FISH TANK -- Part of Aquaponic Balcony Garden

The fish tank is where the fish and fish water for the growing of plants resides. It also houses three (3) automation elements - first being a Ultra Sonic Distance Sensor this allows for very specific measurement of exactly where water level is in fish tank is at all times, a DS18B20 Temperature Probe - provides fish water temperature and a analog Float Switch - back-up and in support of the Ultra Sonic element. Also located within the fish tank is pump input connection and water pump that provides filtered and bio-treated water to the grow bed through the Overflow prevention mechanism into the grow bed. Drain return from the grow bed also flows back into the fish tank and has 1" inch tubing and insert fittings that help accomplish this task and are attached to the secured cover part of the build. A removable cover is part of the fish tank as well. The yellow revolvable cover provides a dual function. First helping to keep out unwanted items that could fall into the fish tank as well as critters that might want to eat the fish. The other function is the yellow lid allows light to pass though and fish are able to sense the difference between day and night very important to overall fish health and general well being of the fish you chose to nurture in the system. The last item found in the fish tank is the outlet opening. The basic function of this is to provide an opening the fish water can be pulled through the filtration and bio-treatment components and then pumped into the grow bed to provide nutrients to plants. If you have small fish in the system this opening needs to have a protective device that the water is pulled through, but will to allow small fish to be sucked into the opening. If you are using large fish that are strong swimmers this device is not need as much as the fish will be strong enough to swim away from any sucking action caused by the pump draw through the system components. It should be pointed out the the fish tank also provides support of the grow bed platform which the grow bed container sits on and is supported.

POINT OF INTEREST REGARDING WATER FLOW FROM FISH TANK:

NO tank water is actual being pulled into the pump via the fish tank. The pump is supplied water only after being pulled through the SOLIDS FILTER and the BIO-REACTOR. The pump is located in the fish tank only as a convent way to deliver water to the grow bed using the opening already provided by the Grow Bed Overflow Prevention Mechanism. Gives the system a design efficiency and allows for a much smaller overall footprint of the

BALCONY GARDEN. FISH TANK OPTION:

In most if not all the photos of the BALCONY GARDEN the inside of the fish tank is white. When purchased the fish tank is not white inside. The inside of the fish tank has been painted with a rubberized coating material. If this look is desired in a build make sure to use food and fish safe materials to accomplish this effect. In the resource STEP of this guide you will find detail resource as to what to use and links to the MSDS on the material used for this build.

AS A FEATURED PROJECT IN MAKE MAGAZINE - vol 47

PROCESS IMPROVEMENTS:
At anytime improvements to this build can be made. These improvements can and will take many different forms. When new tricks are learned or better parts are sourced changes will be made. Updates will be made at aquaponic DIY Automation Blog and the new ideas - parts or changes will be updated in this Instructable. So please send in your ideas and modifications and design changes can and will be made if they are of value to others interested in this project.

VISIT STORE FOR ITEMS TALKED ABOUT HERE:

AGponics Store

Step 1: Start With -- Fish Tank Container

The main thrust of the Balcony Garden is to provide sourcing of materials for the project locally and adhere to the basics of aquaponics. Using two 27-gallon tote bins allows for the first rule of aquaponics media based system to be followed. That rule is "There should be a 1:1 relationship between grow-bed and fish tank. The 27- gallon tote bin has a very small footprint and can be purchased at all major big box stores and Costco as well.

It must be pointed out that not all 27-gallon tote bins are created equal. Each source you go to carries a different designed tote. They all look the same from a distance - Black body and Yellow top. Fact is that the Yellow tops have different design configuration - some are square - some are diamonds. The Black bin bodies are very different as well. This is important to know because it impacts placement of the key components of the Fish Tank. In order to be able to seal the Fish Tank at the penetration points it is critical that a flat surface is used. This will change placement of the Fish Tank Inlet and Outlet as well as pump. Depending which 27-gallon tote bin being used and where it was purchased from. It also needs to be pointed out the re-sellers change manufactures and manufactures change there designs quite often. SO BEWARE ABOUT THIS FACT. This is no big deal if you are going to only make one of these, but if a bin breaks or gets damaged make sure to match up the first tote bin with any new tote bins purchased or the placement of the key components of the Fish Tank will not match the original pass through holes for Fish Tank Inlet and Outlet as well as the pump.

BEWARE - BEWARE SOURCES OF TOTE BINS:

27-Gallon Tote with Standard Snap Lid

http://www.lowes.com/pd_44066-61896-44066___?prod...

Homz 27-Gallon Tough Tote, Black/Yellow, Set of 4

http://www.lowes.com/pd_44066-61896-44066___?prod...

27 Gal. Storage Tote in Black -- HDX Model # HDX27GONLINE(5) Internet # 206126311 http://www.lowes.com/pd_44066-61896-44066___?prod...

Step 2: INLET -- FISH TANK -- Part of Aquaponic Balcony GARDEN

The inlet is area in which the processed water is supplied to the pump to be delivered to the grow-bed. This process water provides the nutrients for plant growth.

More details will be added shortly for this part of the build. This needed to be referenced for the Make Magazine vol. 47 issue and on the Make Project Page for additional build details specific to the Fish Tank Inlet construction.

PROCESS IMPROVEMENTS:
At anytime improvements to this build can be made. These improvements can and will take many different forms. When new tricks are learned or better parts are sourced changes will be made. Updates will be made at aquaponic DIY Automation Blog and the new ideas - parts or changes will be updated in this Instructable. So please send in your ideas and modifications and design changes can and will be made if they are of value to others interested in this project.

VISIT STORE FOR ITEMS TALKED ABOUT HERE:

AGponics Store

Step 3: OUTLET -- FISH TANK -- Part of Aquaponic Balcony GARDEN

Fish water exits the Fish Tank at this point. From here the water enters into the SOLIDS FILTER on it's way to the grow-bed.

PROCESS IMPROVEMENTS: At anytime improvements to this build can be made. These improvements can and will take many different forms. When new tricks are learned or better parts are sourced changes will be made. Updates will be made at aquaponic DIY Automation Blog and the new ideas - parts or changes will be updated in this Instructable. So please send in your ideas and modifications and design changes can and will be made if they are of value to others interested in this project.

