Introduction: Enchanted Wristguards (knitted Arm Warmers)
Enchantments sold separately :D
These wristguards will hold any minor enchantment - mentally recite the spell during cable rows and the double cables will hold it in place.*
Techniques: cabling, knitting in two colors, knitting in the round on double-pointed needles
This was actually one of the first times I've ever knit in two colors, and I think the second project I've ever done that had cables. I don't think you need to have cabled before to do this project.
For the knitting in two colors, I don't know if I'm doing it exactly right, but it turned out fine. When I switched yarns for the first time, I just let go of the yarn-ball end my first (green) yarn and picked up the second (orange) yarn (leaving a 10 to 15 cm tail of new yarn to weave in), and started knitting with the orange. Then when it was time to knit with the green yarn again, I let go of the orange and picked up the green from where it was hanging (at the last place where I stitched with it), and started knitting with green again. Knitting in two colors is WAY easier than I thought. Try it!
Abbreviations:
All my knitting abbreviations are standard - e.g.:
k8 = make eight knit stitches
p2 = make two purl stitches
sl = slip (that is, move a stitch over without knitting or purling it)
st = stitch(es)
* Results may vary. Spells will not function in universes where Magic plugin is not installed. Knitters are advised to check local laws of nature to avoid compatibility issues.
These wristguards will hold any minor enchantment - mentally recite the spell during cable rows and the double cables will hold it in place.*
Techniques: cabling, knitting in two colors, knitting in the round on double-pointed needles
This was actually one of the first times I've ever knit in two colors, and I think the second project I've ever done that had cables. I don't think you need to have cabled before to do this project.
For the knitting in two colors, I don't know if I'm doing it exactly right, but it turned out fine. When I switched yarns for the first time, I just let go of the yarn-ball end my first (green) yarn and picked up the second (orange) yarn (leaving a 10 to 15 cm tail of new yarn to weave in), and started knitting with the orange. Then when it was time to knit with the green yarn again, I let go of the orange and picked up the green from where it was hanging (at the last place where I stitched with it), and started knitting with green again. Knitting in two colors is WAY easier than I thought. Try it!
Abbreviations:
All my knitting abbreviations are standard - e.g.:
k8 = make eight knit stitches
p2 = make two purl stitches
sl = slip (that is, move a stitch over without knitting or purling it)
st = stitch(es)
* Results may vary. Spells will not function in universes where Magic plugin is not installed. Knitters are advised to check local laws of nature to avoid compatibility issues.
Step 1: Materials
worsted weight wool, two colors
(Extra points if you use UV-glow yarn - my green is Red Heart Kids, color 2652 Lime. Unfortunately I lost the label for my orange yarn so I don't know what kind it is. Take a blacklight keychain to the yarn store - lots of yarns glow even though it doesn't say so on the label! I got my yarn at Zellers.)
set of four 4.5mm double-pointed needles
(I like bamboo needles - my knitting gets too tight on metal needles, and something about the friction of yarn on plastic needles drives me up the wall - it's like fingernails on a chalkboard.)
cable needle
yarn needle
(big blunt needle with large eye for yarn to go through)
scissors
(Extra points if you use UV-glow yarn - my green is Red Heart Kids, color 2652 Lime. Unfortunately I lost the label for my orange yarn so I don't know what kind it is. Take a blacklight keychain to the yarn store - lots of yarns glow even though it doesn't say so on the label! I got my yarn at Zellers.)
set of four 4.5mm double-pointed needles
(I like bamboo needles - my knitting gets too tight on metal needles, and something about the friction of yarn on plastic needles drives me up the wall - it's like fingernails on a chalkboard.)
cable needle
yarn needle
(big blunt needle with large eye for yarn to go through)
scissors
Step 2: Sizing
Sizing:
My right arm is 16.5cm around at the narrowest part of my wrist, 21.5cm at the top of the wristguard, and 18.5cm around the base of my hand at the bottom of the wristguard. Pretty average for girl arms, I think. The wristguards have some stretch, but if your arms are a way different size than mine, consider adding or subtracting some stitches on the back of the wristguards. These added or subtracted stitches would go on the 2nd and/or 3rd needle.
My right arm is 16.5cm around at the narrowest part of my wrist, 21.5cm at the top of the wristguard, and 18.5cm around the base of my hand at the bottom of the wristguard. Pretty average for girl arms, I think. The wristguards have some stretch, but if your arms are a way different size than mine, consider adding or subtracting some stitches on the back of the wristguards. These added or subtracted stitches would go on the 2nd and/or 3rd needle.
Step 3: Knitting Instructions
Start with the yarn you want to be the dominant color.
Cast on 30 st using Cable Cast On method. Don't cast on too tight - I think if the edge is tight, the pointy bit at the wrist might not be so nice and pointy.
Join to knit in the round.
Knit two rows. Spread the stitches so the 1st needle has 12 stitches, and the 2nd & 3rd needles each have 9 stitches.
I tried not to knit too tightly, because I find tight knitting makes cables end up flat and less cool-looking. The phrase 'fluffy but not floppy' comes to mind. I purled fairly tightly though.
Row 3: p2, k2, switch to hilight color and k4, switch back to dominant color and k2, p2, k to end of row.
From now on: when you knit a stitch that was green in the last row, knit it with the green yarn; when you knit a stitch that was orange in the last row, knit it with the orange yarn.
When switching colors, don't pull the new yarn super tight across the back of your knitting. again I would go for "fluffy but not floppy".
*p2, k8, p2, k to end* 4 more times (call this Regular Row)
p2, sl next 2 st to cable needle & hold at back of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle, sl next 2 st to cable needle & hold at front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle, p2, k to end (call this Cable Row).
Regular Row 5 times
Cable Row
Regular Row 5 times
Cable Row
Regular Row 5 times
Knit 2 rounds using only your dominant color.
Bind off, not too tightly - let your bind-off stitches have about the same tension as the knit stitches in the row before them.
Use the yarn needle to weave loose yarn ends into like colored regions. This looks best if you use the basic idea of Duplicate Stitch to disguise your yarn ends.
Cast on 30 st using Cable Cast On method. Don't cast on too tight - I think if the edge is tight, the pointy bit at the wrist might not be so nice and pointy.
Join to knit in the round.
Knit two rows. Spread the stitches so the 1st needle has 12 stitches, and the 2nd & 3rd needles each have 9 stitches.
I tried not to knit too tightly, because I find tight knitting makes cables end up flat and less cool-looking. The phrase 'fluffy but not floppy' comes to mind. I purled fairly tightly though.
Row 3: p2, k2, switch to hilight color and k4, switch back to dominant color and k2, p2, k to end of row.
From now on: when you knit a stitch that was green in the last row, knit it with the green yarn; when you knit a stitch that was orange in the last row, knit it with the orange yarn.
When switching colors, don't pull the new yarn super tight across the back of your knitting. again I would go for "fluffy but not floppy".
*p2, k8, p2, k to end* 4 more times (call this Regular Row)
p2, sl next 2 st to cable needle & hold at back of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle, sl next 2 st to cable needle & hold at front of work, k2, then k2 from cable needle, p2, k to end (call this Cable Row).
Regular Row 5 times
Cable Row
Regular Row 5 times
Cable Row
Regular Row 5 times
Knit 2 rounds using only your dominant color.
Bind off, not too tightly - let your bind-off stitches have about the same tension as the knit stitches in the row before them.
Use the yarn needle to weave loose yarn ends into like colored regions. This looks best if you use the basic idea of Duplicate Stitch to disguise your yarn ends.