Leather Travel Journal 2.0

I'm feeling a bit sentimental and nostaligic at the moment as I'm in the process of selling my house and moving halfway across the country. It's also been right at 5 years since I first joined the Instructables community and published my first project, which was a travel journal and also my very first project working with leather. As I have a baby shower coming up and need a gift for my travel buddy, I thought I would revisit my first Instructable with a 2.0 version as a kind of reflective exercise before all my craft things get packed away for months during the moves.

The concept of this journal is symbolically giving the child the gift of travel. I gambled at the supposed location of birth and put a diamond at the position of Denver on the Map as a signifier. I was not told a name, but know the baby’s female, so just went with Miss, followed by her parents last name. The updates to this version are: 3D printed leather stamps, printed pages of states and US land marks to check off as she visits each, book mark with charm, elastic closure (lays flatter for stamping and maybe easier for youngster to operate), pockets for postage stamps and other memorabilia, cutout and foil quotes and embellishments.

Step 1: Supplies and Templates

What I used:

Basic Journal Materials

• Vegtan Leather (about 5 to 6 oz) 26 cm by 15.5 cm

• Vegtan Leather (about 3 to 4 oz) 12" by 1/2" (Yes, I know I'm mixing inches and cm, but sometimes in creation mode you just use whatever seems the most natural for that element, not thinking about the whole)

• 28 Letter Sized Paper Sheets (8.5" by 11") 67lb White Cover Stock
• 4 Yards (appox.) of 1 mm Mahogany Leather Cord (half for binding, half for bookmark)
• 1 12" by 12" Black Color Core Cardstock
• 1 Letter Sized Gold Paper Sheet (8.5" by 11")
• Charm
• Flat Braided Elastic 1/4" (approx. 5")

Dying

• Eco-Flo Gel Antique in Mahogany
• Eco-Flo Super Shene
• Eco-Flo Satin Shene
• Fiebing's USMC Black Leather Dye
• Gloves
• Sheep Skin Pad
• Paint Brush (Small)
• Work Surface Protection
• Sponge Applicator
• Paint Tray

General Tools

• Craft Blade
• Awl
• Scissors
• Bone Folder
• Ruler
• Cutting Mat
• Granite Block
• Leather Stamps (1/4" Alphabet Set) (Or just 3D print the name too! Recommended)
• Nylon Hammer
• 2 Prong Diamond Stitching Chisel (for spacing)
• 1/2 Oblong Punch
• Glue Stick
• Low-Stick Tape

3D Printing

• 3D Printer
• PLA Filament
• Sand Paper
• 6 Ton A-Frame Bench Shop Press

Templates

If you have access to a Cricut, you can use these. (Did you know many libraries have Cricuts?)

• Cricut Cover Template Project
• Cricut Insert Pages Project

Or you can print a template from my previous Instructable (the only differnce is that uses 5 holes across 2 cm, while this project uses 8 holes across the same 2 cm.

• Leather National Parks Passport Journal

Step 2: Design Leather Stamp

I used TinkerCAD to Design the leather stamp.

General Steps if you want to design your own

1. Import SVG of Map outline
2. Add a bounding box (I chose a heart)
3. Set bounding box to 7mm high
4. Raise Map up 2mm
5. Set Map to Hole
6. Group Bounding Box and Map together
7. Mirror Horizontally
8. Export as STL

Step 3: 3D Printed Stamp

I printed the file using PLA filament at 100% infill and then sanded the ridges smooth.

Step 4: Cut Leather

Using a scratch awl, I traced the template onto a salvaged leather cover that had been marred when I over pressed it and the stamp twisted. I then used a craft blade to cut off the excess. With template in place, I marked my binding holes. I then removed the paper, and used the awl to punch all the binding holes.

Step 5: Thoughts on Leather Cutting

I've had a trouble over the years with cutting leather, and I feel I'm finally getting the results that I want. In truth, I think much of it just comes down to practice and getting a feel for it, but if you are new to it, there are 2 important things to keep in mind:

1. Keep the blade vertical. I know it is hard to see, and so you will be tempted to tip your blade slightly sideways, but this makes for a messy and jagged edge.
2. Don't try and cut all the way through the leather in one pass, instead just focus on keeping the blade vertical and cutting straight. You can go over your cuts multiple times until they are all the way through. In the past, I tried this and it didn't work well, and it was because my blade wasn't vertical on my first pass and then when I went over it on subsequent passes, the angle was different and I was essentially cutting tiny micro sized new paths instead of just deepening the first path.

Step 6: Print the List Pages

I created a checklist of states and US landmarks in Word. I set the page size to 4.25" by 5.5" with narrow .3" margins and set the document to a 16 page Booklet. I added 2 columns with dividing line, selected bulleted list, then pasted some lists I copied off the internet so I wouldn't have to type. I left some space at the beginning and end for foiled title and graphics. I saved the document as a PDF.

