Introduction: Eventorbot! Open Source DIY 3D Printer. Free Plans
Eventorbot! Open source 3D printer. Simple with less materials. Frame is made of a single 4' long, 2 1/2" square tube (16 gauge/1.5mm/.0598" thick, cost: less then $20.00). With this design there is less plastic parts, stronger structure, all wires are hidden, and a more appealing/finish look.
The unit is supposed to resemble a robotic arm with hydraulic tubes. It was designed for prints to be less affected by vibrations. With the 1 solid frame, any vibrations of any axis will cause the other axis to move with it. For example: If the X axis causes a slight
vibration/1mm movement to the right, the Z and Y axis will also move that 1mm to the right. This will result in a better print as everything will remain squared.
Please like Facebook page for updates:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Eventorbot/111169638934671
Links to download plans:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28915
http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Eventorbot
For those who do not have access to a 3D printer. You can order the plastic parts and frame at:http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1874396831/eventorbot-open-source-3d-printer
==Lets start!==
(You will need to download the free google sketchup software to view the SKP files).
Blue print download: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85295
Metal frame and hothead bracket: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85781
Location of screws: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:86011
Parts list:
(1) 4' long, 2 1/2" metal square tube (this will be used for the main frame and the hot head mount). Diagram: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85781
(3) Nema 17 stepper motor (at least 3 kg-cm 4 Wire). Specs for current motors used PDF: http://eventorbot.com/pics/3%20kg-cm%204%20Wire%20NEMA%2017%20Stepper%20Motor.pdf
(1) Geared stepper motor for extruder. (more info soon).
(12) 8mm linear bearings, model: LM8UU. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/LM8UU.jpg
(4) 8mm ball bearing, model: 608Z. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/608Z.jpg
(1) 9 1/2" long 5/16 threaded rod (for Z axis). Note: Most likely you will have some leftover after your 9 1/2" cut, use that piece to cut a 13mm long piece for: http://eventorbot.com/pics/rod%20for%20extruder%20bearing.jpg
(6) 10.5" long 8mm rod. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/8mm%20linear%20rod.jpg
(1) Coupler 5mm to 8mm. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/5mm-8mm%20coupler.jpg
(1) Set of printed plastic parts (below ).
(optional) 1 set of printed decorative end caps (below).
(1) Set of screws. List: http://eventorbot.com/hardware.htm
(1) Sanguinololu 1.3a mother board with ramps. Ramps to be compatible to steppers (it should come with pin connectors and pins). Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/Sanguinololu%20board.jpg
(1) MK7 drive gear (gear to drive the filament). Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/mk7_drive_gear.jpg
(1) 4 foot of XL timing belt. PDF: http://eventorbot.com/pics/XL%20schematic.pdf
(4) Push button momentary end stop switches. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/Push%20button%20momentary%20switch.JPG
(1) Bed. Aluminum or pexi-glass 8.5" x 11", 1/8" thick. (thickness does not have to be exact). Diagram: http://eventorbot.com/pics/bed%20diagram.skp
(4) Springs for bed (this box should have all the springs you need for any circumstances: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100142075/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=springs&storeId=10051#.UDZP5tXDCSo
(8) Rubber feet (bore holes need to be able to allow 10-32 screws) Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/rubber%20feet.jpg
(1) Roll of 1/4" black poly tubing. Cut to: (1)14" for hothead wires, (1)20" for filament feeder, (1)12" for bed to mother board tray connection. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/hose.jpg
(6) Air pneumatic tube 6mm push in connector fittings. (Total Size 21mm x 12mm/ 0.82" x 0.47"(L*W) Thread Diameter 9mm/ 0.354) Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/hose%20connector.jpg
(1) 5.5 mm x 2.1mm DC power jack socket female panel mount connector. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/DC%20Power%20Jack.jpg NOTE: If you choose to use a hotbed, upgrade this jack to something that can handle at least 13amps. As for your power source, you can use a Xbox 360 power brick. Xbox 360 power brick is 16amp and is more then enough to handle the power (under $20.00).
(1) Laptop charger 12 volt DC at least 5 amp. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/power%20supply.jpg
(1) Hot end assembly (SKP file on diagram and how to build coming soon)
== Printable plastic parts ==
If you already own a 3d printer or know someone that does, here are the files. You can hire a third party to print these for you or purchase the parts online.