VISIT STORE FOR ITEMS TALKED ABOUT HERE:

AGpomics Store

Step 4: TANK LID -- FISH TANK -- Part of Aquaponic Balcony GARDEN

The lid to the Fish Tank provides support to the Fish Tank as well as a secure structure for sensors and return grow-bed water to be re-used by the total BALCONY GARDEN. Operational features are designed into these important part of the BALCONY GARDEN.

PROCESS IMPROVEMENTS: At anytime improvements to this build can be made. These improvements can and will take many different forms. When new tricks are learned or better parts are sourced changes will be made. Updates will be made at aquaponic aquaponic DIY Automation Blog and the new ideas - parts or changes will be updated in this Instructable. So please send in your ideas and modifications and design changes can and will be made if they are of value to others interested in this project.

VISIT STORE FOR ITEMS TALKED ABOUT HERE:

AGponic Store

Step 5: PUMP PLACEMENT & CONNECTION -- FISH TANK -- Part of Aquaponic Balcony GARDEN

Pump placement is driven by a number of factors in the build of the BALCONY GARDEN. First being the positioning of the OVERFLOW PIPE from the grow-bed and this determines the inlet hole that delivers processed water from the BIO-REACTOR.

PROCESS IMPROVEMENTS: At anytime improvements to this build can be made. These improvements can and will take many different forms. When new tricks are learned or better parts are sourced changes will be made. Updates will be made at aquaponic aquaponic DIY Automation Blog and the new ideas - parts or changes will be updated in this Instructable. So please send in your ideas and modifications and design changes can and will be made if they are of value to others interested in this project.

VISIT STORE FOR ITEMS TALKED ABOUT HERE:

AGponics Store

Step 6: AIR-PUMP PLACEMENT -- FISH TANK -- Part of Aquaponic Balcony GARDEN

Air pump provides an air source for the BIO-REACTOR and is attached to the center plate of the Fish Tank. This is a secure location and is up and away from any possibility of standing water should a leak or overflow of the grow-bed occur.

PROCESS IMPROVEMENTS: At anytime improvements to this build can be made. These improvements can and will take many different forms. When new tricks are learned or better parts are sourced changes will be made. Updates will be made at aquaponic DIY Automation Blog and the new ideas - parts or changes will be updated in this Instructable. So please send in your ideas and modifications and design changes can and will be made if they are of value to others interested in this project.

VISIT STORE FOR ITEMS TALKED ABOUT HERE:

AGponics Store

Step 7: SENSORS -- FISH TANK -- Part of Aquaponic Balcony GARDEN

PLEASE VISIT THIS INSTRUCTABLE FOR CONSTRUCTION OF THE SENSOR:

SENSOR SET TESTING SKETCHES -- for aquaponic Balcony Garden

The FLOAT SWITCH is not a common or standard sensor found in arduino projects. If you do a Google search you will find very little information on how they operate or how to connect them up in an aquaponics system. This switch is found in the Fish Tank of the Balcony Garden. The switch feeds into the RJ-45 housing where connections are made that allow the switch signal to be passed on to the micro-controller for processing and data display in where in the world (if using the IoT version of this garden).

THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT THE SWITCH:

Make sure you use a 10 ohm resistor with these switches.

These are "ANALOG" read sensors - so be aware of this fact.

The Switch returns only one of two values:

Either 0 or 1023 -- the read depends on how you position the switch in the tank.

It should be that when at the high level the switch reads 1023.

But it can be reversed if a person want to for some reason.

WIRES on Sensor:

1. YELLOW - 5 volt source (red wire)

2. SIGNAL -- Yellow Make sure you learn how these operate before connecting these switches in to a system.

Collect all the parts

A. Tank Pool Liquid Level Sensor Right Angle Float Switch

http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Level-Sensor-Right-S...

ACTION -

1 Drill hole for the Float Switch in the Fish Tank. Depending where the Float Switch is purchased from determines the hole size. Measure the Float Switch purchased to determine the hole size. Not every manufacture uses the same threads.

ACTION - 2

Insert Float Switch into drilled hole making sure the silicon washer is on the inside of the fish tank then screw on the nut on the outside side of fish tank

IMPORTANT --- TEST -- TEST -- TEST -- TEST This cannot be stressed enough --

Test sensors when you purchase them Test sensors after each action to insure the connections are working and the test code returns correct results. Should the tested sensor not give data output then corrections need to be made before moving forward to next action.

Again TEST - TEST - TEST - will save much time in the long run.

CODE TO TESTING THE SWITCH:

<p>// Simple Float Switch Test - Balcony Garden<br>
// Sketch to determine values for FLOAT SENSOR</p><p>// FLOAR SENSOR 001 = FS-001</p><p>int FS_001 = 0;</p><p>int FS_001_val;</p><p>void setup()</p><p>{</p><p>  Serial.begin(115200);    // open serial port</p><p>}</p><p>void loop() {</p><p>  FS_001_val = analogRead(FS_001);   // read value from Float Sensor 001</p><p>  Serial.print("Float Sensor 001 value is:      ");</p><p>  Serial.println(FS_001_val);</p><p>  delay(1000);</p><p>  Serial.println();
}</p>

The ULTRA SONIC - DISTANCE SENSOR is a very common and standard sensor found in almost all arduino projects of this type. Just do an Google search about if you have no idea what it can do or how to use it.

This Sensor is found in the mounted to the attache lid of the Fish Tank that is covered by the Grow Bed of the Balcony Garden. It is housed in a 2" black ABS pipe positioned above the fish tank.

Both ends of the housing can be removed as this gives easy access to the sensor in the event that the sensor fails at anytime. This easy access allows for the sensor to be replaced if need be.

