Introduction: How to Build a 48” Bathroom Vanity
This instructable will show you how to build a really simple bathroom vanity that is 48” long, 21” deep and 35” tall. It should fit most standard 4 foot vanity tops which are 49” long and 22” wide.
If you get lost along the way, be sure to check out the video here:
Supplies
Materials list:
1x2" 8ft 4pcs
1x4" 8 ft 4pcs
1x6" 10ft 1pc
1x8" 6 ft 1pc
1x10”. 6ft 1pc
24" edge glued board 6ft 1pc
Hinge sets 3 sets
14" drawer slides 2 sets
15/32" (1/2 inch) plywood 1 sheet
1/4" plywood 1 sheet
1 1/4" pocket screws 50 pcs
Quick note: I built two vanities for $200. If you buy the 1/4" plywood, 1/2" plywood, 50 screws, and 6 foot of edge glued lumber, you will have enough of those to build two vanities. Double the recipe on everything else, and you can build two for way cheaper!
Step 1: Cut Your 1x2s for the Face of the Vanity
We need:
2pcs at 6”
2pcs at 21”
2pcs at 31.5”
3pcs at 45”
Step 2: Put 2 Pocket Holes in Both Sides of All of These
(Except the 31.5” pieces)
Step 3: Assemble the Face of the Cabinet
The 31” pieces will make the two sides.
Attach two of the 45” boards flush with the top and bottom of the 31.5” pieces.
Attach the third 45” piece 6” down from the bottom of the top 45” board.
Evenly space the two six inch boards between the top and middle board.
Evenly space the two 21” pieces between the middle and bottom 45” board.
These gaps should be 14” across to make them evenly spaced.
Step 4: Sand the Face of Your Vanity to Make It Look Like One Solid Piece
Step 5: Cut Out a Piece of 1/2” Plywood 20”wide X 46 3/4”long
This will be the bottom of the vanity.
If you want both sides of your vanity to be exposed, and you will be using 3/4” edge glued lumber on both sides, this piece needs to be 20”x46.5” instead.
If you want to use 1/2” plywood on the two sides instead, this piece should be 20”x47”
Step 6: Cut Out the Sides of Your Vanity
If you want one side of your vanity exposed and will be using 3/4” edge glued lumber on one side and 1/2” plywood on the other:
Cut one piece of 1/2” plywood to 20” wide x 35” long
And one piece of edge glued lumber at 20 1/4” wide and 35” long
If you want both sides exposed (with edge glued lumber) cut two of those out instead of the 1/2” plywood
If you want to use plywood on both sides, cut two pieces of 1/2” plywood out instead of the edge glued lumber.
If you do this, I am assuming both sides of your vanity will be covered by a wall. You will need to make your own adjustments to these measurements if you want to have plywood sides that will be exposed. (Otherwise you will see that backing of the vanity)
Step 7: Make a 1/4” Notch on the Back Side of the Edge Glued Lumber
Set the outside edge of your table saw blade 1/4” from the fence.
Make a 1/4” notch on the long back, inside edge of the edge glued lumber.
You don’t need to do this to the plywood
(unless you want your plywood exposed on both sides) once again, you’ll have to make your own adjustments if you want to do this.
Step 8: Cut a Notch on the Bottom Front Corner of Those Boards for the Kick Plate
On the 20”x35” plywood piece cut a rectangle out that is 4 1/4” wide and 3.5” tall
On the 20 1/4x35” edge glued lumber, cut out a square that is 3.5” wide and 3.5” tall.
Step 9: Cut Up Some 1x4s to Build the Base
We need:
4 at 15” long
1 at 46 3/4” long (back)
1 at 47 1/4” long (front)
If both sides are exposed with edge glued lumber:
4 at 15”
2 at 46.5”
If both sides are plywood:
4 at 15”
1 at 48” (front)
1 at 47” (back)
Step 10: Cut Out a Piece of 1/4” Plywood at 47.5” Long X 33” Wide
This will be the back of the vanity
Step 11: Assemble the Vanity
Attach the 47 1/4” 1x4 to the bottom inside edge of the edge glued lumber side. It should be flush with the 3.5” square we cut out earlier. Attach the other side to the front of that bottom rectangle on the plywood.
