Hand Built Full Range Portable Bluetooth Speaker




Introduction: Hand Built Full Range Portable Bluetooth Speaker

About: student at SRM university , Btech mechatronics Loves finding out how things work and trying it myself . Loves anything that's a combination of electronics and mechanical .

Hii everyone , In this instructable I will be showing you guys how to make a powerful full range portable bluetooth speaker from scratch. The reason why I built this is I hate using earphones all the time and I dont like the isolation it provides. I always wanted a portable speaker system which I could take to get togethers and parties .It also serves as an awesome entertainment system for your worktable. The reason why I decided to hand build one is because building things is my hobby and the other thing is there was no way I was gonna convince my dad to buy me one ;-). Building It yourself also gives you the freedom to implement your own ideas,designs and modifications.

This portable speaker consist of 6 speakers , two 2 inch 3 watt woofers, two 2 inch 10 watt fullrange speakers and two 1 inch tweeters.The top panel is made up of clear acrylic sheet basically to make it look cooler.The Transparent panel allows you to see the vu meter LEDs and the internal wiring and circuitery. An other advantage is that you dont have to drill extra holes to see the lights on the charging modules and other circuits

The speaker system has dual passive radiators to give it that deep long bass .The audio receiver board used supports bluetooth , usb and SD so it widens connectivity.It has a 10000 mah battery so that you can enjoy hours and hours of music in a single charge.The box is hand built using 5mm plywood,multiwood and mdf which I found in the basement.

Step 1: SPECS:-

1. 3 watts per channel X 4 channels

2. 6 speakers including tweeters (full range)

3. 10000 mah battery (12 hours)

4. USB , Bluetooth, aux and SD support

5. Button feature

6. Micro usb charging

7. Dual passive radiators

8. VU meter

9. Transparent top panel

10. Designed for Wider hearing angle

Step 2: Sound Test

This is just a simple sound test which was shot using a smart phone, so the sound in the video might be a bit poorer than how it actually sounds , I didn't have access to any professional cameras so ended up using my phone camera.

Step 3: Things You Will Need:-

1. 2 inch Full range Speakers X 2


2. 2 inch mini woofers X 2


3. A pair of tweeters


4. Passive radiator pair 40mm X 70mm


5. 3.7 volt lithium polymer battery 5000 mah X 2 (18650 lithium ion batteries can also be used)



6. Battery charging module TP4056 X1


7. DC to DC step up module X 2


8. striped board

9. 1000 micro farad capacitor X 2

10. 4700 micro farad capacitor X 1

11. 5 volt amplifier PAM8403 X 2


12. 5 volt VU meter(optional)

13. Audio receiver board with bluetooth, usb and sd support


14. DC switches x 2

15. 5mm plywood sheet

16. 5mm clear acrylic sheet

17. 5mm multiwood sheet

18. 3mm female audio socket

19. Screws glue and other fittings

Step 4: Tools Needed:-

1. Screw driver

2. Soldering iron

3. Jig saw

4. sand paper

5. File

6. Drill ( hole cutting bits for the speaker holes, small disc cutting bit)

7. Hot glue gun

8. Scissors

9. Fevibond glue

Step 5: Making the Front Panel

1. The full range speakers and one of the passive radiators is aligned on the 5mm multiwood to get a rough dimension of the front panel.

2. The final dimensions which was measured as 19 X 6 cm is drawn on to the sheet using pencil and set squares

3. The rectangular piece is cut out using a jig saw.

4. The center of holes to be cut is found by intersecting diagonals.

5. Two 52mm holes and two 32mm holes are cut using the respective wood hole cutting bits.

6. The excess wood in between the 32mm holes is cut out using disc cutting bit .

7, The piece is filed and sanded to perfection.

Step 6: Making the Bottom Panel:-

1. Two parallel lines are drawn 8cm apart.

2. Mark two points 19 cm apart( length of front panel)

3. Two lines of 45 degrees are drawn from the two points towards the other parallel line.

4. The final shape is cut out using the jig saw.

Step 7: Making the Side Panels:-

1. A rectangular piece of 10.5 X 6 cm is cut out using the jig saw.

2. The midpoint is found out by intersecting diagonals.

3. 3" holes are cut out from the middle.

4. Both the sides of the panel is sanded to roughly 45 degrees.

Step 8: Attaching the Panels Together:-

1. The panels are first aligned then marked with a pencil the positions for screws.

2. Small holes are drilled at the marked positions 2.5 mm from the edges on the bottom panel.

3. Similarly , holes are drilled carefully on the side and front panels on the edges as shown in the pic.(These holes are drilled to prevent the thin plywood from cracking when the screws are tightened)

4. Glue like fevibond is applied on both the bonding sides and the panels are screwed into place.

Step 9: Making the Joints Airtight:-

Hot glue is used to make all the joints airtight.