PINS on Sensor:

1. VCC - 5 volt source (red wire)

2. TRIGGER - (signal) -- Green / white wire your choice - just make sure you use different color for each PIN

3. ECHO - (singal) -- Blue / White wire your choice - just make sure you use different color for each PIN

4. Ground (black wire)

<p>/ Ultra Sonic Sensor Testing - new ping<br>
// ---------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p>// Example NewPing library sketch that does a ping about 20 times per second.</p><p>// ---------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p>#include </p><p>#define TRIGGER_PIN  12  // Arduino pin tied to trigger pin on the ultrasonic sensor.</p><p>#define ECHO_PIN     11  // Arduino pin tied to echo pin on the ultrasonic sensor.</p><p>#define MAX_DISTANCE 200 // Maximum distance we want to ping for (in centimeters). Maximum sensor distance is rated at 400-500cm.</p><p>NewPing sonar(TRIGGER_PIN, ECHO_PIN, MAX_DISTANCE); // NewPing setup of pins and maximum distance.</p><p>void setup() {</p><p>  Serial.begin(115200); // Open serial monitor at 115200 baud to see ping results.</p><p>}</p><p>void loop() {</p><p>  delay(50);                      // Wait 50ms between pings (about 20 pings/sec). 29ms should be the shortest delay between pings.</p><p>  unsigned int uS = sonar.ping(); // Send ping, get ping time in microseconds (uS).</p><p>  Serial.print("Ping: ");</p><p>  Serial.print(uS / US_ROUNDTRIP_CM); // Convert ping time to distance in cm and print result (0 = outside set distance range)</p><p>  Serial.println("cm");
}</p>

The DS18B20 is a very common and standard sensor found in almost all arduino projects. Just do an Google search about if you have no idea what it can do or how to use it.

This Sensor is found in the Fish Tank and Grow Bed of the Balcony Garden. It is joined in each container using a cable gland that makes the connection watertight. The probes feed into the RJ-45 housing where connections are made that allow the sensors to be passed on to the micro-controller for processing and data display in where in the world (if using the IoT version of this garden). Make sure you use a 4.7ohm resistor (PULL-UP configuration) with these probes. See directions below and also learn more about this probe at:

aquaponic DIY Automation Blog

LEVELS OF TESTING:

First level:

First of test is to determine the HEX code of the individual probe. Make sure you write down the HEX giving off by the "Finder" Sketch below. This HEX code will be used in the system wide test for temperature in both the Fish Tank and Grow Ben in latter testing of wires and sensors.

Second Level:

This is a Sketch that will use both HEX code from the first level above. You will need to replace the HEX code in the Sketch with your on HEX code or you will get no readings and be presented with an error when checking for the temperatures in the Fish Tank and Grow Bed.

PLEASE VISIT THIS INSTRUCTABLE FOR CONSTRUCTION OF THE SENSOR: DS18B2O-Temperature-probe:

DS18B20 Temp Sensor

PINS on Sensor:

1. VCC - 5 volt source (red wire)

2. Data - (signal) -- yellow - white - blue - green - orange wire depends on where you buy them and from whom

3. Ground (black wire) Collect all the parts

A. Vktech DS18b20 Waterproof Temperature Sensors Temperature Transmitter (5pcs) http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-DS18b20-Waterproof-T...

B. PG7 Waterproof Connector Gland Black for 4-7mm Diameter Cable --

http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-DS18b20-Waterproof-T...

ACTION - 1

Using the 27/64-inch Drill Bit -- drill hole on the sensor side of Fish Tank and Grow Bed. See instruction sets for the Fish Tank and Grow Bed for the exact placement of the cable glands.

ACTION - 2

Insert cable gland in to drilled hole in Fish Tank and Grow Bed.

ACTION - 3

Place Cable Gland Nut on outside of Fish Tank and Grow Bed and seal with sealant

VERY IMPORTANT --- TEST -- TEST -- TEST -- TEST

This cannot be stressed enough --

************* Test sensors when you purchase them Test sensors after each action to insure the connections are working and the test code returns correct results.

Should the tested sensor not give data output then corrections need to be made before moving forward to next action.

Again TEST - TEST - TEST - will save much time in the long run.

CODE WILL REPORT OUT TEMPERATURE OF FISH TANK AND GROW BED:

<p>// This Arduino sketch reads DS18B20 "1-Wire" digital<br>// Balcony Unit - IoT - aquaponics --  AGponics.com Temperature Sensors Testing Sketch.
// Ver.05.10.2015
// Tutorial:
// <a href="http://www.hacktronics.com/Tutorials/arduino-1-wire-tutorial.html" rel="nofollow">  http://www.hacktronics.com/Tutorials/arduino-1-wi...></p><p>#include 
#include </p><p>// Data wire is plugged into pin 3 on the Arduino
#define ONE_WIRE_BUS 8</p><p>// Setup a oneWire instance to communicate with any OneWire devices
OneWire oneWire(ONE_WIRE_BUS);</p><p>// Pass our oneWire reference to Dallas Temperature. 
DallasTemperature sensors(&oneWire);</p><p>// Assign the addresses of your 1-Wire temp sensors.
// See the tutorial on how to obtain these addresses:
// <a href="http://www.hacktronics.com/Tutorials/arduino-1-wire-address-finder.html" rel="nofollow">  http://www.hacktronics.com/Tutorials/arduino-1-wi...></p><p>DeviceAddress Grow_Bed = { 0x28, 0x3A, 0x28, 0x41, 0x05, 0x00, 0x00, 0xA0 };
DeviceAddress Fish_Tank = { 0x28, 0xE9, 0X23, 0x41, 0x05, 0x00, 0x00, 0x4D }; 
// DeviceAddress Other_If_Needed = { 0x28, 0x59, 0xBE, 0xDF, 0x02, 0x00, 0x00, 0x9F };</p><p>void setup(void)
{
  // start serial port
  Serial.begin(115200);
  // Start up the library
  sensors.begin();
  // set the resolution to 10 bit (good enough?)
  sensors.setResolution(Grow_Bed, 10);
  sensors.setResolution(Fish_Tank, 10);
  //sensors.setResolution(Other_If_Needed, 10);
}</p><p>void printTemperature(DeviceAddress deviceAddress)
{
  float tempC = sensors.getTempC(deviceAddress);
  if (tempC == -127.00) {
    Serial.print("Error getting temperature");
  } else {
    Serial.print("C: ");
    Serial.print(tempC);
    Serial.print(" F: ");
    Serial.print(DallasTemperature::toFahrenheit(tempC));
  }
}</p><p>void loop(void)
{ 
  delay(2000);
  Serial.print("Getting temperatures...\n\r");
  sensors.requestTemperatures();
  