When I went to print the PDF, I created a custom half sheet size (8.5" by 5.5"). I then printed the odd sheets, reloaded the printer and printed the even sheets in reverse.

Step 7: Prep Paper Pages

To make the paper booklets:

1. Hamburger fold
2. Run bone folder down edge
3. Flip fold, and run bone folder down edge
4. Run folded edge across wet sponge
5. Pull apart
6. Set aside 4 sheets for printer
7. Hamburger fold again
8. Run bone folder down edge

Step 8: Bundle the Pages

Tearing the paper gives one side a feathered edge, or as I like to call it a faux-deckled edge. The problem is that only one side has the feathering, so to make the book look even, I alternate the feathered edge: top, bottom, top, bottom,.... I stack 6 to 8 sheets (I ended up using 7 on this project) using the alternating method, and then fold them all together. I created 8 of these 7 sheet bundles. This will create a 224 page book.

Step 9: Press Map Stamp

I soaked my leather in cold water for about 10 minutes. I then placed one of my metal blocks that come with the press on the frame, followed by the wet leather, then the stamp, and finally by my second block. I made sure the blocks were centered on top of each other. It is important to line everything up so that it will be balanced. My stamp was bigger than my blocks so I knew I would have to do 3 presses, and I chose to start in the middle. I lowered the pressing rod until I couldn't go any further. I happen to have relatively weak upper body strength and this is a dense design, but if you are particularly strong or have a more delicate design, you will need to be careful not to press to much, as it can crush the plastic stamp and warp the design (Yes! I have unfortunately experienced this a few times... GRRRR!!!)

When I released the pressure, water came pouring out. Keeping the stamp locked into the leather so as not to get a double stamped image, I re-centered and pressed the left side of the stamp, and then re-centered again on the right side and pressed. I released the pressure and pulled the stamp out of the leather and then let it air dry overnight.

Step 10: Stamp Name

I ended up deciding to stamping a name on the front cover after I had dyed the cover. This was a complete after thought. It would have been best to have done after it came out of the press while it was still damp. (So, do as I say, and not as I do, and ignore the dye).

Stamping can be super hard! Look at how they are all wonky and out of alignment. My suggestion is that you 3D print the name too, following the previous steps and save yourself the potential heartache if you can. If not, line up each letter and give it a solid wack or two with the nylon mallet.

Step 11: Punch Strap Holes

I eyeballed where I wanted the elastic cover strap to emerge from the back cover and punched two 1/2" oblong holes in the leather. I also marked approximately where Denver was on the map with the tip of the awl.

Step 12: Resist

I knew I wanted the puffed-out states to be a lighter color than the pressed in heart, and so to protect it from the dark dye, I first painted a resist onto the surface of each state. I used the Eco-Flo Super Shene to accomplish this. It can be a bit tricky to work with since it is clear. When it is first applied it will temporarily darken the leather, but as it dries, it returns to its previous color, so keeping track of what has been done and still needs to be isn't always obvious. One thing I noticed is that if I had already done an area, it wouldn't immediately darken when swiped with another layer, so it worked as kind of a check system.

While this step takes along time, it is important to be precise, because the dye will not penetrate anywhere that it drips (and yes, I unfortunately know this from personal experience).

Step 13: Dye

Using a wool applicator, I applied the Eco-Flo antique gel in mahogany across the whole cover. I was going to originally line the journal with suede, and so I didn't apply the dye to the inside during this first step, and then had to go back and get the inside later. Then using the black dye, I painted the inside of the heart and between all the states. I then applied a coat of Super Shene across the whole cover save for the black heart, and for that part finished it with the more matte Satin Shene to absorb light and contrast with the shiny states and mahogany cover.

Step 14: Add Rhinestone Birthplace

Using a little super glue, I affixed a tiny rhinestone approximately where Denver, Colorado is located, and then using a hard flat object, sunk it into the leather a bit in the hopes that it would be less likely to snag on something and rip out.

Step 15: Decorative Stitch

At this point, I was not happy with how it looked. It just felt flat, or like something was missing. So I came up with the idea to add decorative stitching around the heart. Using a 2 prong stitching chisel, I evenly marked holes all around the heart by pressing it into the leather by hand. I then when back in with the scratch awl and made the holes. Using a 1 mm round leather cord, I stitched around the heart and pulled the end cords through one of the stitch loops to secure the ends before cutting off the excess.