(If both sides are exposed, it will attach to the sides on both)
(If both sides are plywood, it will attach to the front on both)
Attach the 15” 1x4s to the left and right side on the inside and bottom of the vanity
Attach the other two 15” 1x4s evenly spaced in the middle
Attach the 46 3/4” board between the two sides on the back
Step 12: Attach the 46 3/4”x20” Piece of Plywood to the Bottom of the Vanity
Step 13: Attach the 1/4” Backing
Step 14: Attach the Face of the Vanity
Step 15: Cut Out the Rails and Stiles for the Cabinet Doors
Cut six 1x4s with an outside edge at 21.5.” These need to be angled at 45 degrees
Cut six 1x4s with an outside edge at 14.5.” These need to be angled at 45 degrees
Step 16: Cut a Rabbet on the Inside Edge of All These Boards
Set the outside edge of your table saw blade 1/4” from the fence and set the blade height to 7/8”
Send all the rails and stiles through the saw on their short narrow edge
Set the outside edge of your table saw blade 7/8” from the fence and set the blade height to 7/8”
Send all the rails and stiles through the saw laying flat on the short edge
Step 17: Cut Out Three Panels
Cut three 1x10s to 16 1/4”
This is optional, but I put a small 45 degree bevel on the back side of my panels using a table saw
Step 18: Assemble the Doors
Use wood glue and finishing nails to assemble these doors. I used an 18 ga brad nailer
Step 19: Install the Doors
Attach the hinges to the cabinet doors, and then mount them to the vanity.
I recommend these hinges (they are cheap and easy to use)
(This is an affiliate link. I make money if you use this, but it doesn’t cost you extra)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082NL7SD1/ref=a...
Step 20: It Four 1x2s at 20” Long
Mount these using finishing nails to the bottom inside edge of the two drawer openings.
Make sure these are square with the cabinet and attach to the back the same distance as from the front
Step 21: Build Two Drawers That Are 13” Wide by 14” Deep
I used 1x6s for the sides and 1/4” plywood to make the bottom.
If you need details on how to make these, check out this video:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mkaGkq0rpdE
Step 22: Install the Drawers
Step 23: Cut Three 1x8s to 14,5”
The will be our drawer faces
Step 24: Attach the Drawer Faces
Attach the left and right drawer faces using wood glue screws from the inside of the drawers
Attach the middle “fake” drawer face using finish nails and wood glue from the back
Step 25: Make 4 Small Braces to Gives Something for Your Vanity Top to Sit On
I used 1x2s cut at 45 degree angles
Step 26: Your Vanity Is Ready to Stain, Paint or Finish Anyway You Want
Here is the vanity top that I recommend:
(This is an affiliate link. I make money if you use this, but it doesn’t cost you extra)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FK5BDVY/ref=a...
9 Comments
2 years ago
At the current lumber prices, materials would cost a lot
Reply 2 months ago
Still much cheaper than buying one pre-made from a bigbox store that's stapled together with plastic corner braces and particle board.
Reply 2 years ago
That is true. Lumber is ridiculous right now
2 years ago
Well, I am editing this reply because I was really confused by the actual widths of the face pieces. At the large builder supplies stores the 1x2s are 3/4" x 1-3/4" and this design assumes 1x2s that are 1-1/2" wide.
I'm a car guy. Lumber confuses me. But I will lay this out in AutoCAD and and make all dimensional adjustments to match this Instructable, then I can rip too wide pieces on my table saw. Actually looking forward to getting started.
2 years ago on Step 27
Thank you for the instructions, this is brilliant work 👌👏❤️
Reply 2 years ago
You’re welcome!
Tip 2 years ago
Paint it with Ultra Scuff X (Benjamin Moore)- Choose a pearl finish. It'll look exactly like the paint used in Home Depot or Lowes and even using a brush, it will look like it's been sprayed on.
Reply 2 years ago
I’ll have to check that stuff out
Reply 2 years ago
Why not sand it and prime it, fill voids then sand and prime and sand between prime coats before applying the finish coats?
Also be sure to SEAL and paint the base as they may be sitting in a wet environment from time to time.