Introduction: Desktop Grommet Speaker Stand

I needed some speakers stands for my desk. The desk already had grommet holes in it, so I was hoping to use those. Speaker stands are unreasonably expensive, and I could not find any that worked in a grommet, so I looked to make some.

I found this video: and picked up from there, thanks Tek Everything.

Step 1: Tools and Materials


  1. Sharpie (For cut marks)
  2. Saw (Hacksaw will work well, not pictured)
  3. Tape measure
  4. Rubber Mallet (Optional, helps with the drain fitting)
  5. Clamps (Optional, but they help!)


Materials are determined based on the number of stands you want to make. Pictures show materials for 2 stands, but this list (except for the bulk length of pipe) is for 1 stand, so buy accordingly!

All materials were purchased from Lowes, for less than $50, for 2 stands.

  1. Length of 2 in PVC Pipe (length determined by the number and height of your stands.
  2. Small length of 1 in PVC Pipe (You need ~2 inches for each stand you want to make)
  3. 2 in - 1 in bushing
  4. 2 in - 1 in threaded bushing (threads on 1 in side)
  5. 2 in coupling
  6. 1 in threaded adapter
  7. Green square drain (part is important to fit the 2 inch elbow, Lowe's part #118877
  8. PVC Cement

Step 2: Measurements

Stand Measurements

I missed this the first time around. My desk requires 2 people to mount these stands, so I skipped this step and wound up with stands that were way to tall. Whoops... This step is important.

I wanted an 20 inch stand. That is, 20 inches off the top of my desk. This will clear my monitors, and provide a little room to lift them a bit later.

I would recommend making your own measurements, but these worked for me, with the pieces listed on the items step.

The bushing adds about 0.375 in.

The 2 inch coupler is 2.75 inches, the pipe will go in almost half way, so we need 2.75 / 2 = 1.375 inches.

The elbow is ~3.25 inches from tallest portion to the bottom, it consumes ~0.75 inches of pipe, so 3.75 - 0.75 = 3.00 inches.

So for our long length of pipe: 20 - 1.375 - 3 - 0.375 = 15.25 inches of the 2 in pipe.

Desk Measurements

My desk is 1 inch thick. To make the fitting flush with the bushing, I needed 2 inches of 1 inch pipe, and the 1 inch fittings will still be a little tall. I will have to cut some ply-wood shims to go between the underside of my desk, and the threaded bushing.

If your desk is thicker than 1 inch (cool), you will need longer 1 inch pieces to get through the grommet, make sure to measure the depth of the grommet hole.

Step 3: Cut!

2 inch pipe

You can see in the photo how I clamped the 2 inch pipe for measuring and cutting. The clamps were very helpful.

Measure the cut, mark with sharpie. Measure twice cut once...

Make the cut.

1 inch pipe

The fittings that I bought used 1 inch of the 1 inch pipe as an insert. So I cut 2 inch sections of the 1 inch pipe for each stand I wanted to make.

Note that this was for a desk that is 1 inch thick. The fitting was flush with the bushing, but the assembly was still too tall. I will cut a shim to compensate. Your 1 in pipes will need to be longer if your surface is thicker.

Step 4: Attach the Top of the Stand

The elbow and grate were a very tight fit for me.

Sand the letters, numbers and lines off one end of the elbow.

Using a rubber mallet, hammer the elbow into the inner ring of the grate, making sure to keep the elbow at a perpendicular to a side of the grate. This will make sure that your speakers will point at a down angle, and not down and out somehow.

Since these fit together so well, I did not cement mine. I don't even know that the PVC cement will work on the grate (it may).

Step 5: Dry Fit

Make sure to test all of your pieces before applying cement. Some of them will be very snug and hard to get back apart.

From left to right:

  1. Green grate with elbow already attached
  2. 2 inch pipe
  3. 2 inch coupler
  4. 2 inch smooth bushing
  5. 1 inch pipe piece
  6. 1 inch threaded fitting

You should be able to test your fit on your desk now.

Threaded portion goes down through the grommet, using the threaded bushing to tighten into place.

Step 6: Cement

Once you have verified your cuts and pieces, follow the directions on the PVC cement and cement all the parts together using the previous step.

It may be obvious, but don't cement the threaded bushing... you need this to mount the stands.

I didn't use any cleaner for my stands, I'm not sure what benefit it would be since these arent for plumbing.

Step 7: Paint

After your whole setup has cured according to the cement's instructions, you can paint these.

I picked a metallic rust-oleum. All of the different Rust-oleum finishes look good, so just pick one. Follow the directions on the can of paint, it may require multiple coats to get the finish right.

Make sure to tape off the threads on the inside of the threaded bushing, and the outside of the fitting.