Hi guys, I think many of us know what funkos are, so this time I will show you how to make a 3D minion funko, I hope you like it and that you can make your funko too.

Supplies

Tinkercad

Ultimaker Cura

Peripheral mouse

Computer

Step 1: Head and Body

First we are going to use the Tirkercad program to create the funko design, well we will see that on the right side of the screen we will find the elements that we will use to create our funko, in this case we will use only the basic shapes section. To start, we will choose the square to make the body of our minion, to take it to the work plane just select the square and drag it on the work plane. To modify the measures just press the black squares on each side of the base of the square, the width and length will be 50mm and for the height just raise the white square below the black arrow to modify the height with 73 mm. Also to make the square beveled just go to the options that will appear on the right where we will modify the radius to 5 mm.

Step 2: Eyes

Then we will continue creating the face of the minion, well the first thing we will select will be a sphere we will move it to the work plane to modify its measures: width 4 mm, length 3 mm and height 3 mm, then another sphere with the measures: width 8 mm, length 7 mm and height 7 mm and finally another sphere with these measures: width 13 mm, length 17 and height 16 mm, this will be to make the eyes; in all the spheres we will modify the "Sides" to 64 mm, "Bevel" 18 mm and "Segments" 10 mm. After that we will place first the biggest sphere, then the medium one and the small one to form its eyes; to move it from position without moving it with the mouse we will only use the arrows of the keyboard to move it with precision. And to have the two eyes of equal size, we just have to go to the top left where we will find the copy and paste options and also so that your work does not move too much you can give the option to "Group". To finish with the eyes, we go up with the black arrow that is in each sphere to reach a point where the face will be.

Step 3: Glasses

To make the lenses we will select from the basic shapes a square, so that in it we will change the measures: width 4 mm, length 7 mm and height 2 mm, that will be the part of the end of the front of the glasses and the beginning of the rod of the glasses; then with another square with measures: width 3 mm, length 37 mm and height 2 mm, it will be for the rod of the glasses. To place the rod we will only modify with the curved arrows that are one on the side with a 90° turn; the other rectangle we will leave it as it is to make the front of the lenses. Well we will choose the ring we will modify its measures: width 8.45 mm, length 19.22 and height 18 mm, then another ring with the following measures: width 5.45 mm, length 18 and height 16 mm; when we have them we will only put the small ring inside the big one so that the thickness of the lenses can be seen. And to have the lenses of the same size we just copy and paste, position it well and we are done with the lenses.

Step 4: Hair and Mouth

To make the hair is very simple, just select the element "Scribble" and take it to the work plane, it will take us to draw what we want, well in this case I drew a bird type to be the hair of our minion. When we have it we copy and paste it twice so we have three times and we can play with the length sizes, so that it doesn't look all the same length and it looks like hair.

To make the mouth we do the same, select "Scribble" and draw a mouth for our minion.

Step 5: Clothes

Just as we use the "Scribble" element to make the hair and the mouth we will also use it to make the clothes of our minion, well we will draw his overalls, we will start with the polo part with a width 52 mm, length 50 mm and height 36 mm and then we will draw the suspenders with a width 52 mm, length 17 and height 9 mm. After that we will make the buttons of the suspenders with a cylinder we will modify it with a width, length and height of 1 mm, also changing: "Sides" 64 mm, "Bevel" 2.5 mm and "Segments" 1 mm. And for the part of the pants we will use a "Paraboloid" we will modify it with a width 31 mm, length 21.63 mm and height 33.47 mm. And to place everything together first put the polo well placed covering the bottom of the minion; with the strap already copied and glued, we have two, we can place them so that they are a little inclined, also place the buttons well on the straps. Then to place the pants we will have first to use the curved arrows at the top of the element to give a tilt so that it is upside down and somewhat inclined; then select the entire composition of the minion, minus the pants, go to the group option and go up a little to put them underneath complemented with the polo shirt.

Step 6: Arms, Gloves and Shoes

To make the arms we will only need a "Polygon" with the following measures: width 7 mm, length 9.56 mm and height 24.82 mm, also modifying "Sides" 12 mm, "Bevel" 1.28 mm and "Segments" 10 mm; when we have it we will create the gloves with a half of a sphere with these measures: width 9 mm, length 7.32 mm and height 12 mm. And with that the arms we incline them and we position it just under the strap of the overalls. For the shoes we will need the "Paraboloid" following these measures: width 21 mm, length 15.83 mm and height 7 mm; when we already have it, we will put it just below the pants and ready with that we are done with our minion funko. To export it to the Ultimaker Cura 3d printer, we will only have to go to the top option that says "Export" and choose the format (.STL).

Step 7: File Transport and Configuration of the 3D Printer Parameters

We continue by choosing the printer brand "Creality" with the type "Creality Ender-3” and we go to the top left corner and choose from our documents the file saved earlier.Then let's see the settings to print our 3D funko the first thing we have to know is to modify, we start with "Quality" which is the quality of the object we want to print, in this case you can only modify from 0.5 to 0.32, but in this case we will put 0.2 to enter less material and finish faster.

We continue with "Walls" which are the walls that will contain our project; here in the option that says "Wall Thinkness" goes only from 0.4 to 0.4 with respect to the number of layers that we want to put that would be "Wall Line Count", in this case we will modify the "Wall Thinkness" with 1.2 and in "Wall Line Count" it will automatically be set to 3 mm.

Step 8: Configuration of the 3D Printer Parameters

In "Top/Bottom" which is Top down and Bottom up, Top and Bottom are modified in the same way; well in this case nothing will be modified, it will be left as it comes from the factory.

In "Infill" which is the density of the object, that is the filling of the object so that it is not hollow; generally 7% of "Infill Density" is used if we want the object to be printed to be an ornament, but if it is for industrial use we would put 80% of "Infill Density". In this case we will put it at an intermediate level 15% and we will also modify the pattern that we want our filler to have which is the "Infill Patterm", it turns out that the triangle pattern is much more resistant, so let's choose that one among the option that appears.

Step 9: Configuration of the 3D Printer Parameters

In "Material" which is the 3D printing filament, the configuration that comes from factory the "Printing Temperature" is asking us that the head melts at 200°C and the "Build Plate Temperature" indicates a temperature of 50°C in the bed which is the bottom grid, well in this case the bed has to be slightly hot for the plastic base of the object to melt so that it remains attached to the bed and does not move.

Step 10: Configuration of the 3D Printer Parameters

In "Speed" is the printing speed that you can also modify in all parts of the object, in this case it will be left with 50 mm/s. In "Travel" are the trips made, the "Enable Retraction" is an option that retracts a little the material so that it does not leave any delay and the "Z hop When Retrasted" you have to be active.

Step 11:

In "Cooling" is the ventilation that we always have to leave it at 100% to maintain the exact temperatures. In "Support" are the supports, but it is when it is necessary, in this case we are going to leave it as it is. In "Build Plate Adhesion" is the type of adhesion that I want, we will leave it with "Skirt" which are the lines that are around the object.

Step 12:

And when we have it ready just give "Save to Disck" to save it and we will see that it will be saved with a format (.GCODE). And now we only copy this file to a memory and I take to my printer and I give print to this file and ready I hope you liked it, until another opportunity.