Step 16: Tips on Designing Cutouts

I’m a huge fan of negative space and cutouts. It is like a little unexpected surprise. You can use the layouts I created (see supplies and materials above), or use the following tips to construct your own. In Cricut Design Space, I will frequently use the “Hide Contour” button to convert a free standing cutout into a negative space design on a journal page. If you want to create your own quotes, you can search for Stencil Fonts, so that you don’t have missing centers of letters (I’m looking at you a, b, d, e, g, o, p, and q). Caslon is one of my favorites.

Step 17: Cut-outs and Foil

I was given a Foil Quill for my birthday a few years ago and hadn't used it yet, and so was excited to do so. There was a bit of a learning curve as you can see from what I called the "Carnage Pile" made up from all the attempts that did not work between foiling and trying to print the pages into a half-sized booklet. The fine tip was the only one that seemed to give me the results that I was after.

What I ended up doing was run a test run on a scratch piece of paper. I then removed the cut design, leaving the waste paper on the mat. This created a hole to set my printed sheet into. I would then remove the blade or change the parameter box to a different colored pen that I would run empty. Only during the foiling steps would the machine have a tool in place to foil the preprinted sheets.

At my last trip to the craft store, it seems that Foil Quills are now off the shelves and Cricut now has it's own foil tool, so that may be the better option if you want that shiny foil.

Step 18: Bind the Book

I was trying to get this book done and so it was late at night and I really didn't get any good photos of these steps, but I will do my best to explain.

1. Using both ends of approx 1 meter of cord or string, go down through the first set of parallel holes at the top inside of a booklet bundle, then through the lining paper, and finally through the journal cover
2. Both ends should now be on the outside of the cover and the booklet, liner paper, and cover sandwiched together. At this point, take both ends up and through the next set of cover holes, up through the lining, and through the center of booklet #2
3. Cross ends so that they go back through the partner hole in the opposite direction
4. Pull the extra slack out of the loop that was just created and is now holding the pages into the book. Not too tight! (I ended up snapping my cord and had to do weird things to salvage it, also contributing to why there are no good pictures of the process)
5. Both end of the cord should now be on the outside of the book again
6. Go back into the next set of holes with the next booklet repeating steps 2-5
7. Repeat until all booklets are bound on one side of the book
8. Then repeat the previous steps for the holes at the bottom of the bookcover securing and binding the bottom half of the booklets.
9. Then knot it off

Step 19: Add Strap

To add the braided strap I used the mystery braid method (first time trying it).

I cut a 12 inch by 1/2 in rectangle out of a scrap of leather, punched holes in each end, and then cut 2 parallel lines into the leather approximately 1/2 inch from the ends. I then dyed the leather with the mahogany dye and a coat of Super Shene. After it was dry, I proceeded to mystery braid the segment.

Here are 2 resources to learn:

Leather Mystery Braid 1

Leather Mystery Braid 2

After it was braided, I poked the end through the oblong holes on the back of cover, and then poked a strip of elastic through the holes on the ends of the mystery braid, and then sewed the ends of the elastic back on itself.

Step 20: Add Bookmark

I knotted 3 foot long lenghts of 1mm round leather cord together, then slipped on the medal charm. I then braided the cord until it was long enough for the the little travel trailer would hang out of the book. I then took 1 strand of the braid and looped it behind one of the binding cords at the top of the book, and then knotted all 3 strand together, and tucked in the ends behind the pages and between the lining. It was tricky, it would probably be better to just sew it into place when doing the binding.

Step 21: Inscribe Journal

I wrote a message to my friends yet unborn baby and added some pictures of myself and her mother, and then wrapped it up just in time for the baby shower. (Whew! Please tell me I'm not the only one that waits until the last minute on these things. And why does it always take WAY longer than I think?)

Step 22: Get Stamping!

I created a Photo Place Holder Card that is the same size as an Instax Mini instant film photo so that a spot can be reserved for the photo without accidently covering over a stamp. I also included some forever stamps for postcards, which I always think are both fun to send and receive.

You can find the location of the seemingly zillions of US cancelation stamps here.

I've included some pics of my journal for reference, and to illustrate the issue of spacing.

Step 23: Other Examples

Here are some other examples of a set I made for some friends and their 3 kids a few weeks ago for their road trip. Themes Left to Right: Constellations (Northern Hemisphere constellation map made of various sizes of tiny rhinestones), Fern (3D printed stamps), Map (3D printed World Map Stamped into Back Cover), Wildlife (3D printed quote, animal silhouette and tracks cutout folders), and Classic. They also show different closures and bindings.

Last year I also made a larger book from tabloid sized sheets. It was lined with an orange suede with a botanical embedded lining paper.

Step 24: Thanks for Looking!

Thanks and feel free to ask questions or make comments on typos, things that need clarified, or ideas that would make a better journal. I also love seeing others creations and modifications. :)