  Serial.print("Grow Bed is: ");
  printTemperature(Grow_Bed);
  Serial.print("\n\r");
  Serial.print("Fish Tank temperature is: ");
  printTemperature(Fish_Tank);
  Serial.print("\n\r");
  // Serial.print("Other_If_Needed is: ");
  // printTemperature(Other_If_Needed);
  // Serial.print("\n\r\n\r");
}</p>

CODE TO TEST SENSOR & DETERMINE HEX CODE OF EACH PROBE:

<p>// This sketch looks for 1-wire devices and<br>// prints their addresses (serial number) to
// the UART, in a format that is useful in Arduino sketches
// Tutorial: 
// <a href="http://www.hacktronics.com/Tutorials/arduino-1-wire-address-finder.html" rel="nofollow">  http://www.hacktronics.com/Tutorials/arduino-1-wi...></p><p>#include </p><p>OneWire  ds(8);  // Connect your 1-wire device to pin 8</p><p>void setup(void) {
  Serial.begin(115200);
  discoverOneWireDevices();
}</p><p>void discoverOneWireDevices(void) {
  byte i;
  byte present = 0;
  byte data[12];
  byte addr[8];
  
  Serial.print("Looking for 1-Wire devices...\n\r");
  while(ds.search(addr)) {
    Serial.print("\n\rFound \'1-Wire\' device with address:\n\r");
    for( i = 0; i < 8; i++) {
      Serial.print("0x");
      if (addr[i] < 16) {
        Serial.print('0');
      }
      Serial.print(addr[i], HEX);
      if (i < 7) {
        Serial.print(", ");
      }
    }
    if ( OneWire::crc8( addr, 7) != addr[7]) {
        Serial.print("CRC is not valid!\n");
        return;
    }
  }
  Serial.print("\n\r\n\rThat's it.\r\n");
  ds.reset_search();
  return;
}</p><p>void loop(void) {
  // nothing to see here
}</p>

Step 8: TRANSITION BLOCK -- FISH TANK -- Part of Aquaponic Balcony GARDEN

TRANSITION BLOCK function is to cover sensor wiring and allows the transition and connections of the sensors and helps to prevent water intrusion into the wiring connections. Should water penetrate and collect around the connection points the sensors will not work.

VISIT STORE FOR ITEMS TALKED ABOUT HERE:

AGponics Store

BALCONY GARDEN - is featured as a Project in MAKE MAGAZINE - vol 47 starting on page 62

Step 9: SENSOR MOUNTING -- FISH TANK -- Part of the BALCONY GARDEN

In order for sensors to perform correctly they need to be installed and leak proof. Using the correct hole sizes and sealant is a very good idea. If water should penetrate the Transition Block make it way to the inter-connections points sensors will stop working and need to be replaced. At any time sensors not report readings all the connections need to be checked and TESTED to determine signals are being send and received.

VISIT STORE FOR ITEMS TALKED ABOUT HERE:

AGponics Store

BALCONY GARDEN - is featured as a Project in MAKE MAGAZINE - vol 47 starting on page 62

Step 10: RESISTOR TERMINALS -- GROW-BED -- Part of Aquaponic Balcony GARDEN

Resistors are very important to sensors working in all systems. They are usually added or designed into the sensors. The grow-bed sensors require resistors be added at some point in the wiring and sensor connection process. In this case the resistors are being place closed to the sensors that require them. There are many ways to connect resistors to sensors. Everyone has a way or their own way to accomplish this task. Not all of them are easy to use or replaceable. Both of these characteristics are very important for this build. The solution for the grow-bed is a a very sound design and allows for parts and sensors to easily be replaced should a malfunction occur (which they do).

ACTION 1 --
Pull the parts together.

PARTS: 12-Position European-Style Mini Terminal Strip - Radio Shack

http://comingsoon.radioshack.com/12-position-euro...

Resistor Carbon Film 10k Ohm 1/4 Watt 5%

http://comingsoon.radioshack.com/12-position-euro...

Resistor Carbon Film 4.7k Ohm 1/4 Watt 5% (In Bags of 10 and 100)

http://comingsoon.radioshack.com/12-position-euro...

Plasti Dip Synthetic Rubber Coating -- RED / BLACK / BLUE / YELLOW

http://comingsoon.radioshack.com/12-position-euro...

Magic Sculpt Resin - Tap Plastics --

http://comingsoon.radioshack.com/12-position-euro...

TOOLS:

Dremel 7700-1/15 MultiPro 7.2-Volt Cordless Rotary Tool Kit

http://comingsoon.radioshack.com/12-position-euro...

Dremel EZ406-02 1 1/2-Inch EZ Lock Rotary Tool Cut-Off Wheel and Mandrel Metal Cutting Starter Kit http://comingsoon.radioshack.com/12-position-euro...

Pocket Autoranging Digital Multimeter

http://comingsoon.radioshack.com/12-position-euro...

ACTION 2 --
Make two (2) individual "TERMINAL UNITS" from the larger terminal block that was scourced

ACTION 3 --

Cut out a small amount plastic from of the bottom of the "TERMINAL UNITS" created in ACTION 2 between the individual sections of the "TERMINAL UNIT".

ACTION 4 --

Press resistor into gap created in ACTION 3 - bend wire opposite directions around each terminal section.

ACTION 5 --

Bend resistor wire 180 degrees and insert resistor wire through gap between metal terminal holder and plastic housing - resistor wire will come out the other end. Now bend the end sticking out back on to metal terminal holder and solider for the best connection

ACTION 6 --

Complete the other end of the resistor through the section that was left -- make sure the resistor ends are connecting to individual sections of the "TERMINAL UNITS" and not to the same terminal section - It will only work one way!! If incorrect "TERMINAL UNIT" will not give a reading correctly.

