Golf Ball Gun!!! How to Make One That Can Shoot 400+ Yards!




Introduction: Golf Ball Gun!!! How to Make One That Can Shoot 400+ Yards!

About: I love building things that shoot other things whether they be small plastic BBs or 135g steel ball bearings. If you need help with a spudgun feel free to ask on Instructables or on Spudfiles. My username on …
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This is my golfball gun, it features a 2" barrel sealing piston with 1.5" porting. The chamber is made from 2" Pressure Rated PVC pipe and the barrel is 1.5" PVC pipe. For more information go to:,p,100616.html#100616

Big Thanks to Nicholas Benigni, owner of
You can find his website and spudgun products here:

Note: In the video I am wearing safety glasses you just can't see me, the shot at the end without them is perfectly safe as I was only firing air.

I also have more then enough objects as a back stop to make certain the projectile doesn't go all the way.

One shot I am firing into the open, I was shooting a golfball 380m at a golf course that was closed due to weather 50m away.

You may need to use some Lube to help the piston slide easier:

Step 1: How It Works:

1) Air is sent through the inlet valve, this pushes the piston(green) forward and sealing the barrel, the air leaks around the chamber and fills the chamber up.

2) Once the air is equalized all around the chamber and valve, the inlet valve is closed.

3) When you want to fire, you open the pilot valve and all the air behind the piston(pilot area) vents out this valve, since the pressure on the piston is un-equalized with more pressure at the front pushing it back, then pushing it forward the piston actuates.

4) The piston flies back at incredible speed and all the air goes out the barrel and launches the projectile.

That's how simple it is.

Step 2: Parts

All you need to make a more basic version of this is:

*3" NSF-PW Sch40 PVC(chamber)
*1.5" SDR 21 PVC(Barrel)
*3" NSF-PW Sch40 PVC end cap
*2" NSF-PW Sch40 PVC End Cap
*2" NSF-PW Sch40 PVC tee
*3"-2" PVC Bushing
*3" NSF-PW Sch40 PVC 90* elbow
*3" NSF-PW Sch40 PVC 6" long pipe x 2(these join your fittings together)
*2"x1.5" NSF-PW Sch40 PVC bushing
*2" NSF-PW Sch40 PVC 3"x1"
female threaded bushing
*1" threaded ball valve
*1"x1/4" bushing
*1/4" quick connect(for air compressor)

PVC Glue
PVC Primer
Common Sense
Deodorant Can(for your piston)
Neoprene sealing face.

Step 3: Piston Construction.

To make a piston for a 2" PVC tee all you need is:

*Deodorant can
*Neoprene rubber gasket(found in plumbing section, this is your sealing face)
  • Suitable bumber
*Hot glue

Now cut the bottom 3" of your deodorant can, cut up some hot glue sticks, chuck 'em in there and melt them. Now your piston should be about 1/2 full with glue for reinforcement.

Drill a hole the size of your long bolt through the bottom of the can and through the glue, grab a washer that fits the bolt, put it on and then put your sealing face on the bolt with the washer on top.

Now thread the bolt through the hole in the cane and through the glue, it should come out on the other side, now find something thats soft and bouncy or rubbery as your bumper, this protects your tee from the piston breaking it when it fires back.

Put your bumper on the bolt and stick a washer on and then a nut, tighten the nut and thats your piston done.

In the picture below I had to seal the top of the sealing face because air leaked through the piston a bit.
The bottom of the piston in the picture is my bumper.

Step 4: Piston Housing Construction

Now you have two options:

1)Servicable piston housing(incase it breaks you can open it up)
2) Non serviceable piston housing(if it breaks your screwed)

I recommend the first option, now to achieve this you are going to need to cut a length of 2" Sch40 PVC pipe so it goes all the way inside the tee and hits the 'lip' inside the tee, now cut the pipe so it has about 7cm of pipe coming out of the tee, so the pipe would be around 15cm in total length.

With the 7cm of pipe coming out the back of the tee(which is your pilot btw) fit your end cap on it, if when fitted on there is still pipe visable between the end cap and tee, cut the piece of 2" pipe(the 15cm long one) so there is no pipe when the end cap is on fully.

