This instructable shows how to adapt the GoPro Hero2 camera to fit on a large fishing lure (or jigger) so that you can observe the fish that are within range and also see the action during the catch. There is a limited time opportunity to fish for cod in my area so I wanted to take advantage of the schedule to get all the information that I could. I decided to try the "flat adhesive mount" that was supplied with the camera. The "curved adhesive mount" would probably work as well but which to select depends on the shape of the lure used. The Hero2 is rated down to 197 feet (60 meters) but I didn't want to push it for this try so I rigged my reel with about 130 feet of line. Fortunately the line was long enough for the area we fished in (see the video below). My only previous experience with the Hero2 camera was to mount it on a wooded stick to observe trout in my small backyard pond. I did a video of that and posted it on youtube at this url: http://youtu.be/PkegTS7decE

The procedure to adapt the mount to the lure has been recreated in the following steps. I used my drill press to make the holes and to countersink but a hand drill would work just as well.

Keep in mind that there is a fair risk that the camera and lure could be lost if you run into a big fish or if you get a serious snag.

The video below shows my experience with the camera on the lure (aka Cod Cam). Not shown is when the hook was torn free of the lure when the split ring (connects the hook to the lure body) allowed the fish to twist the hook free. (I might get to make a separate video later showing that action.)

Step 1:

Step 2:

Drill a hole through the lure body far enough up from the hook to allow the camera to see the hook and the surrounding action. I used a 3/16 inche drill to accomodate the flat-head machine screw that I selected. Remove the burrs with a counter sink bit (or a much larger twist drill).

Step 3:

This is the most important step as you must drill a hole through the plastic rib that runs down the length of the mount. Best to start with a smaller drill size to act as a pilot hole for the final drill size. Also, it is essential that you counter sink the hole enough to ensure that the head of the screw does not interfere with the attachment of the mating camera bracket. Make a few test tries as you increase the depth of the counter sink. I decided to leave the foam pad (that has an adhesive coating) on the mount so that it would help the mount to conform to the shape of the lure and also to let it serve as spring locking method for the screw/nut.

Step 4:

Test to make sure the screw head does not interfere with the mating of the mounting parts. Once this is taken care of you can go ahead and attach the flat mount to the lure with the screw and nut. No need to say that it is essential to make this a very tight connection because of the possibility of the two loosening up and ...

I didn't use it, but might be a good idea to use a chemical locking compound between the screw and nut to give extra insurance against losing the whole shebang.

So that's it - do what you do to attach the line to the lure and get fishing!

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67 Comments

MartinJ78

5 years ago

Look at this tutorial and learn how to Live Stream from GoPro: https://www.yatko.com/live-streaming/gopro-live-streaming

S Connally

5 years ago

If you're going to try this, you might want to try it on a less expensive action camera. Maybe try this one

gold20

7 years ago

What if the line snaps?

temery

7 years ago

It's a great idea, but I don't want to risk losing my $400 camera in a lake somewhere.

Tim Temple

9 years ago on Introduction

It is the poor man's sonar. Set a timer for when you push the button on the camera. Log the time at each ten feet you let the camera down. Pull it back up and put the CD in the computer. See where the fish are at a certain time. Translate that to feet below the surface. Fish at that depth until you get your limit.

It was funny watching those stupid fish hitting on the camera!