ACTION 7 --

TEST - connection works.

ACTION 8 --

Mix Magic-Sculpt.

ACTION 9 --

Fill in the Terminal Unit gaps with Magic-Sculpt - allow to harden over night

ACTION 10 --

To make things easier color coding is helpful:

DS18B20 needs a "PULL-UP" 4.7K ohm resistor Media Probe needs a "PULL-DOWN" 10K ohm resistor.

Media Probe - Signal "PULL-DOWN" -- 10K ohm resistor (Yellow) -- ANALOG PIN

( - ) Ground (black) "PULL-DOWN" -- 10K ohm resistor

( + ) Positive (red) "PULL-UP" -- 4.7K ohm resistor

DS18B20 - Signal "PULL-UP" -- 4.7K ohm resistor (Blue) - DIGITAL PIN

VISIT STORE FOR ITEMS TALKED ABOUT HERE:

AGponics Store

BALCONY GARDEN - is featured as a Project in MAKE MAGAZINE - vol 47 starting on page 62

Step 11: SENSOR CONNECTION MAP - FISH TANK -- Part of Aquaponic Balcony Garden

Connection Map will map all the connections that take place between all the parts that make up the Sensor Connections in the grow-bed. This is important to understand as knowing how to trouble shoot and fix Sensor problems in each of the components of the Balcony Garden is an important skill to have.

RJ-45 Jack -- BLUE - FISH TANK
This jack is the connection point to the rest of the system for the Fish Tank.

A CAT-5 cable is use to connect back to the RJ-45 Hub that is part of the Grow-Bed Platform.

The RJ-45 jack has capacity for 8 connections.

In the Fish Tank only 4 are being used for the Float Switch and the DS18B20 sensors.

The Ultra Sonic sensor is not connected into the this RJ-45 jack it has it's own Cat 5 connector.

WIRE MAP:

BLACK - BROWN CAT 5 JACK - connection point

RED - ORANGE CAT 5 JACK - connection point

YELLOW - ORANGE/WHITE CAT 5 JACK - connection point

BLUE - BLUE CAT 5 JACK - connection point

BLACK SINGLE TERMINAL (-) ground -- RJ-45 side
Black wire coming from RJ-45 jack is connected to the Single Black Terminal on one end.

BLACK SINGLE TERMINAL (-) ground -- Sensor side
Black Terminal (-) -- Splits two directions 10K ohm Resistor Terminal Black side of the Transistor Terminal Black wire from DS18B20 is connected on Sensor side of Single Black Terminal as well

RED SINGLE TERMINAL (+) positive -- RJ-45 side
RED jumper wire from RED Single Terminal is connected to the RED side of the 4.7K ohm Resistor Terminal RJ-45 jack RED wire connects to one end of RED Single Terminal Jumper wire is connected at same point as the RED RJ-45 jack wire

RED TERMINAL (+) positive -- Sensor side
Connects to RED side of the Media Probe Sensor. ( It does not matter which screw is used as long as the other one is treated as the SIGNAL side screw connection)

4.7K ohm RESISTOR TERMINAL -- ( BLUE/RED )
RED - RJ-45 side -- RED jumper wire from RED Single Terminal connects here. BLUE - RJ-45 side -- BLUE wire from RJ-45 jack connects here. RED - Sensor side -- RED wire from DS18B20 connects here. BLUE - Sensor side -- BLUE wire from DS18B20 connects here.

10K ohm RESISTOR TERMINAL -- ( YELLOW / BLACK)
YELLOW - RJ-45 side -- YELLOW wire from RJ-45 jack connects here. BLACK - RJ-45 side -- BLACK wire from BLACK Single Terminal connects here. YELLOW - Sensor side -- YELLOW wire from the signal screw that makes up on screw of the Media Probe BLACK - Senor side - Terminates here and is not connected to anything.

PROCESS IMPROVEMENTS:
At anytime improvements to this build can be made. These improvements can and will take many different forms. When new tricks are learned or better parts are sourced changes will be made. Updates will be made at aquaponics DIY Automation Blog and the new ideas - parts or changes will be updated in this Instructable. So please send in your ideas and modifications and design changes can and will be made if they are of value to others interested in this project.

VISIT STORE FOR ITEMS TALKED ABOUT HERE:

AGponics Store

BALCONY GARDEN - is featured as a Project in MAKE MAGAZINE - vol 47 starting on page 62

Step 12: SENSOR CONNECTION -- FISH TANK -- Part of Aquaponic Balcony GARDEN

Sensors need to connect to the micro-controller at some point. This can take place either by hard wire connections or wireless. On a system of this size and cost hard wire is the most cost effective. Others can expand on this basic system and develop wireless sensors connections. The technology is now at a level that this is well with in the reach of most Makers. Cost is a factor and takes a higher level of expertise than the average "Aquapon".

VISIT STORE FOR ITEMS TALKED ABOUT HERE:

AGponics Store

BALCONY GARDEN - is featured as a Project in MAKE MAGAZINE - vol 47 starting on page 62

Step 13: FISH OPTIONS -- FISH TANK -- Part of Aquaponic Balcony GARDEN

A number of options for fish is presented here. Only the most useful fish are talked about here, but many other options are available for auqaponics. An internet search will provide a full listing and information on fish for aquaponics.

BLACK MOOR GOLDFISH

It's one of the most popular goldfish varieties, kept and loved by millions of aquarists. It is recommended to the beginner aquapon. Black Moor is a twin-tailed goldfish and has a rounded or egg-shaped body. It's shape is enhanced by the large protruding eyes on the sides of its head. The Black Moor is basically the black version of the Telescope Eye goldfish. As you noticed, this fish comes in one color - black. The scale coloration can range anywhere from a light grey to a dark black. It's important to note that some Black Moors may not stay pure black forever as they can revert to a metallic orange when kept in warmer water. The majority of Black Moors are kept in aquariums, not ponds, since their eye sight is far from perfect. Specimens available today have either a broad tail, ribbon tail or butterfly tail.