STL files and quantity's of prints:
(2) bed A p1 P-022: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85931
(2) bed A p2 P-023: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85932
(1) bed carriage p1 P-012: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85921
(1) bed carriage p2 P-013: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85922
(1) bed carriage p2 P-015: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85924
(1) bed carriage p3 P-014: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85936
(1) bed p1 P-020: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85929
(1) bed p2 P-021: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85930
(1) extruder housing P-002: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85911
(2) footing 1 P-009: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85917
(4) footing 2 P-010: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85918
(1) mother board tray P-003: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85912
(3) motor mount P-005: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85913
(2) pulley gear P-006: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85914
(2) rod support p1 P-016: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85925
(2) rod support p2 P-017: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85926
(1) spool holder P-011: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85919
(1) spool holder 2 P-011: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85920
(1) x carriage P-007: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85915
(1) x carriage part 2 P-008: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85916
(1) z carriage p1 P-018: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85927
(1) z carriage p2 P-019: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85928
Optional Decorative caps:
(2) corner cap P-001: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85933
(2) end cap P-004: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85934
--------------------------------------------
After you have finished the frame and have welded the corners together, you will also have to cut a 2.5" x 2.5" square on top of the frame (the corner caps will cover this corner).
IMG: http://js-kit.com/blob/4eJOmXdyTzqd4rIyxZwOGH.jpg
--------------------------------------------
Tutorial for build coming soon on youtube.
1st tutorial, Metal frame:
The unit is supposed to resemble a robotic arm with hydraulic tubes. It was designed for prints to be less affected by vibrations. With the 1 solid frame, any vibrations of any axis will cause the other axis to move with it. For example: If the X axis causes a slight
vibration/1mm movement to the right, the Z and Y axis will also move that 1mm to the right. This will result in a better print as everything will remain squared.
Please like Facebook page for updates:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Eventorbot/111169638934671
Links to download plans:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28915
http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Eventorbot
For those who do not have access to a 3D printer. You can order the plastic parts and frame at:http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1874396831/eventorbot-open-source-3d-printer
==Lets start!==
(You will need to download the free google sketchup software to view the SKP files).
Blue print download: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85295
Metal frame and hothead bracket: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85781
Location of screws: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:86011
Parts list:
(1) 4' long, 2 1/2" metal square tube (this will be used for the main frame and the hot head mount). Diagram: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85781
(3) Nema 17 stepper motor (at least 3 kg-cm 4 Wire). Specs for current motors used PDF: http://eventorbot.com/pics/3%20kg-cm%204%20Wire%20NEMA%2017%20Stepper%20Motor.pdf
(1) Geared stepper motor for extruder. (more info soon).
(12) 8mm linear bearings, model: LM8UU. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/LM8UU.jpg
(4) 8mm ball bearing, model: 608Z. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/608Z.jpg
(1) 9 1/2" long 5/16 threaded rod (for Z axis). Note: Most likely you will have some leftover after your 9 1/2" cut, use that piece to cut a 13mm long piece for: http://eventorbot.com/pics/rod%20for%20extruder%20bearing.jpg
(6) 10.5" long 8mm rod. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/8mm%20linear%20rod.jpg
(1) Coupler 5mm to 8mm. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/5mm-8mm%20coupler.jpg
(1) Set of printed plastic parts (below ).
(optional) 1 set of printed decorative end caps (below).
(1) Set of screws. List: http://eventorbot.com/hardware.htm
(1) Sanguinololu 1.3a mother board with ramps. Ramps to be compatible to steppers (it should come with pin connectors and pins). Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/Sanguinololu%20board.jpg
(1) MK7 drive gear (gear to drive the filament). Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/mk7_drive_gear.jpg
(1) 4 foot of XL timing belt. PDF: http://eventorbot.com/pics/XL%20schematic.pdf
(4) Push button momentary end stop switches. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/Push%20button%20momentary%20switch.JPG
(1) Bed. Aluminum or pexi-glass 8.5" x 11", 1/8" thick. (thickness does not have to be exact). Diagram: http://eventorbot.com/pics/bed%20diagram.skp
(4) Springs for bed (this box should have all the springs you need for any circumstances: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100142075/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=springs&storeId=10051#.UDZP5tXDCSo
(8) Rubber feet (bore holes need to be able to allow 10-32 screws) Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/rubber%20feet.jpg
(1) Roll of 1/4" black poly tubing. Cut to: (1)14" for hothead wires, (1)20" for filament feeder, (1)12" for bed to mother board tray connection. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/hose.jpg
(6) Air pneumatic tube 6mm push in connector fittings. (Total Size 21mm x 12mm/ 0.82" x 0.47"(L*W) Thread Diameter 9mm/ 0.354) Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/hose%20connector.jpg
(1) 5.5 mm x 2.1mm DC power jack socket female panel mount connector. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/DC%20Power%20Jack.jpg NOTE: If you choose to use a hotbed, upgrade this jack to something that can handle at least 13amps. As for your power source, you can use a Xbox 360 power brick. Xbox 360 power brick is 16amp and is more then enough to handle the power (under $20.00).
(1) Laptop charger 12 volt DC at least 5 amp. Pic: http://eventorbot.com/pics/power%20supply.jpg
(1) Hot end assembly (SKP file on diagram and how to build coming soon)
== Printable plastic parts ==
If you already own a 3d printer or know someone that does, here are the files. You can hire a third party to print these for you or purchase the parts online.
