Introduction: Easy, Useful, 5 Minutes, Free, Stick-welding Tool (fýcil, Ýtil, 5 Minutos, Gratuita, Herramienta Para Soldadura Elýctrica)
El problema: Yo soy un aprendiz de soldador, y creo que lo seguiré siendo por el resto de mi vida. Uno de los problemas que tengo que enfrentar es mi mal pulso, sobre todo cuando el electrodo es nuevo y por lo tanto demasiado largo para poder manejarlo con precisión. Para solucionarlo, se me ocurrió el presente simple dispositivo.
The problem:I am an apprentice welder, and I think I will continue being for the rest of my life. One of the problems I have to face is my bad pulse, especially when the electrode is new and therefore too long to be handled with precision. To fix this, I thought this simple device.
Step 1: El Mango (the Handle)
Tomé un trozo de varilla de madera, en este caso de 2x2 cm, y unos 15 cm de largo. Las medidas son ajustables al gusto y a la mano de cada uno. Podría ser también un trozo redondo, de palo de escoba, por ejemplo.
I took a piece of stick, in this case of 2x2 cm and 15 cm long. The measures are adjustable to the taste and the hand of each. Could also be a round piece of broom handle, for instance.
Step 2: Los Agujeros (the Holes)
En un extremo del palito hice transversalmente un agujero del diámetro del electrodo más grueso que suelo usar, incluida la cobertura (4.5 mm). Perpendicularmente a este agujero, o sea sobre una de las caras adyacentes del palito, hice otro agujero un poco más grande (6 mm), con el centro desplazado unos dos milímetros hacia el extremo más alejado, de manera que interceptara parcialmente el primer agujero.
At one end of the stick I made a hole across, the diameter of the thicker electrode than I usually use, including coat (4.5 mm). Perpendicular to this hole, that is to say on one of the adjacent faces of the stick, I made another hole a little larger (6 mm), with the center shifted about two millimeters toward the far end, so that partially intercept the first hole.
Step 3: El Resorte (the Spring)
Busqué un trozo de unos 10 cm de varilla de acero aplanada. Podría haber usado un alambre redondo de acero, aplanado a martillazos, pero eso no es tan fácil como puede parecer. El resorte debe tener cierta dureza; si es muy blando y flexible no sirve. Atravesé con la varilla el segundo agujero, doblé un extremo y lo até con alambre delgado al mango, de manera que el cuerpo de la varilla se atraviese dentro del primer agujero. Es más fácil verlo que explicarlo. Doblé en forma de gatillo el otro extremo de la varilla de acero, para poder manejarlo con el dedo índice.
Agregado en julio 2011: El resorte no debe ser necesariamente plano, puede ser redondo.
I looked for a piece of about 10 cm flattened steel rod. I could have used a steel round wire, flattened with a hammer, but that's not as easy as it seems. The spring should have some hardness; if it is very soft and flexible, does not work. Crossed with the rod the second hole, bent one end and tied with thin wire to the handle, so that the body of the rod are crossed within the first hole. It is easier to see than to explain. I folded trigger-shaped the other end of the steel rod, to handle it with the index finger.
Added in July 2011: The spring need not be flat, can be round..
Step 4: C�mo Se Usa (how to Use It):
Al iniciar un nuevo electrodo, es decir cuando este es muy largo, se pasa la punta del electrodo por el agujero de 4.5mm del mango, y se sube este hasta aproximadamente la mitad del electrodo, o la distancia que quede cómoda. No se puede dejarlo muy cerca del extremo porque se quemaría rápidamente al soldar. Para colocar y sacar el mango, así como para corregir su posición, se aprieta el resorte, con lo cual se afloja la presión. Al soltarlo, el mango queda aprisionado al electrodo. Al momento de soldar, el peso del portaelectrodo debe ser sostenido con el antebrazo, mientras se maneja el electrodo con el manguito de madera.
To start a new electrode, that is to say when it is too long, the electrode tip passed through the 4.5mm hole of the handle, and goes this to about half of the electrode, or the distance that is comfortable. You can not leave it near the tip because welding will burn it quickly. To place and remove the handle, and to correct their position, tighten the spring, thus loosening the pressure. When released, the handle is bound to the electrode. When welding, the weight of the torch should be held with the forearm, while driving the electrode with the wooden handle.
Step 5: Aislemos, Por Las Dudas (Isolate, Just in Case):
Aunque la capa de material que cubre el electrodo no es buena conductora de la electricidad, no es mala idea aislar el resorte, para evitar que por cualquier imprevisto la corriente pase a la mano. Al efecto usé dos trozos de espaghetti termo-contraíble, uno sobre otro. Con cinta aisladora cubrí el alambre que fija el resorte al mango.
Although the coat of material covering the electrode is not a good conductor of electricity, not a bad idea to isolate the spring, to avoid any unforeseen the power pass on hand. To this end I used two pieces of heat-shrink spaghetti, one over another. With duct tape covered the wire that fixed the spring to the handle.
32 Comments
5 years ago
BRILLIANT.
THANKS FOR SHARING
11 years ago on Introduction
De que parte de Argentina sos? Buenos Aires? Quiero saber solo porque viví ahí por dos años. Hace 2 meces y pico que he vuelto a mi casa en Texas y lo extraño montón. Hablo castellano cada vez que me presenta una oportunidad. Si quiere ayuda con tus Instructables, o con las traducciones, me encantaría ayudarte en cualquier cosa que quiere. Avisame si nececitas algo. Que le vaya bien!
Reply 11 years ago on Introduction
Hola, gracias por tu comentario y ofrecimiento. Vivo en Villa Elisa, a 42 Km de BsAs.
