Introduction: Faux Metal Coffee Table

If you love industrial style and want to do a DIY project, but don't know how to weld and solder, then this type of project is perfect for you!

Maybe building isn't your thing? You could take a coffee table and wrap the top with the stainless steel film (make sure the tabletop you're wrapping is squared off because getting the film to lay flat on rounded corners would be really difficult).

Step 1: Build the Legs

I bought this 24" x 48" board at Lowe's. These boards are great because they're straight and in good condition.

I used 4x4s for the legs, you could use 2x4s as well. 17" is a good height. If you want your legs to be angled, make your cuts at 10 degrees, with top and bottom cuts parallel. Sand each piece. Drill 2 pocket holes on the top of each piece using a Kreg Jig.

Connect 2 legs with two 11" 2x4s using a Kreg Jig. (If you're not familiar with a Kreg Jig, you can find videos on Youtube to demonstrate how to use one). Repeat for other set of legs.

If you'd like to have your 11" pieces set back a bit, you can set them on another 2x4 while you're attaching them to the legs.

Step 2: Wrap the Tabletop

Wrap tabletop with EZFaux Décor's stainless steel film. It's similar to applying contact paper, but is way more durable, and thick, and is a much higher quality than contact paper. Check out their Youtube channel to see how to apply it.

Step 3: Attach Legs and Trestle

Place legs on the upside-down tabletop, make your measurements to center them, and trace around the top of each leg to mark where you want them to go.

Use heavy duty glue (Gorilla Glue, Liquid Nails, etc) and place legs on the squares you traced. When the glue is dry, screw into place using the pocket holes you already drilled.

To attach the trestle piece: Use a 2x4 and measure the distance between the 11" pieces. Make your cuts at 10 degrees, NOT parallel. Attach using Kreg Jig.

Step 4: Attach Diagonal Pieces

Cut two 1x2 pieces.

This step is easier if you have the proper tools. I only have a miter saw, so I made parallel cuts at the largest angle my miter saw would allow (about 47 degrees), then sanded one angle down until it fit how I wanted it to under the table. I repeatedly sanded and checked for fit until it fit properly.

Glue into place. Tape down to keep it from sliding. When glue dries you can add nails or screws to secure it if you'd like.

Step 5: Paint or Stain

You can stain or paint the wood any color you'd like. The top looks like real metal. There are a lot of different twists you can make to this table to customize it and make it look however you'd like!

For more details on the building process, please visit