Voltage Regulator: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?...

1x 12V 1A Power Supply: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?...

2x 470µF Capacitor: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?...

3x 220nF Capacitor: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?...

1x ESP8266 (NodeMCU): http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?...

3x MCP602 OpAmp: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?...

4x TC4420 MOSFET Driver: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?...

4x IRLZ44N MOSFET: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?...

4x 10Ω, 3x 5.1kΩ, 3x 1Ω, 3x 1kΩ, 3x 10kΩ Resistor: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?...

Amazon.de:

1x 10W RGB LED: http://amzn.to/2yRFQhv

1x Heatsink: http://amzn.to/2y0RGJz

3x 10µH Inductor: http://amzn.to/2y3Q3s0

3x 1N4007 Diode: http://amzn.to/2wF7rlb

1x LM7805 Voltage Regulator: http://amzn.to/2wGvi4d

1x 12V 1A Power Supply: http://amzn.to/2wEYAju

2x 470µF Capacitor: http://amzn.to/2y2yV8g

3x 220nF Capacitor: http://amzn.to/2g1Jxxr

1x ESP8266 (NodeMCU): http://amzn.to/2yzF9gA

3x MCP602 OpAmp: http://amzn.to/2g2qtPz

4x TC4420 MOSFET Driver: http://amzn.to/2wFVVq4

4x IRLZ44N MOSFET: http://amzn.to/2y32NPI

4x 10Ω, 3x 5.1kΩ, 3x 1Ω, 3x 1kΩ, 3x 10kΩ Resistor: http://amzn.to/2g2AnRr

Step 3: Create the Circuit!

Here you can find the schematic of the circuit and pictures of my completed perfboard. Feel free to use it as a reference. You can also see the schematic on EasyEDA:

https://easyeda.com/editor#id=2c6d24c962144729bf56...

Step 4: Upload the Code!

Here you can find the sketch that I created for the circuit. Make sure to upload it to the ESP8266. You will also need to include this URL in your Arduino preferences: http://arduino.esp8266.com/stable/package_esp8266c...

This way you can download/install the ESP8266 boards. Afterwards make sure to download/install the Blynk library through the library manager.

Step 5: Print the Enclosure!

Here you can find the 123D Design files for the enclosure. Use them to print your own RGB LED Lamp. Afterwards you can cut the acrylic glass circle and mount all the components inside the enclosure.

Step 6: Success!

You did it! You just built your own WiFi RGB LED Lamp!

Feel free to check out my YouTube channel for more awesome projects:

http://www.youtube.com/user/greatscottlab

You can also follow me on Facebook, Twitter and Google+ for news about upcoming projects and behind the scenes information:

https://twitter.com/GreatScottLab

https://www.facebook.com/greatscottlab

1 Person Made This Project!

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21 Discussions

0
franciscor24
franciscor24

Question 2 months ago on Introduction

Hello Scott, your tutorial is impressive, I have a concern, it can be added to your blink application, apart from changing the intensity of the three colors (red, green, blue); the variable time is added ?, that is, at a certain time it has a certain combination (RGB) different

0
Miske02
Miske02

Question 6 months ago on Step 3

Hi, I do this work for a high-school graduation paper and I need to
write how this circuit work(description of circuit operation). Can
anyone write it please?

0
yallahabibi
yallahabibi

Question 1 year ago

Hello,

Can I use the SOT89 foot print of LM7805 Voltage Regulator, the max output current is @ 100mA.

0
bht2419
bht2419

Answer 7 months ago

No the board can draw more power when there are problems. Avoid damaging the regulator by using a high current one (1a should be ok)

1
bht2419
bht2419

Question 7 months ago

Hi Scott, I can't see your 1ohm resistor on your perfboard. Where can it be?

0
artemen
artemen

1 year ago

That would be nice to have a "blynk like" app which wouldn't require internet connection to control various devices, just merely being on the same wifi network should be sufficient.

0
bobby.mazey
bobby.mazey

Reply 8 months ago

I use the esp32 in Bluetooth pairing mode, works great

0
otterspockets
otterspockets

1 year ago on Step 5

I made the enclosure but the outer ring does not fit into the main body. Im guessing my printer is out of calibration, or is there something i've missed?

0
davetyrael
davetyrael

Reply 1 year ago

I had the same problem. I reduced the scale of the ring by 2%. Now the fitting is a bit loose, but fits nicely with the outer diameter of the lamp itself.

0
shivakumar1995
shivakumar1995

2 years ago

Hey I made this and got it printed on a PCB. The one problem I am encountering is that the LEDs are going down in brightness they are either on or off. some small changes in the circuit. I eliminated the 1 ohm current limiting resistor and used a 47uH inductor instead. What could be the problem? everything else is the same.

0
VincentH5
VincentH5

Reply 1 year ago

Why would you replace a Shunt resistor with an inductor? That makes no sense at all and is possibly the reason why it isn't working.

1
DyMyTRhy
DyMyTRhy

2 years ago

Can you reupload the lamp 3D printed case in stl?

123D is no longer available and I can't find anything to open the 123dx file

0
HannesG2
HannesG2

2 years ago

is it posible to convert the circuit diagram in to an PCB?

1
laske02
laske02

2 years ago

Can i use this circuit with small 3W leds.They require 2.2-3.5V.Do i only need to change the power supply voltage?Im beginner in electronics.

Thanks!!

0
theonea1
theonea1

2 years ago

Would it be possible to use a 50w 36v LED?

0
ryuhemanth
ryuhemanth

3 years ago

Great job, saw your video on youtube, you are putting a lot of work and giving care to every minute detail of the cicuit, you are an amazing electrical engineer.

1
starphire
starphire

3 years ago

Nice work on the electronic design and integration to wireless control. It is clear that you put a lot of thought and care into the electronics and mechanicals here.

So I am surprised that your approach to the thermal management of the LEDs is so casual in comparison. Having done a number of design and test cycles on similar high power LED fixtures, I would never have your confidence that they will last a long time in this arrangement!

Even in open air, that would be a minimal heatsink to properly cool 5 Watts of LEDs continuously, let alone 10 Watts. But it's worse when the heatsink is in an unventilated enclosure without even a fan to help cycle the air inside. And the assembly is placed on top of a power supply module that is also generating heat. That 12W output power supply may be 80-90% efficient, so it can add a few Watts of heat as well. Adhesive silicone thermal pads are a compromise in heat transfer for assembly convenience and/or electrical isolation, never for the best heat transfer. A good thermal paste would do better, since you don't need to worry about electrical isolation in this case.

I realize there are *many* Makers and enthusiasts who
undersize the LED heatsink, and conclude that it "feels" OK to touch so it must be working. Everything seems to be working fine as they write up and
publish their design for others to copy. If some of the LEDs start to
fail after 100 or 1000 hours, they are usually quick to blame a poor
quality LED module rather than consider the possibility that the
junction temperature of the LEDs was exceeding its limits on a regular
basis. The methods and formula for calculating Max. Tj from known parameters are not difficult to apply, and easily confirmed with a thermocouple in the fully assembled lamp. I would strongly recommend doing that, you may be quite surprised at the extrapolated junction temperatures on full power!

0
leshemeli
leshemeli

3 years ago

greatest video explanation. nice product

0
laith mohamed
laith mohamed

3 years ago

Wow attractive that is nice ...

0
jeanotP1314
jeanotP1314

3 years ago

That's a great project! Thanks for sharing :)