Honda Odyssey Rear Window Motor Repair

94,791

19

27

Introduction: Honda Odyssey Rear Window Motor Repair

Honda Odysseys are notorious for having problems with the rear window motors. Fortunately they are fairly easy to repair. The problem is not the motor itself, but the connector to the motor. In this instructable I will show step by step how to remove and repair the passenger side rear window motor of a 2002 Odyssey.

Note: Thanks to member "itworks" at http://www.odyclub.com forums for information about the connector problem.

Step 1:

The window motor is behind this panel. To remove it you must remove the weather stripping that seals against the window. You also must loosen the lower panel. There is a hook that is attached with a screw. Use a thin blade as shown to pop the cover so you can unscrew the screw. The panel and the lower panel are snapped into place with panel clips.

Step 2:

The motor is behind the black duct work. The duct work is held in place by a couple of expanding clips. These may be removed by first removing the plastic screw in the center. The clips may then be pulled out. It isn't necessary to completely remove the duct, but it can be fairly difficult just to get it clear of the motor.

Step 3:

Unplug the connector for the wiring harness. There is a small tab that must be depressed to release the plug (see the picture with my thumbnail pressing the tab).

Step 4:

Removing the motor at this point is straight forward. Be careful not to drop the bolts. It won't be fun to retreive them from behind the lower panel. The lever on the motor shaft will pop out of the fixture on the window if you twist it a bit.

Step 5:

Remove the motor from the bracket. From here on we will be working with just the motor assembly.

Step 6:

Remove the cover from the motor assembly to expose the motor. Take note of the position of the motor. In this photo you can see the seam of the foam covering on the motor. This is important when it comes to re-assembly. If you get this backwards the motor switch will work in reverse. (Guess how I know.)

Step 7:

Remove the connector from the motor. Inside the connector there are two metal tabs. Remove the tab that runs across the center of the connector. I found that grasping the tab on the opposite side of the connector with a pair of long nose pliers and pushing worked well.

Step 8:

The tab is made in two pieces with a mysterous black substance in between the two pieces. This is the culprit. Connecting an ohm meter on each leg of the tab results in an initial reading of 0 ohms which quickly rises to 20 ohms. My guess is that the increasing resistance is intended as a mechanism to protect the circuit when the motor stalls. In practice it reduces the current to the point where the motors cannot function.

My initial fix for this was to simply wrap some bare copper wire around the connector to reduce the resistance. But, not wanting to completely over-ride the safety function, I decided to see if I could make the black layer thinner to reduce the resistance. I found that by heating the tab while squeezing it in the center, the black substance would soften and sqeeze out of the gap. This resulted in a maximum resistance of about 0.5 ohm. It is necessary to trim the excess material before re-assembling the connector.

Re-assembling the motor etc, is the reverse of disassembly.

Put it all back together and enjoy the whir-whir of you newly functional rear windows.

Fix It Contest

Participated in the
Fix It Contest

1 Person Made This Project!

Recommendations

  • Plastic Contest

    Plastic Contest
  • The 1000th Contest

    The 1000th Contest
  • Battery Powered Contest

    Battery Powered Contest

27 Discussions

0
fischeswa
fischeswa

Question 5 months ago on Step 6

Do you glue the motor cover back on? Everything so far has gone according to plan but the motor cover doesn't snap back on, Is it just super glue? Big time beginner here, sorry.

0
notsoso
notsoso

Answer 4 months ago

I didn't need any glue. The bolts held everything together when I bolted it back to the plate. But maybe your Odyssey is different.

0
brian.cartier
brian.cartier

9 months ago

Great how-to! It worked well for me.

I went to the junkyard last week and pulled a couple of the motors. They worked about as bad as my current ones so I returned them and pulled another two. Those were lousy as well but I brought them home to work on.
Last night I found your instructable and tried it out. I overheated the first one and the shiny contacts detached similar to what happened to sticksnpicks. Oh well, I had another three motors to work with.
This morning I more carefully heated and squeezed the center of the contact. Voila!
It went from 12 ohms to 1 ohm.
I installed both motors and they work great now.
The hardest part of the job was reattaching the body panels.

Thanks!