La mejor ayuda que me podés dar es leer mis traducciones al inglés e informarme de aquellas cosas que no se entienden. No te pido un análisis estilístico, me basta con que me entiendan. El Google Translator es excelente, pero no puede hacer milagros. Por ejemplo, si buscas "morsa" te traduce "walrus" que es el animal, no el tornillo de banco. Y como esa hay montones.
Debe ser lindo Texas, por lo que se ve en las películas.
12 years ago on Introduction
I can see that this would be useful :D I learned to stick weld a month or two ago but only today did I get a good chance to practice! Something steady at the end of the rod is a big help, my glove got a bit hot!
Reply 12 years ago on Introduction
James, If you have not a photosensitive mask, BUY ONE NOW!
I bought one less than a week ago, and I was amazed. It is awesome, I can work twice faster and better.
Yes, the leather glove can be useful to help to drive the tip of the electrode, when it is not so hot.
12 years ago on Introduction
Hi : Been welding for over 40 years, never " the best in the shop ". 1 helpful tip, if you want an easy & neat start to a TIG, or stick weld, clamp a piece of copper close to your weld start, establish your arc on it, then weld. Cheers, AR10NZ
Reply 12 years ago on Introduction
Thanks for the tip, AR10NZ. I will try it soon.
12 years ago on Step 5
hola Osvaldo, hace unos dias atras estaba justo pensando como soldar, porque yo tambien estoy flojo como soldador, yo pense en cortar el electrodo lo que pasa pero es que se te rompe el aislante del mismo y no se lo puede aprovechar del todo, buena idea. un saludo tony.
Reply 12 years ago on Step 5
Hola Tony, gracias por el comentario. Yo corto solamente los electrodos de 1.6mm, los demás los manejo con este aparatito hasta que llegan a la mitad.
Para cortarlos uso el alicate, y hago girar el electrodo entre los filos a medida que voy apretando, de esa manera por lo general evito que salte el recubrimiento. Es cierto que se pierde un poco, pero yo no puedo soldar con un electrodo completo de 1.6mm. Para determinar más o menos la mitad, lo pongo en balance sobre la yema del dedo.
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment. I cut only 1.6mm electrodes, the others use this gadget until they reach the middle.
Use the pliers to cut them, and I turn the electrode between the edges as I'm pressing, thereby usually avoid springing the coating. It is true that you lose a little, but I can not weld with complete 1.6mm electrode. To determine roughly its half, put it in balance on a fingertip.
Reply 12 years ago on Step 5
gracias Osvaldo por responder, esto tambien fue util, me refiero a lo de girar mientras cortas, parece que no pero son estas pequeñas cosas lo que hacen la vida mas facil. un saludo tony
Reply 12 years ago on Step 5
Otra pequeñez que se me pasó por alto en el comentario anterior: si corto el electrodo con la parte central del alicate, el salto que se produce suele hacer saltar la cubierta. Pero si lo hago con la garganta, al haber mucha más palanca el corte es mucho más suave y la cubierta queda en su lugar. Parece mentira, son dos o tres milímetros pero hacen una gran diferencia.
Another smallness that I missed in the previous comment: if I cut the electrode with the central part of the pliers, the jump that occurs usually blows the cover. But if I do it with the throat, to be a lot more leverage the cut is much smoother and the cover is in place. It seems incredible, they are two to three millimeters but make a big difference.
12 years ago on Step 5
A simple and innovative solution. Very good. I think I will share this idea with some of my friends.
Reply 12 years ago on Step 5
Yes, especially when the pulse is not as strong as it should be. I use this tool daily, every time I change the electrode, and I find it almost indispensable.
Thanks, for comment!
12 years ago on Introduction
rimar2000 - I'm surprised no-one has thought to ask if you ensure your electrodes are thoroughly dry, or mention how to dry them.
I've known people TRY to use electrodes which have been open to the air for just a few days (but UK air can be very damp). I've put some of those electrodes in a hot oven, had a cup of tea (15 minutes will probably be enough time), removed a couple of electrodes (I would suggest with pliers), waved one around in the air for a minute to allow it to cool sufficiently to be handled, then welded with it without problem.
Even if you've only just bought them, the above is still worth doing - in my opinion.
Reply 12 years ago on Introduction
Thanks, john0, you are correct. My electrodes sometimes are damp, because here, near Buenos Aires, the wheather is damp. I have in my workshop a heater, so in winter I can put the electrodes directly over the flame, or over the little pilot flame if the heater is not on. I realized that when I don't make this, i.e. in hot wheather, it is more difficult to start the arc. I have too a cooktop, then I can use it to heat the electrodes. Appears that the drying temperature is not critical, I let them over the falme a bit while I prepare for welding, and it is usually sufficient.
13 years ago on Introduction
The 1/16 inch thick welding rods and the stainless steel welding rods are quite a bit shorter than the normal size of welding rod, and it is indeed easer to work with them when they are shorter. Both stainless steel and thin 1/16 inch rod have a higher than normal voltage drop.
Another solution to the long rods is to cut them in half. You need to clean about an inch of flux off of one piece, but that's not hard at all to do.
Reply 13 years ago on Introduction
Yeah, I've been cutting in half the electrodes, but there are three little problems: 1) electrode lost is twice normal, 2) time is lost, 3) the coating of the electrode is usually break at the tip , which makes the arc more difficult to initiate. Remember that I am an apprentice!
Reply 13 years ago on Introduction
does en the wood set on fire
Reply 13 years ago on Introduction
1450, have mercy on me, write me in English up correctly. You must consider that I speak only Spanish, and if you write me in slang I can not understand anything of what you mean.
Reply 13 years ago on Introduction
i had an an idea what about a cloth line thing and sorry