Step 10: Attaching the Speakers and Passive Radiators:-

1. Glue is applied on both the bonding surfaces.

2. The passive radiator and the speakers are pressed into their corresponding holes.

3. The joints are made airtight using hot glue.

Step 11: THE CIRCUIT:-

Step 12: Making the Circuit:-

1. The output voltage from the DC stepup is set to about 5.3 volt by turning the potmeter.

2. A 1000 uf capacitor is soldered to the output terminals of the stepup.

3. The 3.7 volt batteries are connected in parellel.(18650 batteries can also be used connected in parallel)

4. The other modules and the battery are glued to the bottom panel.

5. The charging module is glued such that the female micro usb socket aligns with the bottom back edge as shown in the pic.( Use the new version of TP4056 which has discharge protection too)

6. The 4700 uf capacitor is soldered parallel to the battery.

7. All the connections are made as shown in the circuit diagram.

Step 13: Making the Back Panel:-

1. A piece of 5mm plywood is cut out according to the back dimensions, in my case it was 34 X 6 cm

2. The opening for the charging module is made carefully using a wood file.

3. The opening for the second passive radiator is drawn and cut out as explained in the front panel making step.

4. Both the shorter edges are filed from the inside until it fits perfectly with the side panels.

Step 14: Acrylic Top Panel:-

1. The acrylic sheet is cut using a jig saw according to the top dimensions

2. Holes for the audio receiver board case and the tweeters are cut at the right positions.

3. Holes for the switches are cut by first drawing the shape of the hole using a pencil and then drilling holes very close to each other along that line using the smallest drill bit.Then the tiny joints in between the holes are cut using a heated knife.The piece in the middle is taken out and the edges are made flat using a small triangular file.

4. The hole for the aux pin is drilled. The hole is kind of countersinked using a big wood bit because the latching bolt of the aux pin was not long enough to reach the other side of the 5 mm acrylic sheet.

5. The tweeter , switches and the aux pin is fixed to the panel and made airtight using hot glue.

Step 15: Attaching the Back Panel to the Base:-

1. Just like the front and side panels, the back panel is also attached by first drilling small aligned holes on the bottom and back panel , then its glued and screwed.

2. Before permanently attaching the back panel , Small blocks of wood with drilled holes is glued to it for finally attaching the acrylic top panel.

3. All the joints are made airtight using hot glue.

Step 16: Making Holes on the Acrylic Sheet for the Screws:-

1. The top panel is Kept in place.

2. The position of the holes to be drilled is marked.

3. The holes are drilled.

4. The drilled holes are countersinked using a bigger bit so that the screw heads wont protrude out.

Step 17: Adding Padding and Attaching the Acrylic Panel:-

1. Here I used a foam based double sided tape as the airtight padding.

2. The double sided tape is cut and applied on the edges as shown in the picture( without removing the nonadhesive layer which exposes the second sticky layer)

3. The connection to the tweeters and switches are soldered.The wires to the audio receiver board is pulled out through the opening in its case

4. The top transparent panel is finally screwed to the rest of the body after peeling off all the brown protective covering.

5. The excess foam tape from the sides is cut carefully and neatly using a razor blade.

Step 18: Connecting the Audio Receiver Board:-

1. A male micro usb pin is soldered to the power wires coming from the inside .

2. A 3mm male audio pin is soldered to the audio input wires coming from the inside.

3. Both the pins are inserted to the audio board and the setup is tested.

4. Once its working perfectly, the board is bolted into place inside its case and the case is closed using its own acrylic panel

5. All the holes are made airtight using hot glue.

Step 19: Smoothening the Edges and Adding the Bushes

1. All the corners and edges are sanded to perfection by hand using a sand paper or a sanding block

2. Rubber bushes are added to the bottom of the speaker as the speaker sounds better raised a few mm from the ground .It can be screwed on or glued to the bottom

Step 20: FINISHING and Additional Modifications:

Speaker grills can be added for additional protection of the speakers.Since the speakers are only 2 inches , 2 inch tweeter grills does a perfect job.

You can add cosmetic changes by painting , stickering or using vineers sheets to give it that finish and look you wanted .This step is optional ,if you guys are using vinerred plywood or mdf with the design you like , then no modifications is needed.

I have also added an other sound test video :)

And there you have it , a powerful 6 speaker full range portable speaker

If you guys have any doubts or queries , do post it in the comments below, I promise to reply to each and every comment

Thank you :-)

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    2 years ago

    Great project. The Audio receiver board with bluetooth, usb and sd support link is not available anymore. Please advise details of the audio receiver board used.


    2 years ago

    its a very nice looking and nice sounding box however for my needs I will have to use 12 inch woofers or 6x9 three way, with about 100 watts of power per channel for rock and roll.


