Introduction: How to Make Fitted Hat
Step by step instructions plus pro TIPS! With video tutorial incase you get stuck along the way.
Step 1: Step 1: Video Instructions
Here is the video. Feel free to check it out if you get stuck.
Step 2: Supplies List
Here is a list of supplies we highly recommend. (TIP: Using the right grade supplies will drastically improve the quality of your fitted cap.)
-LINK to Pattern: https://www.properfitclothing.com/pro...
-LINK to BRIMS: http://capsupplyco.com/index.php?rout...
-LINK to Sewing machine Singer 4423 https://goo.gl/33eHF8
-LINK to Polyester/Cotton Twill Fabric By The Yard Here: https://goo.gl/33eHF8
-LINK to Bias tape folder attachment: https://goo.gl/33eHF8
-LINK to Bias Tape: https://goo.gl/33eHF8
-LINK to Grommet press + Eyelets: https://goo.gl/33eHF8
Step 3: Cutting Pattern
-The pattern can be adjusted for any size.
-Measure the circumference of your head.
-Us the size chart to determine the size that works for you.
-Adjust the pattern and cut.
(TIP: Use measuring tape. Wrap around your head above your eye brows and ears. This will give you the most accurate measurement.)
(TIP: Use the ruler at the bottom of the panels to help decrease or extend pattern.)
(TIP: Take into account seam allowance. The pattern calls for .25 inches.)
(TIP: Print the pattern out a few times. Sew it together roughly and see if it fits. The best way to make it perfect is trial and error. Once you find a fit. Record that information for caps!)
Step 4: Trace and Cut
-Trace the 3 panels onto the fabric.
-Cut out. You should end up with 2 front, 2 side, and 2 back panels.
(TIP: Be sure to mark the panels F,S, and B. This helps with mixing the panels up.)
(TIP: Also it is a good idea to make the sides of the panels. This will let you know what panels need to be sewn together. This is shown in 4th picture. )
(TIP: We highly recommend marking the panels. If you sew the wrong panels together then the cap will turn out misshaped.)
Step 5: Adding Interfacing
-Place the wrong side of the front panel down on the adhesive side.
-Only apply the interfacing to the front two panels.
-Use iron to apply the interfacing.
-Cut off remaining interfacing around the panel.
(TIP: Use a sheet of paper to help iron on the interfacing. This will keep your iron and work station clean.)
(TIP: We are using a heavy weight interfacing designed specifically for cap making. This interfacing helps keep the front panels structured. Use the heaviest weight interfacing for most professional results.)
Step 6: Front Half of Crown
-Place the right sides of the front panels together.
(TIP: Use the marks you made to determine what side to sew.)
-Sew along the front edge with .25 inch seam allowance.
-Trim the seam allowance.
(TIP: Trimming the seam allowance helps when adding on the bias tape in the up and coming steps.)
-Take one side panel.
-Place the right side of the side panel and the right side of the front panel together. Sew.
-Trim off the seam allowance.
(TIP: Sew from the top of the panel towards the bottom. This will help keep the center of the crown uniform.)
-Keep in mind you are ONLY sewing the FRONT 2 and ONE side panel together. Making up half of the top crown. DO NOT sew on the back panels yet!
Step 7: Back Half of Crown
-Take the back two panels. Place the right sides together and sew along the edge.
(TIP: This is the same process as the previous step. Instead of sewing the front panels. You are sewing the back panels.)
-Take the remaining side panel. Place the right side to the right side of the back panel and sew.
(TIP: Make sure you are sewing this side panel to the opposite side of the front side panel. So when you out them together you will have side panels only touching the front and back panels.)
Step 8: Setting Up Bias Tape
-Place the twin needle into the domestic machine.
-Switch machine to zigzag stitch with 0 width.
-Add folder on to the machine. We used tape because our folder is designed for a industrial sewing machine.
-We show two different folders. They both make the same fold and will have to be taped onto a domestic machine. The yellow one is linked in the list of supplies and the industrial one is available at capsupplyco.com
-Thread the machine with two spools of thread and you are good to go! Thread both spools on the same exact path.
(TIP: Use the same color thread as the fabric. This is will help cover up imperfections.)
(TIP: It is easy to cut your own bias tape. Determine the required width of the folder you are using. Place fabric on place surface and cut diagonally to the fold.)
(TIP: Use a rotary blade and mat for best results.)
Step 9: Top Stitch Front Half of Crown
-With the folder into position and the bias tape cut.
-Feed the bias tape trough the folder.
-Take front half of crown and feed the two seam through the folder. One seam at a time.
(TIP: Cut the bias tape long enough to cover both seams. This will save to time in the long run.)
(TIP: Using this method will cover up the inside raw edge and leave a professional twin top stitch on the outside.)
Step 10: Top Stitch Back Half of Crown
-This is the same process as the previous step. Just repeat what you did for the back half.
(TIP: The reason for splitting up the crown into two sections is to eliminate the bulk at the top. If the bias tape crossed over to many times then it would be impossible to install the cover button. This process allows for minimal fabric crossing.)
Step 11: Sew Crown Together
-Place the right sides of the crown together.
-Line up and sew all the way across.
-Trim the allowance.
(TIP: Keep a hold on the center while sewing. This will help keep the panels aligned and meet in the middle.)