Now with your end cap on, grab four screws that are long enough to go through the end cap and piece of pipe but still long enough the stop the piston when it moves back. So a screw thats about 3cm long should do.

Drill four holes evenly around the end cap and through the 2" pipe which its on, so you should have 4 holes, one at 12 o clock, one at 3, one at 6 and one a 9.

Now thread the screws in to make the threads in the pipe. Now remove the end cap, screws, 2" pipe, we will glue it later.

Step 5: Pilot Setup

Okay now you need your pilot valve and inlet valve.

The inlet valve you hook up to your air compressor, to fill the chamber up.

The pilot valve vents the 'pilot area' and actuates the piston which fires the gun. For this I recommend a 1/2" ball valve.

How you set this up is up to you but the basics what you need are:

1/2" Brass tee
1/2"-1/4" brass bushing
1/4" metal ball valve
1/4" quick connect(inlet valve)
1/2" metal ball valve.
1/2" brass nipple x 2

Using teflon tape thread one of the brass nipple in the bottom of the brass tee.

Still using teflon, thread the other nipple into one of the other ends of the brass tee, now thread your metal ball valve onto the other end of the nipple(this is your pilot valve).

Now teflon up your 1/2"-1/4" bushing and thread it in the final port of the brass tee, now thread your 1/4" ball valve in here and then your quick connect(this is because a QC doesnt have a valve and once disconnected will just let out air, the ball valve when shut will stop this)

Once everything is thread and working, drill a hole in your 2" end cap from the back of your piston housing. Thread the brass tee with the nipple into this and your set.

Step 6: Barrel Setup

When cementing and priming the barrel into the tee(which I will explain later) the barrel needs to extend through the bushing and into the tee like the picture below.

That pretty much explains it, you just need to modify the bushing so the barrel can extend through it.

Step 7: Putting It Together.


Drill a hole in your chamber for a pressure guage and thread it in and then....

Grab your chamber of 3" pipe, a 50" chamber will do.
Prime the pipe at one end, prime your 3" end cap, then glue the end of the chamber where the primer ios and do the same for the end cap. Stick it on and hold for 30sec.

Get one of your off-cuts of 3" pipe and prime and glue to the other end of the chamber so about 3" of pipe is still sticking out the end of the chamber, prime and glue your 3" 90* elbow onto this.

Prime and glue your 3"x2" bushing into the other end of the elbow, then prime and glue it to the bottom of the pisotn housing(tee)

Shove your 2"x1 1/2" bushing over your barrel so when the bushing is primed and glued into your tee the barrel should extend isnide the tee half way like in the picture in step 6.

Once you have sorted out this, prime and glue the bushing to your barrel, then prime and glue the bushing(with barrel on it) to the front of your tee.

Lube up your piston and isnide of the tee, chuck it in there and stick on the end cap which you are going to bolt one. DO NOT GLUE IT! Now that your end cap complete with pilot valve and etc out the back of it, is on your 2" pipe which is connected to the tee, line up the screw holes and screw them in.

Personally I use screws like this but with an allen key head in them:

Okay, thats everything I think, just wwait 24hours for it to dry and test it out. The piston will probably require either intense pumping from a bike pump or about 15psi from a compressor to seal, I can get mine to seal at 7PSI and shoot at 10psi.

I recommend not taking the gun over 130psi for safety reasons.

Step 8: The End....My Only Friend

That just about does it. Make sure you prime the pipe first then glue it using PVC solvent, just read the label on the back and you should be fine.

How you set up your piston is up to you, if you want it serviceable or not etc. Just drop into for more help.

If you hurt/injure/kill yourself/someone else, while making this pneumatic gun I am not liable. By using these instructions you are making this at your own risk. Make sure you know exactly what you are doing first.

Drop into and make sure you know what you're doing.

SGA Cannon:,p,100616.html#100616

Step 9: Time to Have Fun

Now it's time to shoot some stuff.

Personal favourites:

Nothing(Distance shots)
Mounds of dirt/cliffs
sheet metal
anything you can find that isn't living.

