Introduction: Folding Table

About: I started woodworking with my grandfather as a young boy. I continued woodworking through high school, and started woodturning after seeing a turned project in a friends shop. Some of my fondest memories are w…

I uploaded this video on YouTube on how to make this Cedar folding table. Here's some more detailed instructions if you would like to build it. It's a pretty easy project, and can be done in a weekend. I chose Cedar for this project, it's a great outdoor wood that holds up well.

Step 1: Choosing Lumber, and Hardware

I had to resaw the boards I used in the video, but if you use 1/2" lumber it will speed up the build a lot.

You will need,

7' 3" x 3 1/2" x 1/2 lumber for the top, and bottom supports.

11' 10" x 1 5/8" x 1/2" lumber for the legs, and table pot supports.

12" of 3/8" dowel,

7 1/4" of 1" dowel

24 #6 1" screws

Step 2: Cut List

The four top pieces are,

15 1/4" x 3 1/2" x 1/2"

Two bottom supports are,

13" x 3 1/3" x 1/2"

Four legs are,

20 1/2" x 1 5/8" x 1/2"

Supports under the top are,

14" x 1 5/8" x 1/2"

Eight pieces of 3/8" dowel

4 at 1 1/8"

2 at 3/4"

2 at 2"

One piece of 1" dowel

7 1/4"

Step 3: Sanding

Sand all the pieces to the same thickness.

A surface sander makes this very easy, but not necessary

Step 4: Drilling the Holes

Using a drill press will make this much easier, and more accurate.

All the 1 5/8" x 1/2" support pieces need a 3/8"drilled 7/8" from one end. The 20 1/2" pieces also need a 7/8" hole drilled 9 1/2" form the opposite end. Two of the 14" x 1 /58" supports also need a hole drilled on the edge, this is the 1/2" side. find center-7" and drill a 5/8" these will be the stops for the top of the table.

Step 5: Rounding the Corners

I used a bottle cap to mark the corners, this can be done with a compass as well. Mark all the corners on the 1 /58" pieces, and the 13" x 3 1/2". Only two of the 15 1/4" x 3 1/2" pieces have the corners rounded, on one edge. I used a spindle sander, this works well for rounding the corners.

Step 6: Installing the Dowels

Glue in the 3/4" dowels into the 14" piece you drilled a 5/8 hole on the edge. The 2" dowels, are glued into the 20 1/2" pieces. Glue the 1 1/8" into 14" supports. (Not the ones with the 3/4" dowels) Let the glue dry before assembly. The 20 1/2" legs go on the outside of the 14" supports with the 3/4" stop dowels. The 14" supports go on the outside of the other 20 1/12" leg. The last two 1 1/8" dowels, are glued in to the 20 1/2" piece for the cross brace, glue them on the outside leg.

Step 7: 7 1/4" X 1" Dowel

Find center on the dowel, I used a center finder to do this. Drill a 5/8" hole in each end, about 1" deep. Install the dowel/handle into the 2" 5/8" dowels, don't glue them in.

Step 8: Finish

Put your finish on the legs before assembling the top.

Step 9: Install the Top, and Lower Supports

I used #6 1" screws

Square the two top pieces up. I used a 1/8" spacer between the dowels, and two pieces. Use a tape measure to measure the overhang on each side. Pre drill for the screws, I used a square to lineup with the supports. Screw the 15 1/4" pieces to the inside support with the dowel stops. The lower support is screwed to the inside leg 1 1/5" down from the top piece.

Flip the table over, and repeat this process. The only deference is you screw the pieces to the outside supports, and outside legs.

Step 10: Apply a Finish to the Top

Slow motion table opening,and closing

Apply a finish to all the remaining pieces, and let dry.