(1.0)EVSE: CONVERTING a LEVEL 1 (12AMP) TO a LEVEL 2 (12 AMP) (Take a Look at 2.0)

Introduction: (1.0)EVSE: CONVERTING a LEVEL 1 (12AMP) TO a LEVEL 2 (12 AMP) (Take a Look at 2.0)

  This design is a little awkward to use, but my intent was to make a small, simple, portable level 2 charger out of a level 1 charger for the occasional use on the road. I have made a number of designs which are more user friendly but are not as electronically simple. And I will be posting some of them soon. In fact another one is up take a look at the other one that I posted, it is a better design, the 2.0. So on to the warning.

Step 1: WARNING:

You will be working with a 220V circuit. All parts used should have a minimum rating greater than or equal to 15AMP and 220VAC. I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOU ELECTROCUTING YOURSELF. If you don't have experience with High Voltage/High Current you may not want to do this.  If you do not wire this circuit as it is in the diagram you can damage your car and house and yourself. NEVER WORK ON A HOT (PLUGED IN) CIRCUIT!Do research beyond this article before you start. I take no responsibility for you or your car or any property that may be damaged.  You are responsible for wiring things properly! If you do not know how to work safely, and how to wire things in reference to a schematic do not attempt this.

Step 2: That Said Have Fun and Make It Happen.

Connect the NEMA 14-50(NEMA 14-50 because it's the 220v plug that campgrounds uses, but any 220v plug rated at 15 amp or better plug will work) to a 220v GFIC. (Note: I removed the extra prong from the 220v plug because it it's not doing anything in this circuit) It will look under wired but remember you are only pulling 12 amps. I used the rubber grommet from a tension relief so that the plug would grab the small cord. 

Step 3: Connecting It,,,

Connect GFIC into top of waterproof out box, a with tension relief. Cut the EVSE cable about a foot after the control box. Connect EVSE box out cord into the top of waterproof out box, a with tension relief. Connect J1772 cable into bottom of waterproof out box, a with tension relief.

Connect blue(control)  wire to blue wire (use meter to make sure blue wire is connected to pin #4 on J1772) Connect all of the grounds tougher and ground the box and switch. (Or you could use a  PVC box with waterproof switch and PVC tension relief then you simply need to Connect all of the grounds tougher.)

Step 4: And Yet, More Connecting,,,

Connect black and white wires from J1772 to the center prongs (Common). Connect black and white wires from the 220v out side of the GFCI to one end of the switch. All of the black wires should be on the one side of the switch and all of the white wires should be on the other side of the switch.

Connect black and white wires from the 110v out of the EVSE to one end of the switch. All of the black wires should be on the one side of the switch and all of the white wires should be on the other side of the switch.

Step 5: Marking Your Switch!

Mark the outside of the box so you know which side is 110v and which side is 220v.

Step 6: To Operate: 110v Mode.

For 110v operation, throw the switch to the 110v side and uses as you always have.

Step 7: To Operate: 220v Mode.

For 220v operation put the switch in the neutral center off position and plug in both the 110v and the 220v plugs into the wall outlets. Then plug the J1772 plug into the car and wait for the “charge” light on the EVSE to come on, at this point throw the switch to the 220v position. It gives you a 5 second window to throw the switch (do not trip and fall running to the switch this is plenty of time to get to the switch and throw it), if you fail to throw the switch in this time frame you simply need return the switch to the off position, unplug the J1772 from the car and plug back in to the car wait for the “charge” light to come on and throw the switch back to 220v position again.(If you turn it on and then plug it in you will be handling a 220V extension Cords. This is more dangerous than an 110V extension Cords, so don’t do it.) (Boaters and campers do it seam to do it without any problem but that’s beside the point.) Nothing bad has happened. You will however see a yellow warning light “!” on your dash the next time you start your car. This is to let you know that there was a problem with the last charge.  To get this warning light to turn off, you turn off your car and turn it back on and the light will be off

Step 8: Conclusion:

This is a good solution because the 110v part of this circuit (EVSE) is run off of 110v and 220v part of the circuit is run off of 220v. Both the switch and the GFCI are rated for 220v at 15A as well as the crimp connecters and wires (all components are rated for 220v at 15A) .

If you have any questions, just ask, glad to help. (I will be off line this Weekend 8-24,25-13)

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    Bryce Nesbitt
    Bryce Nesbitt

    4 years ago

    Warning: these instructions have been superseded twice. The newest version is:



    5 years ago

    Do any of these work for 2011 evse


    Reply 4 years ago


    Yes. But I would recommend just going with the 3.0 instructables.

    Thanks Dave


    7 years ago on Introduction

    Perhaps I missed it. Is there a SAMPLE parts list, with make/model numbers? At least for the 220 GFI? It would be nice to have that for completeness. Thank you.


    Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

    This was my first instructible and I did not include a parts list (inadvertently). I have however tried not to promote or recommend any brand or product. I've noticed that some instructibles are nothing more than a platform for selling a product, especially in the electronics. To avoid the appearance of impropriety I have chosen to simply not name products. But as my son would say "you can search it up". I understand that this makes it a little harder for you to build this thing but I don't really have a better solution for the problem.

    You can find this type of GFCI on outdoor products.

    Best of luck Dave


    7 years ago

    I flowed your instructions works well!

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