How to Make an IlluMask Last Until the Bulbs Burn Out




Introduction: How to Make an IlluMask Last Until the Bulbs Burn Out

This will make it so that an illuMask can be reset and used until the hardware/bulbs actually fail. This will not make the manufacturer happy but it will save you a lot of hard earned cash and spare the environment the impact of a company that chooses to limit the use of a product that is made to last for many thousands of hours of use.

Step 1: Supplies and Tools

1 x 30 Use illuMask for Acne or Anti-Age

1 x SPDT Center Off (ON-OFF-ON) Switch

3 x short pieces of wire

Phillips head screw driver

Soldering Iron

Hot Glue Gun (Optional)

Heat Shrink Tubing (Optional)

Step 2: Open and Locate

Remove the 2 x Philips head screws on the back of the remote and remove the cover. Remove the batteries and the two screws for the battery bay.

You can carefully remove the battery terminals connected to the red wire from the bay and set the bay aside. This will make the rest of the process easier but is optional.

Locate the Test and Rest pads on the control board. They have been marked in purple (Test) and red (Reset) in the photo.

Step 3: Prep Switch, Wires and Housing

The switch will be wired to the control board as follows:

Center post to positive power feed on control board

Left position to Reset pad on control board

Right position to Test pad on control board

I have used a red wire for the power, black for the test and white for Reset.

Decide what colors you will use for each and solder them to the switch as detailed above.

I used heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered posts and to bind the wires together but this is optional.

Drill the switch mounting hole in the bottom of the front housing below the screw post. Make sure to leave enough room on each side of the hole for the switch body. My switch needed a 1/4 inch hole.
You may also need to trim the bottom fin on the screw post to make the switch fit depending on the form factor of the one being used.

Step 4: Making the Final Connecttions

Place a small dab of flux on the Test and Rest pads and place a small amount of solder on each. Do the same for the tips of the three wires being connect to the pads.

Solder the wires to the Test, Rest and Power pads as follows:

Center post to positive power feed on control board

Left position to Reset pad on control board

Right position to Test pad on control board

Install the switch in the previously drilled hole.

Untie the knot in the power cord and move it up to about 1/2 inch from the exposed portion. Place the rubber grommet back in the base of the remote and work the cord around the new switch.

Step 5: If You Are Using Hot Glue

Tidy up before you close the case.

Glue down the power cord to prevent it from being pulled out due to the knot being moved.

Manage and glue down the new wiring.

Step 6: Butten It Back Up and Final Notes.

Reinstall the battery terminals in the bay if you removed them.

Reinstall and screw down the battery bay.

Reinstall the batteries according to the graphic inside the bay.

Replace and screw down the back of the remote.

When counter reaches Zero (0) do the following

1. Flip switch to the left* until the counter resets to 30. Numbers will be flashing.

2. Flip switch all the way to the right and mask will power off.

3. Flip switch back to center and mask should power back on and show 30 uses left.

You can stop a session in the middle if needed by flipping the switch to the right and back to center. The counter will drop by one every time this is done but the device can be reset an unlimited number of times as far as I know.

To replace batteries, remove the two screws on the back of the remote. Replace the cover and screws once the batteries have been recharged (if you have replaced the batteries that came with the unit with rechargeable ones) and placed back in the device.

The mask will need to be replaced if one or more lights fail. The same switch and wires can be removed from the existing mask and installed into the new mask to make it resettable as well.

*All right/left directions assume the device remote is being held with the number display on the top and the switch on the bottom.

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    6 years ago

    That's so irritating when a manufacturer designd in forced obsolescence . Awesome hacking!!!


    6 years ago

    That's a neat hack :)