Heated Build Chamber for Rapman 3D Printer




Introduction: Heated Build Chamber for Rapman 3D Printer

This is an Instructable for a heated build chamber to house a Rapman 3.2 3D Printer. I chose the Rapman 3.2 because of it's relatively large print area, user friendly interface and the available dual extrusion upgrade. Assembly of the kit was simple and I found myself printing in no time; however, I soon began to experience warping in larger printed objects. After a bit of research, I began weighting the pros and cons of a heated build chamber vs a heated bed platform. The idea of a chamber was more attractive because I felt it would be easier for "me" to construct. I am no longer experiencing warping and there is also a noticeable dampening of the sound which the printer motors create.

The dimensions of the chamber are 32 in. width x 33.5 in. height x 24 in. depth. I would imagine that the chamber could accommodate a different 3D printer (such as a Prusa Mendel or similar RepRap) with or without (depending on the model) some modifications. Thanks for checking out this Instructable and if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
- Happy Building

Step 1: Project Overview

- The heated chamber is primarily constructed from Corrugated Plastic Sheets, bonded using a hot glue gun (mini). For the purpose of this Instructable I have divided the heated chamber into three color coded sections (see image above).

Step 2: Tools and Supplies


- Rapman 3.2 3D Printer
- Reflectix 24 in. x 25 ft. Staple Tab Insulation Roll
- Plaskolite 24 in. x 36 in. Corrugated Plastic Sheets (11 sheets)
- LEXAN 11 in. x 14 in. Clear Polycarbonate Sheet (0.093 in. thick)
- Nashua Tape FlexFix 1-7/8 in. x 361 ft. Flex Duct Tape
- GE 18 in. Basic Plug-In Undercabinet Light
- Acurite Wireless Thermometer #00822A2
- Feature Comforts Ceramic Electric Heater #0042722
- Cabinet Hardware Pull
- Everbilt 2 in. Non-Removable Pin Hinges
- 6-32 x 3/8 / M2.8 x 9.5 Round Combo Bolt w/Nuts
- #6 Flat Washers
- #4-40 x 1/2" Round Head Bolt w/Nuts
- Glue Sticks
- White 1.88 x 20yd Duct Tape
- Double-sided Tape


- Glue Gun
- 36 to 48 in. Ruler
- Utility Knife
- Scissors
- Screw Driver
- Sharpie Marker

Step 3: Printing Files

The print files are attached below in PDF format. I broke them up into two files which can be taken to a local Fedex/Kinkos and printed using a wide format b/w printer. Another option would be to have the parts cut directly from Corrugated Plastic Sheets using a CNC Router. Each Corrugated Plastic Sheet measures 24 in. x 36 in. Print file 1 contains parts laid out over 5 sheets (120 in. x 36 in.) and Print file 2 contains parts laid out over 4 sheets (96 in. x 36 in.). If you choose to print the files using a wide format printer, once printed, cut both sheets every 24 in. vertically (this will result in nine 24 in. x 36 in. sheets). Next, use removable double sided tape to temporarily attach the printed sheets to the Corrugated Plastic Sheets. Use a ruler and a utility knife to CAREFULLY cut each shape out.

Note: To avoid damaging your floor, I suggest using an extra sheet of Corrugated Plastic as a surface to cut on.

Step 4: Assembling Chamber

Each part is labeled and can be assembled following the illustrations below.

Note: In case the jpegs are hard to view, I have also attached PDFs of each section (parts labeled) in steps 4,5, and 6.

Step 5: Assembling Chamber Door

Step 6: Assembling Heater Box

Step 7: Final Assembly and Insulation

- Now that each section (chamber, chamber door and heater box) is assembled, it's time to apply the insulation.

- Using a black marker, pair of scissors and a hot glue gun, cover the inner walls of the chamber, chamber door and heated box with Reflectix Insulation. Use Nashua Flex Duct Tape to cover gaps and corners.

- Once each section is insulated, it's time for the final assembly. After mounting the GE 18 in. Basic Plug-In Undercabinet Light to the inside of CB1, attach the chamber door to CT1 with two Everbilt Hinges.

- The Heater Box can be attached to the Chamber just using Nashua Flex Duct Tape on the inside once the Heated Build Chamber is placed over the 3D printer (in it's permanent location).

Step 8: Print Results

- As stated earlier, I am no longer experiencing warping with my larger prints.

- I use an Acurite Wireless Thermometer to occasionally monitor the temperature inside of the chamber. Typically, I keep the temperature at around 95 °F.

If there are any aspects of this instructable which are unclear or if you wish for me to go into greater detail on a certain step, feel free to ask.

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    Cold Shoulder Media

    I'm building a heated plywood cabinet for my prusa mendel, and was very happy to find your instructable!

    I'm very curious about your electronics, temp monitoring, and method for airflow.

    Let me know more about how you wired everything, and what you would do differently if you did this again.



    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    My apologies for taking so long to reply. I use a wireless Acu-rite model: 00822A2 (from Home Depot) to monitor the temperature of the chamber from my desk. When printing large parts I keep the temperature at around 120 F. The side of the chamber houses the ceramic heater. There is ventilation on the side of the chamber and I usually keep the top only partially covered while the heater is on. If I have a job that needs to print over night, I will turn the heater off and fully cover the side compartment (which is where the insulation comes in handy). The ceramic heater has a built in fan, so that help the air circulate. On a side note, the type of heater that I use is not intended for this purpose and if it is completely covered while activated over and extended period of time, it will overheat and become damaged. I hope this answered you questions and if you need to know anything else feel free to ask.


    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    Excellent solution, but as others have commented on in other blogs, there can be problems with acrylic warping at over 140f(60c), which would destroy your machine or loosen it very much, so as a warning to those doing this to monitor the temp and keep it cool...inside the heated chamber. In fact, you actually keep it at 95F for most builds and only go up to 120 if it's a big build right? The heated build chambers recommending over 60c have special accomodation for cooling the print head, and they must be used for nonacrylic printers, right?
    What filament are you using..or does that ever really matter since youre operating at 120f or less?
    Is 95f to 120f really adequate all the time to eliminate warping? If so then why are many chambers said to operate at 70-90c(154f-190f)?