This is a good starter fish for the Balcony Garden. Especially if the coated fish tank option is used. The black color works well against the white coating. They can handle a broad temperature range and only grow to about 4 to 5 inches. They are very fun to watch and are one of my favorite fish to have in a tank. They are slow swimmers and have bad eye site so be careful with which fish you pair them with. They work well with the Golden Dojo Loaches.

Has no economic value at all. But is an excellent choice for the Balcony Garden and will give you years of entertainment value for you and your neighborhood kids.

GOLDEN DOJO LOACH
Scientific Name: Misgurnus anguillicaudatus

This is not a fish that you will find on any aquaponics fish list. I don't know why that is but no one talks about them at all. So no one is working with them as that surprises me because they are used in Asian cooking throughout the world. So it seems like a perfect fit for aquaponics to me.

I use the Golden DOJO Loach as a bottom feeder. I have found that they clean up the bottom of the tank very nicely and very entertaining as well. Most of the environmental conditions state that they can only live lower than 50 degree water. But I have had them in outside tanks when temperatures have been in the high 20's and they have made it and not lost any of them.

The Dojo Loach will reach about 6" (15 cm) in the aquarium, though in nature it can get much bigger. In the wild these fish are reported to reach up to about 11 1/4 inches" (28 cm). The Baensch Aquarium Atlas, Volume 2 reports them reaching up to 20" (50 cm). They generally have a life span of between 7 - 10 years. The body of this loach is long and cylindrical and almost eel-like. It is circular towards the front but flattens towards the rear, and it can be thin or heavy. They have are five pairs of barbels around the mouth, with two of them located on the lower jaw. They can be brown to yellow with a dark greenish gray to dark brown spots, usually creating a marbling pattern, and are paler on the underside. A common color morph is the Golden Dojo Loach. It can range from a yellow to an orange color and they are usually thin bodied. They do have spots but they are usually extremely faint.

Economic/social impacts:
The Oriental Weather Loach is not eaten in Australia or the US, but is a food fish in many Asian countries. The loachs are sorted for sale by size. -

SHUBUNKIN GOLDFISH

Were first developed in the early 1900s from strains of telescope goldfish in Japan. They are often referred to as “the poor man’s koi.” Similar in body shape to the comet goldfish, shubunkins are characterized by their nacreous scales and calico coloring , which contains shades of red, gold, purple, blue, black and white. Shubunkins with more blue coloration are considered to be more valuable. There are three varieties of shubunkins; American, London and Bristol. American shubunkins have a body shape nearly identical to comet goldfish, but with slightly larger tails that droop more. London shubunkins have a stockier body shape, similar to that of the common goldfish, and lack the flashy fins of their counterparts. Bristol shubunkins have moderately large tail fins with rounded edges, resembling a capital “B”.

This is another great starter fish for the Balcony Garden. They take very cold conditions and keep on swimming. They can get to be around 6 to 7 inches and get along with all other fish. The produce a large amount of waste so filter changes will be needed so make sure this aspect is managed or water conditions will go bad on you.

Again this fish has no economic value at all.

TALAPIA --

Make sure to check with local regulations as some areas of the country do not allow the growing of Talapia.

Can become up to 10 pounds most people eat them around 2 pounds. The Balcony Garden will not support a 10 pound fish.

Tilapia are native to Africa and the Middle East and have been widely introduced around the world for food production. They are abundant in many Mexican lakes, where they were introduced and are commercially netted by the hundreds of thousands, and are found in some southern U.S. waters, most notably Florida. Perhaps the most well-known member of this group is the Mozambique tilapia (Oreochromis mossambicus), which has been widely cultivated in fish ponds. The tilapia is generally small with a moderately deep and compressed body. It has a long dorsal fin, the anterior of which is spiny; a single nostril on each side of the snout; and an interrupted lateral line, which may be in either two or three parts. It is distinguished from the bluegill by the absence of a dark blue or black opercular flap. In freshwater, they are primarily algae and plant feeders. Many are mouth brooders, although some build spawning nests, which they guard after the eggs hatch. Most are small, although some reportedly can grow as large as 20 pounds, and they are schooling species. Despite their abundance, tilapia have little to no sport- fishing value in most areas where they have been introduced, although they are valuable food fish. Tilapia have had mixed value in some areas where they have been introduced, crowding out some native species, stunting and breeding rapidly, and sometimes producing large crops of very small individuals, but also providing forage for larger predators, especially large mouth bass.

SUNFISH - GREEN

The green sunfish is a widespread and commonly caught member of the Centrarchidae family. It has white, flaky flesh and is a good food fish. Identification. The green sunfish has a slender, thick body; a fairly long snout; and a large mouth, with the upper jaw extending beneath the pupil of the eye; it resembles the warmouth and the smallmouth bass. It has short, rounded pectoral fins, connected dorsal fins, and an extended gill cover flap, or “ear lobe,” which is black and has a light red, pink, or yellow edge. The body is usually brown to olive or bluish green with a bronze to emerald-green sheen, fading to yellow green on the lower sides and yellow or white on the belly. An adult fish has a large black spot at the rear of the second dorsal and the anal fin bases, and breeding males have yellow or orange edges on the second dorsal, the caudal, and the anal fins. Size. The average length is 4 inches, ranging usually from 2 to 8 inches and reaching a maximum of 12 inches, which is extremely rare. Most weigh less than a half pound. The all-tackle world record is a 2-pound, 2-ounce fish taken in Missouri in 1971.