Here's a video of me shooting a watermelon and a pumpkin with a basic golfball gun I made:

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    6 years ago

    Are you willing to make one of these for me and sell it to me I need one that can shoot 450 at least name your price
    Lmk 7276563358


    7 years ago on Introduction

    Danger: See link: This is not spam, but a warning. PVC will fail suddenly after a while. This was band member that hurt badly by a T-Shirt launcher explosion.

    See the pictures and never use PVC to hold air, Please.


    10 years ago on Introduction

    A friend and I built one similar to this - using a sprinkler valve as a trigger tho. For a piston we used a piece of exhaust pipe with 2 round plats welded to each end. Used some sheets of gasket and such to make seals and bumpers for the ends.
    We setup a ballistics pendulum to try to get a reading on the speed of a golf ball and after breaking several of them we finally got something around 700ft/sec for a muzzle velocity. Our measuring whole setup was overly accurate, but I willing to say were in +/- 60ft/sec, which still puts that golf ball going really freaken fast (something like 400-500MPH)


    Reply 10 years ago on Introduction

    I would have used to think 700fps was impressive but then I started building hybrids and now I'm shooting golfballs at around 1600fps :D

    Pneumatics can be fun but don't even come close in power and usually cost the same to build as a hybrid.


    10 years ago on Step 2

    how much psi would you pump it up to if you wanted the golfball to shoot 400 yards like you said?


    11 years ago on Step 2

    I was wondering what kind of can is the best for this like a specific brand or something. i was also wondering how much this costs about for a basic version?


    Reply 11 years ago on Step 2

    Depends. Just go to a store and try different brands. Things are different in NZ (where im from) compared to the USA.

    Same thing goes for the pricing. Check out my other instructables for better ideas such as a different way to make a piston.

    In America I would guess this would cost you about $100USD for a basic version.


    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

     I'm live in NZ and am just wondering what type of can you used. Or would a coke can work? 


    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    Not sure, do you mean the new V sized coke cans? Possibly. Though I no longer recommend using them. You get far better performance if you just make your piston from wood, cut an o-ring groove and water treat the wood so it doesn't expand from moisture.

    I made this cannon when I was quite inexperienced and only about 14 or 15.
    If you have a better idea for a piston, go ahead and use it. Just remember that the piston has to be a pretty damn good fit.

    If you have a 1mm gap around the piston between the piston and the piston housing wall (what the piston goes inside), that equals about 160mm^2 of area. If your piston is 6cm long, that's about 960ml's or 960mm^3 of volume that the pilot valve has to get rid off. If your pilot volume is too small, this area could fill up with air faster than the pilot valve can get rid of it. Which means all your air goes out your pilot volume and your piston doesn't open.

    Your piston should fit nicely (always use vaseline or some lubricant) and shouldn't be too difficult to moven with a few pounds of force. If you can turn the cannon verticle and piston moves without any pushing, it is probably too loose.

    Let me know how your cannon goes, i'll be glad to help so you don't mess things up and waste hundreds of dollars like I did. Remember to always buy pressure rated pipe as well! I wrote this article here about identifying pressure rated pipe, I specifically wrote a part on NZ/Aus pipe:



    Reply 11 years ago on Step 2

    thanks. but also how do you attach the valves to the end cap on the back of the piston valve. i could use reducers to get it down to 1/2 inch but is there an easier way


    Reply 11 years ago on Step 2

    Check out my other instructable.


    11 years ago on Introduction

    can you buy the 1.5" sdr21 pvc pipe at home depot or lowes?


    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    Depends where you live. Some lucky people have found it at their local stores.


    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

     I can get mine locally but I have to go to a plumbers supply store, the have a giant scrap pile and sold me 8 feet for 75 cents


    11 years ago on Introduction

    I was trying to watch your animation, but I found it difficult to take in everything displayed.  It would be much better if you showed it in multiple pictures or had a button on the picture to advance the stages more slowly.  Just a suggestion. :)


    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    Ah I see now.  That helps a lot!!  Thank You!

    knex luver123
    knex luver123

    11 years ago on Introduction

    oops i said that in my friends login, he came over and we got on, he is cboyer123, so that was me.