I designed a flatpack coffeemaker and coffeepot to use at home or to go camping.

The coffeemaker en coffeepot are two different things.

When you buy the coffeemaker, the coffeepot will be inside the package, as a solid box.Whenever you want to go camping, you just take the twisted coffeepot with you, cook some water the old school camping way & pour the water into the coffeepot with a filter. The coffeepot is easy to take along, because it's flat and by twisting it around you suddenly have a voluminous coffeepot!

The coffeemaker is a flatpack when you buy the package, but doesn't need to be flatpacked whole the time like the coffeepot, you take it out , attach all parts and place it in the kitchen. When not travelling, you use the coffeepot at home to place under the coffeemaker.

This way of packing the coffeemaker is a big ecological innovation. There is nog packaging material to throw away after opening and the box is 5 times smaller then the original coffeemaker, what revolves in less CO² emissions!

Step 1: What Do You Need?

Materials

An old coffeemaker to hack all elektronical components, cable, the waterspray and heating parts
Tec 7 silicone glue
UHU power glue
Isolation foam for water tubes ( the green roll)
Material plates: white PS plate - semi translucent PVC plate - translucent PP
Coffee filters to test the machine
Velcro
Long copper tubes: small one = diameter 6mm / bigger one = inside diameter 9mm
2 copper tube corners: each one of the long copper tubes need to fit in the 2 holes of this corners
4 copper seal rings: to fix the PVC on to the copper corners
Rubber seal ring

Tools:

Polish tools
Cutter knive
Pencil
Siccors
Cutting mat
Paint tape (TESA)

Step 2: Making the Parts of the White Coffeebase

First we make the 7 parts of the coffeebase, where all the elecrotnical components and storage place will be.

To make the dimensions clear, I numbered all dimensions on the photo and also named every part:

A. the underside
1. 22,5 cm
2. 18,5 cm

B. the upside
3. 14,5 cm
4. 11,5 cm

C. inside dividing plate
5. 21,9 cm
6. 4 cm
7. 13,9 cm

D. Long side plates (2)
8. 22,5 cm
9. 5 cm
10. 14,5 cm

E. Short side plates (2)
11. 18,5 cm
12. 5 cm
13. 11,5 cm

After that the sidelines of the side plates and upperside need to be polished at an angle of 45°, as you see at the last photo. By doing this, youcan make a seamless coffeemaker base.

Step 3: Making the Water Tank

The second part of the coffeemaker that needs to be sliced is the watertank (that also is the packaging).
This part is a little bigger than the base, because it needs to slide over the base to function as the packaging.

The dimensions of the parts:

A. The back of the water tank
1. 29,6 cm
2. 23 cm
3. 19,3 cm
4. 12 cm

B. The frond of the water tank
5. 16 cm
6. 23 cm
7. 6,3 cm
8. 24,6 cm

Step 4: Making Holes Into the 2 Parts

Befor we attach all sides to eachother and place the connection tubes, we need to make the holes for:
A. Coffeemaker base

The black start button in one of the long side plates : diameter 1,8 cm
A half hole for the cable in the other long side plate & the same hole in the inside dividing plate: diam. 0,8 cm
4 the same eggshaped holes in one of the short side plates: 1,8 cm x 1,5 cm

B. Water tank

2 of the same eggshaped holes (1,8 cm x 1,5 cm) you made in the base at the same place of the 2 left ones. They have to be the same as those of the base, because that's the play the 2 tubes will be attached to eachother with a connection tube.

Step 5: Making and Attaching the Corner Tubes on to the PVC Watertank

1. De copper tubes & corners (photo 1 & 2)
We need to make sure that the connection between the 2 hot watertubes ( running through the water tank) and the copper corner tube is perfectly closed, otherwise the coffee maker will not work.

That's why we first attach a little piece of the smallest tube in the one side of the corner tube and a little piece of the bigger copper tube in the other side (this last side needs to be attached with the bigger hot water tube in the base).
This connection with brazing using tin, to make a strong metal link.

2. Attaching the first seal rings on to the two copper tube corners (photo 3)
At an angle of 45° we place the first rings on to the copper tubes, again with brazing and using tin.

