Hobbit House

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Introduction: Hobbit House

About: I am a high school freshman.

This Instructable is about how to make a Hobbit House from Lord of the Rings/the Hobbit.

This project was largely intuitive-based, so many of the measurements are estimates. It's a largely customize-able project. We looked at other similar projects for reference, but did not copy any of their measurements or follow their instructions.

Supplies

You'll need:

-Wood:

  • (x20) 2" x 3"s (skeleton/frame)
  • (x6) 4' x 8' sheet chipboard, 5/8" (Floor+ Walls)
  • (x2) 4' x 8' sheet Masonite (Roof)
  • (x1) 1" x 12" x 8' Pine (Shelf + Shutters)
  • (x9) 12' Shiplap (exterior siding)

-Tools:

  • Jigsaw
  • Chop-saw
  • Handsaw
  • Circular saw
  • Drill
  • All purpose screws (2", 1", 1 1/4")
  • Measuring tape
  • Sanding block
  • Clamps
  • Staples and staple gun
  • Wood glue

-Other:

  • Plexi-glass (optional)
  • (x2) Shingles, desert tan, 10", QTY 30
  • (x2) Pair of hinges, (x1) pair of fancy hinges for front door
  • (x1) Door handle
  • (x1) Tar paper roll
  • (x9) Cinder blocks
  • Paint (primer and other colors)
  • (x1) Bottle of paintable caulking
  • (x1) bottle of spray foam for insulation

Step 1: Making Your Base

Items used in this step:

-(x2) Sheet Chipboard

-(x2) 2" x 3"s

-Saw

-Eye protection

-(x9) Cinder blocks

Distribute the cinder blocks evenly within the distance of your chipboard. When creating our base, we used 9 cinder blocks and spread them out as shown in the picture above.

After positioning the cinder blocks, lay the sheets of chipboard down on top of them. You want them to be perfectly aligned with each other. As long as they are factory cut, they should be able to sit right beside each other with no trouble.

To make sure your base is sound, you'll want to walk across it. If there are any weak spots, reposition the cinder blocks so that the weight of the chipboard is evenly distributed.

To connect your two sheets of chipboard, you'll need to use two long 2" x 3"s. These measurements can be approximated to fit the chipboard. One will be screwed in all the way across the sheets of chipboard in front, connecting them together. The other will need to be cut into two pieces if you want a back room in the house. If so, cut it into approximately thirds, and use two of them to connect the base. There should be an opening in between them.

Step 2: Creating the Skeleton

Items used in this step:

-(x4) Sheet Chipboard

-Chop saw

-(x9) 2" x 3"s

-Screws, 1"

-Drill

-Measuring tape

-Eye protection

To begin, you'll want to take one sheet of chipboard and measure up to 5'. From the top to there, cut a rounded slope. In the center, you'll need to cut a circle for the door that's 3' in diameter, 2' above the bottom from center.

With 2 more pieces of chipboard, make identical cuts for the slope. The next piece should have an identical slope, but there will need to be a cut made for the window. You can draw rough outline for the circle, about 17" in diameter, and divide it into quarters. It should be 32" from the bottom from center. The quarters can be uneven, as it gives the window a more natural look. Cut out the quarters, leaving a + shaped cross section.

With the 2 pieces that have neither a door nor window, you'll need to make an opening for the optional back room. Using the chop-saw, cut a rectangle in the combined width of the 2 back pieces. It should be 51".

After creating your cuts, you'll need to assemble the skeleton. Take matching front and back pieces and stand them up. You'll need to support them as you connect them, so this part will be much easier with multiple people. Use a 2" x 3" and place it between the two sheets of plywood. The first one should be placed at the very top corner. Screw it in on both sides and move on. You may wish to use more 2" x 3"s for extra support and to give yourself something to nail shingles into.

Continue this process down the slope, as shown above.

To connect both sides, place them flush against each other. There should be a total of four pieces of wood connecting now. Screw them together, and both sides should be connected. After that, screw the bottom of the new walls into the 2" x 3"s holding the base together.

