Introduction: High Tech Edelweiss (LED KIT) With Custom PCB

About: Hi to all! I create technological couture; with a background in fashion design combined with engineering, science and interaction design, I create systems around the body that tend towards artificial intellige…

3D printed Electronic Edelweiss KIT created in Tyrol - an #OpenSource project as part of the Swarovski_IIR program. This High-Tech Edelweiss functions as an DIY kit for promotion of electronics + coding to an broad audience of kids +makers – anyone that wants to learn electronics or tinker-with in a playful way! This tech-infused piece of jewellery has an embedded reprogrammable ATTiny, a battery, LED's and an light sensor:

Whenever you walk into the dark – your Edelweiss necklace will shine bright to guide you <3


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For this 2-Hour tutorial you need:

- PCB + Electronics set (bought at AISLER) or milled yourself using the EAGLE files
- 3D Print (bought at SHAPEWAYS or printed yourself using the .STL

To program the ATtiny you need; an Arduino (UNO), Electrolytic Decoupling Capacitors - 10uF/25V (1x), jumping wires (M/M)

Tools you need: Soldering iron, Solder, Pliers, Tape + your Computer with Arduino installed.

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photography: Robert Lunak

- A collaboration with AISLER (PCB manufacturer) and ALPIN3D (3DP on a FormLabs)
- Created at Werkstatte Wattens/Fablab Swarovski_IIR (Austria)
- PCB created by Anouk Wipprecht/Joshua Brooks in AutodeskEAGLE (free PCB design software by Autodesk) download it NOW!

Step 1: ORDER YOUR PARTS (PCB+Electronics & 3D Print)

Made it very easy this time!

The Custom PCB + all the parts that you need can be ordered through AISLER
The 3D print* can be ordered through SHAPEWAYS

You can also just take the .STL which is uploaded here.

*prototyped with Simon of Alpin3D in Tyrol


You can skip this step when you are ordering your boards, but might you want to mill them out yourself - NOTE that file needs to be customised. But see attached files;

If you have an mill you can mill them out, for example using an Othermill. I would say - this would be an easy solution and by def. the cheapest one around. So it might be worth checking your local Makerspace, Hackerspace, Fablab or TechShop if they have an mill that you can!

SHARE BACK!! - Share back out here when you did so others might be able to use your file!

Step 3: GOT ALL? Let's GO!

So - by this step:

* you got your 3D printed #HighTechEdelweiss part
* you got the custom PCB (either milled or ordered)
* you got your Electronics (found in BOM) (sents automatically with the AISLER boards!)


The first step is to take all elements and put them together on the board in the correct way so it looks like attached layout.

Step 4: Place Your RESISTORS

Place your resistors: the 12 Ohm Resistor at the left side,
the 22K Ohm resistor at the right side, the orientation doesn't matter.

Then solder them at the backside of the board.

Step 5: Place Your LED

Place your LED's. LED's have an ANODE (+) and an CATHODE (-), make sure that you put the long leg (ANODE (+)) pointed to the right side when you put in the LED's. Push them close to the board and then solder them. You can spread the LED's legs in order to make them hold before you solder!


Ready? No - for sure not: You're missing your BRAIN! This is where the ATtiny comes in: the microcontroller.

ATtiny is a cheap and powerful alternate when u don't need too many PWM pins. Since ATtiny85 is just a microcontroller we need a Arduino (Uno) to program. Otherwise our circuitry would be wayyy too big ;)

Let's do it!


Make sure you have ARDUINO.CC installed on your computer (it's free // open source) or are working on a computer with the latest version of Arduino installed! Install ATTiny support on here if it's non discoverable.


Take the attached code - and place this in your 'Arduino' folder.


To program the ATtiny you need; an Arduino (UNO), Electrolytic Decoupling Capacitors - 10uF/25V (1x), jumping wires (M/M) - follow THIS INSTRUCTABLES TO KNOW HOW using the code that is attached to this step.

Step 7: Place Your ATTiny But NOTE the DOT!

Next up once you flashed in the animation for the LED, you can solder it directly to the board if you want!
NOTE the orientation!!

[IMPORTANT] - there is a white dot on the PCB, it corresponds with the little dot/dent in the ATtiny - align them! So they both point the same direction.

Solder ahead! Make sure the tip of your soldering iron is clean! Since the legs are pretty close together ;)

Step 8: SOLDER Everything UP!

Now the fun part: make sure you have your soldering iron, and put it on to heat up, got some pliers, soldering tin, and maybe some other tools on your desk to make sure you don't have to walk away from a hot soldering iron to get them! ;)

To solder: put your soldering iron first on the (gold) plates to heat them up, and then put some soldering tin - this would smooth your process since it will melt right away.

Last step: make sure all the gold plates are covered and cut all of you left over wire short so it cannot short-circuit anywhere and thus - destroy your circuitry! Especially the two LED pins where you push your battery in - put a bit of tape over it so it doesn't scratches the battery when you change it.

Step 9: Place Your BUTTON and BATTERY HOLDER

Turn over your design to place the button and battery holder at backside:
take your button and gently push it in the trace so it holds, solder it together.

Also do this with the battery holder. Make sure it's in the right position pointing down!

Step 10: Place Your LIGHT SENSOR

Place your photocell // light sensor in the last two holes, in the front;
the orientation doesn't matter. And also solder this up.

Step 11: TRY IT OUT!

Now put the 3D printed enclosure on there and TRY IT OUT!
Push the button! Pushing the button means it gives you 3 kinds
of animations, and the 4th time you push you put it on off-mode.


SHARE // TWEET // INSTA Under #HighTechEdelweiss;
use the tag #HighTechEdelweiss once you made it <3

You can also tag me in there under #AnoukWipprecht so I can see and repost how #BADASS you guys are!

photography: Robert Lunak (Vienna, Austria)


* Disclamer: NO Edelweiss got hurt through the making of this #HighTechEdelweiss Instructable!