Hack Your Prius Rear Emblem (with Pictures) Version 2

Introduction: Hack Your Prius Rear Emblem (with Pictures) Version 2

This is a continue instructable to bling out your 2012 Prius rear emblem. Ver 1 was a proof of concept, please go https://www.instructables.com/id/Hack-Your-Prius-R... for detail car disassemble.

My previous hack was for fitting a Toyota logo. This Millennium falcon, or any custom models need to cover the 3 large mounting holes, plus a custom mounting plate and wiring.


All the hardware tools you need from my previous instructable for panel removals, plus:

1- Transparent ABS filament https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y545ZB3/ref=p...

2- Silver spray paint https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7271830-Stops-Me...

3- breadboard jumper wires https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HFVBNXR/ref=p...

4- 20 gauge 2 pin red/black wire

5- Utility knife & blow torch.

6- Any cool models that you can scale & fit inside a 140mm x 95mm oval. Many avail on Thingieverse.

7- Any CAD & slicer program. I use TinkerCAD & FlashPrint

8- super glue

Step 1: Rear Panel Removal & Wiring

Follow my steps for prius rear trunk panel removal https://www.instructables.com/id/Hack-Your-Prius-R...

Make sure to remove battery terminals before starting. After running wires & test with LED strip, sider in a pair of female jumper cables (this is so you can easily swap out your next design without removing panels again)

Step 2: Pick You Model & Print

You'll need to design and print a 140mm x 95mm x 5mm plate, inner rim of 3mm. This is to cover the 3 holes on the rear bumper panel, plus whatever display model you want.

Now, go find your favorite model,

Millennium Falcon is here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1534283

Star Trek is logo is here https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gDhPgq18FiO-groov...

Scale your model to fit on mounting plate, and slice it bottom flat and hollow out openings for LED

Print both on transparent ABS and check for scale & fitting on your Prius. Mine was white,

Step 3: Design & Mounting Your Model Plate Hooks.

This is the most challenging part. I design snap-on hooks so I can I swap in other designers later without removal body panels again. Skip this & permanently glue the whole thing.

I clamp on the mounting plate against bumper panel, mark my dimension & depth with a caliper, and designed some 17.25mm x 7.5mm x 4mm hooks. Use a blow touch to trim out excessive materials, and glue on the two mounting studs hook down. Wait 10 mins and try a fitting. (Repeat if needed) If done right, you should get a snug fit. Push gently downward for that final 2mm, satisfyingly snap sound.


Step 4: Light Up Your Model

Paint your model, let dry overnight, and run LED for testing. Trim away any plastics that's in the way with heated knife. Once light pattern is stable, glue in the light strip.

Drill thru mounting plate, run wires thru & solder in a pair of male jumper pins. Finally, glue your model onto mounting plate.

Step 5: Drill Thru Your Trunk Release Handle

Don't try to run your new power lines thru existing metal holes, they're all being use and will pinch & risk shorting out.

Instead, take trunk release switch & drill a small 1/8" hole, run wires thru there instead.

Step 6: Final Assembly

Put in some tape before installing the real panel. Push in the panel pins gently. Do final test before reassembly.

Enjoy your new costume Start Wars logo.

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