For the optional back room, you'll need to create an extra piece to the skeleton. Take four 2" x 3"s and cut them to [measurement], then screw them together as shown above. Use another 2" x 3" and screw it in the middle. It should look like a rectangle with a cross support.

After that, you'll need to make two more rectangles of a similar shape. These should be 42" wide and look like an extended version of the previous cut.

Screw all of the pieces down on the base, and then screw them into each other and the connecting parts of the existing structure.

Step 3: Making the Walls

Items used in this step:

-2 pieces of chip board

-Jigsaw for curved cuts

-Circular saw for long, straight cuts

-Screws

-Drill

-Measuring tape

-Eye protection

Using a sheet of chipboard, cut it so that it's 4' tall. You'll need to create an identical cut on the other sheet of plywood, but this time, you'll have to cut a 1' x 2' rectangle for a window. There will be a bit of room leftover at the top, but there should be enough scrap chipboard to cut a rectangle that fits within the space.

Screw these walls into place, each on one side of the skeleton. We put the one with the window on the right side.

After creating the main walls, if you're making the back room, you'll need to create three more walls. The side walls for the back room should be 42' each. Screw them into place, and the basic walls should be done.

Also, for the back room, you'll need to cut a piece of plywood as shown above. This will serve as the roof for the back room. Once it's cut, lay it on top of the triangles so that it slants to meet the back chip board wall. Screw it in.

To complete the back roof, cut two triangles out of plywood that match the amount of space you need to fill. Match them up to the skeleton and screw them in.

Step 4: Outer Additions (Shutters, Door, Paneling, Etc.)

Now that the walls are done, you'll need to use several pieces of Shiplap to panel the house. Many custom cuts will need to be made in order to fit it onto the front wall. Shape all of the wood to match the shape of the front wall, which will be about 7' 6" long. Refer to the diagrams above for a better visualization. Then, sand it down.

To make an opening for the doors and windows, line up all the Shiplap you need for the front wall and trace the shape onto the Shiplap. For the window, take its measurements and draw it onto the Shiplap.

Once the shapes are traced onto the Shiplap, you'll need to use the jigsaw to cut them out. Make sure to double-check all measurements before making the cuts.

After everything is cut to your liking, begin installing the Shiplap onto the front wall. Since Shiplap is an interlocking material, it's best that you start with a piece towards the middle. Using the drill, screw the boards into the wall until they're secure. Begin interlocking each piece into the next, and continue to screw them in until the front wall is done.

Before paneling the side walls, you'll need to staple tar paper onto them. Cut it so that it fits within the space and around the window, then staple it on. This will protect the Hobbit House from rain leaking in. Use the remaining Shiplap to panel the side walls. You'll need to cut it to fit around the window on one side and fit within the walls.

As for the back, we didn't panel it because it was facing our fence. If you wish to panel it, just cut the Shiplap to fit in the space of the wall.

Next comes the door. You should have a sheet of textured wood as shown above. Trace the shape of the door onto it, about 3' in diameter, and cut it out. After that, you'll need to sand and paint it. We chose to paint it green, like in Bilbo's house. The paint can be easily mixed or bought at the Home Depot. It is exterior latex paint. After painting the textured wood, paint the plywood circle the same color. Screw them together to create a sturdy door.

Once that's finished, you'll need to add the handle and hinges. Align them to your liking, and screw them onto the door. We bought ours at the Home Depot.

To install the door, you'll need to align it with the hole in the wall. You may need to add an extra layer of wood inside the wall so that the screws don't break through. Once everything is prepared, screw the hinges into the wall. Make sure the door works, and it should be done.

Next comes the shutters for the side window. Cut four 6"-by-12" rectangles out of 1" by 6" pine slabs. If you want, you can cut out a design from it, like the diamonds shown above. Sand and paint them. We chose to paint them the same color as the door. To connect them, take two of the pieces of wood and lay them next to each other. You'll need four 1" by 2" strips of pine. You may wish to cut the ends at a 45 degree angle to allow the shutters to open wider. Sand the wood down, and place them on the shutters as shown above. Use wood glue and screws to secure them down onto the shutters. Repeat this step with the next shutter.

