How To: Make a Premium Aquarium Light at Home for Cheap!




Introduction: How To: Make a Premium Aquarium Light at Home for Cheap!

About: Just a Small Tinkerer ;)

Hello Everbody,

Specially for those who keep Aquariums.

Almost Every Aquarists Needs an Premium looking Light, Buy you could see that all Lights which look beautiful , have Very High Price.

First of all, i am Starting a Company Named Bubbles AquaLighting, which focus mainly on Building Premium Lights with a Low Price for Our Buyer. And this is One of out First Designs, which you would love.


For International & Domestic Orders: Contact -

(We can make Almost any Size for your Aquarium for Low Price)

About the Design:

This Design Focuses on Preventing Water Droplets which jump from water surface due to Filter's Bubbles.

( Very Small)....

and if your Aquarium Light is Very Close to an Aquarium then , it will be prone to that Droplets....

Reason: When the Droplets will reach the Terminals of the Leds, They will Start Oxidizing due the electricity

and will make some type of slimy substance over Terminals. It also Leads to Rust and Destroy your Whole Light.

Therefore, I Made a 3 Layer Design to Make this Light Waterproof from whole sides + It is Low in Height which helps in good Penetration of Light in Water.

Step 1: Get All the Materials

List of Materials Required.

1. Laser Cut Acrylic.

2. 2Pcs. Heavy Duty 10Watt HeatSinks

3. Silicone Transparent

5. 2Pcs. 10W Leds

6. DC Socket with Pre Attached Wir

7. And Lot's of NewsPapers

Step 2: Design Work...

Sorry Guys, as this was my Official Design, so i could not give the Design file.

But i will give you the measurements -

The Light was Made for a Perfect 1Foot x 1Foot Aquarium.

Therefore the 2 Plates are of 30cm x 10cm & make one border of the same size just 10mm Thick.

Top Plate = 3mm Black

Middle Border = 4mm Black

Bottom Border = 3mm Transparent

( Make holes according to your heatsinks.)

The Holder Structure were of as follows:

The Mouth of structure to hold , had an gap of 11mm

and the bottom mouth to grip the glass, had a gap of 6mm


All Designing was Done in FlexiSign Software.

Step 3: Joining Border

Now take the Top Plate + Bottom Plate & Apply Silicone to Them.

Step 4: Adding LEDS

Add The 10 Watt Leds Pre Attached to Heatsinks.

To Make the Leds Stick at one Place, Add One Drop Instant Adhesive at Heatsink and Stick it at Top.

After This Take a Small Peice of Wire and Solder the Leds in Parallel.

Step 5: Solder DC Socket

Now , Solder the DC Jack to Leds.

Remember the Positive and Negative because , Light cannot be opened again after Silicone is Applied.

Step 6: Fill Silicone & Close

Now Fill Silicone in the whole Gap which could have been left between the top and bottom acrylic.

By this Way The Light Become 100% Waterproof with no Worries of getting Spoiled.

Step 7: Atlast Add the Support Legs

Now Simply Slide the Support legs at sides of light and Make them Firm by Dropping One Drop Adhesive .

And It's Finished.

And We have made our own Premium Homemade Aquarium Light to Enhance the Beauty of Our Aquariums.

I Hope everybody Enjoyed,

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    7 years ago

    The lighting is great but i would like to point a few things which i noticed in a constructive manner

    1st silicone is not a good source of head sink.
    2nd using silicone lot of lumens are lost and the light source is dimmed. I see lots of bubble just over the light source

    3rd use a voltage regulator and increase or decrease the intensity.

    Ayush Sharma
    Ayush Sharma

    Reply 7 years ago

    Yes , You are Right in some points and i also learnt that the hardway.
    I got to know after building that the silicone will not let the led light focus.

    And in the matter of silicone Heatsink...
    The leds are directly Attached to heatsinks with compound.
    And in the matter of Regulator. I use a proper supply of 12v 24W.

    Ayush Sharma
    Ayush Sharma

    7 years ago

    I use an 12v 2Amp. Power Supply


    7 years ago

    What kind of power supply do you use?