Introduction: Easy, Useful, 5 Minutes, Free, Stick-welding Tool (fýcil, Ýtil, 5 Minutos, Gratuita, Herramienta Para Soldadura Elýctrica)
El problema: Yo soy un aprendiz de soldador, y creo que lo seguiré siendo por el resto de mi vida. Uno de los problemas que tengo que enfrentar es mi mal pulso, sobre todo cuando el electrodo es nuevo y por lo tanto demasiado largo para poder manejarlo con precisión. Para solucionarlo, se me ocurrió el presente simple dispositivo.
The problem:I am an apprentice welder, and I think I will continue being for the rest of my life. One of the problems I have to face is my bad pulse, especially when the electrode is new and therefore too long to be handled with precision. To fix this, I thought this simple device.
The problem:I am an apprentice welder, and I think I will continue being for the rest of my life. One of the problems I have to face is my bad pulse, especially when the electrode is new and therefore too long to be handled with precision. To fix this, I thought this simple device.
Step 1: El Mango (the Handle)
Tomé un trozo de varilla de madera, en este caso de 2x2 cm, y unos 15 cm de largo. Las medidas son ajustables al gusto y a la mano de cada uno. Podría ser también un trozo redondo, de palo de escoba, por ejemplo.
I took a piece of stick, in this case of 2x2 cm and 15 cm long. The measures are adjustable to the taste and the hand of each. Could also be a round piece of broom handle, for instance.
Step 2: Los Agujeros (the Holes)
En un extremo del palito hice transversalmente un agujero del diámetro del electrodo más grueso que suelo usar, incluida la cobertura (4.5 mm). Perpendicularmente a este agujero, o sea sobre una de las caras adyacentes del palito, hice otro agujero un poco más grande (6 mm), con el centro desplazado unos dos milímetros hacia el extremo más alejado, de manera que interceptara parcialmente el primer agujero.
At one end of the stick I made a hole across, the diameter of the thicker electrode than I usually use, including coat (4.5 mm). Perpendicular to this hole, that is to say on one of the adjacent faces of the stick, I made another hole a little larger (6 mm), with the center shifted about two millimeters toward the far end, so that partially intercept the first hole.
Step 3: El Resorte (the Spring)
Busqué un trozo de unos 10 cm de varilla de acero aplanada. Podría haber usado un alambre redondo de acero, aplanado a martillazos, pero eso no es tan fácil como puede parecer. El resorte debe tener cierta dureza; si es muy blando y flexible no sirve. Atravesé con la varilla el segundo agujero, doblé un extremo y lo até con alambre delgado al mango, de manera que el cuerpo de la varilla se atraviese dentro del primer agujero. Es más fácil verlo que explicarlo. Doblé en forma de gatillo el otro extremo de la varilla de acero, para poder manejarlo con el dedo índice.
Agregado en julio 2011: El resorte no debe ser necesariamente plano, puede ser redondo.
I looked for a piece of about 10 cm flattened steel rod. I could have used a steel round wire, flattened with a hammer, but that's not as easy as it seems. The spring should have some hardness; if it is very soft and flexible, does not work. Crossed with the rod the second hole, bent one end and tied with thin wire to the handle, so that the body of the rod are crossed within the first hole. It is easier to see than to explain. I folded trigger-shaped the other end of the steel rod, to handle it with the index finger.
Added in July 2011: The spring need not be flat, can be round..
Agregado en julio 2011: El resorte no debe ser necesariamente plano, puede ser redondo.
I looked for a piece of about 10 cm flattened steel rod. I could have used a steel round wire, flattened with a hammer, but that's not as easy as it seems. The spring should have some hardness; if it is very soft and flexible, does not work. Crossed with the rod the second hole, bent one end and tied with thin wire to the handle, so that the body of the rod are crossed within the first hole. It is easier to see than to explain. I folded trigger-shaped the other end of the steel rod, to handle it with the index finger.
Added in July 2011: The spring need not be flat, can be round..
Step 4: C�mo Se Usa (how to Use It):
Al iniciar un nuevo electrodo, es decir cuando este es muy largo, se pasa la punta del electrodo por el agujero de 4.5mm del mango, y se sube este hasta aproximadamente la mitad del electrodo, o la distancia que quede cómoda. No se puede dejarlo muy cerca del extremo porque se quemaría rápidamente al soldar. Para colocar y sacar el mango, así como para corregir su posición, se aprieta el resorte, con lo cual se afloja la presión. Al soltarlo, el mango queda aprisionado al electrodo. Al momento de soldar, el peso del portaelectrodo debe ser sostenido con el antebrazo, mientras se maneja el electrodo con el manguito de madera.
To start a new electrode, that is to say when it is too long, the electrode tip passed through the 4.5mm hole of the handle, and goes this to about half of the electrode, or the distance that is comfortable. You can not leave it near the tip because welding will burn it quickly. To place and remove the handle, and to correct their position, tighten the spring, thus loosening the pressure. When released, the handle is bound to the electrode. When welding, the weight of the torch should be held with the forearm, while driving the electrode with the wooden handle.
Step 5: Aislemos, Por Las Dudas (Isolate, Just in Case):
Aunque la capa de material que cubre el electrodo no es buena conductora de la electricidad, no es mala idea aislar el resorte, para evitar que por cualquier imprevisto la corriente pase a la mano. Al efecto usé dos trozos de espaghetti termo-contraíble, uno sobre otro. Con cinta aisladora cubrí el alambre que fija el resorte al mango.
Although the coat of material covering the electrode is not a good conductor of electricity, not a bad idea to isolate the spring, to avoid any unforeseen the power pass on hand. To this end I used two pieces of heat-shrink spaghetti, one over another. With duct tape covered the wire that fixed the spring to the handle.
Although the coat of material covering the electrode is not a good conductor of electricity, not a bad idea to isolate the spring, to avoid any unforeseen the power pass on hand. To this end I used two pieces of heat-shrink spaghetti, one over another. With duct tape covered the wire that fixed the spring to the handle.