How to Change the Shell for Your Xbox 360 Controller

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Intro: How to Change the Shell for Your Xbox 360 Controller

Want something more exciting then your old dull matte black or white?
Cracked or damaged your old face-plate?
Then these instructions are for you! 

In these instructions you will learn how to change out the shell on an Xbox 360 wireless controller.

WARNING: The following instructions may void your Xbox 360 controller warranty!


STEP 1: Know Your Parts

For this project you will need the following items:
1) A current Xbox 360 controller
2) A new back plate
3) A new face plate
4) A new battery pack
5) A new "back" button
6) a new "start" button
7) A Torx T8 Security Screwdriver
Note: Can be purchased here
8) A precise Phillips headed screwdriver 
9) A cup to put your screws in
The following items are optional but can complete the look of your Xbox 360 Conroller


NOTE: The face and back plate, back and start buttons,and battery pack were bought as a package on  "http://madmodz.com". This site provides many options for new Xbox 360 shells but is not the only source. You can, if you desire, use any face or back plate to complete this project. The options are endless and it is up to YOU the user to decide how you want to customize the shell of your Xbox 360 controller.  

STEP 2: Preparing Your Controller

CAUTION: REMOVE THE BATTERIES BEFORE BEGINNING TO WORK ON YOUR CONTROLLER!

1) Flip your current controller on its back 

2) Remove the empty battery pack and place it somewhere safe


STEP 3: Remove the Screw Underneath the Battery Pack

The controller will have a scan-able label on the back where the battery pack once was. 

1) Puncture though this label using your Torx T8 Security Screwdriver.

CAUTION: DOING SO WILL IN ALL LIKELIHOOD VOID YOUR CONTROLLER'S WARRANTY

2) Remove this screw and place it in the cup you have designated for screw removal.

STEP 4: Remove the Remaining 6 Screws on the Back of the Controller

1) After removing the screw underneath your battery pack there will be six remaining screws, these must be removed.

2) Place each screw in your cup designated for screw removal (you will need them for a later step)

NOTE: Screws will in all likelihood be argumentative. Just keep working at it, use a firm grip and a good amount of downward force so the bit doesn't slip, and they should come out no problem. 

STEP 5: Remove the Back of the Shell

1) Carefully remove the back of the controller

Note: Some components inside will be prone to fall out. Be sure to prevent this from happening and keep the controller with the sticks, at least to some degree, facing in the downward position. (as shown in the picture)

STEP 6: Lay Out the Controller

1) Place the controller sticks down with the controller components facing upward

STEP 7: Remove the Vibrating Mechanisms

1) Carefully remove the vibrating mechanism in both the left and right hand grips
CAUTION: Do NOT disconnect the wires connecting the vibrating mechanism to micro-chip and associated components
2) Place them on top of the chip board as shown in the accompanying pictures.

STEP 8: Remove the Micro Chip and Associated Components

1) Ever so tenderly remove the micro chip and associated components (it's one big piece)

2) Place the micro chip and associated components to the side (you will need it for a later step)

3) There are components behind this piece that will now be loose. DO NOT flip over the controller

STEP 9: Remove Rubber Covers

1) Remove the rubber cover over the d-pad and a,b,x,y buttons (you will need them in a later step, place them in a safe place)

STEP 10: Remove the A,B,X, Y, "back", "start", and Xbox Power Buttons

1) Carefully remove the A,B,X, Y, "back", "start" and Xbox power buttons (place them somewhere safe, you'll need them for later)

STEP 11: Unscrew the Back of the D-Pad

1) Using your precise Phillips head screwdriver, remove the 2 screws on the back of the d-pad (you know the drill,  save these for a later step)

STEP 12: Remove the Top and Bottom of the D-Pad

1) The d-pad is two separate pieces that are joined by a snap fit plastic piece. Separate these pieces and place them aside. 

STEP 13: Remove the Bumper Panel

1) Remove the bumper panel and put it in a safe place for later

STEP 14: Remove the Controller's Endcap

1) Remove the controller's end-cap and place it aside for later

STEP 15: You Have Now Successfully Taken Apart Your Controller

1) Take a step back and look at all the pieces you have.

