How to Plasti-Dip Your Car
Intro: How to Plasti-Dip Your Car
We've owned our '68 for over a decade and have watched its paint fade, crack and chip.
Some areas were down to the metal and we wanted to do something about it before it got any worse.
We discovered Plasti-Dip*. Plasti-Dip is resistant to sun fading, winter ice, cold, and salt. It is also a durable yet removable substance that will peel off when we decide to pay for a real paint job.
*We chose plasti-dip because: IT'S NOT PERMANENT. I haven't painted a car before and didn't want to test out doing a "real paint job" on our CLASSIC. I'm satisfied with the outcome (however temporary it may be) it's serving its purpose well: protecting the car while we decide if we will go with silver in the future
STEP 1: PRO CAR KIT
The kit comes with the DYC DipSprayer™ System, 4 Gallons of Rubber Dip Spray,tape, DipWasher®, Decals, mixing stick, Dip Guard, Paint Stirrer and Microfiber Towels.
We used Plasti-dip color: Aluminum for the base and Silver Metalizer for the top coat.
Plasti-dip is also available in a spray can.
STEP 2: SURFACE PREP
Using an electric orbital sander we sanded the rough spots then covered them with a spray on auto primer that filled in small imperfections.
We also removed the emblems, lights and reflectors from the body of the car.
STEP 3: TAPE OR NOT?
Using painters tape and newspapers, cover windows and areas that you do not want to get plasti-dip on.
We covered the wheels with 40 gallon sized trash bags.
STEP 4: WASH IT FIRST!
Plasti-dip is an overlay that will form a separate layer on top of any surface- including dust and dirt... so get the surface REALLY CLEAN.
After cleaning the area dry it with a cloth.
STEP 5: PERFECT PAINTING PLACE?
STEP 6: SPRAY ON THE PLASTI-DIP
The first layer is your bonding layer- It is very important that this is a light dusting (50 -60% transparency). This will allow the rest of the layers to bond and stick to the paint. Spray in a clean sweeping motion, making sure to hold the sprayer 6–8 inches away from the area. Allow plasti dip to dry 15-30 minutes between each layer.
We painted six layers of Aluminum plasti-dip and three layers of Silver Metalizer.
STEP 7: REMOVE THE TAPE
STEP 8: CURE IT!
STEP 9: FINISHING TOUCHES
After it cured we put the emblems, etc. back on, replaced our sill-plates, hub caps, antenna and seat covers and added the C-Stripe decal.
This is a big job. Take your time and do it well. It took three of us working on it every open opportunity seven weeks to complete.
45 Comments
jam1701 7 years ago
troberts8 8 years ago
shambuda2000 8 years ago
Diane2create 8 years ago
I think alot of people have missed what troberts8 said why he choose to Plastic-dip his car and if you have a classic or any car for that matter, when you do decided to paint your car, you want the color to be something you'll love for the life of your car. We have a 69 fastback VW that seriously needs a paint job, ...What a great idea! We have put off doing a real paint job for all the same reasons that you used the plastic dip. Our biggest reason is we can't decided what color scheme to choose. We really want to do something different but then your stuck with it. This just seems like a great way to be able to try some thing maybe a little outrageous that you wouldn't if you know that you'll be stuck with it if if comes out crappy.
We also have a 84 Eagle bus that my husband rebuilt/converted from the ground up. We also plan to do our on paint scheme on that ,too. We have done what a lot of you have suggested regarding paint equipment from Harbour Freight, we haven't used the spray gun yet, so I can't tell you now good/ bad it is. What we have done so far to protect the steel until we get to a place to do a full paint job is we used " Rust Oleum" by the gallon that we rollered on (the bus is 40' long and 13' high) in black and that has worked fantastic so far and you really can't tell that it's just a primer coat. We never imagined that the rust-oleum would come out so well and they have a ton of colors ( I sound like a commercial...not my intention) The Plastic-dip might be a great way to do the graphics?
Thanks so much for your project, it looks great and gave us some new options.
birdsloper 8 years ago
darus67 8 years ago
I have to admit, I came here expecting to be horrified.
When I saw Plasti-Dip I was thinking of the thick, yellow, blobby stuff used on tool handles. I wasn't aware it came in a medium capable of being sprayed on.
Your end result looks all right.
echristensson 8 years ago
Should blackout ur tag in future pics...