YELLOW PERCH

The most widely distributed member of the Percidae family, the yellow perch is one of the best loved and most pursued of all freshwater fish, particularly in northerly states and provinces in North America. This is due to its availability over a wide range, the general ease with which it is caught, and its delicious taste. Identification. Unlike the white perch, which is actually a temperate bass, the yellow perch is a true perch. Although it resembles the true bass in many ways, it is more closely related to fellow Percidae family members, the walleye and the sauger. Its most striking characteristic is a colorful golden yellow body, tinged with orange-colored fins. The yellow perch is colored a green to yellow gold and has six to eight dark, broad vertical bars that extend from the back to below the lateral line, a whitish belly, and orange lower fins during breeding season. Its body is oblong and appears humpbacked; this is the result of the deepest part of the body beginning at the first dorsal fin, then tapering slightly to the beginning of the second dorsal fin. This trait is somewhat similar in white perch, to which the yellow perch is unrelated, although both fish may inhabit the same waters. The yellow perch is distinguished from the trout and the salmon by its lack of an adipose fin, which is ordinarily located between the dorsal and the tail fins, and from sun- fish by its separate dorsal fins (connected in sunfish) and two or fewer anal fin spines (sunfish have three or more). It is distinguished from the walleye and the sauger by its lack of canine teeth and by a generally deeper body form. Size/Age. The average yellow perch caught by anglers weighs between 1⁄4 to 3⁄4 pound and measures 6 to 10 inches in length. In lakes with stunted populations, the fish are on the lower end of this range, and a 10-inch fish is OTHER NAMES ringed perch, striped perch, coon perch, jack perch, lake perch, American perch; French: perchaude. Distribution. Yellow perch are widespread in the northern United States and Canada. They range east from Nova Scotia to the Santee River drainage in South Carolina and west throughout the Great Lakes states to the edge of British Columbia and into Washington. Small numbers extend north through Great Slave Lake almost to Great Bear Lake in Canada’s Northwest Territories. They appear in nearly every state due to stocking, but they are sparsely distributed in the South, most of the West, and parts of the Midwest; they are also sparse in British Columbia and northern Canada. Although the yellow perch is a freshwater fish, Nova Scotia fisheries personnel report that it is occasionally found in brackish water along the Atlantic coast. Perch, Yellow 151 Perch, Yellow Perca flavescens p_sa.qxd 11/7/03 11:08 AM Page 151 usually considered fairly large. Some lakes produce perch in the 1-pound and larger class, although fish greater than 11⁄2 pounds are infrequent.

MOSQUIOFISH

The mosquitofish is a member of the large Poeciliidae family of livebearers, which is closely related to killifish or cyprinodonts, differing from them mainly in bringing forth its young alive, rather than laying eggs. Also known as the North American topminnow or the western mosquitofish, this species is famous as the numberone scourge of mosquito larvae. Although there are other larvae-eating species of fish, the mosquitofish tolerates salinity and pollution levels that would kill most other species, and it produces up to 1,500 young in its lifetime. Native to the southeastern United States, the mosquitofish has been introduced to suitable warm waters around the world since 1905, when it was experimentally introduced to Hawaii and virtually eliminated mosquitoes. As a result, Gambusia affinis affinis is the widest-ranging freshwater fish on earth (other species of mosquitofish have not been as successfully introduced). It has most recently been introduced in many places to help control West Nile virus. Female mosquitofish are about 2 inches long, and the males are only half as large. The anal fin of the male is modified to form an intermittent organ for introducing sperm into the female. A mature female may produce three or four broods during one season, sometimes giving birth to 200 or more young at a time. This fish is easily raised in aquariums and is not sensitive to temperature variations, but it does not adjust well to living with other fish.

CATFISH

Catfish comprise a large group of predominately freshwater fish that is distributed around the world. Some accounts peg the total number of catfish species worldwide at more than 2,200. Many of the world’s significant river systems are home to at least one species of catfish, and in most cases these fish rank among the largest fish of the river system. The same applies to large lakes, especially in reservoirs that are impoundments of large rivers. Many catfish are important for commercial and recreational purposes. Species. Most catfish are scaleless, but some are armored with heavy scales. They vary in size from tiny versions that are popular for aquarium use, the smallest of which grow no larger than 1⁄2 inch, to huge specimens, the largest of which has been recorded at more than 600 pounds. Most catfish prefer the sluggish localities of lakes and rivers; some do best in fairly swift waters. Tenacious fish, they can stay alive out of water for a considerable time, especially if kept moist. They are characterized by having a single dorsal fin and an adipose fin; strong, sharply pointed spines in the dorsal and pectoral fins; and whisker like sensory barbels on the upper and lower jaws. The head and the mouth are generally broad, and the eyes small.

BLUEGILLS

bluegills are among the most popular panfish species in North America. This notoriety is the result of their vast distribution, spunky fight, and excellent taste. Commonly referred to as “bream,” bluegills are the most widely distributed panfish and are found with, or in similar places as, such companion and related species as redbreast sunfish, green sunfish, pumpkinseeds, shellcrackers, and longear sunfish, all of which are similar in configuration but different in appearance. Despite their abundance and popularity, bluegills are not heavily targeted in some waters and are thus underutilized. Bluegills are so prolific that their populations can grow beyond the carrying capacity of the water, and as a result many become stunted; these stunted fish are regarded as pests, and waters containing them must often be drained and restocked. There are three subspecies of bluegills in existence, although stocking has intermingled populations and subspecies. Identification. The bluegill has a significantly compressed oval or roundish body, a small mouth, and a small head, qualities typical of members of the sunfish family. The pectoral fins are pointed. Its coloring varies greatly from lake to lake, ranging from olive, dark blue, or bluish purple to dappled yellow and green on the sides with an overall blue cast; some fish, particularly those found in quarry holes, may actually be clear and colorless. Ordinarily, there are six to eight vertical bars on the sides, and these may or may not be prominent. The gill cover extends to create a wide black flap, faint in color on the young, which is not surrounded by a lighter border as in other sunfish. Dark blue streaks are found on the lower cheeks between the chin and the gill cover, and often there is a dark mark at the bottom of the anal fin. The breeding male is more vividly colored, possessing a blue head and back, a bright orange breast and belly, and black pelvic fins. Size/Age. These fish range from 4 to 12 inches in length, averaging 8 inches and reaching a maximum length of 161⁄4 inches. The largest bluegill ever caught was a 4-pound, 12-ounce specimen taken in 1950. The growth of the bluegill varies so much that estimates of age as it relates to size are at best inexact. Bluegills are estimated to live for 10 years.

