How to Fix Fried Arduino Nano/Uno/Mega

While I was working on a project which includes an arduino I accidentally shorted it and now its dead. But it can be fixed really easily, So lets get started !

In this post I am fixing the Arduino nano if you have fried Uno or mega skip to step 7, but do read all steps once.

Step 1: Watch the Video

If you get bored of reading stuff you can watch my videos on YouTube ! Click Here

Step 2: Analyzing the Problem !

There are two ways in which you can burn your arduino

1) USB

2) External Vin pin

Step 3: USB

If you were using USB to power your arduino when it died if you flip it around you will see a black component, which is a diode and if u look closely it has a small bulge area or a spot swelled indicating it is dead which is the case for me so replacing it will fix the arduino, but before fixing it lets look at the other way you might have shorted it.

Step 4: Vin Pin

If you were using Vin pin when it died then if you flip it around you will see a small bulge area on this which is a voltage regulator replacing this will fix your issue, but in my case it works via Vin pin but not USB so I need to replace the diode so let's do it

Step 5: Components & Tools!

1) Soldering Iron

https://www.gearbest.com/soldering-supplies/pp_279...

2)SMD MBR0520Tp Schottky Diode

3)AMS1117 5V

Step 6: Soldering !

I don't have SMD Schottky Diode at the movement so I will be using general purpose short key diode.

And its time for the Soldering

I have turned the legs of diode for my convenience.

and Its done !

Step 7: For Uno and Mega

Similarly if you have shorted your Arduino Uno or Mega, You need to replace 500mA Fuse(Shown in pic 2) or Voltage regulator(Shown in pic 3) which is same as nano

It will fix the issue !

Step 8: Thank You !

If you like my work

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Comments

[dpeach]

I recently fixed an Arduino Mega because of a blown voltage regulator (a few months ago). Thanks for putting up such a clear Instructable and video for others who may find themselves in the same situation. I hate seeing good stuff thrown away because people don't take the time to figure out what might be wrong.

Great job.

[tracybueller]

Sooooo much stuff just up and goes to the dump... Its sad. Hell, I curb scored a 44" flat screen because some yobbo got into it to fix a row of stuck pixles and lost the ribbon socket clip. I looked in the bottom vent and it was right there. Popped the casing open, fixed the clip, slapped some sense into the line drivers, and BAM! $300 tv that would have otherwise ended up in the landfill! Well, plus $16 for a 14v power supply, still up on the deal though lol. Even if I cant fix something, ill usually strip the boards so at least I have a back stock of components. I haven't had to order parts in a while thanks to all the random bits I have accumulated.... somewhat to my partners chagrin. Of course, after a few instances of something crapping out, me opening it up, and resoldering a wire, or replacing a capacitor or button, taking the time to give it a cleaning so it looked factory fresh, my junk pile has endeared itself some to them ;)

[jjf_kira]

Hi, can I ask what to replace on my arduino mega because I think I kind of shorted it.

The situation before the short:
I was connecting my Electronic Speed Controller on my Arduino and the arduino is connected to the laptop as the same time. Suddenly I think a current surge occur and made my laptop shut down with a text on the screen saying current spike on one of the usb port. My laptop was fine, it did restart perfectly after the current spike.
My Arduino Mega on the other hand, it can be detected on the device manager with its assigned COM Port number but I cannot upload to it.
So when I upload to the said arduino unit, the RX & TX led do not blink. The IDE will stay on uploading status and will never upload on my arduino.

Alternative way of uploading I have done:
Upload sketch using another arduino that I know works via ICSP.
In this method, my Arduino Mega can take any upload.

Other fix I have done:
I tried burning a bootloader on the ATMEGA2560 but still I cannot upload through USB.
I tried using my Arduino UNO to burn bootloader to Arduino Mega via Arduino IDE.

What I haven't done yet:
Burning bootloader on the ATMEGA16u2 USB Chip.
-I don't think I am having problem in the usb chip because it can still be detected.

What component should I replace in this case?