0
KristaO
KristaO

1 year ago

Everything worked just like it was supposed to. One of our windows wouldn't open at all, so we couldn't get the window seal out before we began. We were able to get the panel off anyway, and then took the seal off once the window was operational. No problem.

The only thing he doesn't talk about is that when you open the motor housing, you're breaking the glue seal, so it doesn't really go back together and stay together. When you bolt it to the bracket, that would hold it together, but given it's location and how often we like to leave those windows open, we used a toothpick and ran a small line of caulk all the way around to seal it up well.

Great instructions! Thank you for saving us a bunch!

0
10mm
10mm

4 years ago

Good post, good pictures. fixed in short order. thanks you.

0
ilu1947
ilu1947

4 years ago

ilu1947

I'm happy to say I fix my rear window vent on my 2003 Odyssey with zero cost to me. I'm not a mechanic, 69 year old retired but I love to fix my own cars. I followed

the step by step instructions on this website, several times I went back and forth between the internet and my driveway where I'm doing the repair. I squeezed with a

vise grip the tab where the black stuff is sandwhich between the two metals. Then, I heated it with a blow torch probably 1 second or watch the black stuff oozes

out about half of it , then let it cool then slice it off with a sharp knife. I used the ohm\meter the; resistance its 3 ohms.

I 'd like to share this with everyone with the same problem. Don't rush buying the

motor unit (almost $100) try this first. All you need is a little patient and a little

bit of analyzing things.

Thank you very much to whoever posted this step by step

instructions (steps 1-8).

0
DerekS49
DerekS49

4 years ago

Saw this after repairing/modifying my drink tray and decided to give it a try. It worked perfectly. Saved over $100 in "new" motors for my windows. Now onto another project.

0
GeorgeR71
GeorgeR71

4 years ago

mark the motor and the little case so they line up the right way when you put them back together. You don't have to take off the arm but you have to loosen it and slide it down a little so that you have the slack to take the motor with the worm screw out. when you are heating the connection don't heat it too much and hold the two metal parts together while you heat it. if you don't one part might fall off but don't worry you can put them back together, hold them in place and heat it up again. I fixed both of my motors but gave up putting the interior panels back and took my car to my local auto body shop to put back together. (My wife has given them lots of business.) I saved at least $150.

0
awardblvr
awardblvr

4 years ago

Where can I find a part number for the bolt that goes through the wing window to attach it to the moving mounting plate. Mine is LOST. (2000 Odyssey)

0
Keesv8
Keesv8

4 years ago

Entering 2016 with two working side windows-thanks for the instructions!!

0
mtndew92
mtndew92

4 years ago

Awesome instructable! Worked perfectly on my 03 Odyssey!

0
JeanC26
JeanC26

5 years ago on Introduction

hi

just bought an used odyssey with this problem... fixed thanks to you!

thank you so much, should put a donnate button.

ps : i had an air pipe on passenger side on my EX model - access a bit more difficult

0
TyL1
TyL1

5 years ago on Introduction

sadly, when I put them back in the van, they did not work.

0
TyL1
TyL1

Reply 5 years ago on Introduction

For whatever reason, I tried it again this morning and now it worked. I did the mod to the driver side, in about 20 minutes start to finish and it worked! Thanks again!

0
TyL1
TyL1

5 years ago on Introduction

Awesome! Just saved 100 bucks on new motors. Works as described, just push the contact out through the other side of the connector. I used a small butane benzomatic torch to heat the sandwiched area, and after a couple of seconds the black material sqished out from light pressure from the needle-nose pliers, I repeated on both ends of the sandwich to get a uniform thickness and that was it. Scraped up the excess and retested the ohms. I have to note that the native resistance of the metal was 0.5ohms and across the whole contact it was 18.1. Once finished it was 1.3ohms, so I left a bit more material but what a sweet sound when that motor fired right up. Thanks a bunch for putting this mod up. i loves the internets.

0
Moosetales
Moosetales

5 years ago on Step 8

It worked like a charm. Thanks a ton for put the time and brain power into figuring this out and then for posting the instructions.

0
raymwiii
raymwiii

5 years ago on Introduction

Hey nice guide. Followed it exactly and everything works now. Thank you for taking the time to help everyone else with this issue.