Introduction: Wooden Resin Wall Art

About: I am a Building Automation Engineer at a major University in California. My favorite people in the world are my wife Bouavon, and my two beautiful sons Blaise and Dhylon. I am extremely creative and I am alway…

To learn more about the AMAZING WORX Pegasus CLICK HERE

Click the link above to grab your WO RX Pegasus with code 'SOCIALWOOD10' and you will get 10% off + free shipping!

Thank you WORX for sponsoring this Project!

Wood and Epoxy Inlay Sign + WORX Pegasus Giveaway Contest

To enter our Giveaway Contest to win a Brand New WORX Pegasus, please head on over to my Instagram Page, the contest details will be in my bio. https://www.instagram . com/socialwoodw... or search @socialwoodworks

This was my first time ever making an epoxy resin inlay sign and I was a little nervous to freehand route the lettering. The sign wasn't perfect but I think that it came out pretty decent and the freehand look has a ton of character. The #Pegasus came in really handy with its portability and built-in clamping system because it allowed me to do most of the dirty work outside my shop and save my lungs.

If you want to see how I built it, check out the full video HERE!

Tools and Materials used:

WORX P egasus

Scrap piece of Walnut

Epoxy Resin

Saw-tooth Hangers

Pearl Pigment Powder

Epoxy Mixing Cups

Acrylic Paint Set

Miter Saw

Tape Measure

Speed Square

Combination Square

Cordless Drill & Driver

Countersink Drill Bits


RZ Dust Mask


Canon T7i

Sony HX80

Action Cam


Shop Tripod

Gorilla Pod


Step 1: Getting Started

I decided to attempt to make a sign using my company name, Social Woodworks, so I found a font that looked easy enough to trace with my router and I printed it out. The font I chose was very plain and had lots of round edges because I knew that the router bits I had available wouldn't work with intricate letters.

Next, I dug out some scrap hardwood pieces that I had in my shop and found a piece of walnut that was gorgeous but also big enough to fit my letters. I trimmed off about an inch from each edge on my miter saw and glued the template onto my board with a glue stick. The glue stick held the template on very well but was also still pretty easy to peel off.

Step 2: Routing Time

I placed my project on a flat, non-stick, surface so I didn't have to worry about my project moving around while I routed out the design. I held the router with both hands as far down on the base as I could which gave me optimum control of movement. I turned the router on and began to slowly lower the cutting bit into the corner of the first letter. Since this was my first time trying this, my goal was to slowly just move the cutting tip as smooth as I could, until all of the black from the template was gone. My advice is to just take your time and make several passes if needed.

Once all of the black lettering from the template was routed out, I peeled the template off, and went back over each letter without the template to clean up any mistakes. The letters were certainly not perfect but for a rookie, I think I did pretty darn good. After I was happy with the letters, I used an Orbital Sander to remove the rest of the template.

Step 3: Epoxy Pouring

Another thing that I never tried was using epoxy so I figured, why not? The instructions in my epoxy kit said to mix 1 part resin to 1 part hardener, but the one thing I wasn't sure of was how much I would need to fill my sign. I made my best guess and mixed the epoxy per directions and added some metallic flakes and a touch of blue acrylic paint.

I did my best to slowly pour the epoxy into the cavities without making too much of a mess. The less epoxy that overflows on to the wood, the less clean up and sanding needed after it cures. I used a heat gun, you can also use a torch, to remove the air bubbles.

Step 4: Cure and Clean Up

I think the instructions in my epoxy kit said let cure for at least 12 hours but I let mine cure for 24 hours. I used a combination of card scraper, hand plane, and orbital sander to remove the excess epoxy. I finished sanding up to 220 grit and chamfered the edges of the sign at my routing table.

Step 5: Last But Not Least

Now that the sign is almost finished, I used mineral oil to protect the walnut and make the grain pop. I added 2 saw-tooth hangers in the back of the sign so I can hang up my masterpiece in my shop.

Thank you so much if you made it this far.

Please view all of the detailed photos, download the PDF, and watch the VIDEO for reference.

If you have any questions at all please leave a comment, and if you like this project PLEASE consider following my Instructables profile.