2) Replace old pieces with the new shell and it's associated components.

3) Make sure you have all your screws. 

STEP 16: Place A,B,X,Y, "back", "start", and Xbox Power Buttons in the New Shell

1) Place the A,B,X, and Y buttons in the front panel of the new shell 

NOTE: with the front of the "front panel" facing down the Y (yellow) is on the top, X (blue) is on the right, B (red) is on the left, and A (green) is on the bottom.

2) place the "back" and "start" buttons in the front panel of the new shell

NOTE: with the front of the "front panel" facing down the "back" button will be on the right and the "start" button will be on the left

3) Place the Xbox power button in it's housing in the new shell

STEP 17: Re-Install the D-Pad

1) Snap the two pieces of the d-pad together

NOTE: The side with what looks like a plus symbol should be facing down as it was when you took it apart

2) Use the two shiny silver screws which originally held the d-pad together and place them in the appropriate holes.

3) Screw them in using your precise Phillips head screwdriver. 

STEP 18: Re-Install Rubber Covers, Top Bumper, and Controller End-cap

1) Re-install the rubber covers previously removed over the d-pad and a,b,x,y, start,back, and Xbox power buttons. 

2) Place the Top bumper piece into its housing on the upper portion of the controller

3) Place the end-cap into its housing on the lower portion of the controller 

4) The controller should look like the picture included when these steps are completed.

STEP 19: Replace the Micro-chip and Associated Components

1) Place the micro-chip and associated components into the new face-plate. The joy-sticks on the micro-chip should be facing down and should fit through the holes on the face-plate. 

STEP 20: Place the Vibrating Mechanisms Into There New Housing

1) Place both the left and right vibrating mechanisms into the new housing on their respective sides of the controller. 

STEP 21: Place the Back of the New Shell in Place

1) Place the back of the new shell on top of the components

NOTE: make sure components line up before placing the new back-plate on

CAUTION: Be sure as to not flip the controller over in this process as pieces will fall everywhere and you will become very frustrated!

STEP 22: Place Screws in Appropriate Holes

1) Using your small hex head screw driver, drive the 7 screws remaining in their appropriate holes 

NOTE: There is one screw hole behind the battery pack, 3 on the left side of the controller, and 3 on the right

CAUTION: Make sure screws are in tight as you don't want the controller coming apart as you game!

STEP 23: Enjoy Your Seemingly New (and Way Cooler) Controller!

18 Comments

If I hydro dip the shell would the steps of the taking apart still be the same?

I am waiting for my new green chrome shell to come in, then I am going to use these steps to take apart my old controller and put together my new one.

Bought these and followed directions to swap the case of the controller. Now both controllers randomly disconnect from the console and do not work like they did before.

I just did this, and have the same issues! Two of the controllers are brand new, so I know it's not the controller or the batteries. Ever find a resolution to this? Is the sync button too long, needs to be shaved down?
it was probably because you didnt line up the springs for the batteries right or the battery pack doesnt work
i had the same problem with an original controller and put a new battery pack and case on it now it works fin

exactly the same issue, so weird. It seems to sync fine very close to the wireless adapter sitting on the PC, but for some reason if i step away from the receiver it disconnects.

Have since reassembled original black and white controllers, they have no sync issues at all, is it the sync button on the new shells? why is the distance from the adapter's receiver an issue?

I want to try a tri-force!!
If I took it all apart and spray painted the front and back plates, would the paint be too thick?

I know it is VERY delayed, but it depends on how thick you make the paint, a single cover is fine, but from then on it gets sketchy.

I have a xbox 360 controller for windows (Wireless).

Is the shell and electronics the same?

Is it just the drivers that make it function on windows?

Thanks, I'm putting together a gold controller and this guide will be very useful when all the parts arrive. I'm also gonna deck it out with these rainbow LED's I bought.
Good Instructable,but that's a PCB, not a microchip.
Here is the screwdriver I used for the screws on the back. It has an indent in the head of the bit so the pin in the head of the screw is not a problem.

http://www.madmodz.com/T8-Torx-Security-Screwdriver/productinfo/9003