(TIP: Be sure to trim the extra fabric in the center. This is the area where you install the cover button. You will want minimal fabric in this area.)
Step 12: Adding Bias Tape to Center Seam
-Just like in the previous bias tape step.
-Place the seam in the center of the twin needles and begin to sew.
(TIP: Add enough bias tape to cover entire seam in once go.)
(TIP: Getting the crown stage down may take a few attempts. Do not get discouraged. Practice makes perfect!)
Step 13: Adding Size Strip
-Take the size strip and sew it on the inside of the crown along the bottom.
-Sew directly in the center of the size strip.
(TIP: The size strip helps give support and structure to the bottom edge. It is key component for making a quality cap.)
(TIP: If you are on a budget. Use heavy weight paper. I recommend not skipping this step.)
Step 14: Making Brim Sleeve
-Place the brim you are using onto the fabric.
-Trace the front curve.
(TIP: Trace past the end of the brim. This will give you extra room to work the brim into position.)
-Stitch directly on the trace line.
(TIP: The closer to the inside you stitch, the tighter the fabric will set on the brim.)
-Cut about .25 inches from the seam around the outside edge.
(TIP: Leaving .25 inches will help the brim set on one side of the sleeve. This will make the front edge of the brim seam look straight.)
-Flip sleeve right side out and insert the brim.
(TIP: Slide the brim on one half of he seam allowance. The seam allowance will act as a guide.)
Step 15: Locking Brim Into Position
-Make sure the brim is in the sleeve nice and snug.
-Stitch along the back curve of the brim.
(TIP: Use zipper or narrow presser foot to sew along the back edge of the brim. This will help get your stitch as close as possible to the edge of the brim.)
(TIP: Pull the back half of the fabric away from the needle as you sew. This will help keep the fabric tight on the brim.)
Step 16: Brim Stitching
-When the brim is sew into the sleeve.
-Stitch on top of the brim near the outside edge. This will secure the fabric even more.
-We are using a brim guide. This guide is build for a industrial sewing machine so we had to lock it down with tape. The guide helps with getting parallel stitches around the brim.
-Cut back access fabric about .5 inches from the brim.
(TIP: For perfect stitch lines around the brim you should consider using a guide or block. Something you can use to keep the brim moving in one motion around the curve.)
(TIP: Use the same color thread as fabric. This will help make the stitch lines look straighter and uniform.)
Step 17: Attaching Brim to Crown
-Mark the center of the brim. Match it with the center front seam.
-Place right sides together and sew from the center towards the outside edges. Repeat for the other half of brim.
(TIP: By starting in the center. This will help keep the brim positioned in the center of the crown as you sew.)
(TIP: Use a zipper/narrow presser foot to help get as close as possible to the edge of the brim.)
Step 18: Attaching the Sweatband
-We made a guide out of heavy stock paper. Make sure it fits the sweatband nice and snug. This will keep the sweatband from moving around while sewing.
-Tape the guide on the machine.
-Roll the edge of the crown over so the wrong side of the sweatband is touching the right side of the crown. Begin to sew.
-This process will attach the sweatband and also provide a top stitch.
-Leave about a inch of extra sweatband.
(TIP: Roll the size strip over. This is the perfect amount for attaching the sweatband. Use the size strip as a guide.)
(TIP: Use a zipper/narrow presser foot and start sewing around the bottom attaching the sweatband. Keep as close to the edge of the sweatband as possible.)
(TIP: You can also make your own sweatbands by folding fabric in half or you can buy premade professional ones at capsupplyco.com. We use the premade sweatband because they are cut on the bias. This helps them curve around your head with out bunching up.)
Step 19: Locking Off Sweatband
-Take the inch of extra sweatband and fold it over creating a finished edge.
-Top stitch just the sweatband alone.
-Top stitch the outside of the cap locking the back seam and sweatband into position.
(TIP: If you have woven tags. Place them over this seam. It will help cover the area where the sweatbands meets. This is what most fitted cap companies do.)
Step 20: Adding Cover Button
-Cut small circle of fabric that will fit around the top of the cover button.
-Fold the fabric circle around the top piece. Place the middle prong connector inside the top button. This will lock the fabric into place.
-Take the prongs. Place them into the press and press button into position. You will want this to be in the center of the cap where all the panels meet.
-If you do not have a press you can just push the prong end up into the center of the cap. Then hammer the top into position.
(TIP: Make sure the prong is in the center of the crown. Always start with the prong. Once you see the prongs poke trough the cap. Then you can add the top button on.)
(TIP: Use a rubber hammer mallet. Place the button side on a soft surface. Hit the prong side with the mallet. This will prevent the cover button from being smashed.)
Step 21: Adding Vents
-We are using eyelets for vents.
-Mark and cut one hole in each panel.
-Place the eyelets in the holes and use grommet press to secure the eyelets into position. If you do not have a press. Pliers work just as good and they are available at any fabric/hobby store.
(TIP: The pattern comes with hole positions. Remember to mark these when you are tracing the pattern.)
(TIP: For even spacing. Use a seam guide and measure from the cover button. This will help you keep the same spacing all the way around the cap.)
Step 22: Cap Is Complete!
Thank you so much for reading our instructable! If you get stuck be sure to peek at the video for help! We will be adding more instructables in the future!
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