3. Polishing (photo 3)
After the first step the tin creates an uneven and brute border, that needs to be polished to make the connection perfectly.

3. Tec 7 clear: silicon glue (photo 4)
Now everything is ready to glue the 2 tube corners in the 2 holes of the watertank with tec 7. Move the two tubes into the holes and place the 2 second seal rings on it with glue on both sides of the PVC, this is a very important step that makes the tank waterproof.
TIP: the Tec 7 needs to dry 8 hours !

While this dries, we can already connect all parts of the watertank with the same silicone glue. Use some paint tape to hold everything on place, because - like I said - the glue dries very slow, so it still moves the first hours.

4. Trying the hot water tube that needs to be placed in the watertank at the end (photo 5)
Move the tube over the copper corner to look if it fits.

Step 6: Isolation Foam

With the roll isolation foam, we need to ensure that the white PS plate certainly can not melt under any circumstances.We glue it on to the 3 sides where the heating component will be placed.

Step 7: Finishing the Coffee Maker Base

1. Fitting
Before we start with gluing all parts of the base together, we try if the base fits into the watertank ( with tape we can try this easily).

2. The storage place in the base
The last step before gluing is making the opening for the storage place, where you store the cable, the watertube and spray. We maken an opening of 14 cm by 4 cm with an opening to the outside ( for the cable when you are using the coffeemaker).

3. UHU power
When everything looks fine, you can glue all parts together with UHU power glue. We wait with the short sided plate with 4 egg shaped holes, because if anything is wrong with the elektronical components or things start to move, we can still touch it through this side.

Step 8: Making the Flap (that Also Is the Closure of the Packaging)

This flap that closes the watertank packaging consists of 2 parts. These parts will be connected by using the PP flexible plate that we will use for making the coffeepot. By using this material, the flap kan open en close easily.
We glue these 2 materials togehter with UHU power glue and attach it to the flap, as you see in photo 4.

The triangle: underside 12,5 cm - 8 cm height - going up at an angle of 60° with a rounded top of diam. 3 cm
The trapezium: long side 19,5 cm - shorter side 12,5 cm - 6 cm height

Step 9: Attaching the Water Tube and Spray

To make sure the connection between the waterspray and watertube is perfectly closed, we use the silicone glue again, also a rubber seal ring for extra closure. This coonnection needs to be good, because this tube transports the hot water from the base to the top under pressure and this has to be waterproof ofcourse!

Step 10: Connecting With Velcro

To close the watertank packaging with the flap and attach the waterspray to the flap, we use velcro.

Cut the self sticking velcro in rounds and stick them to the flap, watertank and waterspray (after cutting off the little pin, see photo 3)

Step 11: Making the Twisting Coffeepot

The last step is making the coffeepot, consisting of 2 parts: the coffeepot and the underside.

The coffeepot:
First we cut a rectangle of 20 cm x 27 cm ( 4 x 9 cm for each side of the pot). We make 4 folding lines every 9 cm to divide the pot in 4 even sides. After that we turn the whole rectangle and make the 4 diagonal folding lines, everytime in the same direction. The two ends come together and are attached with the silicone glue by using the tape to hold it together. You can use a finger condom to rub it evenly over the whole length. Now it needs to dry.

The underside of the coffeepot:
Again we cut out a rectangles, but now one of 9 x 18 cm ( or you can cut two seperate squares and attach them afterwards). First we make two diagonal folding lines at the top side that are reversed over eachother in the other direction. Now we make the same folding lines at the other side in the reversed direction, as you can see in photo 5.
When this is done, you can glue the two end together with the same glue using the tape. Time to dry again!

Attaching the two parts
When the 2 parts are dry, the 4 sides of the underside need to be glued to the coffeepot to form one waterproof shape.

Testing the twisting coffeepot ( step by step in the instructions photo 7)
After a long time drying you can finally test the twisting coffeepot!

Open the flat coffeepot a little bit and give pressure on the triangular underside, pressing from both sides.
Now the coffeepot will transform in a box, the triangular little flap at the underside is connectable with the velcro.
By pressing the 4 diagonal folding lines from the coffeepot, it will twist in a sandglass form, now you can put in the coffee filter and start making coffee!
When you want to serve the coffee, open the twister up to make a normal box again. Enjoy!