[tracybueller]

Sounds like the usb to serial chip bit the dust, since you say it can still be programmed via the ICSP port. And considering the USB host side (laptop) still sees a chip it can communicate with (the laptop assigns a COM port and the arduino IDE attempts to upload) I would venture a guess that the serial side of the USB to serial IC took a nose dive for some reason. If you're using a socketed MCU board, you could try popping it out and bending the serial RX and TX legs out so they dont engage the socket, then plug it back in just enough to interface with the board (mainly for power and oscillator), and connect something else, like a space arduino or usb to serial cable to the RX/TX pins of the IC to see if the MCUs serial is still alive. If its not socketed, and you really felt like exploring, you could do some surgery on the traces to connect to the pins of an SMD IC.

I forget how, but I fried the USB to serial IC on my original UNO board. Whenever it was plugged in, it got worryingly hot. I know what humans think is hot and what silicone thinks is hot are two completely different kinds of hot, but a simple cereal conversion chip definitely should not get that hot. So if yours is getting hot, I'm guessing it's fried. If you have the tools to replace it just lift the chip off and put a replacement on there. Otherwise just live with not having a USB to serial capability anymore. However if it is fried probably lift the chip anyways, or at least cut the traces, power and data. Best not to keep misbehaving chips on the bus.

Also, ALWAYS connect ground first! Trusting your IO to be on the same ground plane is rolling the dice.

[MarcosR15]

Very good article!
Could you tell me the number of the diode you used? Thanks.

[Adlane hichemb]

Thank you for this article!, can you please tell me if I can use the nano safely without the diode, i'm missing a soldering iron atm, i programed it with another nano of mine, it looks fine but i'm not sure! Thanks again!

[PhilippeC38]

This Schottky rectifier is rated at 0.5A 20V, it is here to protect against an excessive current. I am afraid that if you replace it with a general purpose diode, next time you short your Arduino, you may damage your computer's usb power supply.

[NeilRG]

Assuming you did not photoshop the smoke rising from your board, the idea that you intentionally smoked one of your own boards demonstrates the confidence you have in the methods you presented.
Very good job!

[Arbormakes]

What a neat trick!

[marvage]

This is excellent. Thanks a bunch! I fried the diode by accidentally putting 14volts through the Vin. I was able to do a quick fix by replacing the surface mount with a through-hole as you showed. Literally I was back to work in 30 minutes and "I learned something today." :D I'll try not to fry more boards down the road. But if I do I'll be able to fix them.

[conundrum2142]

Has anyone run into bad crystals on the Uno? Seems to be more common on "cheap" units, I had it happen before but evidently the real cause might have been a dodgy USB-serial chip. Alas its hard to change those, it can be done with a rework station but its a complete horse. Symptoms: TX/RX lights not working, yet everything else does and if you swap socketed chip into working unit all is then well, it will run code fine just not update.

[Nematic!]

I never had such issue with cheap units

[Raphango]

Good to know! =D

[banman11]

Very clear instructable, thanks for sharing the information...

[JohnK241]

Ace! Thanks.

[pgs070947]

Isn't the fuse on the Uno at least, resettable?

Datasheet gives it as good to 100-A, trip at 1-A typical. Normally, just letting it cool is enough.

In my experience, the diode is the most likely component to burn out. Beware confusing Vin and 5-V out if connecting a supply other than though the 2.1-mm socket

[jfryar30272]

Some Uno's (or other Arduino's, for that matter) have a type of fuse called a PPTC fuse. It is just a resistor, that, when it heats up, increases resistance exponentially. As it cools, the resistance lowers. So, technically, when the PPTC "fuse" trips, there is actually a small current passing through.

It just depends on the manufacturer whether they put that type of fuse on or not.

[pgs070947]

Yes, you're right. The spec is hold at 500-mA, but as Bourns describe as "trip" at 1000-mA. The point is there is no need to replace unless you whack 100-A through the Uno. It's probably a bit more sophisticated than a PTC resistor, with a defined "knee". A cursory look at the schematic suggests that it only protects the USB supply, by which time you've probably crashed the PC.

[hinkey]

Thank you for this post. A quick easy fix for diode replacement on Nano - Thank you.

[Dram229]

Nice Video. Seems like a fairly easy fix and cheaper than replacing a board. Thakns.