I had recently gotten this ATV and it was too loud for a regular Bluetooth speaker, so I wanted something that I could hear over the machine. (This setup would work on other ATV's but the remote would have to be wired differently and the pipe might have to be shorter or longer.)

Supplies

Tools:

soldering iron

circular saw

band saw/jig saw

electric drill

impact driver

heat gun/torch

belt sander

router

drill bits

utility knife

Supplies:

14g wire

zipties

heat shrink tubing

pyle 5.25 low profile marine speakers

aux cord

pyle hydra marine micro amp

rca stereo audio extension cable

aux extension cable

wire connectors

cedar shim

pvc nds 4" by 6" reducer

4" street 90's

4"pvc

4" butt coupler.

Step 1: Power Wiring

Yamaha has a front auxiliary outlet on the front rack,(see middle picture) so I chose to run my remote wire for the amp to the back tool box; running it down the frame with the existing wires. I pulled power and powered ground off of the battery with soldered on ends, (see first picture) into the tool box. which I had to drill a hole to get the wires in.

Wiring diagram - Copy.pdf
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Step 2: Amp Wiring

The amp that I purchased had leads for the speaker output; using the wire that came with the speakers I soldered them together and heat shrank them, then ran them to the front with the remote wire. I put the volume control and the aux input on the handle bars running the wires for them with the remote wire; the cables were short so I needed extenders.

Step 3: Amp Mount

I had a cedar shim left over from a previous project so I used a utility knife to cut the thicker end to 4.5"x4.5". I marked out two adjacent holes and drilled it through for small screws with nuts, I tightened them down untill the screw head was recessed into the wood.

Step 4: Speaker Wiring

I wanted the system to be easily removable from the bike, so I used a 4 wire trailer connector soldered onto each end of the wires.

Step 5: Pvc

For the main body of the system I used 15in of 4in schedule 40 pvc. that went into 4in couplers to a street 90. For the cone that holds the speakers I got 4-6 reducer hub.

Step 6: Speaker Mount

In the 6in pvc end I cut out 3/4 plywood to fit inside of the hub. Using a jig saw I cut out a 4.5in hole using the ends of the reducer hub. Using a rasp I cut out a grove for where the wires attach to the speakers, along with routering a 45 degree onto the speaker end. To attach them to the 6in hub I used 1in long screws that I pre drilled.

Step 7: Inside the Pipe

With a speaker setup like this you want something to separate the two speakers, so that the pressure of them don't fight each other under heavy load. I cut out a 4in insert for the pipe and drilled a small hole through it for the wire. I made sure that the hole I drilled in the face of the pipe was just big enough for the trailer connector wires to fit through, ensuring a good seal.

Step 8: Finishing Touches

The speakers I purchased came with foam water seals that I put on and got toy stuffing that I filled the pipe with to help push the sound out. Then I went through and taped up where the extenders hooked up to help with water.