To install them, you'll need four small hinges (two for each shutter). Screw them onto the shutters, and then into the border of the window. Once again, it may be necessary to add a shim, or extra layer of wood, on the inside of the window to prevent the screws from breaking through.

Lastly, paint the front window the same color as the door.

Step 5: Roof

Cut the Masonite to be approximately 8' 6". It may need to be cut into multiple pieces to fit on top. Arrange them on the roof and nail them into the walls and support beams. Once that's done, lay tar paper over all of it and staple that in.

To install the shingles, lay each section and use roofing nails to nail it into the Masonite and 2" x 3" studs. Do this until the entire roof is covered. If you're doing the back room, you may want to repeat this process on the back.

Step 6: Inside

The inside can be easily customized to your liking. Since everyone will want to put different things inside, I'll just share what we did.

To maximize air flow, we installed a vent in the bottom of the back wall. It can be bought at the Home Depot and easily installed by cutting a big enough rectangle in the wood and screwing it in.

We also installed a shelf under the side window. It can be made by cutting a 2' length of the 1" by 6" pine. Sand it down and screw it in.

For paint, we primed the walls with basic white paint, then went back over it with a light brown. We painted the rafters dark brown.

Afterwards, we furnished it to our liking, including a rug, some beanbags, and a fan.

Step 7: Final Touches

Lastly, you'll need to add trim to the door and window. We did this by cutting sections to fit around the door and window that are about 2" wide for the window and 3" for the door. Refer to measurements above when creating them.

To seal up any cracks, you'll want to add some caulking in them. Then, paint the trim the same color as the doors and windows. On the inside, you might want to use some spray foam to seal up the walls.

Then, your Hobbit House is done.

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    15 Comments

    0
    Peacetree19
    Peacetree19

    6 months ago

    Hi!! About how much did this project cost altogether? How much should we save up to get it done?

    0
    Oliver R
    Oliver R

    Reply 6 months ago

    I don’t quite remember, sorry. At least $100, but that might be a bit conservative.

    0
    Femvet87
    Femvet87

    7 months ago

    I am going to build this for the grands. I will put more support on the floor and insulation board in it. I will put a hammock in it, too. You did an outstanding job on this. I was drawing interior designs at your age and not buildings. Got into architecture and construction after the Army. Follow your dreams…you are good.

    0
    _willow_
    _willow_

    Question 10 months ago

    can you fit a bed inside

    0
    Oliver R
    Oliver R

    Answer 10 months ago

    You might have room for a twin mattress, but it would take up the whole room.

    0
    Marve48
    Marve48

    1 year ago

    Well done. I would love to see photos of what it looks like finished inside.

    0
    _willow_
    _willow_

    Reply 10 months ago

    same

    0
    Seaside101
    Seaside101

    Question 10 months ago on Step 7

    Hello,
    This Hobbit Hole is amazing! Is it suitable for cold, snowy/frosty winters?

    0
    Oliver R
    Oliver R

    Answer 10 months ago

    I’m not quite sure. It doesn’t snow where we live, but if you include some of the black covering in between the Masonite and shingles, it’s at least rain proof.

    0
    PiggyProductions
    PiggyProductions

    1 year ago

    I had so much fun building this with you!

    0
    jleatherberry
    jleatherberry

    1 year ago

    This is so awesome! It would make a great place for adults with a bit of height. Hope your kid/s love it!!

    0
    Wolfram-Maria
    Wolfram-Maria

    1 year ago

    Oh, my Gamdalf! This is done sooo nicely :-) … I can’t wait to see the littles eyes when ‘living’ this palazzo :-) … I will try to do next summer… so great!

    0
    Liam McM
    Liam McM

    1 year ago

    Experienced builder here, Looks really cute, but you really should beef up the floor a bit, at least a few 2×4's or pallets.