How to Plasti Dip Emblems With Glossifier

4,253

21

3

Introduction: How to Plasti Dip Emblems With Glossifier

About: Car enthusiast YouTuber creating helpful tutorial videos on both repairs and customizations. Be sure to hit that SUBSCRIBE or FOLLOW button!

Video tutorial on how to apply plasti dip to your emblems using Plasti Dip. I will be using Glossier as well to give the emblems a glossy look vs the satin or matte finish which is typically left by Plasti Dip. I’m using black in this case as I like the look with chrome, however you’re not just limited to that. Plasti Dip sells a variety of color, so you can pick whatever color fits the look you’re going for.

Amazon links for various products used in the video for both USA and Canada:

USA

Plasti Dip Glossifier: https://amzn.to/2YNoPEg

Plasti Dip Black: https://amzn.to/2YNoPEg

Isopropyl alcohol: https://amzn.to/2YNoPEg

Painter’s tape: https://amzn.to/2YNoPEg

Canada

Plasti Dip Glossifier: https://amzn.to/2YNoPEg

Plasti Dip black: https://amzn.to/2YNoPEg

Isopropyl alcohol: https://amzn.to/2YNoPEg

Painter’s tape: https://amzn.to/2YNoPEg

Supplies

  • Plasti Dip paint color
  • Plasti Dip Glossifier
  • isopropyl alcohol
  • clean lint free cloth
  • tape
  • paper
  • water
  • carwash soap
  • microfiber drying towel
  • compressed air
  • wood toothpick

Step 1: Previous Painted Truck

Normally I would prefer removing the emblems, but the driver’s door was painted on my truck and some did a poor job, instead of removing the emblem, they painted around it. If it was removed, a paint outline would be left behind. There is a wide variety of aftermarket emblems available on the market, I believe even Dodge makes a black version for their newer trucks. However this is a great method if you’re uncomfortable with debaging a vehicle and you just want a different look which doesn’t cost much. This method also isn’t permeant, if you change your mind, the coating can be peeling off.

Step 2: Washing the Vehicle

First is washing the vehicle to reduce the chance of contamination, dust or dirt which may blow off and fall in the wet coating. Then use compressed air to blow any water away from the emblems and follow up with a microfiber drying towel. I have filled up a bucket with hot water to place the cans in. This will help with flow, especially on those cooler days. They can only needs to soak for about 10 minutes before use.

Step 3: Preparing the Area

I will be demonstrating two different masking methods here. First is my preferred method which makes clean up much easier. Tape off the emblem, about an inch or 2.5cms away from the lettering in this case.

Here I’m using packaging paper, ripping a hole in the center and then applying tape around this hole. Try to keep it fairly centered and tape it on the edges so the wind doesn’t blow it around onto the emblem.

Finally is wiping down the emblem with a lint-free cloth and isopropyl alcohol. This will still be safe on the emblem, not causing any damage, but will remove any oils or waxes which may cause adhesion problems on the emblem. Take your time to get all the surfaces of the emblem.

Step 4: Applying the Plasti Dip Color

First is applying a light coat over the emblem, the base of the emblem, chrome in this situation should still be visible. Start with the harder to reach areas first such as the sides or edges. If you don’t get everything the first time, not a problem, you can get it on the other coats. Let this coat setup for 5 to 10 minutes, this will depend on your weather conditions.

Then apply a slightly heavier coat than previously. Again hit those hard areas first and do your final swipe over the face of the emblem. Then allow this coat to set up for the same period, again 5 to 10 minutes.

For the third coat, the same process as previously. Get those hard to reach areas first and finish up on the face last, this will give us the nicest finish just like using paint. One more coat will be after this, wait close to 10 minutes here.

Depending on your coverage, you may need a fourth coat. Get those hard to reach areas first, then finish up with the face. This time will be a slightly heavier coat so the surface flows out smooth with minimal texture, but don’t create any runs. If a run occurs, the coating can be peeled off and redone, just let it dry first.

If you don’t want a glossy finish, you can stop here, allow the coating to dry and skip future on in the video for the final clean up.

For a little more durability and shine, I’m applying a Glossifier. Again this was also warmed up in the bucket of hot water for about 10 minutes. After that last coating of Plasti Dip, wait 15 minutes for it to set up before applying the Glossifier. First will be a medium application, the same process as previously. Get those hard angles first, then finish up with the face.

