Introduction: Enzo the Bedside Lamp Bot

Before almost two years i submitted here my first Instructable The Spray Can Lamp. Let me introduce now the follow up called Enzo the Bedside Light Bot .

Like in the can-lamp there is no rocket science under the hood, so everyone who can handle a set of tools, a soldering iron and can print the parts, can build this lamp. The circuit is the same, but a new feature the "pee and undress-light" has added now.

The PAU light in this case, are the two additional Nichia Power LED in the eyes, who can be switched separate on. So they work as non-disturbing light, when your partner already is sleeping and you had to leave the bed for goto pee (again) or came later downstairs and have to undress and put on the pajama without fire up the super trouper.

The main light is, like in the can lamp, build with 4 Nichia 5mm Power LEDs where are strong enough to read analog books. The circuit is calculated that the LEDs draw @ 9 V ~ 75mA / each which is close to limit of 80 mA for this type. With 121 Lm / W (@ 80 mA) they are the most efficient LED you can get these days.

Also , i tried for this project the new Formfutura HD Glass filaments, who had an 80% transparency, which looks very cool, especially at the lampshade.

Step 1: Print Stuff and Hints..

I recommend to print all parts with min 0,2 mm layer height and 3 perimeters. The infill i set in slic3r to 20% with 3D honeycomb (new feature in Ver. 1.2.9)

The HD Glass filament is announced as "easy to print" material and has good physical properties like higher usable temperatures than common PLA and it is more flexible than PLA.

Also it can be printed on a non-heated bed. I get the best results printing on a glue stick (UHU) coated bed, head up to 35 deg Celsius. One layer should be enough.

Keep in mind, that the glue layer needs a new adjusting of the nozzle height.

Printing a transparent material like this, will show you some bad adjustments of your printer. I had to print many parts and had made many tests to get this final result. But that' s the world of prototyping ;)

Step 2: The Bom and the Tools

Parts who can not be printed - yet:

- LEDs 6x Nichia 5mm Power LED white

Type : NSDW570GS-K1

- 1 resistor 100 Ohm 1/4 W

- 1 resistor 15 Ohm 1/4 W

The 100 Ohm is for the PAU light. You may increase the amount if this light is too bright.

- 2 toggle switches with M6 neck. I used switches with extra long knobs. See attached pdf.

- A switching mode wall socket power supply with max 9Volts and min. 300 mA.

If you use a model with Voltage steps up to 12 Volt you may block the 12 V position. Otherwise the LEDs will blow very quick.

- Some thin cables.

- 3 M3 15mm Allen key screws - for the lampshade and the arm

- 3 M3 10mm Allen key screws - for the lid.

or screws with heads you prefer. To screw the lampshade you also can use countersunk head screws. Also you can cut longer screws before you buy those who fit in 100 pcs boxes.


Soldering iron for small stuff

a set of taper for 3 mm

drills : 3 mm, 2,5 mm, 4,8 mm

if available a hand drill

some files

a sharp knife for the edges

Screwdrivers of course

Step 3: Put It Together..the Mechanics

after you had print the parts, you have to cut the threads. Depending of your print, the thread-holes in the case and lamp cover have to be drilled out to 2,5 mm. The LED holes in for the eyes and in the lampshade with 5mm. For better fitting of the LED i took the 4,8 mm drill. For careful drilling i used a hand drill. Electric drills may destroy the 3 hour print in 0,5 sec.

Now cut the threads in a few steps and not in one turn. The swarf will otherwise clog the hole and lead into a bad thread. Maybe the screw holes had to be drilled up to 3 mm. Another way to make a nice thread in PLA is to place the screw at the hole by warming it up with a soldering iron. If it feels weak remove the iron and drill in the screw. After cooling down unscrew it.

Also you should file the edges of the lid, that it fits perfectly in the case.

take a look at the image notes..

Step 4: The Electronics..

before soldering all together there is a little challenge called: " mounting the two toggle switches". Many thanks to the cad-designer (me) for leaving this huge space for mounting.

Ok, let 's try it. Pick one switch an place the washer and the nut before in their space in the bottom part of the legs. Now guide the knob of the switch through the hole for the switch and the washer / nut then out of the case. The hardest part is now to place the washer and the nut on the neck of the switch, and tighten the nut. If you are done, you are able to land the next spaceship on mars without destroying the landing gear.

The position of the switches is set in sloping position, to prevent your fingers scratching over the wall, while using it.

Now lead in the supply wire in it' s hole on the bottom of the case and fix it with a small cable tie, to prevent the cable from get pulled out.

Solder the two resistors direct on the middle leg of the switch. Decide which switch will be for PAU and main light. For example: if you sleep at the left side (viewed from foot side) the PAU switch is good on left side.

Anyway the PAU needs the 100 Ohm and the main light the 15 ohm.

Stick in two of the famous LED in the eyes (in the lid) and four in the lampshade. Now solder the LED arrays of the eyes and the lampshade and the wirings in between. Take care for the polarity of the LEDs. Also refer to the schematic and the picture notes.

Step 5: Put It Together

After the test run has passed successfully, it' s time to finish the mounting.

Stick the arms in unlock position on the ring. turn the ring a bit so it will fix. Take care, the little pins may break easy. (The stl contains a set of two rings for sure) Now press the arms in the connector until they fit. The arms should be filed at the end where they get into the connector. Now lead the cables from the lampshade through the ring and the cover and screw it together. If all looks like in the fourth pic, it' s time to finish.

It' s a good idea if you do the following steps when the case is mounted on the wall. Depending to your wall (concrete or bricks) you have to drill plug holes before. The distance is exact 50 mm or almost 2 inch.

Now put all cable stuff inside and screw the lid with the three screws (Legs and mouth) Then place the connector with the lamp on the rod in the middle. The two screws in the legs are meant to block the lamp from turning around and drill he cables. Ok, place now the tiny cap on the top of the rod and drill in the screw to save the connector from falling off. Also the cap can be used as friction brake when the connector turns around too easy. To do this, carefully tighten the screw to the desired friction.

If all works fine it' s time to goto bed and enjoy the new sun over your head : )