SMALLMOUTH BASS

The smallmouth bass is the second largest member of the Centrarchidae family of sunfish and a North American original. To anglers, it is one of the most impressive of all freshwater fish and is coveted for its fighting ability. The smallmouth is not actually a bass but a sunfish, and its mouth is only small in comparison to that of some relatives. It is naturally a fish of both clear rivers and lakes and has been widely introduced to other waters outside its original range. Smallmouth bass that reside in small to intermediate streams do not grow as large, on average, as those from lakes or reservoirs, although fish from big rivers, and especially those with tailwater fisheries, can attain large sizes. River smallmouth bass are even spunkier than their lake-dwelling brethren, however, and tend to be more streamlined and to lack drooping bellies. The smallmouth bass is occasionally confused with the largemouth where they both occur, and also with the spotted bass and the redeye bass. They have been known to hybridize with spotted bass. Two subspecies are often recognized: the northern smallmouth, Micropterus dolomieui dolomieui, and the Neosho smallmouth, M. d. velox. Identification. The smallmouth bass has a robust, slightly laterally compressed and elongate body; a protruding lower jaw; red eyes; and a broad and slightly forked tail. Its pelvic fins sit forward on the body below the pectoral fins; a single spine is found on each pelvic fin and on the front of the anal fin. The two dorsal fins are joined or notched; the front one is spiny and the second one has one spine followed by soft rays. Its color varies from brown, golden brown, and olive to green on the back, becoming lighter to golden on the sides and white on the belly. Young fish have more distinct vertical bars or rows of spots on their sides, and the caudal, or tail, fins are orange at the base, followed by black and then white outer edges.

SACRAMENTO PERCH

If any fish native to the Delta seemed tailor-made to withstand the drought, it would have to be the Sacramento perch. Tolerant of a wide range of water quality, the perch can thrive in clear, cold water or warm water so stagnant and thick with algae it would choke a cow. It can survive in slightly brackish water, in water contaminated by runoff, and in muddy ponds only a few inches deep: perfect for the drought-era Delta.
And yet only a few Sacramento perch remain in the native Delta habitat, at best. Widely planted in stockponds and reservoirs outside its native range, the perch is functionally extinct in the Delta and throughout the rest of its limited original range.

As is so often the case with common names, the Sacramento perch isn't actually a true perch. Known to science as Archoplites interruptus, it's a member of the sunfish family,Centrarchidae, along with bluegills and largemouth bass. In fact, it's the only member of that family native to North America west of the Rocky Mountains, and has evolved without having to compete with other members of the sunfish family for food or habitat, perhaps since the Miocene Epoch, which ended 5.3 million years ago.

The Sacramento perch wasn't picky about that habitat. In addition to the streams of the Delta and Central Valley, Archoplites once thrived in the Salinas and Pajaro rivers in the Monterey Bay area, as well as in Clear Lake. Though the perch did swim in clear, swift-flowing water, it seemed to prefer the other kind: stagnant pools and side-channels, sloughs viscid with algae, ponds choked with emergent vegetation. The Sacramento perch's wide tolerance of water conditions includes temperature. The adults can survive in water far warmer than many other Delta fish can tolerate: until the water reaches about 72° Fahrenheit, adult Sacramento perch do just fine. Warmer than that, and the adults will decline in fitness, leaving to cooler waters if they can.The perch's larvae can tolerate even warmer water. That's a good thing, because heavily vegetated, shallow, and turbid waters are where Sacramento perch tend to spawn. Vegetation slows water currents, and suspended silt and organic matter absorb sunlight, both process warming the water.

SACRAMENTO BLACKFISH

They are native to the Sacramento and San Joaquin drainages as well as to Clear Lake. These fish however are found in other various streams and reservoirs in California, and have extended into parts of Nevada. Sacramento blackfish prefer warm turbid waters in small to large streams, and often share habitat with an array of non-natives. Sacramento blackfish prefer water temperatures in the range of 22-28°C. They have shown a great ability to adapt to extreme environments including water temperatures exceeding 30°C and salinities in excess of 9 ppt. Blackfish are typically suspension feeders with a diet of planktonic algae and zooplankton, including copepods, insect larvae, rotifers, cladocerans, and detritus. Young fish tend to feed in the water column or stream bottom on zooplankton and insects. Juvenile fish may school along lake shores where prey is abundant. As Sacramento blackfish grow they become increasingly reliant upon pumping suspended material into their mouths, using their gill rakers as a filter, and trapping food in mucous in the roof of their mouth. Adults can live on a diet of primarily organic matter and algae. Pond and lake inhabitants can feed on diatoms, algae, and zooplankton, or may pick up organic matter and small invertebrates from the bottom. Sacramento blackfish may become sexually mature in their first, second, third, or fourth years, depending upon their growth rate. Males tend to reach sexual maturity before the females, and the production of eggs in females seems to be directly related to body size. A female of 171 mm FL may produce 14,700 eggs, while a female of 466 mm FL can produce some 346,500 eggs. Spawning generally occurs in spring but may happen anytime between March and July when water temperatures are in the range of 12-24°C. Spawning beds are usually found in areas of thick vegetation and shallow water. The eggs will cling to the local substrate till the larvae emerge and begin foraging in the same region.

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BALCONY GARDEN - is featured as a Project in MAKE MAGAZINE - vol 47 starting on page 62

Step 14: RESOURCES - FISH TANK -- Part of Aquaponic Balcony Garden

Aquaponic Gardening:

A Step-By-Step Guide to Raising Vegetables and Fish Together Paperback – October 11, 2011 by Sylvia Bernstein Aquaponic Book - good resource

http://www.amazon.com/Aquaponic-Gardening-Step---...

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Ken Schultz’s Field Guide to Freshwater Fish

T his guide is derived from the widely praised and award-winning volume
Ken Schultz’s Fishing Encyclopedia. Weighing nearly 10 pounds and containing 1,916 pages of information in an 8.5- by 11-inch format, it is hardly a book that can be taken afield or casually perused. Among the many virtues of the encyclopedia is its detailed information about prey and predator species worldwide, which many people—including numerous lure designers, scientific researchers, and anglers—find very valuable and which is available nowhere else. To make it easier for people interested in the major North American fish species to reference this subject matter, that portion of the encyclopedia was excerpted into two compact and portable guides, Ken Schultz’s Field Guide to Freshwater Fish