STL files and quantity's of prints:
(2) bed A p1 P-022: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85931
(2) bed A p2 P-023: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85932
(1) bed carriage p1 P-012: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85921
(1) bed carriage p2 P-013: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85922
(1) bed carriage p2 P-015: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85924
(1) bed carriage p3 P-014: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85936
(1) bed p1 P-020: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85929
(1) bed p2 P-021: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85930
(1) extruder housing P-002: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85911
(2) footing 1 P-009: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85917
(4) footing 2 P-010: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85918
(1) mother board tray P-003: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85912
(3) motor mount P-005: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85913
(2) pulley gear P-006: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85914
(2) rod support p1 P-016: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85925
(2) rod support p2 P-017: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85926
(1) spool holder P-011: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85919
(1) spool holder 2 P-011: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85920
(1) x carriage P-007: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85915
(1) x carriage part 2 P-008: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85916
(1) z carriage p1 P-018: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85927
(1) z carriage p2 P-019: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85928
Optional Decorative caps:
(2) corner cap P-001: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85933
(2) end cap P-004: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:85934
--------------------------------------------
After you have finished the frame and have welded the corners together, you will also have to cut a 2.5" x 2.5" square on top of the frame (the corner caps will cover this corner).
IMG: http://js-kit.com/blob/4eJOmXdyTzqd4rIyxZwOGH.jpg
--------------------------------------------
Tutorial for build coming soon on youtube.
1st tutorial, Metal frame:
22 Comments
6 years ago
has anyone made one of these? and if so how did you go?
8 years ago on Introduction
hey guys! which is te best configuration for slic3r?
8 years ago on Introduction
I have just begun to think of building one myself. I have started taking apart old printers in search of part . I have listed parts i i take them apart. here
http://diysourcing.com/
I also wounder if one could us the controller boards from the printers on a 3d printer.
9 years ago on Introduction
great design! what about programming?
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
printer's controller?
9 years ago
All together, how much do all the printed parts weigh? I need to know in order print them.
Thanks in advance
10 years ago
I agree with robotteen.
10 years ago on Introduction
how much would this cost of the project all together? how well does this printer work with smaller parts?
10 years ago
All together, how much did this cost to build?
10 years ago on Introduction
how do you make the mother board.awsome project man. keep it up
10 years ago on Introduction
Hey Eventorbot, I like your design because of the c suport and the size of the printable area or volume,
but, why havent you created lets say a bigger printer? It´s te same software I suppose.
I´m an architect and i dream with having mi building models printed at full 1:100 scale, without triming aparta every part of it.
When beside kikstarter will we able to purchase one of your printer? or the parts
10 years ago on Introduction
Very nice indeed! I found a company which can print the files your provided for us but they asked if the measurements are in mm or in inches :)
Thanks
11 years ago on Introduction
This is Hans from the Netherlands,
Iâm very impressed by jour design, looks slick and simple to construct.
Especially your design solution for the extruder has my interest.
Iâm planning to transform my small CNC router into a 3D printer,
Also using the Sanguinololu 1.3a mother board.
Please can you inform me about the geared stepper motor you are using.
The brand and where to obtain it.
Thanks very much, Hans
Reply 11 years ago on Introduction
Please view this facebook post:
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=447167182001580&id=111169638934671
Reply 11 years ago on Introduction
Thanks Eventorbot, this answers my question.
11 years ago on Introduction
Eventorbot has met its funding goal!
Well, I'm speechless and overwhelmed with all the support. I will like to say a BIG thank you for all the support, kind words, and to all the backers. To be able to share and have your interest in something I created is a great feeling. Everyone of you guys have made something that was a big dream become reality. Eventorbot, as a 3D printer is now going to happen! You will have no regrets in owning a Eventorbot, our machine will be a strong contender.
Thank you... thank you... thank you...
11 years ago on Introduction
looks nice! would love to see some step by step documentation of the build. Can you tell me a little more about the specs of the printer? how big is the printable surface, how high? how fast does it print? what's the total cost of materials?
Reply 11 years ago on Introduction
I'm currently working on video tutorials (http://www.youtube.com/user/eventorbot).
The print is currently 6"x6"x6", this can easily be increase. I have not fully tested its speed. It is currently printing at pronterface's original setting with no problem, and is confident it can print faster. DIY $300-$500.
11 years ago on Introduction
Awesome! Eventorbot is currently on the homepage of: http://makezine.com/
11 years ago on Introduction
UPDATE:
Okay, so here is my current plans. I'm going to finish the tutorial videos and plans first (http://www.youtube.com/user/eventorbot should not take more then 3 videos). After that I will contact my metal company and see if they can use their plasma cutter to make the cuts and holes we need for our frames.
For those who do not have access to a 3D printer. I have had experience making molds and using urethane plastic. I will try to make molds of the plastic parts and mold it with urethane plastic. This plastic is very rigid and durable, and is equal or better then ABS.
Note: For those who have 3d printers. The main bed, that supports the linear rods will also be available, as many printers are not able to print it because of the size.