Introduction: Driftwood Floor Lamp, Dimmable
I always wanted to have a nice driftwood floor lamp, because I love the design and the indirect lightning. The problem with these lamps is that they are quite expensive (several hundred €) and do not have the technical requirements that I wanted.
- cheaper than in online shops
- energy efficient
- warm white (for a cozy room feeling)
- very bright
- long lasting
So I came up with my own design :)
Step 1: Parts and Tools Required
Note: Unfortunately there are some different standards for the lampshades as well as the power supplies and LEDs. Therefor I have not found a suitable power supply for international standards, which is available everywhere. If you know parts or links for other countries (US), just write it in the comments and I'll add them.
- Driftwood tree trunk
- Metal (sculpture) stand, depends on the driftwood size
- Step-on-button (not a switch) (Banggood, amazon.de)
- High power LED: COB Module (Aliexpress, leds.de)
- Constant current power supply, dimmable
- Meanwell LCM-40DA (leds.de)
- Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive (leds.de)
- Heatsink (leds.de)
- Power cord (amazon.de)
- Vintage Hemp Rope textile cable (Aliexpress)
- Cable clips
- Wago Splicing Connectors
- 3D printed heatsink mount
- Wire cutters/strippers
- Soldering iron
- 20mm drill bit (depends on the size of the metal stand)
- Small nails (for cable clips)
- File / Rasp
- 3D printer and PLA
*Optional: If your tree trunk diameter is big enough, you can drill a hole right into it with a (Forstner bit) so you don't need the 3D printed heatsink mount.
Step 2: Driftwood and Stand Preperations
I bought the driftwood for a fair price from a local dealer in Austria. Of course it's easier if you live near a river or the sea, so you can search for your own perfect piece of wood. In Germany there is an easy rule for driftwood: As long as you can carry it you can take it. :)
- Level the underside of the trunk
- Use this monstrosity of a drill bit to make a hole in the middle of the trunk (about 12 cm deep)
Hint: Be careful with brittle wood. Depending on the stability and diameter the hole should be deeper.
- For the stand i disassembled my old floor lamp*
- Put the trunk on the metal stand and check if the top side is in balance, adjust with file if necessary
- File off the outer side (about 14mm height) so that it matches the diameter of the heat sink (47mm)
*Note: Various metal stands for sculptures are available online. Only make sure to choose one with a weighted base, depending on the size of your trunk.
Step 3: 3D Print the Heatsink and Lampshade Holder
I wanted an easy to install solution without glue and without having to drill more holes. It is more or less a quick and dirty prototype, but it fits quite well :)
3D printer settings are pretty standard:
- 0.2mm layer height
- 15% infill (rectilinear)
- no support needed
Now put it together and see if it is straight:
- Mount the ring on the trunk (you can also use glue for more stability)
- Put the lampshade onto the ring
- Stick the heatsink mount into the ring
Step 4: Electronics
If you want to get the best out of the high power LED, a constant current power supply is required. With most of these power supplies the maximum current can be adjusted via dip switches (see description on the LCM). But the more power the LED uses the bigger the heat sink has to be! The heatsink and power supply are matched to approx. 10 Watt power consumption.
Installing the LED
- First solder the cables to the COB-LED
- Mix the thermal adhesive with a ratio of 1:1. Be precise here or it will not harden
- Put a small portion of the adhesive on the heatsink and press the LED on it. Use some kind of weight or a screw clamp to hold it in position
- After about 1 hour the adhesive should be hardened
Note: It's probably easier to first glue the LED on the heatsink, but you ll need a very powerful soldering iron afterwards :)
The wiring is described in the picture above. A 3-way Wago connector is used to link the power cord with "AC/L" on the power supply. The blue cable of the power cord is connected with "AC/N" and the blue push button cable is connected to "PUSH". Use a small chunk of cable to connect the Wago connector with "AC/L" and you are done.
The LED is connected at the bottom left. Pay attention to the polarity!
The Mean Well LCM-40DA is a power supply which is dimmable by a push button. If you use a switch it's getting pretty annoying soon. Please use a push button :)
WARNING: If you don't have the knowledge to wire things up, get some help from your friendly neighborhood electrician. Also be careful if you use another heatsink or a more powerful LED. COB LEDs get hot very fast and need the right heat dissipation!
Step 5: Put It All Together
Installing the cable
This was the hardest part for me. There are different solutions on how to place the cables so they are not seen:
- mill a narrow gap for the cable
- wrap the cable around the trunk
- or even drill a hole through it with special extended drill bits
Since I always have my floor lamp standing on the wall, I decided to simply use some nail-in cable clips.
I used these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4142681 (big thx to akimakes)
In the last step place the heatsink into the mount and make sure the power supply gets enough air.
Aaaand youre done! :)
I have planned an upgrade to turn the lamp into a smart lamp. Amazon.de offers a special constant current power supply with Zigbee feature: LINK
It's a bit expensive but you can integrate it into your smart home system or homeassistant and control it by voice commands :)
Participated in the