DIY Micah 8 years ago
jnereb64 8 years ago
great job! i can see where plasti-dip would be a good medium for some one with little or no experience with automotive finishes. Much more forgiving and easier to fix if you mess up. And yes I have paint and body experience, and have owned 92 different cars and trucks over the last 35 years, mostly classics. Sometimes you just need to cover it until you can do what you want with it.
troberts8 8 years ago
Thank you for commenting! I have to admit it isn't flawless, but I'm still pleased with the outcome. I think it will be even more awesome (in the future) when we have it done with automotive paint. Plasti-Dip is a neat product - but it is not smooth or mega shiny like the real thing.
newb 8 years ago
One thing to add is when you wash your car it helps to clay it to get any wax off of it, the dip doesn't like to hold to anything with wax on it. Also it takes about 24 hours to fully cure. The other great use for it is a quick cheap substitute for vinyl, I dipped an American flag on my trunk while on my lunch break right before the 4th of July and its held up no problem for over a month.
newb 8 years ago
And the ragged edges are what happen when you don't have any real tape so you have to try to use scotch tape, not the best idea but it worked well enough lol.
whiteboardwarriors2 8 years ago
Your car, your way. I say "Right On!". You may love it or hate it in a couple of years but you will never have to wonder what would've happened if... My son and I restored a 1972 Land Cruiser and the guy that did the sand blasting had restored a Jeep and he Rhinolined it inside and out. Said that he could paint but wasn't up to the high level body work to make it perfect. How true that was for us.
1961lincoln 8 years ago
Great job! I did not know they had a full car kit. To all the people who don't get it. I built the bumper on my land rover in 08 and covered it with plasti dip. When I wanted to weld more tabs on it I simply pealed it off welded and re-sprayed it. If I scratch it up off road I re-spray it, dirty: respray it. It cost $6. for a can at home depot and covered the bumper. I have since done the same to my 2014 ram truck. $18. to do the front bumper, grill and hood. When I remove it years from now I will still have new factory paint underneath. Thanks for the info.
troberts8 8 years ago
Thank you! I am pretty happy with the results so far! In my experience the product worked really good- even fills in imperfections. It's only been on the car a few months, but holding together really good so far. We get a lot of (good) comments when we drive it.
throwedoff 8 years ago
Most major automotive finish companies have value brands of products that are anywhere from 25% to 70% cheaper than their name brand. However, these value brands provide the same quality and value as their high priced name brands. Also, many community colleges offer continuing education classes in automobile refinishing that allow you to work on your on project vehicle. There is no better way to learn to spray automotive paint than to spray a few gallons of primer and sealer. With primer you also have the benefit of being able to easily remove an mistakes. Harbor Freight HVLP guns are extremely cheap and provide unbelievable spray quality for the money. I have done two different vehicles using a $29 Harbor Freight gun with no problems or lack of finish quality! However, if I were painting for a living I would certainly using a professional gun. The quality of the paint job is 75% prep work. The remainder is getting good even coats of paint and finishing (color sanding and buffing).
BeanieandCecilC 8 years ago
I'd have to agree with you, throwedoff. I have seen plasti-dip cars and they get scuffed and scratched easily. If you are going to go through all the trouble of the prep work, which is most of the work, you might as well paint with real paint. I would think it would take a lot of work to thoroughly remove all the plasti-dip to do a real paint job anyway, getting it out of all those small spaces. You can get a spray gun for 10 bucks on sale at Harbor Freight which, I've been told, does a really good job.
troberts8 8 years ago
That would be an incredible saving.... especially if it doesn't skimp on quality. However I'm positive we won't be taking on the job ourselves when we go back to automotive paint.
Nexus of Crisis 8 years ago
I have a '67 VW bug that I have been planning on dipping until I can afford to do a full on body-off restore. Unfortunately, after a little research I found out that as a resident of the Peoples Republic of California you cannot get PlastiDip (or any other products like it) in bulk. I would have to buy the equivalent of 3 gallons worth of spray cans. Very expensive to do it this way and SO MUCH harder to get even coverage.
Also... Depending on how many coats of dip you put on your car, it may not be that easy to peel it off of primer. I hear it sticks pretty good to matte finishes, but the thicker it is, the easier it comes off. I've seen videos of people hitting it with 2000 psi pressure washers and not even lifting the edges.
troberts8 8 years ago