    3 years ago

    hello! nice project, it's awesome. I'm planning on making one just like yours! but i dont know what batery to use, the 18650 are the best choice? and if I can change the woofer for Sub woofer, or if i could add it, I would appreciate your help, greetings from Chile! thanks!

    the sub woofer its https://goo.gl/Jat2ko

    (sorry my bad english)


    4 years ago

    Nice project Patrick, this tutorial was really helpful. I'm planning on making one of my own using the same bluetooth audio board. Where did you wire the auxilary input? Was it wired to the mic input part of the board?

    patrick panikulam
    patrick panikulam

    Reply 4 years ago


    I used the 3.5 mm audio female Jack from the link above .
    This jack is connected parallely to the output wires from the audio decoder board which goes into the amplifier inputs . This female Jack is designed in such a way that it cuts off the connection between the audio decoder and amplifier and creates a new connection between the aux cable and amplifier when ever an auxiliary cable is plugged into the female Jack


    Reply 4 years ago

    Thanks for the reply. I will make sure to do the same when I wire mine up.


    4 years ago

    Coming from someone who has been in the A/V industry my entire life, I would first like to congratulate you on your will and desire to make this and you did very well for a first time out.

    On your next one, instead of hot glue, use Tite-Bond III glue as it bonds everything better, and, if you wait long enough, you wouldnt even need screws after the tite-bond III hardened. Also, very good using the passive radiators. That actually helps more than most people know.

    Also, on the next one, if you want to clean it up a bit and make one that looks store bought, use a router to round off the sharp corners on the wood and plexiglass and use some acoustical pass through fabric to cover the front of the speakers. :)

    I really enjoyed reading about your project and hope to see your future endeavors. Very good job!


    Reply 4 years ago

    Good ideas there! I'm planing to build a speaker box involving a plexi cylinder (Dia 280mm x H 300mm) 6,5" driver in one end and a passive radiator on the other. The driver (KEF) 48Hz 104dB. Any ideas on that? Thickness on plexi baffle/tube?

    It's part of a larger unusual shaped speaker..

    patrick panikulam
    patrick panikulam

    Reply 4 years ago

    I don't have much experience with plexy glass cylinder , but once I made a speaker using pringles can with 3" drivers on both sides , but I faced a problem !, As the can was too thin , it resonated with the speakers reducing the overall sound quality of the system. So I would prefer a thick plexy glass tube which will stay rigid and not resonate with the speakers, I am not sure but i think it's thickness should be more than 6 mm


    Reply 4 years ago

    Thank U for replying. I am going to make the project with a cylinder thickness thats 20-23mm (!) Diam. 240 mm Length 300 mm. Driver will be KEF Q300. At the other end of the tube Im going to place a passive 8" radiator. It's gonna be interesting to hear that mad mad science stuff...

    patrick panikulam
    patrick panikulam

    Reply 4 years ago

    Thanks :-)
    I used fevibond glue before screwing it on , the hot glue is used just to make sure the joints are airtight
    I will surely use tite bond on my next wood based project :-) :-)


    4 years ago

    Awesome work thank you for this tutorial:)


    4 years ago

    Thanks for the build! Very inspiring. Is there a reason you chose not to isolate the full range speakers from the woofers? Wouldn't it have been better to have the woofers isolated with the passive radiators as not to interfere with the ful range speakers? I plan to try this build but will be installing the woofers on the ends and the radiators in the back. I'll also isolate the ful range from the woofers.

    patrick panikulam
    patrick panikulam

    Reply 4 years ago

    This is the design i made before the built,

    patrick panikulam
    patrick panikulam

    Reply 4 years ago

    What you said was exactly my plan , the passive radiator on the back was intended just for the woofers but once I started the built and tested the circuit I figured out that I needed one more battery in parallel to give sufficient current and it took up a lot of space inside.It was impossible to line up all the components inside to add a partition because of limited space and wide batteries


    4 years ago

    Cool project, just ordered most of the parts for it now! How did you decide on the zise of the capacitors? And why are there 2 switches?

    patrick panikulam
    patrick panikulam

    Reply 4 years ago

    Thanks :)
    I used two 16 volt 1000uf capacitor for each dc to dc stepup module outputs and one 4700uf capacitor parallel to the battery, the size usually doesn't matter much but the voltage should be above 6 Volt
    I added the second switch as a power saving feature , it can be used to deactivate one of the amplifiers,. The speaker still sounds amazing just with full range speakers and tweeters when the speakers on the sides are switched off .
    If you are planning to build one , I would recommend you use high quality 18650 batteries in parallel which has higer current handling capabilities

    Antzy Carmasaic
    Antzy Carmasaic

    4 years ago

    Nice design. I like the transparent top where the internal circuitry is visible.

    One word of caution though: do not use LiPo/LiIon batteries in parallel or series. That's dangerous as it requires cell balancing which can be done by manufacturer only in most cases. Just buy a higher capacity battery.

    patrick panikulam
    patrick panikulam

    Reply 4 years ago

    Thanks :)
    I tried it with single high mah battery first , but it didn't have the sufficient current eventhough it had a huge capacity( maybe because of the internal resistance) . But it's working perfectly once I used two smaller batteries in parallel.
    Both the batteries have their own built in charge, discharge and current protection circuit which I think will protect the batteries to an extent.
    Can you suggest me any alternatives for parallel battery protection?