After 10 minutes of setup, I did a second application. You may require more depending on the thickness of applications. First is the hard to reach edges and then a final application on the face for the cleanest finish. This should be a wet coat where it can flow, reducing the chance of orange peel.

Step 5: With and Without Glossifier

While that’s setting up, here is an example of what to expect with and without Glossier. From my experience with Plasti Dip, it does hold up fairly well on its own and doesn’t seem to fade like what one would expect from a product such as this. The Glossifier does enhance the gloss and this will depend on how many coats are applied.

Step 6: Preparing the Opposite Side

Moving over to the other side for another angle and using an alternative masking method. On this side I will be using wax.

The area was already washed and dried, then the tape is applied about 1 inch or 2.5cm from the emblem. A couple passed can be done here with the tape so it has a wider border.

Next is applying a wax, doesn’t matter with type, I’m just using what I have on hand. The tape will be your stop edge, do not go past this with the wax. Apply the wax as per the product’s instructions.

When done with the wax, clean up the emblem using isopropyl alcohol and a clean lint-free cloth. Allow it to evaporate for a few minutes and then apply the coating.

Step 7: Applying the Plasti Dip

Same as previous, the can has been warmed up. Apply a light coat, always getting to those hard to reach areas first.

Wait for 5 to 10 minutes, then apply the second coat. Regardless of what color of Plasti Dip is used, the same process applies.

Now is the third coat. Always mix the can before each use, in between coats, the can is left in the bucket of hot water to keep it warm.

And finally the fourth coat.

Wait 15 minutes, then apply the Glossifer, first is a lighter coat.

And finally is the second coat of Glossifier. Then allow the emblems to dry.

Let the coating dry for a few hours, even move the vehicle in the sun if you wish. To test if it’s somewhat hard, touch the area which you’ll be peeling off as it won’t matter if this area becomes damaged.

Step 8: Removing the Access Plasti Dip

Being that I was getting to the end of the day, I already removed the paper and left the rest of the coating for the next day. Remove the access coating within a 12hr period from the last application, otherwise, this can cause problems where it's hard to remove and may tear in connected areas.

Remove the tape, this should pull up the coating around the emblem. The coating should pull up easily, the thicker the coating, the easier it’ll pull up and the less chance there will be of ripping.

With the shape of the emblem, the adhesive tape in behind is recessed from the edge so it provides a perfect transition where the coating can separate.

For inside the lettering, use a wooden toothpick. Rub the coating gently until the paint below is exposed and then pick up the coating. If you’re careful, you will not cause any damage to the paint.

As for the opposite, the first is removing the tape. The thicker coating will come up with the tape, it should be fairly easy to remove just like before. As mentioned earlier, the coating will most likely be soft on the emblem, so be careful.

As for the past the tape, a soft cloth, microfiber cloth, or wash mitt can be used. Sometimes you can also rub off the overspray with your hand or if you’re having a little bit of trouble, a wax and grease remover can also be used.

Step 9: Removing the Plasti Dip

As for peeling off the coating if a mistake is made or you change your mind. Simply pick at the corner of the coating, roll up the edge with your finger, then pull the coating off.

Once the coating has been removed, the emblem looks like just before you started.

Step 10: All Done!

Here is a view of the emblem when done. The coating should cure in about 24hrs, maybe slightly longer depending on your climate and thickness of coatings. Cooler temperatures and thicker coatings will slow down the cure time. This is a great way of adding a little custom touch that doesn’t cost much and can be easily removed if you change your mind. It doesn’t have a smooth touch finish like paint, it will have somewhat of a rubberized feel when done.

Let me know what you think about my tutorial by dropping a comment below. Stay up to date with my latest tutorials, don't forget to FOLLOW my profile and be sure to check out my YOUTUBE page as well for all your DIY needs. Also be sure to follow my other social media pages such as Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, and Twitter.

Plastic Contest

Participated in the
Plastic Contest

Be the First to Share

    Recommendations

    • Hide It Challenge

      Hide It Challenge
    • 3D Printed Student Design Challenge

      3D Printed Student Design Challenge
    • Reclaimed Materials Contest

      Reclaimed Materials Contest

    3 Comments

    0
    Little Lightning Bug
    Little Lightning Bug

    10 months ago

    Thanks for the tutorial on the PlastiDip; have thought about using it before.

    0
    4DIYers
    4DIYers

    Reply 1 year ago

    Thank you so much!