How to Remove the Battery From a Denon Envaya Mini Bluetooth Speaker (DSB-100)



Introduction: How to Remove the Battery From a Denon Envaya Mini Bluetooth Speaker (DSB-100)

Considering the speaker is a highly-engineered and designed product with great sound quality, the factory battery in the Denon Envaya Mini is of poor quality and after owning it for a while, the battery's charge doesn't last very long anymore.

Being a network engineer who tinkers, and who has liked to take things apart since he was kid, I decided to tear down this speaker to see if I could replace the battery (Spoiler Alert: I couldn't because I could not find an exact replacement online with the same wiring and plug.)

Anyway, here are the tools I used to perform the steps outlined in this guide.

Total screws removed:

  • 4 x Torx T5
  • 12 x Phillips #1
  • 10 x Phillips #00

Step 1: Remove Rubber Feet and Torx Screws

Using a plastic prier, carefully pry off both rubber feet that are held on with 3 tiny strips of adhesive tape.

Next, using Torx T5 screwdriver (I recommend Wiha), remove the two Torx T5 screws located under each foot (4 total).

Step 2: Remove Charger End Cap and Ribbon Cable

Remove the end cap that contains the Battery Status, micro USB connector, and 3.5mm audio ports by pulling it straight off.

Gently slide the ribbon cable out from the connector.

Step 3: Slide Metal Screen Off the End

Step 4: Remove the Rubber O-Ring

Step 5: Using a Flat Plastic Implement, Gently Pry Fabric Off Adhesive Tape

Go all the way around.

Step 6: Gently Remove the Fabric Along the Length of the Speaker

It's melted/welded on, so take your time.

You only need to remove one edge.

Step 7: With the Fabric Removed, Pry Off the Other End Cap and O-Ring

It's clipped on tight, so you may need to rock it a bit as you pry it off.

Step 8: Peel Back Tape Over Subwoofer Grill and Remove 4 Phillips Screws

Use a Phillips #1 screwdriver.

Step 9: Set Aside Grill and Subwoofer to Expose Main Circuit Board

Step 10: Remove 8 Phillips Screws That Holds the Main Body Together

Use Phillips #1 screwdriver.

There are four on each end.

Step 11: Using a Razor Blade, Slice the Thin Adhesive Tape Crossing the Seams

Do this on both sides and both ends (4 cuts total).

Step 12: Separate the Main Body Using a Plastic Pry Bar

Take your time in prying them apart. There are 3 clips total, as shown.

Step 13: Here Is the Separated Body

Step 14: Remove 4 Screws Holding the Main Circuit Board to the Body

Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver.

Step 15: On the Power/volume End, Slide the Cable Out of Plastic Channel

It's taped down, so use the right tool to remove it such as a small flathead screwdriver.

Step 16: On the Audio Jack End, Remove Two Screws From the Back

Step 17: On the Same End, Remove Two More Screws

Step 18: Gently Pry Off the Adhesive Tape and Remove Both Mini Circuit Boards

Pay special attention to not disconnect the tiny connector shown in the 4th photo.

Step 19: On the Other End, Remove the Two Phillips Screws

Step 20: The Main Circuit Board and Speakers Can Now Detached From the Plastic Body

Again, take your time in gently and slowly removing the parts from the body.

A lot of it is taped down, so pry them apart as needed.

Step 21: Here We See the First Glimpse of the Battery

Step 22: The Battery Is Taped Into the Body. Gently Pry It Out and Press the Tab to Remove It From the Circuit Board

Step 23: The Unit Is Now Disassembled. Here Are Photos of the Circuit Board

Note: The main circuit board is in 3 pieces -- two of which are soldered together in a 90-degree angle.

Take extra care as to not break those joints!

Assembly is the reversal of this process. To reassemble the fabric, I used clear scotch tape to hold the two ends together lengthwise. It was then covered by the main perforated metal screen once reassembled.

I could not find a replacement battery online. If you find one, please let me know. I ended up putting the entire thing back together as-is with the factory battery.

1 Person Made This Project!


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Tip 8 months ago on Step 23

Remove the blue plastic shrink wrap and unsolder the charger PCB from the Battery. Observe polarity for re-soldering. Re-solder a new 18650 battery. I used this one . Mine had a different charger PCB so I had to cut open the shrink wrap and remove this two wire PCB and solder back the original 4 wire PCB. See pictures. The second to last photo with the black wire shows the PCB removed from the battery I bought. The last pic shows the finished product. I used Tape instead of shrink wrap.


Reply 8 months ago

Nice. Thanks for the link. I have been looking at this battery since it's allegedly "Li-Po" (Lithium Polymer) and not Litium Ion.
So I'm hoping that it lasts longer overall. Will give it a try some time in the near future and update my guide accordingly.


1 year ago

In regards to battery - you can replace it with normal 18650 - this is just bms with 1 pin for temp, 2 pins for gnd, and next 2 with power. I replaced mine with 3000mAh Samsung cell.


Reply 1 year ago

Hi Dawid, where did you find this kind of battery? Gotta change it on my device as well...


Reply 1 year ago

I did trnasplant old BMS (this round pcb on top on battery) to new cell ICR18650-30Q - however you need to know what you are doing - do not short cell by accident or solder to it - it my start on fire or burn you badly...


1 year ago

Has anyone sourced the battery with 5 pin connector? Found one with 3 pin connector ,black,red and white wire..Will This work?


1 year ago on Step 23

Is the battery not just a 18650. With a harness then soldered on to it ?


1 year ago

Nice teardown. Very thorough.