Easy DIY Console Table

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Introduction: Easy DIY Console Table

This is a basic table using advanced joint techniques but anyone can make it. The front has faux drawers and the legs can be bought so no need to turn your own. I set out to make my own table when none of the pre built tables were tall enough for a sunken living room. This table is 35 inches tall (counter height) and fills the room much better.

You can replace the mortise and tenons with pocket holes making this tables build time a couple of hours.

-To See the table being built step by step please check out my YouTube video above.

Supplies

  • 4 knoll posts
  • Wood
  • Wood Glue
  • CA Glue
  • Clamps
  • Router Table
  • 3/8" Straight Cut Router Bit
  • Drawer Pulls

Cut List:

  • 2 1X6X1 - 51" Pine
  • 2 1X6X1 - 12" Pine
  • 4 Knoll Posts 35"
  • 3 1X6X1 -

Step 1: Trim Knoll Posts

Make the legs for the table. Standard legs are too short for a counter top height table. I am using stair railing knoll posts (available at any hardware store) and trimming the top and bottom off. I cut them to a total length of 34 Inches.

The Posts on the bottom have a large square part. This looks too much like a square block of wood for me, so I routered the edges giving it some shape. I used a 1/2 inch chamfer bit and removed the factory edges.

Step 2: Cutting the Side Boards to Length

The base is basically a square on legs, cut the sides at 12 inches and the front and back at 51 inches.

Step 3: Cutting the Mortise & Tenon

The sides of the table base will connect to the legs using mortise and tenon joints. If you don't know how to cut mortise and tenon joints, check my other instructable to learn how.

In the knoll posts I cut two mortise pockets 4 inches long. The ends of all the side boards will have a matching tenon.

This is an easy way to join the parts but if you are looking for a quicker easier way to join them just remove 2" from each board and use pocket holes instead.

Step 4: Adding the Faux Drawers

To add the faux drawers I cut 1/8 inch deep lines vertically on the front board. I used a track saw to cut mine but a straight edge with a circular saw works the same. make sure the depth is set before cutting. Use a scrap to check the depth.

For my table I made two cuts to make the look of three perfectly cut drawers. We don't need anymore storage so this is an easy way to keep the custom look without the extra work.

Step 5: Glue Up

Glue the tenons into the mortise, the pieces should slide in with some effort. Clamp the pieces together and ensure everything is sitting square as you clamp. Once the the glue is dry remove the clamps. This will form the base to support the top.

I added two cross braces using 12 inch long 2x2's to the bottom of the legs using CA glue. These aren't necessary if you do not want, they just add some extra stability to the table.

Step 6: Painting the Base

Paint or stain the base however you want. My table will be flat black but any color can be used. Paint the base before attaching the top, this will save time later.

Step 7: Assembling the Top

The top is fairly simple to make. I took 3 1x6 boards and using wood glue, I glued them together edge to edge. Make sure the edges being glued have full glue coverage and clamp them together.

Once the boards are dry remove the clamps. The boards should be longer then the desired top size for alignment issues. Trim the ends of the top to the desired length using a straight edge. I trimmed my glued 60 inch boards down after the glue up for a final dimension of 55 inches.

For my table I routed the front and side edges to give the top a profiled edge.

Step 8: Filling & Stabilizing the Knots

The wood i'm using is wormy white oak, the wood has holes left behind by worms living in the tree. The wood also has larger knots needing to be filled and stabilized. I fill my knots using CA glue and accelerator. This glue can be layered and with the accelerator is ready for sanding in minutes or less.

Step 9: Attaching the Top

To Attach the top I use pocket holes and glue. I put some wood glue on top of the posts and clamp it down to make sure it sits flat and even. Next I use pocket holes drilled into the base sides to draw the top tight to the legs.

I left the top sticking out a half inch at the back so the table top will be flush with the wall, when the legs are against the baseboards.

Step 10: Add the Handles

As the title says drill holes using a 3/16 inch bit and attach the handles to the front of the table. Space the handles evenly in the spaces made by the grooves cut previously with a circular or track saw.

TIP: Drill the holes in the board before attaching the board to the base instead of after the top is on.

Step 11: Enjoy

Tables Done!

I hope you enjoyed following along on this build!

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    7 Comments

    0
    bomstadmk
    bomstadmk

    Tip 1 year ago on Step 9

    Very nice looking table top. I enjoy using wood with "character" as well. Only suggestion that I would make is to modify how you are attaching the top to allow for seasonal movement. You can purchase table top fasteners from various supply houses, or alternatively you could use the pocket hole screws along one side of the front or back and slot the rest of the holes in the apron so that the top has a little room to move. Depending on the grain orientation, it is not unreasonable that a top this wide would expand and contract as much as 1/8 inch between summer and winter. I attached a photo of the tabletop that taught me this lesson.

    cracked top.jpg
    0
    Toolsthatbuild
    Toolsthatbuild

    Reply 1 year ago

    Yikes what did you use for joining the boards? This is my third time building a similar table and in several years never had separation like that. Maybe our humidity swing isn’t as bad as yours.

    0
    bomstadmk
    bomstadmk

    Reply 1 year ago

    The top was made with jointed and edge glued 3/4 inch red oak boards. Although this crack is along a joint, a top can fail within a board as well. I like to make mission-style furniture, and use design basics from Wood magazine. That construction will literally last generations given any reasonable care, and all of the glued up tops -- even though quartersawn grain expands and contracts less -- are attached with ability to move. Same for side panels unless very narrow. If you're using plywood or veneered MDF, it is much more stable. Here's a link from another source with a quick explanation: https://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/best-practices-guide/components-hardware-assembly/dont-screw-your-wood-top

    0
    tercero
    tercero

    1 year ago

    Very nice. A lot nicer than those faux chip board wood with glued laminate stuff you see in stores. I love the legs made from stair balusters. Great way of getting a turned look without breaking the budget.

    0
    Toolsthatbuild
    Toolsthatbuild

    Reply 1 year ago

    Thank you! The real wood and joinery will make this last so much longer than those faux chip tables.

    0
    louisequinby
    louisequinby

    Question 1 year ago on Step 10

    Hi there, I really like the look of your console table. I have an antique table similar to the one you built. I have stripped it and I want to paint it a Matt black. Is your table spray painted? What kind of paint did you use?

    0
    Toolsthatbuild
    Toolsthatbuild

    Answer 1 year ago

    Hello thank you. I tried to keep this project very diy friendly so the paint I used is standard Behr latex paint (Color name is Carbon) and I used a foam roller both available at any hardware store.